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Today at 09:10:04 PM by werewolfx13
Views: 8 | Comments: 1
My 76 k20 has been on the road for a couple weeks getting a shakedown following being the recipient of an 87 tbi 350 and wiring harness, conversion from th350/np203 to sm465/np205. All has been well until it died as I lugged it a bit pulling uphill into a driveway and would not restart. Following that, diagnosis began:
Truck cranks fine. Fuel pump does NOT cycle. Checked for voltage at the pump, no voltage for priming or while cranking. Jumped the test lead at the fuel pump relay directly to the battery, fuel pump runs, and fuel pumps to the throttle body with good pressure. Truck will NOT start. Checked for voltage at the coil, solid 12v. Replaced ignition module and pickup coil, truck still will NOT start. Fuel pump will NOT run without being jumped to the battery.
I do not have a CEL hooked up (76 cluster minus its printed circuit, all aftermarket gauges except speedometer), will be buying a basic obd1 reader and fuel pump relay, and will confirm no spark.
New parts already installed either now or during the light refresh of the motor:
AC Delco Cap & Rotor
BWD Ignition Module (replaced at the refresh, and again today in spite of the first one testing good)
BWD Pickup Coil (original AC pickup was out of spec for resistance, and the plastic connector that plugged into the module was missing)
AC cr43ts plugs
Precision Fuel Pump
Wix spin on fuel filter setup
Fusible links @ firewall have solid continuity and voltage across.
Fusible link @ starter replaced with a weather sealed automatic reset circuit breaker, already disconnected the battery for a minute and reconnected to rule it out, but continuity is solid all the way across anyway.
Afraid of it being bad ecm?
Thanks in advance, I will be working at least the next 7 days and trying to recover from a cold, and wont have time to perform any more tests until then.
Today at 11:16:24 AM by MrFiveOh
Views: 89 | Comments: 10
I already searched and could not find anything as of yet.
I am wanting to get a dealer engraved rear bumper like the one attached. Has anyone done this or know how to? I currently have a step bumper installed.
Today at 09:27:10 AM by BlackTomC
Views: 44 | Comments: 4
Quick question for y'all, my dome light power feed works just fine, door jamb switches have been replaced and function accordingly, however, in order to get the bulb to light off, I have to ground the bulb to the chassis, the white ground wire doesn't do anything.... Any quick tips for getting that diagnosed and fixed?
TL:DR - Orange power wire works, white ground wire doesn't do anything, have to ground bulb to chassis to get it to light up. Both door jamb switches replaced.
1978 GMC Sierra K25 Suburban
September 26, 2016, 06:24:26 PM by SinisterC10 | Views: 21 | Comments: 1
Hello everyone, my name is Bill and I live in Washington state. When I'm not working on vehicles I am a computer technician for a local business. I have had two Kidney/pancreas transplants and am currently recovering from the latest ones.
I decided to join the site because I recently purchased a 1981 c10 Shortbed Chevy and figured this to be the best site to join. I have been a lifetime Gold member on NastyZ28.com for over 15yrs. I have extensive knowledge of the second generation Camaros but hoping to learn some new things about the truck I have now.
The 81 Shortbed I have has a 350 sbc with a 700r4 transmission. The engine has headers, intake, carb and cam. I know it is not the original engine as the VIN number indicates it originally had a 350 diesel in it.....yuck. As far as the transmission goes, I'm not sure if this truck came with the 700r4 or not.
I figure the truck is either a Cheyenne or a Silverado. It has plush carpet, headliner, carpeted door panels and power locks, Windows and had cruise control at one time. The major issues the truck has right now is that there is a fingernail sized rust bubble under the paint up above the passenger window but not on the cab corner and also both doors are a PITA to shut and the passenger door sticks out past the body down on the bottom corner. I tried adjusting the strikers but that didn't help. Other than that it just needs a dash pad and a new AC box (I plan on putting in vintage air). The truck was painted 6yrs ago and at that time they installed new weatherstripping on the entire truck. It has also been lowered all the way around with lowering springs and has a small C notch in the rear frame rails.
My plan this winter is to install the 383 stroker and TH400 out of my Camaro into the truck, as I have been parting out my street/strip car. I was hoping to just use the built 10 bolt out of my car in the truck but I see that it is slightly shorter and does not use the shock mounting brackets. I should still be able to use the Wilwood rear disc setup on the trucks 12bolt though. I also plan on putting an Eaton posi with Yukon ring gear and axles in as I can get them at wholesale. I also have a brand new AAW Highway 22 wiring kit that I will install.
I paid $7900 for this truck.
Here are a couple pics:
September 26, 2016, 05:00:44 PM by ehjorten
Views: 32 | Comments: 1
Is there any technical reason why I could not fit the 1997-2000+ 4L80e Transmission pan on my 1991 4L80e? The reason why I ask is it has a drain plug in it stock (GM 24204278), Filter (GM 89016656). Also...while cast aluminum is nice, it isn't as forgiving at a steel pan! You can bash a steel pan and be okay, but not an aluminum one. I would also get the GM composite, reusable gasket (GM 8677743).
Re: I'm creating more problems than I'm fixing. by tc197
[Today at 09:58:32 PM]
Re: Driveline Vibration by Rattler12
[Today at 09:35:58 PM]
Re: might be trading the 2002 by Irish_Alley
[Today at 09:31:40 PM]
Re: 87 tbi 350 transplant, no spark, no voltage to fuel pump by bd
[Today at 09:18:56 PM]
87 tbi 350 transplant, no spark, no voltage to fuel pump by werewolfx13
[Today at 09:10:04 PM]