Questions on using front spring blocks - spacers - helper springs

[74k20]

Please help clear up some info for me on using FRONT "blocks", "spacers", or "add-a-leaf".

Front "blocks" are a NO-NO, I've read this fact over and over.  I've even seen several pictures of 1.5" or above blocks, with everyone saying REMOVE for safety sake.

So here are some questions I'm pondering on:

#1)  What is considered a "block"?  As in how thick, and is it retained with the spring pack bolt?

#2)  Reference question.  What retains and how thick are "add-a-leaf/helper leaf/overload springs?  This method adds a stiffer spring/leaf to the bottom pack, with is a mild lift, by adding a distance between springs and axle?  This reference info leads to the main question next.

#3)  So what about a "spacer", as in less then 1" thick.  AND retained with a new longer spring pack center bolt. Basically adding a short extra spring to the bottom, yet still locked using the center bolt.  This spacer would need to be long enough to NOT rotate, say 6-8" length.

I'm one of those crazy detailed engineering type, so details and explanation would be great.

[beastie_3]

What are you trying to do?

[Da67goatman]

A block is less than 6 in long along the spring pack, add a leaf are some where around 20" long so they don't allow rotation of the axle, but they are at most 1" thick.  I suppose you can use blocks up front if you use traction bars to keep the axle from rotating.

[74k20]

Adding a 1/2" to 3/4" spacer could help out on any tire rub issues.  Especially for someone not wanting to cut the fenders, leave on fender chrome ring, already went with new minimal lift, and already has desired tire/wheel combo.  Not that I know of anyone like that.

I personally know someone who added a 1/2" plate (with new bolt), and wheeled the heck out if it with no problem and his daily driver. 

NO - NEVER - NODA over 1".

 

[Da67goatman]

Consider that you'll rub at full flex or while making sharp fast corners and the suspension travels some 10" will another 1/2" make a difference, your tires will expand more than that at high speeds.  Like I said blocks and bars or leafs.

P.S. blocks are not bolted to the spring pack, the u-bolt hold them to the axle.

[74k20]

I was going to wait for some more response, but I'll kick this up a notch as I'm making sure all will be safe.

Here is what I've done.  Cut down the bottom .75" think original rear spring (since it already had a center hole), to a length of 6".  Wish I would have done about 8" length now, but thought the stabilizer shock was going to hit (it would have been fine).  Added new longer center bolts and all is tight and secure.  Bottom spring/spacer can not rotate around due to the u-bolts.  I also don't see how the extra .75" could affect axle wrap, but maybe I'm just not understanding something (hence the questions).

YEP this added .75" has already helped with rubbing.  There is still probably a chance of catching a corner, but so far ok.  It was more common to hit the fender corners then I expected and hoped with my truck combo.  My buddy added a .500" spacer in the past to his truck, and it helped him out also.

I finished up adding these this morning, and so far it drives just fine.  I'll do a freeway run tomorrow.

[bake74]

     Back when they started putting blocks in front, they had no center bolt to secure them, then they added a center bolt which made them safer, but it is still not a great idea to use blocks in front.  What you did should be fine, I do not see a problem with your front axle ever "wrapping" and your spring pack looks thick enough.  I would say you should be fine, but you should test it out on the road under different conditions just to be safe.

[74k20]

Just got back from running some rough logging roads.  Seems fine to drive, as I notice no driving difference.  HOWEVER, never touched a fender corner this time, and I did do some off camber turns.  Last weekend running some of these same roads, I actually caught the lip of the fender and buckled it inward a tad.  I didn't mind ever-so-slightly touching, but the slight buckle bugged me and hence my quick attempt to find a better solution.

I'm going to wait a week or so before debating on adding the same type of spacer in the rear to level it back out.

I'm still open to changing if someone can explain a safety problem that I'm not yet aware of.

Thanks,

MJ

[Irish_Alley]

like its been said. the blocks can pop out if they were welded solid to the perch then they wont pop out. (not saying to put blocks up front but what you did is fine) now i bought new springs from rough country and a spring bolt was broke i bought new ones from a spring shop only to have one break after a week of use so i bought a new regular bolt from a hardware store rounded off the head and used that worked fine.