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Today at 12:47:22 PM by English | Views: 17 | Comments: 0

Recently had a flat battery on the truck. Took it out to charge it up on the trickle charger, and when I topped up with de-ionized water the battery took A WHOLE LITRE to top up.

Once the battery had charged I drove to my local garage for them to put their battery tester on it. Battery tested out okay. They suggested that if the alternator was playing up it might have boiled the battery. Sounds reasonable. I hadn't worried about my voltage gauge reading on the high side (but not in the red) as 1) I doubt it was accurate when it was new, and 2) it was new 37 years ago.

I want to change the regulator, but I see that the regulator is internal on this vehicle. I've only changed external regulators before. The Chilton manual doesn't say how to change an internal regulator. Has anyone here done one? Is it easy to take apart? Do I need heat paste or anything like that?
Today at 10:23:17 AM by mcintyrederek
Views: 57 | Comments: 5

Vehicle = 1986 C10 Silverado, with power steering, and originally had a 4.3 V6 in it.. TH400 trans. 

Engine now = 350 but I'm sure that won't make a difference in my question.

I currently have power steering but the pump, hoses and "gearbox" assembly are all starting to leak.  Instead of rebuilding, I have thought about ditching the power steering altogether and go with regular old manual steering.

I can get my hands on some manual steering gearboxes fairly easy.  Does anyone see any problem with this, and will the manual gearbox use the same bolt pattern as the hydraulic box?  Will it pretty much be a direct swap?  Thanks..

February 12, 2016, 09:51:28 PM by mcintyrederek
Views: 41 | Comments: 1

1986 C10 LWB with mildly built 350, and a healthy TH400.

The glove box says the rear end is a 2.73..  and going by the article posted on this site and testing it for myself, it definitely is a 2.73.

I do a lot of towing, but nothing heavy.  The drivetrain is plenty strong but the 2.73 is killing my take-offs and overall performance.  I'm not racing or showing off..  I'm pulling a trailer and I need a little better ratio.  I don't particularly care about fuel economy because it's a business expense..

What's your opinion on an overall street gear and what will direct fit into my housing?  It's a 10 bolt open carrier.  I think I did a search earlier with the bolt patterns and determined it's an 8.5" ring.  Does this sound correct?

Would a 3.42 or 3.55 be a good overall ratio?  Which one of those is correct for the year 1986?  I don't think I want to go more than 3.55.  I don't want to go extremely ridiculous or I'll have to put an O/D transmission in.

I have had the rear end apart when changing wheel bearings.  I'm familiar with how to take apart and put back together but I've never had the pinion out.  I have replaced the oil seal on the pinion.  I've had the yoke off but that's about it.  How does the pinion come out of the bearing, and how does the bearing come out of the case?  Do I need a press or special tools to do this or will a large vice and a shop press do?  I need to know if I'm capable of doing this myself before I order a pinion and ring. 

Rear end is in the photo.

Opinions please.  Thanks.
February 12, 2016, 09:44:21 PM by rumblebox | Views: 55 | Comments: 2

I'm thinking about taking the bed off and cutting the wheelbase down to make it a trail rig.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

February 12, 2016, 12:37:51 PM by JasonD45
Views: 30 | Comments: 0

So, I work for a steel manufacturer, and was given the opportunity to design a new bumper. Does anyone know where I can look to find specs on the stock bumpers? I can figure out certain things easily, but I may struggle figuring out the angles I need to use at the bolt connections. Any input is appreciated. My truck is an '87 v20 Silverado. Thanks all!
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