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Today at 12:04:48 PM by plyncntry | Views: 49 | Comments: 2





Low Beam is top picture, High Beam bottom. When low Beam is on the high beams are barley lit... when high beams are on the low beams are barely lit.

Low beams on- high beams should have no power at all... High beams both high and low should be bright, correct?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Today at 09:12:41 AM by Leewit | Views: 29 | Comments: 1

I have a '78 454 Scottsdale 3/4 ton (I think). I went to drive it last week and it died in the road very slowly. Normally the truck takes a little to prime with fuel and I know it guzzles but it runs like a race horse once it's going. I had driven maybe three blocks and I had a quarter tank of gas according to the gauge. So it dies as I dive for the curb. A good Samaritan tried to help me by pouring gas down the carburetor, but by then the starter gave up and the electrical died completely. So it got left. Next day I put 3-4 gallons in the tank with a can. I hooked the battery up for a jump and tried to start the truck. It cranked but wouldn't turn over. When I turned the key off the entire ignition cylinder came out of the column and the starter kept going until I could get the battery disconnected. So I replaced the starter solenoid and tried it again. I had full electrical but the starter only clicked after that. The battery kept getting hot and the cables would get hot so I took the battery and had it tested, tested as fully charged, appears fine. I checked the positive and negative cables, they've been replaced and they aren't corroded, loose or damaged. No corrosion or acid build up on the terminal posts or cable clamps.

I'm thinking I need to test my starter out of the truck, clean it and the mount and reinstall it. The battery cables getting hot has me concerned however, because it does it when the battery is connected, even if the key is off. To make sure the (now removable) ignition cylinder wasn't the culprit, I rigged a push button and had the same results. I'm at a loss for what else could be happening. Also, I have no idea if it's related or not but the day all this started the rear tail lights quit working; the brake lights work, so do the turn signals. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Today at 06:16:00 AM by Kl7293 | Views: 86 | Comments: 7

I have a 1978 Chevy truck 4wd automatic. I want to do a LS swap but I am unsure about what route to do for a transmission. The stock trans is a 350 with no overdrive. Thanks for any help.
January 15, 2018, 09:54:17 PM by Hypageck | Views: 69 | Comments: 1

Warning, long post because I want to give as much info as possible.
Hoping to get some help.
To start off, I've searched the forums endlessly and haven't found anyone with my exact issues.
Specs -
86 k1500, originally had 305 & 700r4. Quadrajet M4MED.
Work done - essentially everything below the doors is new, short of the tranny which was *supposedly* rebuilt about 5k miles ago. Transfer case, brake system from the pedal to all 4 corners, radiator, all suspension, every bearing and seal that exists on the vehicle, body mounts, etc etc etc

Recent work leading to problems -
Spun a rod bearing on 305 so I dropped in a new GM Performance 350 crate. 195hp version. Had my original intake manifold hot tanked, replaced the oem exhaust manifolds, new distributor, new spark plugs, reused plug wires (only 500 miles on them), new water pump, new alternator, new fuel pump and pushrod, new battery, new reman Quadrajet, reused flexplate (looked good with no cracks/wear), new visible fuel filter(removed the one in the carb), new motor mounts, new TV cable for 700r4(mounting clip broke during removal), all new gaskets, new 8" harmonic balancer (I'm probably forgetting a few things)

Put on harmonic balancer per every instruction I could find and common sense (it really only goes on one way because of the key) and checked initial timing by looking down the oil  holes in the valley to ensure balancer wasn't off at all. Painted marks on balancer to check for outer/inner movement. Installed intake and set intial timing to 12 btdc, primed oil system and installed new HEI dizzy and made sure it was visually close to firing on #1. Installed new carb with new mounting gasket. all Electronic Spark Control components unhooked, all emissions crapola removed, ran new vacuum lines for everything (brake booster in rear, TCC switch to manifold vac, dizzy to manifold vac). Reinstalled all pulleys and belts, etc

Fired engine up, set initial timing (with vac advance unhooked/plugged) to 12 BTDC, ran engine for 30 minutes @2k rpm with zinc break in additive. Engine ran fine the entire time and never had a problem. Drained it down, new oil/filter. Start truck up, want to go for a spin and this is where the problems happen -

Truck has NO power when in gear, feels as if the transmission won't let it move. Pull it out of gear, and it's delayed to respond, but will rev up. In higher revs, it's a lot more responsive. Back in gear, same problem. As if the engine won't spin up. My old 305 was very responsive at lower rpm and would occasionally break the tires loose on gravel, the new 350 won't even get out of its own way, feels like the brakes are locked up (verified they aren't) or as if the tranny is turning against itself. It's also VERY hard to push in neutral.

I've adjusted the timing 876 different ways - 10, 12, 4, 8, tried ported and manifold vacuum. Best running is 12BTDC and manifold vac on VA can.
Set the TV cable per the GM service manual(press the release button, push adjuster toward firewall till flush, open carb throttle by hand to full and listen for clicks from the adjuster).
I've checked for vac leaks with ether on the base of the carb, all vac ports, intake manifold sides and front/rear

I originally tried to reuse my old dizzy as it has brand new rotor/cap/coil. I cleaned the insides of it and checked the VA can for proper movement. With this installed, the truck would eventually jump timing by 12-17 degrees and I'd have to pull it and start the timing process all over again. Before install I shimmed it for endplay and measured the gear against a new dizzy (1.225OD on both). Dizzy kept jumping timing during anything other than idle. Replaced dizzy and now it will keep timing.

Although it keeps timing, it just doesn't seem to have the power a new 350 would. My worn out 305 had more.

During a test drive, the vehicle had NO acceleration ability until higher rpms(3k or so).

TL,DR -new 350 has horrible power, won't rev up and vehicle hardly moves while in gear. >:( :'(

Any suggestions and questions/comments are welcome.
Jon87V20
January 15, 2018, 08:28:33 PM by Jon87V20
Views: 64 | Comments: 4

Hi, Fellas:

1987 Chevy Suburban V20 350/TH400/NP205

Had kind of a scare today. All of the sudden my front passenger wheel started violently wobbling and shaking under moderate to heavy braking. The only way to get it to stop seems to be moving the steering wheel back and forth quickly and letting up off the brakes. I haven't had a chance to get in there and look at it yet. I did take that tire in for repair a few weeks ago but I can't think of why that would matter. The wheel didn't feel or sound loose during the shaking but I guess I shouldn't rule it out.

Also the steering in this truck is very sloppy. It has about an inch, maybe slightly more of play in the steering wheel. Could this be from too much slop in the steering letting the wheels wiggle? I just replaced the rotors on this about a year or two ago but haven't changed anything else yet.

Is this what is referred to as the "Death Wobble"? Should I assume it's not safe to drive this way?

Thanks!
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