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Today at 03:10:16 PM by Chevy454hp | Views: 15 | Comments: 1

Just joined and wanted to start sharing my build. I have a 1977 c10 step side that bought in High School and have slowly and I mean slowly been building over the last 10 years. I have recently picked up a 01 2500 with a LQ4 and 4180e that I will be swapping out my current setup. This is going to be my first "LS series" swap and will need all the help and input you guys can give me. The truck started out with a straight 6, turbo 350 tranny and body parts from about 5 different trucks. I started building the truck with the help from my dad and a high school kids budget... cheap cheap cheap. First on the to do list was to get the truck one solid color so I wouldn't be embarrassed to drive it. Second was all about the power! Swapped out the straight six for a mild built 400 small block and put a kit in the transmission. I am lucky enough to have a local drag strip only 15 min from my house so this build is mostly intended for drag racing and fun on the streets, best time was 14.02 @ 98mph. Third was to work on the body and interior.

Last year I freshened up the engine and decided to work on cleaning everything up and start with my new theme for the truck, Fast Street Daily Driver. I loved the color and build of Stacey David's "Copperhead" truck so... Copperhead II seemed like a good name. I am still working with a tight budget and will no where come close to his build but I'm sure having a lot of fun.

Here is a photo of the truck when I first bought it.
Today at 01:23:43 PM by CO2GURU | Views: 45 | Comments: 3

my grandfather ordered this truck new from the dealer. he passed away about 8 years ago and I just now went and picked the truck up.  It has been in his garage under a car cover for as long as I can remember. Its a 1977 c10 bonanza with the 350 and a long bed with only 23,900 miles on it.  Everything on this truck is perfect. Zero Rust on the body.  So far I have put a edelbrock carb on it and a set of long headers.  I am trying to decide if I should lower it a little and put some 18s or 20s on it.  Only thing I have looked at is the 3/5 kit from DJM. Its a drop spindle and flip kit. what are yalls thoughts on this lowering kit?

If I go with the 3/5 kit what size tire/wheel combo do yall recommend? what width wheel and what backspacing?

Is there anything i need to look out for and any tips i should know. i have been browsing the site a little bit so i have read a few write ups on it.

also any other recommendations on some thing i should or shouldnt do to the truck. just looking for a more sporty classy look.

Thanks alot,
John
zieg85
Today at 10:15:51 AM by zieg85
Views: 31 | Comments: 5

I am going to look at a 1988 R2500 Suburban with a TBI 454.  Thinking of using this engine to replace my ailing 4.1L and converting the 84 to TBI.  This should be interesting for me as I've never messed with a TBI before.  Stay tuned...
Irish_Alley
Today at 09:55:29 AM by Irish_Alley
Views: 21 | Comments: 0

C.T.S.
(Coolant Tempature Sensor) for the ECM on the intake
177 ohms @ 212 deg. F. or 100 deg. C.
241 ohms @ 194 deg. F. or 90 deg. C.
332 ohms @ 176 deg. F. or 80 deg. C.
467 ohms @ 158 deg. F. or 70 deg. C.
667 ohms @ 140 deg. F. or 60 deg. C.
973 ohms @ 122 deg. F. or 50 deg. C.
1188 ohms @ 113 deg. F. or45 deg. C.
1459 ohms @ 104 deg. F. or 40 deg. C.
1802 ohms @ 95 deg. F. or 35 deg. C.
2238 ohms @ 86 deg. F. or 30 deg. C.
2796 ohms @ 77 deg. F. or 25 deg. C.
3520 ohms @ 68 deg. F. or 20 deg. C.
4450 ohms @ 59 deg. F. or 15 deg. C.
5670 ohms @ 50 deg. F. or 10 deg. C.
7280 ohms @ 41 deg. F. or 5 deg. C.
9420 ohms @ 32 deg. F. or 0 deg. C.
12300 ohms @ 23 deg. F. or -5 deg. C.
16180 ohms @ 14 deg. F. or -10 deg. C.
21450 ohms @ 5 deg. F. or -15 deg. C.
28680 ohms @ -4 deg. F. or -20 deg. C.
52700 ohms @ -22 deg. F. or -30 deg. C.
100700 ohms @ -40 deg. F. or - 40 deg. C.


I.A.C. testing
(Idle Air Control)
Terminals A to B should be 40 to 80 ohms
Terminals C to D should be 40 to 80 ohms
Terminals A to D should be infinite
Terminals B to C should be infinite



M.A.P.
(Manifold Absolute Pressure)
Typical driveability symptoms that may be MAP related include:
Surging
Rough idle
A rich fuel condition, which may cause spark plug fouling
Detonation due to too much spark advance and a lean fuel ratio
Loss of power and/or fuel economy due to retarded timing and an excessively rich fuel ratio
A vacuum leak will reduce intake vacuum and cause the MAP sensor to indicate a higher than normal load on the engine. The computer will try to compensate by richening the fuel mixture and retarding timing -- which hurts fuel economy, performance and emissions.


