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May 24, 2020, 09:24:41 AM by Chuck Step-a-side | Views: 182 | Comments: 7

During my 6 years ownership of this Frankenstein '84 Stepside, there were so many thing wrong with this truck from the drilled out motor mounts pivot holes to the water pump turning in the wrong direction that it over-heated the engine and caused the rings to prematurely wore out. I have purchased the truck with the engine converted to a serpentine belt set up by use of a 90's S10 serpentine bracket assembly and they used a wrong water pump pulley to were the belt was riding half ways off the pulley. Now that I have replace the worn out engine with a used low mileage crate motor 350 and all the wrongs corrected. The motor now idle smoothly with no hesitation at WOT on a open road. I feel the truck lacks low end power as the engine just gradually get to the top speed. I don't know if the kick-down is working on the rebuilt transmission and would it make a big difference if the it did. I know the kick down cable is set to pull during WOT. The engine is a crate 350 with rebuilt TH350 transmission and a Edelbrock 1406 carb and Edelbrock Performance manifold, mechanical fuel pump, dual exhaust and 10 bolt rear end. The Edelbrock secondary has been double checked and open all the way and my total timming is set at 34 degrees.  Am I wrong to think I should be able to spin the rear tires when I floor the pedal? I want to know what would be the next step to increase my low end power? Should I work on the carb. rod and jet tuning or do I need to do major upgrades on the cam and rear end? Thanks, Chuck
May 24, 2020, 04:54:15 AM by Postess89 | Views: 33 | Comments: 2

Hey guys. I'm having some trouble finding the information online so I'm hoping someone here can impart some knowledge. I have a 76 k10 with a 5.7L 350. When I had the engine rebuilt a few years ago the temperature gauge in the cluster didn't work so I had a cheapo aftermarket from autozone put in. The kind that isn't meant to go into the original cluster but rather mounted above or below the dash. Well since then I've replaced the broken gauge in the cluster but I can't figure out how to wire a temperature sensor to it. I understand where the sensor screws into the engine, but where does the wire go to? I'm a novice when it comes this so I appreciate any and all help. 
May 23, 2020, 05:27:05 PM by bake315
Views: 34 | Comments: 1

Hey folks,

For those of you whove installed Dakota Digital gauge clusters in your trucks, I was wondering:  Where did you end up mounting your control module?  Also, for those of you who purchased the optional GPS-50-2 unit, Id be interested to know where you ended up installing that as well.

Pictures would be worth 1000 words.  Many thanks in advance!

May 23, 2020, 11:59:14 AM by ChrisD | Views: 86 | Comments: 5


I've just looked for a new water pump, and i've seen, that there seems some differences between the engines in 75 through 78.
My problem is, that the engine doesn't seems to be the original one.
My truck is a 78 C10 with 250 i6 engine and it has a saginaw 3 speed transmission.
The casting number is 473483 and i found an information, that it's an 250 CID engine block from 75-76.
For serial i've found nothing yet, but i read, that it's important to buy the right parts. It's F 0714 IAC. The site stillruns tells me, that in the last 3 characters i the exact year and horsepower of the engine. Don't know if thats right, but essential to buy the right water pump, because giving it back for me it's not wothwhile, i would pay more for the shipping, than the parts are worth.

can anyone help me, to translate the FIN?

May 22, 2020, 12:12:45 PM by ChrisD | Views: 230 | Comments: 8


at the moment i'm a bit frustrated. I told in another thread, that the manual transmission was oiling everywhere, so i released it put new seals and so on init and put it back in place. I meant, that was the place where all the oil came from.

i was sooo wrong!

today, the engine runs the first time after, for more than 2-3 minutes and i can say, the oil isn't runing, but near by.
so i haft to change the two parts of the crankshaft main seal.
I already looked into the service manual, and i'm happy that i dont have to release the crankshaft.

But now i have some questions
1. Must i release the transmission again, or can i do this without that?
2. I read, that i have to release the oil pan and oil pump. Is that possible with engine in place and the car not lifted?
3. Can I change the seal while lying under the car (i've no other way)

yesterday, i tried to change the intake manifold of the BMW, and this was also not successfull, because i realized that i need two little new seals, both together not more than 5$.....

sometime when it's raining, it rains heavy (it's a german saying, don't know what you say if more than one goes wrong)

frustrated regards

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* Recent Posts

Re: Stepside with no low end power by VileZambonie
[Today at 07:11:48 AM]

Re: Stepside with no low end power by VileZambonie
[Today at 07:08:15 AM]

Re: 81 K10 Build by VileZambonie
[Today at 06:53:49 AM]

Re: Temperature sending unit by bd
[Today at 12:52:44 AM]

Re: 78er 250 inline 6 changing crankshaft main seal by ChrisD
[May 24, 2020, 11:20:49 PM]

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