73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 4 Wheel Drives => Topic started by: MyOldScottsdale23 on January 07, 2012, 11:09:05 pm
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I just bought a 85 Scottsdale that has seen better days. It has bad steering problems and I don't know if it's from being treated bad or if the body lift has compromised it somehow. It jumps around on it's on and has bad bump steer. It also will oversteer to the left and won't turn very far at all to the right. May have been some junk part swaps or something. Any ideas on how to help? Thanks in advance!
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How tall is the body lift?
Is it just body, or is it suspension lift too?
If you are having steering problems, it sounds like the steering geometry has been changed due to the lift.
I know if you put a suspension lift on, you need to change the steering arm.
I look forward to hearing more about the lift kit.
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body lifts only effect the steering intermediate shaft. not the steering geometry itself. what size tire are you running
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Those exact symptoms sound like a suspension lift with a factory arm.
Doesn't sound like a body lift induced issue to me.
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Those exact symptoms sound like a suspension lift with a factory arm.
Doesn't sound like a body lift induced issue to me.
Also you should check the front end suspension parts. Do what they call a dry park check. Leave vehicle off, have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you look under in front for parts that are loose or not responding with the steering shaft turning. Or sluggish parts, that will have a very big impact on how it drives down the road.
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It has a 3" body lift and 3" blocks front and rear. I think the shaft between the gear box and the firewall is different but it looks stretched like the telescopic part is open too far and the coupling at the gearbox looks stretched or bent. I would post pic but my phone is my only Internet.
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It has a 3" body lift and 3" blocks front and rear. I think the shaft between the gear box and the firewall is different but it looks stretched like the telescopic part is open too far and the coupling at the gearbox looks stretched or bent. I would post pic but my phone is my only Internet.
It has blocks up front ? That is bad news and a no-no in my opinion. It was probably a home job, which in case it most likely is not right at all. It is dangerous to have blocks up front, it not done absolutely perfect your truck will wonder all over, and from what you say it sure sounds like that to me. It would really help if you could get a couple of pics so everyone can see what you are talking about, if at all possible.
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The 3" front block is your problem.
If you want to keep the suspension lift I suggest a spring lift for the front, and you MUST use a raised steering arm, or dropped pitman arm or a combination of both with any lift.
In many states the block in the front is illegal. At the very least it is unsafe. During cornering it can roll out from between the spring and axle.
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yes please get us pics. blocks up front vile lost a friend due to someone doing this stupid stunt
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Wow that's scary. I can't thank you guys enuf. It does make sense now that you point it out. I'll be taking the lift off as soon as i can get to the salvage yard to get some stock u-bolts.
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Front blocks bad. The reason it turns sharp one way and not the other is because of them.
Try putting a couple positive arch rear springs in when you take the block out. This will give you a couple inches at the least.
That can be adjusted out in the drag link if you put 3" front springs in. Correct way is to get the drop arm.
Re using U bolts is a NO NO too. U bolts stretch when tightend. Get new U bolts, they are fairly inexpensive for the piece of mind they provide.
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New bolts, got it. I had planned on taking all the body and blocks out anyway and goin for a 4" suspension lift with springs. I guess now I will have an easier time convincing the wife that it needs to be done NOW, lol.
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New bolts, got it. I had planned on taking all the body and blocks out anyway and goin for a 4" suspension lift with springs. I guess now I will have an easier time convincing the wife that it needs to be done NOW, lol.
When life or death is involved, I find it is easier for my wife to say ok. 8)
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The wife never says " why don't ya just git rid of that hunkajunk allready " ?
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I actually sold a 2008 LTZ Duramax Crew and bought this truck. So, she isn't complaining yet. What she don't know is I will end up spending it all on this truck eventually.
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Definitely loose the blocks (but you've already heard that). A good quality lift kit will get you the lift you want safely.
On a lighter note...
If it comes to it, every time you buy a part for the 1985 get a quote ticket for the same part from the 2008 (i.e., 1985 water pump vs. 2008 duramax waterpump; 1985 fuel pump vs. 2008 duramax fuel pump;1985 transmission versus 2008 duramax transmission, windshields, radiators, bearings, etc.). :P
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I have the EXACT same problem with my truck... Blocks in the rear not sure about front.. If there are they are small. Someone told me it was the 2" body lift I had.. I may post pics tomorrow if I can
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I have the EXACT same problem with my truck... Blocks in the rear not sure about front.. If there are they are small. Someone told me it was the 2" body lift I had.. I may post pics tomorrow if I can
There are two different ways to lift a truck. Suspension lift or Body lift.
On a suspension lift, on the rear you either use higher arched springs or spacer blocks between the axle and stock springs. On the front you use higher arched springs only. Never use spacer blocks in the front.
On a body lift, the suspension and springs are untouched and all the lift is achieved by simply adding spacers under the box, cab and radiator support. You're simply lifting all the sheet metal further off of the frame.
Pics would be great.
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I have the EXACT same problem with my truck... Blocks in the rear not sure about front.. If there are they are small. Someone told me it was the 2" body lift I had.. I may post pics tomorrow if I can
There are two different ways to lift a truck. Suspension lift or Body lift.
On a suspension lift, on the rear you either use higher arched springs or spacer blocks between the axle and stock springs. On the front you use higher arched springs only. Never use spacer blocks in the front.
On a body lift, the suspension and springs are untouched and all the lift is achieved by simply adding spacers under the box, cab and radiator support. You're simply lifting all the sheet metal further off of the frame.
Pics would be great.
The only exception to that rule is the use of a small "wedge" in front to correct steering geometry on bigger lifts. The best way is too cut off the spring perches on the front axle and build in the angle when you weld them back on. But most shops just use a wedge, they work and are pretty common.
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well mine has blocks only in back and a 2" body lift and its having the same symptoms as his. thanks for the replys when i get off work today ill try to get some pics if it isn't raining
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unless you put the it in yourself i would bet the front has newer springs or the rear would be about 4" higher than the front, but whats your truck doing
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just like his i can turn to the right only half as much as i can turn to the left.. guessing i need to get an adapter for steering? i have pics now just gotta upload em
(http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj582/josh_brooks2/IMG_0254.jpg)
(http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj582/josh_brooks2/IMG_0256.jpg)
(http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj582/josh_brooks2/IMG_0253.jpg)
(http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj582/josh_brooks2/IMG_0255.jpg)
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I know on some vehicles, that the steering box can only turn so many turns to the left and right, and there is a "center" for them. I am not sure about these trucks, I have never rebuilt one for these trucks yet, I have to when I get to that part of my build, so I will know then.
Maybe someone else can pipe in and say wether these boxes are like that.
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I think it it also worth noting that when coupled with larger tires and the stress that comes with them, these trucks have a tendency to crack the frame at the steering box. I would definately check that as well.
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I think it it also worth noting that when coupled with larger tires and the stress that comes with them, these trucks have a tendency to crack the frame at the steering box. I would definately check that as well.
already welded that and patched it up ;)