Rear End Swap (UPDATE)

[VileZambonie]

Cool!

[DnStClr]

Geez Lorne. More! More!! 

[JJSZABO]

IMPRESSIVE

WOW

What can I say?   GREAT JOB Lorne

[SUX2BU99]

Awesome awesome! Really dig those "cal trac" bars. So those work by preventing spring wrap, right? Yet they still allow regular movement of the spring and axle?

[Captkaos]

Yes, that is what they do, the axle won't try to wrap since they are limited by the bar.

[DnStClr]

I forgot to ask, how do you change out the gear oil in the diff case? Is there a plug on the front side?

[HAULIN IT]

Don, Yes the cast iron (front) case has a fill plug about a 1/3 of the way up. You just fill until it starts to come out. As for the drain, originally you loosen the nuts & gently pry out on the bottom & let it go in a pan, just like you would a rearend cover. On most of the housings I build, I put a drain plug in the bottom so it's much neater to drain & virtuly all of it comes out, not leaving it level with the bolt flange like the original set-up. In the photo the center part of the housing is upside down. Lorne

[MohterTrucker]

Really nice work. Impressive fab skills. Nice shop, too.
How did flipping the rear hangers/shackles affect the height?
Also, do you have any pics of the rear brake setup?

[HAULIN IT]

Thank You! I searched through my Photobucket, I don't have any pic's of the brakes, Sorry. They are basically unmodified '96 Crown Vic stuff.
 As for flipping the rear hangers...it would have to make the truck sit a little higher than a regular flip. If you look where the rear eye is compared to the frame & then look at a stock hanger/shackle, mine is lower (thus raising the truck) however the rear end being half way up the spring, it wouldn't be all that much at the wheelwell (1 1/2" or so I'm guessing). A lowering block of some sort could be used if needed. Here's a couple pictures to get an idea how it sits, however I have done an angled (front to rear) 2" body drop so you have to concider this when comparing ride height to other trucks. Lorne