Post by: MannyDantyla on April 16, 2015, 11:14:43 pm
I'm not the first to do the "$50 paint job" and I wont be the last. More info:
- http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html (http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html)
- http://www.gwellwood.com/project-cars/the-crusty-chevy/tremclad-and-a-roller/ (http://www.gwellwood.com/project-cars/the-crusty-chevy/tremclad-and-a-roller/) )
Basically, the idea is that oil-based enamel paints from your hardware store can be ROLLED onto the vehicle if you thin heavily with mineral spirits. The mineral spirits help it level out while it's drying and its supposed to make the paint cure faster so you can wet sand the next day. The popular paint for this is Rustoleum Stops-Rust (or Tremclad for you Canadians). Once the dots were connected and it was discovered that boat painters have been doing this for decades, people started using boat paint which is supposed to be easy leveling right out of the can and is a urethane enamel as well and boasts UV protection which Rustoleum can not.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint1.JPG)
But, Instead of using Rustoleum or boat paint, I'm going to use Sherwin-Williams "all surface" oil-based enamel! Why? Because you can get it mixed in any color you can possibly imagine! The folks at the Sherwin-Williams store will mix any color from their massive pallet. Good luck trying to get Home Depot to do that for you with Rustoleum (they will not and can not). And it says it's UV resistant, which Rustoleum is not. However, I've done a lot of research and I've never found anyone else who has claimed to use this paint. So, hmmm... It's also more expensive, $23 for a quart plus tax and about $60 a gallon. Thats twice the price of rustoleum. That will make this the $100 paint job after supplies and such, lol.
The only problem... deciding on the right color is really hard!
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/gecko-green3.jpg)
What I bought was Sherwin-Williams 6719 Gecko Green (http://"https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6719-gecko/#/6719/?s=products&p=PS0") (looks like Medium Lime, right??), just picked up a quart in case its the wrong color.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/gecko-green.jpg)
Mixed 5oz paint with 3oz mineral spirits. Still experimenting with what I need to get it right. It didn't roll on nearly as well as the Rustoleum.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/gecko-green2.jpg)
Let's star with the hood. Keep in mind that it's going to look like crap with only one coat.
First the body work of course:
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/hood3.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/hood7.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/hood8.JPG)
Now I was ready to apply a coat of the Sherwin-Williams gecko green All Surface enamel paint.
no flash:
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/hood10.JPG)
with flash:
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/hood11.JPG)
Wow! look at that color! After the initial shock went away (it's completely different then the Medium Lime I tried to pick out), it started growing on me right away.
More pics coming right up, but this is a work in progress currently.
Post by: zieg85 on April 16, 2015, 11:25:14 pm
Post by: MannyDantyla on April 16, 2015, 11:56:57 pm
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint7.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint8.JPG)
The paint has seperated into layers. I don't think mineral spirits is the correct thing to thin this stuff. The can just says "thinning is not required" and says nothing else about what to thin it with or how much.
TIME TO DO SOME EXPERIMENTING!
I bought some Flood Penetrol from the hardware store for a little over $10. This stuff is supposed to help the paint lay flatter and comes highly recommended my many on the net. I also found a can of medium strength Acrylic Enamel Reducer that my roommate had left over from his S10 build. My plan was to try several different combinations and see which one worked best.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint13.JPG)
I used an old junk hood I had laying around, and made a matrix of combinations. Top row was with penetrol, buttom one without, and the columns where no thinner, thinned with mineral spirits, and thinned with enamel reducer.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint15.JPG)
So the exact samples tested in this experiment were:
- strait paint
- 3:2 paint:mineral spirits
- 3:2 paint:enamel reducer
- 3:1 paint:penetrol
- 2:1:1 paint:mineral spirits:penetrol
- 2:1:1 paint:enamel reducer:penetrol
Oh, and I'll try two diffrent paint methods for each trial. Just plain rolling in one half of the square, and rolling then "tipping" in the other. "Rolling and tipping" is what boat painters do, look it up on youtube if you're interested. But the basic idea is use a brush just after rolling the paint on, just barely drag the brush on the paint to pop all the little bubbles.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint14.JPG)
Things got real messy right away when I picked up the cup for the mix with enamel reducer and the bottom of the solo cup stayed on the floor! I guess the enamel reducer melted it off...
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint16.JPG)
Anyways here's the results:
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint17.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint18.JPG)
I think the best combination was the enamel reducer and the penetrol was the best. Thats the upper right corner in the matrix.
Ugh, all these pics are an a PITA.
Post by: MannyDantyla on April 17, 2015, 12:05:18 am
Actually you made a good choice. I've been a 30+ year employee of SW and appreciate your business. That all surface enamel performs well. I'll be watching your progress
That's awesome! please advise me! 8)
Post by: MannyDantyla on April 17, 2015, 12:12:47 am
The color is getting a closer to what it truly is I think.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/hood/hood11.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint19.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/hood/hood12.JPG)
daggum flies..
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/hood/hood13.JPG)
Post by: illinoisk30 on April 17, 2015, 04:45:03 am
Post by: FlatBlack77 on April 17, 2015, 07:16:23 pm
ive never tried painting cars like this before. ive always used spray cans or the rustoleum/krylon "indoor outdoor" stuff in a spray gun.
Post by: fitz on April 17, 2015, 08:47:29 pm
Looking forward to seeing your results.
Post by: MannyDantyla on April 17, 2015, 10:48:16 pm
(http://www.ebaymotorsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/2014SEMA_33.jpg)
Post by: MannyDantyla on April 17, 2015, 11:01:31 pm
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/before-sideview.jpg)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/before-front-angle.jpg)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/before-rearangle.jpg)
I bought a front clip because I'm converting to the older body style.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/trucks-on-trucks.jpg)
The hoods bent, obvious in the pic. I found another one for only $40. Thats the one I was painting in the previous posts.
============================
Meanwhile, the rest of the body needed some attentions. A bit of rust, plenty of dents and dings...
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/bondo1.jpg)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/bumper-off1.jpg)
For the white, I'm using Rustoleum stops-rust because it's cheaper. I just decided to cover the whole thing for now, while I decide if the green is the right color. It seals up the primer too.
I thinned the rustoleum about 3 to 2, paint to mineral spirits. It rulled on MUCH better than then Sherwin Williams. Completely flat and I didn't even need to tip to pop the bubbles, they just went away on their own.
