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Today at 01:04:52 AM by Jon87V20
Views: 43 | Comments: 2

This weekend, I was replacing my front rotors/hubs, calipers, and pads on my '87 Suburban V20 with the JB7 brake system (verified with the glovebox service sticker).

I noticed that my old pads had a "lip" of brake pad material along the top edge of the pads where it hadn't been making contact with the rotor. Likewise, the rotor had a raised stripe around inner circle where the pad wasn't touching. I know I have the correct calipers, but it looks like I was running the wrong pads before.

I took them back to Autozone (I won't be going in that place anymore for a lot of reasons) and swapped the "MKD52S" pads out for the "MKD153" pads. Unfortunately, those pads don't cover the entire surface area of the rotors either, and the holes in the outer pads are too big for the caliper pins.

I'm not sure what to do here. Can anyone help me out with a part number I can use for Oreilly's, Napa, or even Chevrolet? I'm going to take these pads back again and try someplace else. Ordering some online isn't really an option right now because this is my commuter several days a week and I need to get it roadworthy again immediately.

July 15, 2018, 11:45:21 PM by EntryLevelEmployment
Views: 50 | Comments: 3

Hey guys!

I bought this truck earlier this month, from my uncle. I asked him if he would be willing to sell it to me and he did for the price of $100! He didn't use it anymore, so had no use for it. It had sat for 3+ years beforehand so he gave it to me for cheap! ;D I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I am excited to learn! The only other car I've owned is a red 2003 VW golf gl. A fun car, but frustrating when it comes to maintenance. I am constantly sending it into the shop because I don't have the time or the expertise to deal with it's problems. But anywho, I'm stoked for this truck!

It'll be a daily winter car for me and my wife (we live in Montana) so most of the work I do to it in the coming months will be pertinent to getting it ready for that. Presently the things on the list are quite numerous: the heater core is bypassed cause it leaks, the blinkers don't work (but the hazards do :o), the temp sensor is fried, the fuel gauge is bouncy, one tank needs flushed, the floor has a hole, the brakes are soft, the tires are dry-rotted, it leaks coolant, oil, and power steering, and it burns oil on cold start. Oh, and the key doesn't match the doors. But hey, it runs and drives!

So far I've done the following:
-seat (rescued from a junkyard Sierra Grande)
-cleaned it

All pretty simple stuff. In the end, I'd like to squeeze a little power out of the dog. I'll probably build it up next summer, if the oil leak isn't terminal. Maybe. (meaning if the wife allows it)

Thanks guys.
July 15, 2018, 10:05:05 AM by RVimana | Views: 49 | Comments: 3

Good Morning!
This is on a 1987 Chevy P30 chassis with a 7.4L 454 that sits underneath a Class A motor home (24'). It was a daily driver for a few months (long story), but didn't miss a beat.

However, I did notice and engine oil cooler leak within the fins. I ordered the new B&M oil cooler and have it in hand.

A friend was over initially helping with the smog pump ( and attempted to remove the bottom fittings. Obviously he is much stronger than me, and the fittings on both sides were difficult. Right side should be able to be removed, but the left side (drivers side) is the one that is leaking - now even more as the integrity of the pipe is questionable. The tube/pipe is twisting with the rotation of the fitting itself (see pics)

My questions are:

1) Can these two aluminum inlet and outflow tubes be replaced with rubber hoses and clamps? Is there a fitting that would go to from the inlet/outflow of the oil cooler that would allow me to do this?

2) Would there be any trouble bypassing this so that I can drive it to someone who knows what the heck they're doing?

Suggestions and opinions are welcome. This is more motor work than I've been involved with for over 30 years.

Thanks in advance,
Erich - RVimana
July 15, 2018, 12:58:05 AM by Joejoefo5fo | Views: 43 | Comments: 1

Any guidance for replacing a bed floor on a '75 fleet side?
July 14, 2018, 09:19:47 PM by Ed4all10 | Views: 71 | Comments: 3

Hello all. Sorry if this has been asked before, but I couldnít find exactly  what I was looking for in the search.  :) Iím helping my nephew fix up his 86 k10 with a factory 305. Since he just got his license, budget is an issue. He wants to install a header back exhaust with shorty headers, so that when he saves up for a 350, he can keep the exhaust on the truck. I have 3 questions:

1. Any tricks on getting the stock exhaust manifolds off? I.e heat, penetrant, etc?

2. What to do with the air pump lines after removing the stock manifold? If memory serves, there are 2 on the pass side, and 1on the drivers. Where would be the best place to plug them, or cut them off? He already removed the belt that is driving the air pump I believe, so no air is flowing through them.

3. Would shortys even be worth it on a 305 with 85k miles on it? I have only ever dealt with long tubes on my 85, so I assume the fitment is still a chore.

Thank you very much!

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* Recent Posts

Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS by ehjorten
[Today at 09:07:47 AM]

Re: Oil Cooler Leak by ehjorten
[Today at 08:58:15 AM]

Re: Brake Pads for JB7 System by Jon87V20
[Today at 08:22:58 AM]

Re: Brake Pads for JB7 System by VileZambonie
[Today at 05:35:45 AM]

Re: 4WD Front Wheel Bearing Pre-load? by VileZambonie
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