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Today at 12:24:09 PM by bluetick36 | Views: 22 | Comments: 1
Have a lifted 84 k10 with a 6 inch suspension lift and bushwhacker cutouts. Currently running 35 12.50 16 thinking about putting on 37 13 16 looks like I have the clearance but not sure. Does anyone out there run 37 buggers on a k10 if so how much lift do you have?
Today at 11:47:19 AM by jdfarmer34 | Views: 15 | Comments: 0
Hi i neesd some help with setting up a transmisson and transfer case swap in my 85 chevy scottsdale 10 i currently have a smoked 700r 4 and 208 transfer case in it and found a complete th 400 with converter 208 tansfer case and cross member for a good price and want to swap this set up in i use the truck on the farm driving and truck pulling its a long box regular cab and has 32s on it what do i all need to modify to make this work im worried about the kick down and some people told me there is a vaccum modulator i have to convert any help will help
Today at 09:11:31 AM by Hoov41
Views: 47 | Comments: 4
I have had the carb tuned. New cap rotor plugs and wires and everytime i downshift it sounds like a machine gun firing. It's so loud. My exhaust is pretty rusted and has quite a few holes in it. Could that be the issue?
Today at 07:24:52 AM by pocale | Views: 16 | Comments: 0
My '86 C10 with 6.2dsl is in a need of new a flexplate/converter and a rear axle rebuild.
I am runnin 28" tires and planning to replace the original 3.08 to 3.55 or 3.73 gears
to have a bit more get-up-and-go but keep the highway cruising comfortable. Tranny is 700R4.
What do you think?
But the main question is the Torque Converter. I would want a bit more stall than original.
But how much is too much for a 6.2 diesel? ... the truck is my daily driver and would hate to
find the engine scream in every down town corner.
Now my best guess is to to search a TC with advertized stall of 1700-1800rpm and Lock-Up.
2000rpm might be too much...?
Any experience and comments shared appreciated. Thanks..
October 20, 2014, 11:34:12 PM by drat_bklyn
Views: 39 | Comments: 3
Looking for some advice on hub lockout replacement.
First off, mine is an '86 K30 with warn standard locking hub on driver side, blank locking hub on passenger side (not sure if I lost a faceplate, but that's what it was like when I got it).
I've been getting a nasty clunk, clunk, clunk making any type of left hand turn in 4wd -- sounds like it's in the driver side front wheel. I pulled off the hub lockout (and since this is the driver side, it's the warn side), and sure enough one of the 3 'spokes' (technical term missing) is broken. Rest of the hub looks ok to a very untrained eye. Put it this way: nothing broken, nothing reamed out, no bits of metal.
I went online to look for a replacement, and all's I can find is a 2 pack hub replacement for more money than I'd like to spend. Seems to me a single lockout is all I need. Q: should I replace the hub anyway? If not, any place to buy just the lockout?