After one coat:
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint2.JPG)
and after two coats:
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint4.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint5.JPG)
Post by: LTZ C20 on April 17, 2015, 11:05:13 pm
I saw this truck on the internet, I think it may be a member's but no idea who. Anyway, it's a good example and a really nice truck.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/73a991083f42a1a11d55166846514bd4.jpg)
Post by: SkinnyG on April 17, 2015, 11:17:35 pm
Enjoy the transformation!
Post by: roundhouse on April 17, 2015, 11:33:49 pm
Nothing else works
I've read all those sites too
Cause we just can't spend mega bucks to get out truck painted by a pro
And really don't want a expensive paint job on a daily driver work truck
Thanks for posting
And please keep posting up your progress and results and experiments
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Jason S on April 18, 2015, 05:30:05 am
I saw this truck on the internet, I think it may be a member's but no idea who. Anyway, it's a good example and a really nice truck.
Sartobuilt
Post by: LTZ C20 on April 18, 2015, 09:02:14 am
Post by: MannyDantyla on April 19, 2015, 02:12:57 pm
I'm the "Crusty Chevy" guy in your second link up there. I'd do it again in a heart beat for a truck that doesn't have to be perfect. I didn't thin mine at all, and I'm mostly fine with the outcome. But I use it as a truck.
Enjoy the transformation!
That's awesome! Can I ask you some questions? Hows the Rustoleum holding up? Is it very hard? The Sherwin-Williams is not passing the scratch test after 3 days (but, to be fair, it's been extremely humid and not too warm. I'll give it a few more days for a fair trial).
How many years has it been and is it fading yet? My truck is going to be parked outside 24/7/365 and there's plenty of sunshine in Kansas.
Post by: zieg85 on April 19, 2015, 02:58:41 pm
Post by: SkinnyG on April 19, 2015, 06:06:27 pm
The Tremclad was rolled a year ago. The rusty spots, clearly inadequately prepped, are rusting through again - but I kind of expected that. The inaccessible backsides of many panels are n-a-s-t-y for rust, and I was not after a "cherry" or "show quality" restoration - I wanted one colour, presentable-from-a-distance, and easy to touch up.
Leading edge of the hood is not showing any rock chip damage or anything yet. There are some chips here and there from other things, like doors I guess. It doesn't seem to stay super stuck to the body like a catalyst paint does. Probably inadequate prep?
Paint is not going chalky or fading yet (but it will), and the truck is stored outside 24/7. Lots of sun in the summers where I am - it is NOT "Rain"couver here. We also had a decent winter with a good foot of snow or so.
Post by: fxrsrider on April 19, 2015, 08:30:11 pm
The "Infamous $50 paint job," is certainly an eye catching title. But to put things into perspective, I refinished a whole body (1972 MG Midget, see pics below) with professional grade PPG DP-90 etching primer for $75/quart...purchased from my local body shop supply shop. I stripped all of the paint off using a steel brush attached to my Milwaukee grinder. Then I prepped the body for paint by hand with green Scotch Brite pads and Metal Prep. I sprayed the DP-90 using the Chinese paint guns from the same body shop supply and a Porter-Cable pancake air compressor. I did all of this in my own garage and driveway in Los Angeles, CA.
Certainly, with all tools and prep supply, etc....my primer paint job cost more than $50......but the quality of the primer alone would outlast both Rustoleum and Sherwin-Williams combined. Sometimes it "pays" to spend a little more to do things right, than to cut corners.
Post by: fitz on April 20, 2015, 12:22:56 pm
Certainly, with all tools and prep supply, etc....my primer paint job cost more than $50......but the quality of the primer alone would outlast both Rustoleum and Sherwin-Williams combined. Sometimes it "pays" to spend a little more to do things right, than to cut corners.
I think there is room for the $50 paint job in this hobby.
What is the average price for a body shop to do a nice daily driver quality paint job? I'm guessing $3500-$5000. Not everyone wants to spend that kind of money on an old truck.
As far as spraying it yourself at home, that's not always an option. There are zoning laws issues,, over spray to deal with, and not everyone has an air compressor that can keep up with a spray gun.
Quality automotive paint products don't come cheap. The materials to paint my 81 step side cost $1000. That truck was a cab off restoration with all new GM body panels. Would I spent $1000 on materials to paint my M1028 CUCV (MIlitary K30)? probably not. There are lots of CUCV's around that were painted with flat green Behr paint from Home Depot (about $30 a gallon). These paint jobs are well accepted in the CUCV community.
I'm looking forward to seeing the results that MannyDanyla comes up with.
Post by: roundhouse on April 24, 2015, 06:03:00 am
I wouldn't spend that on a paint job in a million years
$1000 tops
We have about $5K in the truck total including purchase price and Fuel injection and NV3500 5 speed conversion
And 4" lift and new 35" tires
Be nice to have it all one color
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Irish_Alley on April 24, 2015, 06:18:21 am
Post by: MannyDantyla on April 27, 2015, 12:40:17 am
perhaps I'm the odd ball around here, but when it comes to autos, cars and trucks....particularly the old ones (these days, that includes the 80's...even though emissions regs apply to anything later than '76 here in CA), I just can't condone "the cheap way." Much respect to being resourceful....and clearly, from the links provided, this isn't the first of it's kind...after 130 years of automobile knowledge (ref: Benz Patent Motor Car, the first automobile [1885 – 1886]), to put Rustoleum on your truck is short changing oneself, let alone Sherwin-Williams.
The "Infamous $50 paint job," is certainly an eye catching title. But to put things into perspective, I refinished a whole body (1972 MG Midget, see pics below) with professional grade PPG DP-90 etching primer for $75/quart...purchased from my local body shop supply shop. I stripped all of the paint off using a steel brush attached to my Milwaukee grinder. Then I prepped the body for paint by hand with green Scotch Brite pads and Metal Prep. I sprayed the DP-90 using the Chinese paint guns from the same body shop supply and a Porter-Cable pancake air compressor. I did all of this in my own garage and driveway in Los Angeles, CA.
Certainly, with all tools and prep supply, etc....my primer paint job cost more than $50......but the quality of the primer alone would outlast both Rustoleum and Sherwin-Williams combined. Sometimes it "pays" to spend a little more to do things right, than to cut corners.
