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TH350C orange test connector use?

March 01, 2026, 06:24:03 pm by Scaryfastatx
Views: 30 | Comments: 0

Hi all

I'm trying to get my lockup working on my TH350C to squeeze every bit of mpg out of the old Scottsdale

I want to know what kind of behavior I should be seeing on the orange connector:

- 12v when the clutch should be engaging?
- 12v only when the clutch is engaged?

Thanks?

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Fusible link or grounds?

February 22, 2026, 08:20:53 pm by Chanman09 | Views: 871 | Comments: 2

I took my 86 c20 out for a great little drive today.

She’s a little cold natured, but after she was ready I drove down by the lake and enjoyed the wind in my hair.

I pulled back into the yard and put her back into her spot and killed it.

Then, I remembered I was going to cycle the ac and heat through all the settings to make sure my vacuum hoses were still ok and that they would pull the vent doors closed and switch to feet and defrost and bilevel.

I went to crank the truck again and no start.

And, the radio quit. I pulled the headlight switch and didn’t have lights either.

So I went and jiggled battery cables and the headlights came on.

I had dash lights and cab light. But when I turned the key, nothing

I thought maybe there was some heat issues with the starter so I let it sit for a couple of hours.

I just went back out there and realize there’s no power to any ignition, and the things that controls - radio, blinkers, fan etc.

So, I’m going to go testing tomorrow.

Obviously I’ll start with the easy stuff an go from there. But with my luck it’s always the hardest and most time consuming thing that it ends up being.

What are y’all’s bets??

A wonky ground? A fuse? A fusible link?

I’m going to pray it’s the - battery ground at the alternator bracket. But I have a feeling it’ll be a fusible link at the starter.

I’ll end up on my back in the cold dirt cussing that I don’t have a third hand to hold a starter while I lose the bolt or washer from the starter lug.

Such is life.

Anyway, any cool things I might need to look at before I cry too much??

Thanks!

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74 c10 hvac control

February 14, 2026, 04:52:36 pm by doneebaker | Views: 3103 | Comments: 8

Hello folks , new user here. I have a 74 c10 with a/c that I cant get the heater motor to do anything. It will run on slow mode when I turn on the key but nothing else. While poking around in there I see an orange wire hanging from the hvac vacuum switch on the right side of the controller just hanging there not connected to anything and I can't see any other wires hanging down it should be connected to. I assume that it needs power but we all know about assuming things. Every thing else is intact. So if anyone would know where that wire goes to or what it is connected to that would be a huge help. I tried to find diagrams online but no luck. Thanks in advance for any help..

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Oil additives

January 29, 2026, 08:29:34 pm by JohnnyPopper
Views: 6463 | Comments: 9

I looked carefully at the categories and where to drop this PSA. This seems the most appropriate. If not, I'm sure it will be relocated by our crack team of mods.

50 years of serious wrenching, seen so many things come and go for various reasons.

Oil quality and additives have always interested me, as growing up poor, it made sense to pay attention to things that actually worked to keep the heart of your ride alive, for as long as possible.

I had a cohort in my early 20's that saw a demo of measuring oil quality in protecting your engine. As he described it, a small roller bearing was pitted against a steel wheel of a larger diameter, bathed in the oil as it turned. Measurable pressure was applied to the roller until it smoked. First to fail: Penzoil 30w. Best at the time: Castrol GTX 20-50.

So when I happened upon a similar demo, using weighted leverage to test additives I was keenly interested. The subject was a roller bearing against a hardened spinning steel surface. A stabilizing additive that I have used for YEARS was applied, and when 6 lbs of weight was applied it smoked. More of the same product was applied, at the same speed and weight leverage, no diff.

Enter the contender: a tiny swab of this product not only stopped the noise, but stopped the burning.

I bought a gallon. I have a few high mile cars that I wanted to try it on.

1. Wife's Euro twin DOHC V6. 162K miles. Cringe, even after oil change, on starting. At least 30-45s of clatter from the timing chains. NOW, 15s, if that.

2. '66 Olds Rocket 425 V8. Valve train tapping, on drivers side, intermittent. Now, Quiet...

3: My K10 TH350 is on her last legs. Keeping her clean to keep her alive. Symptom: funky double shifts- as in- reverse is felt, then positive engagement follows. GONE. ( I expect haters to go off on this one! All fun and games!

)

If you find this interesting, and acknowledged that I'm not a Troll (see history?) I'll be glad to share it with you

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Preformed fuel line

January 15, 2026, 12:40:02 pm by metalcutter1
Views: 9862 | Comments: 5

I am trying to find a preformed fuel line for my 1979 GMC C-10 with a 454 big block.
It's the rubber line under the hood going from the steel line from the tank to the fuel pump.
I know that I can use rubber line from the a reel, but I want to keep it as stock as possible.
I don't know the part number(that would be a great help)
All of the preformed fuel lines that I have found are 3/8, this is not 3/8.
Everything about this truck is 3/4 ton, but it's a half ton.
Any help would be appreciated.

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