Author Topic: 350-6.2  (Read 4634 times)

Offline mrboyy17

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350-6.2
« on: March 21, 2010, 06:49:57 pm »
what all is involved with putting a 6.2 into a 79 truck that has a 350 in it?  will the motor mounts work.  i know you need new gas tanks/lines, but there is a guy near me with a 6.2 for 450 bucks and i want better gas mileage than my 350 gets.  how much would shops charge to make this swap?  any advice?
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Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: 350-6.2
« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2010, 07:06:41 pm »
Can't help u out with the swap but I heard a while ago the diesels are good for long distance travel to get the full benefit of it
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Offline Blazin

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Re: 350-6.2
« Reply #2 on: March 21, 2010, 08:29:22 pm »
First off the 6.2 is an OK motor, but is lacking in the power dept.The little bit of milage you might possibly get from the diesel in my opinion would not be worth the cost of the motor, and the swap, in the long run. If you were looking into a newer motor such as the Duramax, or a Cummings I would say yes go for it.
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Offline three8six

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Re: 350-6.2
« Reply #3 on: March 21, 2010, 08:45:04 pm »
I would even like to see the old 7.3 International in one of these trucks

Offline Mr Diesel

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Re: 350-6.2
« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2010, 09:26:08 pm »
I paid $750 for my 6.2 in 2000 and it paid for itself the first year in fuel savings. It was my daily driver, however.

You don't need new lines or tanks, just drain ALL the gasoline out of the tank and blow compressed air through the lines. You need a fuel return line if your truck doesn't already have one.
The 6.2 uses 454 motor mounts. My truck had a 350 mounted to the original 454 mounts and worked fine, so you shouldn't need new motor mounts. For about $15 each though I would just buy new ones.
The swap is pretty easy, but there are some things you should know to make it easier. If you decide to do it yourself PM me and I will run down a list.
1976 C20 Crewcab, 6.2L/SM465
1982 K30 Crewcab , 427TD/TH400
1983 C30, 6.2L/TH400
1983 K30 Crewcab 454/700R4
1986 K10 350/400. 1989 K30 cab/chassis 454/SM465

Offline Captkaos

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Re: 350-6.2
« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2010, 04:39:22 pm »
Actually V8 frame mounts are the same and will work on the 6.2L.  I am in the planning stages of doing this.

Post what you have Mr Diesel.
I will dig up the list I have.

The 6.2L's are not are not computer controlled.
The starter and alternator wires are the same
Use the coil wire as the power wire for injection pump. 12V to the IP, they will run.
make a harness for the glow plugs to be used with a manual controller. (which is just 8 wires going into one side of a Ford solenoid and a hot wire to a push buttom on the other).
There is a fast idle and cold advance that can be wired by running a hot wire (with the ign switch on) to the sensor in the block and then to the fast idle and cold advance solenoids.

If you want the factory harness, any vehicle with a 6.2L should be the same.
The manual glow plug controllers work much better than the factory set-up, make sure to use self-limiting glow plugs like AC 60G's or Wellman Fast Heats.
« Last Edit: March 24, 2010, 03:33:05 pm by Captkaos »

Offline Mr Diesel

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Re: 350-6.2
« Reply #6 on: March 23, 2010, 08:13:53 am »
Here is everything I could remember off the top of my head. I think this is all the important stuff. There is probably a few minor details I am forgetting.


-Fuel tanks and lines. Can be reused. Remove all gasoline and blow lines out with compressed air.
-Install fuel return line if you don't already have one. You can return fuel into the tank through the evap canister outlet on the fuel tank if you don't have a 3rd port.
-The TH350 tranny kickdown (passing gear) will not work with the 6.2. If you want this feature (useful item) you need a TH400 or a 700R4.
-You need a working vacuum pump on the engine if it doesn't already have one. This will provide vacuum to your vacuum assisted brakes. You also need to install a vacuum canister to hold additional vacuum so you don't run out of power brakes. Or install a hydroboost. The vacuum pump works okay though.
-You probably need a bigger radiator. Most specified for a big block will work well.
-Install a fuel filter/water seperator. You can use a GM firewall mounted one. Scrapyards usually have the housing that mounts on the firewall.
-You need a glow plug controller if the engine doesn't already have one. Or install a manual push-button switch.
-You need an ignition wire running to the injection pump to turn on the fuel solenoid when ignition is on.
-Need a fuel pump. The mechanical ones on the engine work okay, but an electric one makes priming much easier. About $50 from auto parts store. Wire it into the ignition circuit.
-You need a 6.2 flexplate if the engine doesn't already have one. I think the TH400 and the 700R4 flexplates are different, too.
-If the engine was on a manual tranny truck the engine might need kickdown/detent cable brackets off an automatic 6.2 engine.
-2nd Battery tray and 2 new batteries (biggest you can buy). Biggest battery cables you can buy. Don't be cheap here. This will come back to haunt you in the winter if you don't do it right.
-Upper and lower radiator hoses.


« Last Edit: March 23, 2010, 08:23:02 am by Mr Diesel »
1976 C20 Crewcab, 6.2L/SM465
1982 K30 Crewcab , 427TD/TH400
1983 C30, 6.2L/TH400
1983 K30 Crewcab 454/700R4
1986 K10 350/400. 1989 K30 cab/chassis 454/SM465

Offline mrboyy17

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Re: 350-6.2
« Reply #7 on: March 23, 2010, 10:31:47 am »
would it be better/ easier to find a 6.2 truck and swap my 79 body onto it?  i really like the look of my front grill/headlights much better.  or i could find a diesel then swap the front clip but then i would be all miss matched and im not ready for paint yet.  is it a nightmare to swap the front clip back to the older style?  I know there are posts on here of doing the reversel of that but i like the old style.  good dialogue anyways guys
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