**You can make your point of view known without being insulting. We are all entitled to our opinions. Keep it clean and cool please**
you make a point. I'm doing a LOT of body work and I want to protect it with something very tough. That's my biggest concern with this method. I've already spent $100s on patch panels, bondo, welding wire, rust products, primers, glazing putties, etc. Why would I not spend at least that on the top coat?
From everything I've come to learn about body paint, is that there is no satisfactory middle ground. Either you pay several thousands and get a show-quality paint job, or you pay a few hundred and get a modest paint job. This truck is a not going to win any shows, and I'm OK with that. It's my learning vehicle. Just today, I learned how to weld sheet metal. Lets just say it's going to need plenty of bondo so that it doesn't show. And if it turns out like the DS door I just block sanded, it's will show.
So for someone with an excellent vehicle that was perfected by a skilled body worker, the $50 paint job would not do it justice. But for someone like me, who's having fun working on a new project and learning a new trade, while on a serious budget of $1500 (that's to include new tires and rims), lets just say I'm going to be VERY happy with ANY $50 paint job!!
Post by: MannyDantyla on April 27, 2015, 12:44:11 am
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint9.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint20.JPG)
The roller method is excellent for getting in between the bed and cap without having to remove the bed.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint21.JPG)
The rustoleum goes on SO much better and flatter than the sherwin-williams All-Surface paint.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/paint22.JPG)
In fact, I've decided to just to go with the hunter green rustoleum. It's easier to apply, cheaper, dries harder and faster, and just better. The hunter green is a fine color. It's not super fantastic, but I'll be very happy with it. Here's a comparison of the too colors:
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/gecko-green4.JPG)
This thread is about the paint job, not the whole project truck, so I'll try to keep this short but there is some work that goes on under the paint after all.
I borrowed my friends wire-feed welder. No gas, flux core only. I'll just have to be careful. But first I needed a place to set up shop. The welder needs a 120v power outlet with ground (or else the motor will blow, my friend says) and there were none in the garage (that's filled with motorcycles and a s10 cab :whymewhyme: ). So I backed up the truck to the front door and ran an extention cord out of it! Lol. Hopefully the neighbors don't call the cops again for "parking on an unimproved surface".
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/welding1.JPG)
The tailgate of a K10 with a 4" lift make for the PERFECT standing work-bench! lol
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/welding3.JPG)
Working on the fenders for the conversion to the 73/74 front clip. Here's what I was looking with the paint removed
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/fender10.JPG)
Cut out the cancer:
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/fender14.JPG)
Then everything inside got a heavy coat of rusoleam "rust reformer", I don't know if it's worth shoot but it's better than nothing.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/welding5.JPG)
Now it's time to weld. I practiced on a butt weld and a lap weld first, the butt weld was much better so thats what I did. The harder part was all the grinding and fitting, not the welding. By the fourth patch panel I was pretty good at it, but below is my first attempt, it's going to need some filler in those gaps...
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/welding6.JPG)
The other side:
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/welding7.JPG)
After some grinding you can see where the welder blew through, that was more of a problem where the gaps between panels where too large.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/welding8.JPG)
Post by: fxrsrider on April 30, 2015, 09:49:34 pm
perhaps I'm the odd ball around here, but when it comes to autos, cars and trucks....particularly the old ones (these days, that includes the 80's...even though emissions regs apply to anything later than '76 here in CA), I just can't condone "the cheap way." Much respect to being resourceful....and clearly, from the links provided, this isn't the first of it's kind...after 130 years of automobile knowledge (ref: Benz Patent Motor Car, the first automobile [1885 – 1886]), to put Rustoleum on your truck is short changing oneself, let alone Sherwin-Williams.
The "Infamous $50 paint job," is certainly an eye catching title. But to put things into perspective, I refinished a whole body (1972 MG Midget, see pics below) with professional grade PPG DP-90 etching primer for $75/quart...purchased from my local body shop supply shop. I stripped all of the paint off using a steel brush attached to my Milwaukee grinder. Then I prepped the body for paint by hand with green Scotch Brite pads and Metal Prep. I sprayed the DP-90 using the Chinese paint guns from the same body shop supply and a Porter-Cable pancake air compressor. I did all of this in my own garage and driveway in Los Angeles, CA.
Certainly, with all tools and prep supply, etc....my primer paint job cost more than $50......but the quality of the primer alone would outlast both Rustoleum and Sherwin-Williams combined. Sometimes it "pays" to spend a little more to do things right, than to cut corners.
**
But.. you make a point. I'm doing a LOT of body work and I want to protect it with something very tough. That's my biggest concern with this method. I've already spent $100s on patch panels, bondo, welding wire, rust products, primers, glazing putties, etc. Why would I not spend at least that on the top coat?
From everything I've come to learn about body paint, is that there is no satisfactory middle ground. Either you pay several thousands and get a show-quality paint job, or you pay a few hundred and get a modest paint job. This truck is a not going to win any shows, and I'm OK with that. It's my learning vehicle. Just today, I learned how to weld sheet metal. Lets just say it's going to need plenty of bondo so that it doesn't show. And if it turns out like the DS door I just block sanded, it's will show.
So for someone with an excellent vehicle that was perfected by a skilled body worker, the $50 paint job would not do it justice. But for someone like me, who's having fun working on a new project and learning a new trade, while on a serious budget of $1500 (that's to include new tires and rims), lets just say I'm going to be VERY happy with ANY $50 paint job!!
I meant no disrespect.....and your point about having fun and enjoying your process is, at the end of the day, the most important point made in this thread.
I do believe there is a middle ground. The other posts in this thread about $5000-$10,000 paint jobs are true only for those guys who want a "high quality" finish (beware, some body shops will charge all the money and cut corners all day long on your truck). These "paint job quotes" are for people who don't want to or can't do the work themselves. The most "work" they're doing is calling a body shop and asking, "how much would a paint job cost for my..." Shoot, you can have your truck wrapped in 3m for $1500-$3000. :o
You, on the other hand seem to be a hands on guy and your work (particularly in the most recent pics) shows that you get good results. Nice! 8) Again...so long as it works for you...this is America after all!
