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December 09, 2016, 09:22:56 PM by Jspeed1987 | Views: 22 | Comments: 1

Recently pulled my motor and transmission to do a few upgrades. since the motor out I want to install a cam that will work with the new parts. something with good torque curve and mileage. I talk to comp cams today they suggested manufacturers part # 12-242-2 Grind number CS XE268H. Any suggestions will be much appreciated

1979 Chevy C-10 SWB
WEIGHT 4500lbs
Heads 3947041 heads ported, stainless steal valves, screw in studs
High rise duel plane intake
Q-Jet 750
HEI Ignition
Compression ratio 9.1
Stock Converter
Axel gears 3.08
December 09, 2016, 06:19:07 PM by Jon79K15
Views: 29 | Comments: 3


1987 Suburban V20 350/TH400/NP208

I'm about 99% sure the issue with my TH400 is the front pump.

Does anyone know, can anything else become damaged from the pump not operating correctly for say a week or so of driving?

Basically, it was shifting funny for about a week, then it started making a loud whining noise when cold (it would clear up after a few minutes), then eventually it couldn't get to third gear while under load, was slipping etc. for about 15 minutes until I was home. It could still move it self when I parked it in the garage.

I'm trying to figure out if I can swap in a new pump and it'll be all good, or if I'll get it back in the truck and there'll be other damaged components as a result of the pump failure.

December 09, 2016, 12:46:07 PM by Jstock | Views: 43 | Comments: 3

Working on 85 c10. Steering box is pouring fluid.  I have 2 option take apart and rebuild or just replace.

 My question for you guys is:
Has anyone out there rebuilt one?
Difficulty level dealing with ball bearings?
Is it worth the effort or should I spring the extra money and replace?

December 09, 2016, 11:29:55 AM by Artezio | Views: 38 | Comments: 2

So I bought an 83 k20 (which I'm not sure is 3/4 ton or 1 ton cause it's a dually) and the truck runs great it has its minor electrical issues though which is expected because of its age and the fuel gauge moves around when you hit a bump or simply because of the vibration of the Diesel engine. It only bounces within a 1/8 tank mark worth of movement, it acts like it's loose so I never know the true fuel level, however it does move as if its reading the level properly and goes to full when I fill 'er up and decreases normally as expected just that bouncing around is all that's wrong with it, also the oil pressure gauge when driving will occasionally read high but a good slap on the dash makes it read normal again but I do not wish to have to slap the dash. Third when using the brights for the headlights hitting bumps will cause them to flicker between normal and brights even on the slightest bump because it's so stiff. Now I bought this truck as my hauler for camping and with the intention of slowly restoring her. And lastly it has an aftermarket cruise control but doesn't work so I don't even know where to begin on that but it's not that important really, any thoughts? Thanks in advance!
December 08, 2016, 09:01:44 PM by WV TRAVIS | Views: 27 | Comments: 1

i have a 1986 silverado all factory 305 carb no tbi 700r with i think 208 transfer (aluminum) i have a oppertunity to put a 92 tbi 5 speed (nv4500} i have the whole truck for wiring its a brand new crate 350 . just wondered what am i in for on swap? thanks
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* Recent Posts

Re: Best alternators: by VileZambonie
[Today at 08:04:45 AM]

Re: TH400 Front Pump Replacement by VileZambonie
[Today at 07:34:07 AM]

Re: Steering box by VileZambonie
[Today at 07:31:23 AM]

Re: Engine swap diary by Stewart G Griffin
[Today at 07:07:00 AM]

Re: Camshaft decision by FlatBlack77
[Today at 07:04:34 AM]

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