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I got a stock Vortec 350 and 700R in mine has an AirGap with an Edde 600, gets good mileage but it's a torqueless wonder but then again I'm not a small block person either,lol, can't wait to put the big block in..
Four bits from me:1) If you use the air-gap manifold, you must use a thermostatic air cleaner (i.e. stock) that can pull heat off the exhaust manifold/headers to get the carb warmed up. The process of vaporizing gasoline requires the heat of vaporization. This is why gasoline spilled on your hands feels cold as it evaporates. This has the effect of refrigerating the carb or throttle body, hindering carburetion and resulting in poor gas mileage and performance. ANY induction system will benefit from a thermostatic air cleaner, but the air-gap manifold requires it, so if you want to go the two-chrome-pie-plates, exposed-element setup, don't use an air-gap manifold so the carb can get some heat from the intake manifold.2) You will always get more precise mixture from fuel injection, of whatever type. Carburetion is by nature an approximation. That approximation has to err to the rich side, because if it errs to the lean side, the fire goes out. Those two things taken together mean that you will always get better performance and gas mileage -- other things being equal and both set up properly -- from fuel injection than from carburetion. I chose carburetion because that's more date-appropriate to the truck and I like to tinker, but if you want the best performance, other things being equal, go fuel injection.3) You race horsepower, but you drive torque. Unless you are circle-track racing and can keep the engine high in the rpm band all the time, you want torque over horsepower, and torque peaking at lower rpms. Lots of high-hp muscle cars got embarrassed by the Buick GSX back in the day, because though it had only 360 hp, it had 510 ftlb of torque at only 2800 rpm. Several good cams for torque. I used the Comp 12-300-4. You can compare the Comp cams at their camquest.com dyno simulator. Google my last name and 12-300-4 and you'll find several threads here and elsewhere about my selection process and some other cam choices depending on your trade-offs.4) To properly set up the fuel injection or carburetion, the best bet is to get an air/fuel ratio meter. Yeah, it's $240, but you are spending a lot of money already and poor carburetion will keep you from getting the most out of it. I recommend the NGK unit over cheaper items. I've used it a lot, and it will keep you from convincing yourself that you are set up right when you are not. http://www.amazon.com/NGK-Powerdex-Air-Fuel-Ratio-Monitor/dp/B0018MUNTM
I honestly wouldn't mind a big block,but picking up a complete running(Has a tick,probably rod or main bearing) TBI 350 for $75 bucks.
Quote from: 87scottsdale on July 12, 2013, 07:25:54 PMI honestly wouldn't mind a big block,but picking up a complete running(Has a tick,probably rod or main bearing) TBI 350 for $75 bucks.Can't go wrong with that I guess..
I am already using Long tube header so that eliminates the use of exhaust to heat the air cleaner.2. I am looking for torque and not HP,but there is no reason I can not achieve 320WHP with gobs of torque.
TBI heads arent true vortecs, TBIs where in 87-95 the real ones where under the hoods in 96-02 L31 and these where TPI. only under one hood that i know of that has the true votec heads and tbi setup and it was a 96 g30. i have heard of problems when using tbi vortec heads with a carb its only power robbing flow between the intake and heads think aftermarket intakes do flow better. im only putting this out there so when you buy heads you just dont go with tbi heads and think you got the real deal.
good deal. just when i saw tbi i thought you were using tbi vortec heads
A real good source for inexpensive Vortec heads is Partiot if you go the aftermarket route.