The point of my original post was to say that I sprayed PPG primer on a whole car (a tiny one, I admit) for $75 (not including tools......but the tools I used were pretty typical "garage shop" tools, except for the paint sprayers....and I honestly forget how much they cost....but I bought the cheap ones knowing that I could apply two-part paint on cars and car parts for awhile....so it was a small investment). So, there...I believe.... is the middle ground. You can rattle-can primer (etching primer) the parts that you work on (body filler, welds, etc.)....clean and score the original/current paint with red Scotch Brite pads.....then paint the whole truck with a relatively inexpensive two part paint that you can buy at your local body shop supply (you don't have to shoot PPG). Just talk with the guys at the body shop supply and tell them what you're doing....they'll generally lead you in the right direction. (one hint....put a little flattening mix in the two part and save yourself the trouble, time, and cost of clear coat, color sanding, and buffing compound). You could probably get all the paint you need for $100-$150. And it's still dang fun to do! ;D
Maybe borrow a buddy's air compressor, if that's the one thing you don't have. Not sure about your region.....but here in L.A. ....there are a number of paint booths set up for the do-it-yourself-er. $50, gets you a half a day with your own paint booth, equipped with ventilation, and compressed air. (though, as I noted, you don't need a paint booth. If your neighbors are used to you running that welder and grinder on your truck, they won't blink twice seeing you spray some paint.....heck, you just might make them smile! :)
Some details worth noting: even PPG primer doesn't seal the car's metal. So, if had I put that car outside, then all of the seams would have rusted (in my case I took the car down to metal). I'm not sure if your paint will seal...maybe it will, maybe it won't....just not sure. However, that's why auto finishes are two part mixes....there's a chemical bonding that occurs in the paint to create a "paint shell"--for lack of a better term--around your auto body to protect it from the elements. The body shops speed this process up by "baking" the cars after they paint....it's a production line sorta thing....but you do not need a heated paint booth to apply the paint. The paint will cure on its own...say in 20-30ish minutes.
On a more personal note, I toured w/The Boys back in the 90's.....so your window sticker caught my eye. ;)
Looking forward to seeing more process and the final result when you're finished!!!!!
Post by: MannyDantyla on May 02, 2015, 11:08:25 pm
Post by: roundhouse on May 03, 2015, 08:48:54 am
It WILL cause PERMANENT lung damage if you breath it
Also
Cooling up a extra section of air hose between the co
Press or and gun In a tub of ice water will
Get rid of most of the water vapor before it gets to the gun
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: SkinnyG on May 04, 2015, 07:27:53 pm
If you use the isocyinate hardener use a fresh air supply hood
It WILL cause PERMANENT lung damage if you breath it
This is one of the dissuaders for me to spray a quality paint myself. The older I get, the more chemical sensitivities I am acquiring, and I ain't spraying that stuff in a residential area with kids around neither. Just my choice in this matter.
Post by: fxrsrider on May 04, 2015, 09:24:58 pm
If you use the isocyinate hardener use a fresh air supply hood
It WILL cause PERMANENT lung damage if you breath it
This is one of the dissuaders for me to spray a quality paint myself. The older I get, the more chemical sensitivities I am acquiring, and I ain't spraying that stuff in a residential area with kids around neither. Just my choice in this matter.
maybe we should stop driving non-emission controlled cars too....those have dangerous emissions that can cause PERMANENT damage to humans and the environment. Add gasoline to that list too....oh, and not to mention the gasoline refining process altogether. Maybe we can all lobby our local congressmen to put very strict rules on all paint shops....so that eventually all auto paint will be outlawed too. Oh...and not too be too off-the-wall, make sure never to barbecue...charcoal and propane are pretty dangerous to the lungs too....not to mention fire. All....very good points.
Or...get a 3m mask with 07046 organic vapor cartridges and don't invite the neighborhood rascals to hang out with you when you're spraying.
Post by: SkinnyG on May 05, 2015, 10:43:32 pm
Post by: roundhouse on May 06, 2015, 08:16:22 pm
ugggggIf you use the isocyinate hardener use a fresh air supply hood
It WILL cause PERMANENT lung damage if you breath it
This is one of the dissuaders for me to spray a quality paint myself. The older I get, the more chemical sensitivities I am acquiring, and I ain't spraying that stuff in a residential area with kids around neither. Just my choice in this matter.
maybe we should stop driving non-emission controlled cars too....those have dangerous emissions that can cause PERMANENT damage to humans and the environment. Add gasoline to that list too....oh, and not to mention the gasoline refining process altogether. Maybe we can all lobby our local congressmen to put very strict rules on all paint shops....so that eventually all auto paint will be outlawed too. Oh...and not too be too off-the-wall, make sure never to barbecue...charcoal and propane are pretty dangerous to the lungs too....not to mention fire. All....very good points.
Or...get a 3m mask with 07046 organic vapor cartridges and don't invite the neighborhood rascals to hang out with you when you're spraying.
Just use a fresh air hood
It's not gonna hurt the neighbors
But in a closed room for hours while it's being atomized
Is a really bad idea
It's causes severe permanent non reversible lung damage
It kills whatever lung cells it gets to
And they wont ever grow back
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Post by: fxrsrider on May 09, 2015, 09:38:31 am
I spray outside (not in the garage) and use a 3m mask and safety eyewear......(same precautions (save the gloves and tyvek suit) that I use when mixing and applying polyester resin, which is far more dangerous than the auto paint, into rubber molds to make sculptures. To be fair, I use a full face mask when working with polyester resin since the fumes are very dangerous to the eyes).
I'm not sharing all this info out of my rear end....I learned polyurethane, polystyrene, and polyester resin mixing and applications from Polytech Inc. in PA and from working in a contemporary sculpture fabrication shop in Brooklyn, NY where we fabricated sculptures for some of the world's most successful artists (artworks that sold for $100s of thousands).
I learned my auto body and paint skills from my uncle who ran one of the biggest auto body chains out here in Los Angeles, CA and has built an award winning 55 Chevy Sedan Delivery himself.....from the ground up--frame, body, suspension, drivetrain, interior-- full off frame restore and hot rodding, alone in his own garage and driveway, here in LA too.