Testing
Check the reference voltage supply at pin C of the MAP sensor (gray wire typically).
Measure voltage between pin A (ground) and Pin C (+5 V ref) with a DVM. It should be right around 5 Vdc.
With Key on engine off the MAP voltage (Pin B, light green wire typically) should read around 4.8 to 4.9 volts. If it reads the same as pin C the sensor is probably is history.
Also check ground reference pin A. With everything off, measure resistance between Pin A and electrical ground (stud next thermostat). It should be fractional ohms

                                                              Manifold Vacuum
kPA      0         10       20        30         40          50         60         70          80         90         100
Hg       0          2.9      5.9       8.9       11.8      14.8      17.7      20.7      23.7      26.7      29.6
Volts   4.9       4.4      3.8       3.3       2.7         2.2       1.7        1.1         0.6       0.3         0.3
         W.O.T.                                                                                                                        Idle


                                                              Manifold Pressure
kPa      100       90         80         70         60          50          40        30         20       10       0
Hg       29.6      26.6      23.7      20.7      17.7      14.8      11.8      8.9      5.9      2.9       0
Volts   4.9        4.4       3.8         3.3        2.7        2.2         1.7        1.1      0.6      0.3      0.3
         W.O.T.                                                                                                                        Idle



T.P.S. testing
(Throttle Position Sensor)

Test between blue and black wire.
.5v idle to 5v WOT
the readings should gradualy change hitting no dead spots
Irish_Alley
Today at 08:33:32 AM by Irish_Alley
Views: 23 | Comments: 0

1. Jump terminals A and B (see diagram below) with the ignition "ON" and engine off. This will start the diagnostic mode. The computer will display a Code 12, three times, by flashing the check engine light. A Code 12 consists of one flash, a short pause, then two flashes three times.

 2. Codes will be displayed by flashing the check engine light. All codes are displayed 3 times each then a code 12 will repeat and the trouble codes will start again.




code - code definition
12- diagnostic mode
13- 02 sensor or circuit
14- coolant sensor or circuit/ high temp indicated
15- coolant sensor or circuit/ low temp indicated
16- system voltage out of range
19- crankshaft position sensor or circuit
21- throttle position sensor or circuit- voltage high
22- throttle position sensor or circuit- voltage low
23- mixture control (m/c) solenoid or circuit (carbureted models)
23- manifold air temperature (mat) sensor or circuit (1990 and earlier models)
23- intake air temperature (iat) sensor circuit (fuel-injected models)
24- vehicle speed sensor (vss) or circuit
25- manifold air temperature (mat) sensor or circuit - high temperature indicated (1990 and earlier models)
25- intake air temperature (iat) sensor or circuit - high temperature indicated (1991 and later models)
26- quad driver module circuit
27- quad driver module circuit
28- quad driver module circuit
29- quad driver module circuit
31- park/neutral position (pnp) switch circuit
32- baro sensor or circuit (carbureted models)
32- egr circuit (fuel-injected models)
33- manifold absolute pressure (map sensor signal voltage high
33- mass air flow (maf) sensor or circuit - excessive airflow indicated
34- manifold absolute pressure (map) sensor signal voltage low
34- mass air flow (maf) sensor signal - low airflow indicated
35- idle speed control (isc) switch or circuit (shorted) (carbureted models)
35- idle air control (iac) valve/ circuit 38- brake switch circuit
39- torque converter clutch (tcc) circuit
41- no distributor signals to ecm, or faulty ignition module ( carbed models)
41- cylinders select error- mem-cal or ecm problem ( fuel-injected models
41- cam sensor circuit (3.8 engine)
42- bypass or electronic spark timing (est) circuit
43- low voltage at ecm terminal l (carbureted models)
43- knock sensor circuit
44- oxygen sensor or circuit - lean exhaust detected
45- oxygen sensor or circuit - rich exhaust detected
46- power steering pressure switch circuit
48- misfire diagnosis
51- prom, mem-cal or ecm problem
52- calpak or ecm problem
53- egr fault (carbureted models only)
53- system over-voltage (ecm over 17.7 volts)
54- mixture control (m/c) solenoid or circuit (carbureted models)
54- fuel pump circuit (1986 and later models)
55- oxygen sensor circuit or ecm
55- fuel lean monitor (2.2l engine)
61- oxygen sensor signal faulty (possible contaminated sensor)
62- transaxle gear switch signal circuits
63- manifold absolute pressure (map) sensor voltage high (low vacuum detected)
64- manifold absolute pressure (map) sensor voltage low (high vacuum detected)
66- pressure sensor or circuit air conditioning
Pages: [1]

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