Post by: MannyDantyla on May 19, 2015, 12:45:14 am
I've been driving around with 7 different colors, lol. That will soon change.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/update1.JPG)
It stopped raining just long enough to do some body work and get two coats of paint on the fenders.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/update2.JPG)
First I filled the gaps in my amature welds with fiberglass body filler.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/update3.JPG)
Then regular body filler.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/update4.JPG)
Then block sanded the whole fenders.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/update5.JPG)
Then high build primer and some glazzing putty.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/update6.JPG)
Followed by more block sanding.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/update7.JPG)
The next morning I rolled on some white rustoleum (I roll on the paint in the morning when it's cool and the bugs are down). I'm sticking to my game plan of painting the whole truck with two coats of white, one panel at a time. This seals up the primer and allows me to continue using the truck as my daily driver.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/update8.JPG)
I've been using the tailgate as my work bench (its the perfect standing height) so the tailgate will be the last thing to get painted.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/update9.JPG)
In order to install the bumpers before I'm finished painting, I rolled the green rustoleum I'll be using. I got lazy and the next morning I just used the spray can version of the same color.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/update10.JPG)
This is just one very ugly coat. Can't wait to start painting the whole truck for real.
Post by: fxrsrider on May 23, 2015, 09:48:28 am
First I filled the gaps in my amature welds with fiberglass body filler.
For jumping in head first like you've done....the metal work looks good. Don't underestimate yourself....from the sounds of this post, you've been doing your homework.....well done. Looking forward to seeing your final results.
Post by: 87_Rado on June 12, 2015, 03:22:49 pm
Post by: 87V20Kansan on July 04, 2015, 04:03:53 pm
I have, without body work costs, what is equivalent to an $8k paint job on my '87 K20. I didn't pay nearly that because I have friends in the industry. However, what that $8k job did for me is force me to buy another truck to work out of because the thought of scratching it with granite tools or granite scraps makes me want to vomit. It also makes parking my '87 in a parking lot an affair that includes lots of walking, nervousness, and constant worry, about idiots hurting it. Oh, and let's not forget the added pressure of avoiding ALL driving situations that could lead to a panic stop. 37's and no weight in the bed make for very easy rear brake lock up and loooooooong stopping distances. All of that about a truck that is painted in one of the easiest to blend, easiest to fix colors in the world, GM SUMMIT WHITE! I can't imagine how messed up I'd be if it were Synergy green, or GM white diamond.
My '89 big block dually work truck will never see the business end of a spray gun unless I am shooting entry level single stage urethane. It is much more likely to be treated to your method. I can't wait to see the end result!
Post by: Flyinhillbilly on August 18, 2015, 06:42:55 pm
Post by: MannyDantyla on September 09, 2015, 03:09:56 pm
In one of your pics I think I spy the University of Kansas. I'm over in Olathe. I will keep my eye out for your truck when I make it to Larry town. Keep it up!
I have, without body work costs, what is equivalent to an $8k paint job on my '87 K20. I didn't pay nearly that because I have friends in the industry. However, what that $8k job did for me is force me to buy another truck to work out of because the thought of scratching it with granite tools or granite scraps makes me want to vomit. It also makes parking my '87 in a parking lot an affair that includes lots of walking, nervousness, and constant worry, about idiots hurting it. Oh, and let's not forget the added pressure of avoiding ALL driving situations that could lead to a panic stop. 37's and no weight in the bed make for very easy rear brake lock up and loooooooong stopping distances. All of that about a truck that is painted in one of the easiest to blend, easiest to fix colors in the world, GM SUMMIT WHITE! I can't imagine how messed up I'd be if it were Synergy green, or GM white diamond.
My '89 big block dually work truck will never see the business end of a spray gun unless I am shooting entry level single stage urethane. It is much more likely to be treated to your method. I can't wait to see the end result!
Good eye! Yes, that's KU in the background, I live just off campus. The students walk buy every day to get to class and the more observant ones are watching the progress of the truck week by week and giving me complements. BTW, are you a part of the KC Square Body association? Are you going to the Midwest All Truck Nationals that is, as I type this, in two days? That show as supposed to be my deadline for this truck project, but I'm going to miss the deadline. :/
Post by: MannyDantyla on September 09, 2015, 03:16:30 pm
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/tailgate1.jpg)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/tailgate2.jpg)
Wait.. no.. the roof, thats that last thing that needs body work (I hope)...
There were holes in the roof, I think they were from a visor. The PO just ripped the visor off and left the open holes there, maybe he thought it would be a nice way to collect rain water or something...
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/roof-holes-1.jpg)
A few months ago I plugged the holes with silicon and sheet metal screws, but now it's time to do something for real about it.
I filled the holes with fiberglass body filler, then sanded it smooth. When I did that, I found rust under the paint!
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/roof1.JPG)
OH GAWD WHY ME?!?!?!
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/roof2.jpg)
I used a grinder with one of the black abrasive sponge things on it, it worked really well.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/roof3.JPG)
Then I layed on some white Rustoleum primer. I haven't tryied the primer yet on anything, I sprayed sandable primer on the other areas of the truck but this time I didn't care so much about little scratches - it's just the hood where no one can see it...
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/body-work/roof4.JPG)
Ok NOW I can start painting...
Post by: MannyDantyla on September 09, 2015, 03:33:39 pm
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/suspension16.jpg)
Now, I'm FINALLY!!! ready for the green paint. oh my God I can't tell you how ready I am to pain this thing green. First I masked it off.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/paint1.jpg)
I've added one one additive to the mixture: enamel hardener by valspar. It says it helps with UV protection, hardness and dry time and is ideal for adding to tractor implement paint. A little pricey at $20 but you only need a tiny amount and I think it really helps. I recommend it.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/paint2.jpg)
So the mixture I'm using is:
- 8 ounces of rustoleum enamel
- 6 or 7 ounces of paint thinner (you'll need to adjust this to your temp/humidyt, more on that in a bit...)
- 1 ounce of penetrol
- 0.5 ounces of enamel hardener
You'll need a little more if you're painting the whole truck, not just the color section of the two-tone scheme.
After one coat:
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/paint3.jpg)
Look at that! Would ya just look at it! I mean, just look at it! lol
One guy walking up the street saw that and said, "oh, so you're going for the splotchy look?" Get out of here! (actually, I think it looks really neat, with a little practice it could be a really cool paint job with just one coat of color paint over a solid white).
Then, I thought I'd try something stupid. I had enough time before the sun was high enough in the sky for one more coat of paint, but the first was no where near dry. I mixed up a new batch and started rolling it on. Bad idea! Along with the terrible orange peel (not sure if that was caused by the change in temperature or what) but it kinda fudged up the first still-wet layer underneath it. I stopped after doing half the fender.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/paint4.jpg)
Post by: MannyDantyla on September 09, 2015, 03:52:34 pm
There's two times of the day to paint without the sun while also still being able to see: the morning and the evening. But there's a problem with painting in the evening: bugs! I tried painting in the evening once and so many tiny little flies and mosquitoes and even one big moth got stuck in the paint.
So really, there's only one small window of time in the day to paint outside and that is in the wee morning hours. I'm fortunate that a big tree is blocking the sun until precisely 9:35. But also, painting in the morning means the paint will bake in the sun all day long and that's awesome. We want that.
But there's a problem with painting in the morning: condensation!
Never before have I payed so much attention to the dew point, which is the point that the air cannot hold any more water and it condensates out. When the temperate drops and reaches the dew point, the relative humidity reaches 100% and dew condensates on the most vulnerable things outside: vehicles. Basically this means that the dew point must be low enough that there isn't condensation all over the truck in the morning. A shammee helps with a little condensation but it's not going to get the gallon of water that builds up when humidity is at 100% for several hours overnight.
And you obviously can't paint in the rain or snow, and you can't paint when leaves are falling. So, in addition to the small window of time of day that is appropriate for painting outisde and the small window of weather conditions that is appropriate for painting outside, there's only a small window of the time of year that is appropriate for aping outside too!
Sheesh! Hopefully now you understand why it's taken me all summer to get only this far.
Anyways...
I managed to get three coats on before it rained and ruined my masking job.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/paint7.jpg)
Remove the masking tape was not fun. This style of painting might not be the best choice for two-tone paint jobs, because the paint sags into the crease in the tape. I also just suck a prep work I guess because the paint peeled off with the tape is several spots.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/paint5.jpg)
And here's the worst offende. Ouch!
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/paint6.jpg)
makes me cringe just looking at that photo
Post by: fitz on September 09, 2015, 05:35:23 pm
Did you stay close to the $50 budget? Around here Maaco paint jobs for trucks start at $750, so you have a great start to a budget build.
If people are reasonable with what to expect with a $50 paint job, I'm sure they will be happy. It sure beats the multi primered colored trucks that are running around.
What year is the blue Honda? That's a cool looking bike.
Post by: MannyDantyla on September 09, 2015, 11:54:26 pm
Then there's the paint thinner, foam rollers ($20 for a 10 pack and you need a new one for every coat), touch up brushes, paint trays, mixing cups... it adds up to well over $200 before you know it. After that you need the sand paper in various grits, polishing compound, wax... and I bought a $70 DA sander/buffer from HF. And, in my case, I needed a lot of plastic body filler, fiberglass body filler, grinding disks, welding wire, applicators for this and that, metal patch panels from competitor, and a $30 bottle of rust converter. Lets not forget the acetone, primers, adhesion promotor, wax and grease remover, terry cloths, tacky wipe pads, rubber sanding blocks in various sizes, latex gloves, libations, sacrifices to the automotive gods, and a transistor radio to listen to the local baseball team.
If I did a good job of keeping track of every time I went to the hardware store and/or auto parts store to buy all this, it could have added up to around $500. Not $50.
Post by: fitz on September 10, 2015, 06:19:05 am
It's gonna turn heads going down the road.
$500 including buying the patch panels is a pretty good deal in my book.
Post by: roundhouse on September 10, 2015, 08:27:39 am
When I was 16 I owned one that looked very much like that
A early 70s. SL-175
Paint looks great BTW
Not all of us have $7K for a paint job on a $5K truck
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Post by: MannyDantyla on September 10, 2015, 01:29:36 pm
You just keep taunting us with slices of the Honda
When I was 16 I owned one that looked very much like that
A early 70s. SL-175
Paint looks great BTW
Not all of us have $7K for a paint job on a $5K truck
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Haha, sorry man. It's a 1974 CL200, more info here: http://dannix.net/node/30
Post by: BBM3 on September 10, 2015, 07:53:55 pm
Not all of us have $7K for a paint job on a $5K truck
That is the conundrum for many of us.
I have blown my budget 2X focusing on things that really needed repair and haven't even addressed the body work yet.
Post by: Bishop1989 on September 10, 2015, 08:39:50 pm
Post by: fitz on September 13, 2015, 06:44:49 am
In my opinion you should have tried tractor enamel like this one http://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4431-11-Oliver-Tractor-Implement/dp/B009H0SERU. Walmart sells cheap spray guns and the money you spent on supplies would have made up for it. Your truck turned out pretty nice though but If the paint ends up peeling off you should give the enamel a try.
Not everyone can get away with spraying a truck in the driveway.
Zoning laws, homeowners associations, and neighbors tend to frown on it.
Post by: Bishop1989 on September 13, 2015, 08:18:20 am
In my opinion you should have tried tractor enamel like this one http://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4431-11-Oliver-Tractor-Implement/dp/B009H0SERU. Walmart sells cheap spray guns and the money you spent on supplies would have made up for it. Your truck turned out pretty nice though but If the paint ends up peeling off you should give the enamel a try.
Not everyone can get away with spraying a truck in the driveway.
Zoning laws, homeowners associations, and neighbors tend to frown on it.
My bad. Living in small town Iowa makes me overlook things like that!
Post by: fitz on September 13, 2015, 10:00:00 am
My bad. Living in small town Iowa makes me overlook things like that!
It must be great to live out in the country where you don't have to worry about things like that.
In your case, I agree, grab a spray gun and have at it.
We should all be so lucky.
Many town near me have zoning by law's that prohibit you from having any unregistered cars on your property. I'm guessing you don't run into these problems..
Post by: Bishop1989 on September 13, 2015, 01:56:10 pm
Quote from: Bishop1989 link=topicspace that I won't have to worry about it.2.msg266885#msg266885 date=1442150300My bad. Living in small town Iowa makes me overlook things like that!
It must be great to live out in the country where you don't have to worry about things like that.
In your case, I agree, grab a spray gun and have at it.
We should all be so lucky.
Many town near me have zoning by law's that prohibit you from having any unregistered cars on your property. I'm guessing you don't run into these problems..
The town I moved from wasnt very strict on that stuff but I moved 4 months ago and now I have enough garage space that I won't have to worry about it. The town I live in now has a population of 300 or so people.
Post by: roundhouse on September 13, 2015, 10:30:54 pm
the city I live in , suburb of Atlanta , requires the vehicle be registered or operable , and parked on a hard surface , although they don't enforce it unless someone complains or your car is obviously not operable .My bad. Living in small town Iowa makes me overlook things like that!
It must be great to live out in the country where you don't have to worry about things like that.
In your case, I agree, grab a spray gun and have at it.
We should all be so lucky.
Many town near me have zoning by law's that prohibit you from having any unregistered cars on your property. I'm guessing you don't run into these problems..
If it has a cover on it or is on a trailer and the trailer has a proper registration that works too
Usually never an issue till a house goes up for sale nearby. Then the listing agent almost always files a complaint with the city
No way I could live somewhere with a HOA though , for two reasons , too many rules and all the places with HOAs have the houses way too close together
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Post by: Dr_Snooz on September 14, 2015, 08:41:12 am
Post by: bairleafarm on September 21, 2015, 03:35:25 pm
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Post by: MannyDantyla on September 22, 2015, 10:16:21 am
I've painted several trucks with a brush and several with cheap guns. I think any paint is better than rusty paint. I've even had some good luck from rattle cans. Rustolem seems to fade. I've actually had really good luck using tractor paint from tractor supply.
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Yeah I didn't know about the tractor paint, that would have been a good choice maybe.
The Rustoleum may fade, true. But I'm going to wax at least once every year with a strong, modern, durable wax which should help a lot. And I added Enamel Hardener to the rustoleum mix so hopefully that will help a little too.
If I get 10 years of life out of this cheap paint job then I will be happy.
Post by: MannyDantyla on September 29, 2015, 11:08:56 pm
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/paint-job-8.jpg)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/paint-job-11.jpg)
Then laid on another three coats of paint. Done!
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/paint-job-12.jpg)
It came out really well I think, the color looks great, but there's some orange peel for sure. I'll try and get most of it out with wet sanding in another week or two, enough time to let it dry. Then buff, polish, wax, install trim, and finally (maybe) let my friend lay on some pinstripe art.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/paint-job-13.jpg)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/progress/paint-job-15.jpg)
I'm really loving the color! It came out darker than I thought and I like that a lot
Post by: LTZ C20 on September 29, 2015, 11:18:49 pm
Post by: bd on September 30, 2015, 10:41:20 am
Post by: BBM3 on September 30, 2015, 06:23:06 pm
Post by: Dr_Snooz on October 01, 2015, 10:22:13 pm
Post by: MannyDantyla on October 05, 2015, 03:12:11 pm
Post by: slammed79 on October 05, 2015, 04:59:26 pm
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Post by: Irish_Alley on October 06, 2015, 12:55:26 am
In case anyone is wondering... YES I am going to install the side molding that will cover up the ugly lines where green meets white.i saw those line and was thinking "um is my computer glitching or can he see it also"
Post by: MannyDantyla on October 14, 2015, 09:27:57 pm
I wet sanded everywhere but not to the point where all orange peel would be gone, I didn't add enough paint for that, but enough to get the brush marks and blemishes out. I used 1500 grit paper.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/finish1.JPG)
Then I started polishing it with Meguier's Ultimate Compound. The stuff is supposed to be all you need, but I found that no matter how many times I polished the same spot there was a limit. Then I finished it up with Meguier's Glaze Compound. You can see the difference in this image:
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/finish3.JPG)
(the whole is where the side emblem will go, I have those in a box, ben sitting there since last spring and I can not wait to finially install them!)
I finished one fender. Now I just need to do the whole truck! This is more work than I thought it would be but will hopefully pay off.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/finish2.JPG)
Post by: LTZ C20 on October 15, 2015, 01:38:32 am
Post by: aaronboss221 on October 15, 2015, 04:53:32 pm
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Post by: MannyDantyla on October 18, 2015, 10:14:55 am
Can't wait to see final product!
me too!
Post by: MannyDantyla on October 18, 2015, 12:36:20 pm
Overall, it was a success. A lot of mistakes, sure, but that was expected. Did it cost $50? Not really. Just the paint mixture (the enamel, penetral, enamel hardener, and paint thinner) added up to over $120. Then theres all those little foam rollers which aren't cheap. But the very cheapest of the cheap paint job, like a Macco paint job during a discount weekend, would have cost at like $600. It would have been with cheap, single-stage paint, one color only (no green and white two-tone paint job like I wanted), and would probably have came out looking just as good/bad as my roller paint job. A quality paint job would start at $1500 and go up from there.
Which brings me back to where I started. There was no way I could afford a pro paint job! I gave myself an allowance of $1500 to restore this truck which included much much more than just a fresh paint job. So an expensive paint job just wasn't in the budget. Then I started looking at alternative methods, like plasti-dip. But when I did the math, a plasti-dip paint job would have cost $400 at least and would not be a real investment into this truck. Of course I could have gotten a dozen spray cans and bombed it, but I wasn't interested in something with basically no quality at all. Then I came across a youtube video of someone painting a small red car with rustoleum and a roller. And it looked great! I started watching and reading more and more. The rolled on version was much harder, shinier, and more durable than with spray cans. I was sold.
-----------------
I finished the polishing. I used a two step process: first I used Meguiar's Ultimate Compounds, then I used Meguiar's Ultimate Polish after that. Usually two applications for each step, using a DA sander/buffer. It took a long time but it worked. Maybe it would have been better to make it a three step process (compound, then swirl remover, then machine glaze) but this ain't a show winning truck or anything and all those Meguiars products are expenseive... I could have skipped the polishing completely by not wet sanding at all, the finish after the last coat of paint was great, but there was enough dust specs and little bugs and drips and sags and brush marks, it needed to be wet sanded.
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/finish7.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/finish4.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/finish5.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/finish6.JPG)
I'm pretty dang happy with how it came out.
I'll try to get a pic in here of when all the trim is put on (side molding, wheel arch molding, emblems, lenses, hub caps, all that).
Post by: LTZ C20 on October 18, 2015, 05:46:15 pm
Post by: aaronboss221 on October 18, 2015, 06:46:24 pm
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Post by: Dr_Snooz on October 18, 2015, 08:03:47 pm
Post by: MannyDantyla on October 21, 2015, 12:42:53 pm
(http://dannix.net/sites/default/files/field/image/IMG_4769.jpg)
Post by: enaberif on October 21, 2015, 09:16:22 pm
Post by: 1967KaiserM715 on October 22, 2015, 10:16:01 am
Post by: Dr_Snooz on October 22, 2015, 10:46:01 pm
Post by: MannyDantyla on November 05, 2015, 12:07:36 pm
Did you do any extra work to the spray paint section? That probably has a small effect on appearance too
Did you cut and buff the lower grill panel?
I really didn't do any work to the lower grill panel. All I did was wash it, rough it up with some 400 grit sand paper, wiped it with paint thinner, and then sprayed on two coats of spray paint. There's scratches and pits that should have been filled with spot putty but I cut that corner.
I thought it would be more hidden underneath the from bumper than it is, I thought that it wouldn't be as visible as it is. That's why I didn't pay much attention to it. I may remove it and give it some more love.
Post by: philo_beddoe on November 05, 2015, 10:05:19 pm
Post by: Joec123able on November 12, 2015, 11:07:08 pm
Post by: MannyDantyla on November 16, 2015, 10:35:48 pm
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/finished/finished6.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/finished/finished7.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/finished/finished4.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/finished/finished3.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/finished/finished4.JPG)
Post by: Joec123able on November 16, 2015, 10:45:06 pm
Post by: AZ87V10 on November 16, 2015, 11:59:51 pm
Post by: LTZ C20 on November 17, 2015, 01:07:27 am
Post by: philo_beddoe on November 19, 2015, 10:17:52 pm
I mean how did he do it?!! How did he do it!! These paint jobs are supposed to cost 5-10k for cryin out loud!!!
Post by: philo_beddoe on November 23, 2015, 09:45:47 am
That's it!! I might do this thing next summer!! It better look like this when I'm done!!! Or someone's gonna pay!!
Post by: MannyDantyla on November 24, 2015, 02:19:59 pm
Yes the paint looks really good, especially in those photos where the sun had set. But in full sunlight, it's a lot more obvious that it's cheap paint with no clear coat. Like in this pic below:
(http://dannix.net/public/pics/83k10chevy/trim/trim12.JPG)
Post by: philo_beddoe on November 24, 2015, 03:30:40 pm
Post by: Joec123able on November 27, 2015, 12:14:46 am
Post by: Joec123able on November 27, 2015, 12:17:41 am
Post by: fitz on November 27, 2015, 06:27:03 am
While I can appreciate a slick base coat/clear coat paint job laid down by a body shop, this paint job shows an affordable alternative that most of us could perform in our driveways.
Great job documenting your work.
Post by: MannyDantyla on December 01, 2015, 02:54:45 pm
Btw you may have already said it and I missed it but did you have to do anything special to put the 70s front clip on the 80s cab? I know there's a few minor differences in the 70s/80s cabs.
Yes, I wrote a big tutorial on how I did it, here: http://dannix.net/node/49
Post by: BBM3 on December 02, 2015, 07:21:12 pm
Your truck looks great.
Post by: Joec123able on December 04, 2015, 11:19:19 pm
Btw you may have already said it and I missed it but did you have to do anything special to put the 70s front clip on the 80s cab? I know there's a few minor differences in the 70s/80s cabs.
Yes, I wrote a big tutorial on how I did it, here: http://dannix.net/node/49
Loved reading your tutorial, awesome job at showing the process, definitely the something I wouldn't mind trying.
Post by: votawconst on December 20, 2015, 03:32:13 pm
Again WOW! your truck turned out awesome and love the two tone
Post by: Captkaos on January 06, 2016, 09:38:59 pm
Post by: SmokeShow on June 14, 2016, 04:07:42 pm
Post by: Macaroni_Sackaroni on August 01, 2016, 10:12:46 pm
Post by: Blazin on September 30, 2016, 09:27:37 am
Being an old body man I would probably get to critical of it though.
I sprayed my 87 V20 last Dec. with Magic brand paint that tractor supply sells. It came out decent. Still looks good except its faded A LOT!
Post by: Macaroni_Sackaroni on September 30, 2016, 08:09:45 pm
Doesn't look bad at all. I've brushed, and roller painted many dump bodies over the years. Never done a vehicle. Always wanted to try it.
Being an old body man I would probably get to critical of it though.
I sprayed my 87 V20 last Dec. with Magic brand paint that tractor supply sells. It came out decent. Still looks good except its faded A LOT!
in the end you will be able to notice the paint quality. This is prob obvious but it doesnt even compare to a really paint job. Im not sure what people's standards are for a paint but if someone is expecting something that looks like a "real" paint job then i wouldnt do a rattle can or roller with cheap paint.
its good to learn how simple autobody but i wouldnt suggest it to someone who wants a cheaper option. would honestly suggest maaco over roller $50.
from experience i did a honda $50 paint job with rustoleum made it look legit and after a month or so the paint just started looking duller i had to keep washing it and its started to loose its glossy look.
heres a link
http://thecity.sfsu.edu/~marcusw1/hondaproject.html#&gid=1&pid=30
http://thecity.sfsu.edu/~marcusw1/hondaproject.html#&gid=1&pid=29
Post by: MannyDantyla on December 19, 2016, 05:46:00 pm
BTW, the paint has held up great! While it's certainly easier to scratch than factory paint, I haven't had any problems with scratching or chipping. No fading either. It looks pretty much like day I finished painting it. Or.. it would, if it wasn't for rust. That's my fault though... dang rust!! But at least repairing it will be cheap and easy knowing that I can get a matching can of paint from any hardware store in America 8)
Post by: MannyDantyla on December 19, 2016, 05:57:35 pm
(http://dannix.net/sites/default/files/DSC07468-good.JPG)
(http://dannix.net/sites/default/files/DSC07473-good.JPG)
Got any high resolution picture of this truck you can send me for the Calendar? 3000x2500 pixels or better?
I'm probably way too late, but are these big enough?
http://dannix.net/sites/default/files/DSC07468-good.JPG
http://dannix.net/sites/default/files/DSC07473-good.JPG
Post by: Captkaos on December 19, 2016, 06:13:06 pm
Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz