Best 8in lift

[Pinski1015]

Hello all! I hope by november to be able to start building my dream truck but I have a few questions so I figured this would be the place to ask. I have been doing research on lift kits and right now it's a tie between the Superlift 8in kit or the BDS 8in kit. I would just like some feedback from those who use these kits and which one is better. My truck will be 3/4 ton and I plan on running 37's. Also should I upgrade the axles? The truck will be used offroad about 30% of the time, I will just be going down trails the other 70% will be for shows and cruising. Any suggestions for gearing? Thank you, your feedback will help alot!

[Irish_Alley]

If you were to only lift it 6 you wont need new drive shaft but if you want 8 go for it I would try to find Dana 60 for the front and 70 or 14 bolt for the rear the 60 ain't needed but it will save you some piano with parts breaking about gearing if you plan on driving it on the road I would go with 4.10 or 4.56 if you jusat crawling or mudding then go with 4.56 to give you lower power

[Pinski1015]

I can find a 14 bolt fairly cheaply around here but I'm not ready to drop down 1000$ on a Dana 60. Is there a cheap alternative? Could I perhaps run a Dana 44?

[Altec]

Make sure it is a Full Floating 14-Bolt. A Dana 44 is the same as a 10-Bolt axle in most respects. A Dana 60 is the way to go for the long term. A 8-Lug Dana 44 would work though... Just be gentle.

The Superlift kit is not bad looking. As long as you are getting the rear leaf kit. Blocks are bad!

If it was mine, I'd probably do a shackle flip in the rear with 4" springs, and a B52 conversion in the front. Which allows you to use rear springs, in the front. You can contact the company I am linking to see what size springs, and shackles they suggest to match the 8" in the rear. The reason I suggest doing it like this is because when you start getting into large lifts with leafs you run into two things. First is that your on road drive turns to junk, and your off road ends up being where the only flex you are going to get is from your frame. This will end up taking more effort, but the pay off will be great!

http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=121

Gearing is up to you. You can find RPM calculators that will let you figure out what gears you need to keep close to your factory RPM range. Or tell you what the results will be if you go bigger, or smaller. Just remember you may want to go with a larger (Numerical) gear then what matches simply because you are turning more weight with those big rubbers.

You may not need to go 8" with 37" tires. A 6" could do it with minor trimming (If that). I run 35" on a 4" with no problem. The big thing really is the tire width. A 14.5" will obviously want to rub more then a 12.5".

Another thing you are going to want to consider is a crossover steering conversion. You run into a lot of problems with the factory push-pull setup. It is just a bad design. The factory setup with big tires can mean your tires are facing forward, and your steering wheel can be locked in either direction.

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog.htm

[Pinski1015]

Do you think it would be cheaper and simpler to run a 6 inch lift with a 3 inch body so I'm higher than that of the 8 and the ability to run the 37's? Would I still have to do crossover steering? And what is bad about Blocks?

[Altec]

Well, you could do a body lift. You can run into problems with wiring, lines, and linkages with this though. Plus it looking pretty bad having such a large gap between the body, and frame. But this is your call. If you like it, it won't hurt. If you want to do this though, I would do a 4" lift+3" body. The lift in the back can be done with a simple shackle-flip, and the front with a set of 4" leafs. A much cheaper route to go, and will offer a better ride. If you did a 4"+3" lift with a drop arm, I think you would keep a acceptable on road truck, and a manageable trail truck.

http://coloradok5.com/shackleflip.shtml

For the steering it is more to do with the design, then anything. I have a 4" lift, and my steering still is limited with the push-pull. Not to say you can't manage with a drop arm though. It will work, and be safe. It is just going to stumble when you really start getting into serious off roading.

The list of problems with blocks goes on, and on. Like axle wrap, blocks pulling out, and some other things that can lead to dangerous situations. Fine for someone cruising around the mall with a light foot? Sure. Fine for someone who enjoys power, and plans to do anything more then a dirt drive way? No way.

[Irish_Alley]

Cheaper if you go with 6 or 4 with 3" body lift the long think you have to make longer one way or another is brake lines and if its manual you have to make the linkage longer if you do 8 you have to get a new drive shaft or get one lengthened that's money right there. Blocks can pop out with off roaring and just driving that's why we all will tell you don't put them on the front. As far as steering all you have to worry about is the frame cracking a simple plate will reinforce it. You don't need the cross over steering just a drop steering arm. If you go with the shackle flip kit then go with 6" up front to level it out it don't look to bad with the body lift and they make rubber flaps to hide the gap if you want to

[Pinski1015]

Thanks for all the help.

[malibu795]

i would go B52 with 52" and 4-6" lift springs will net you 7-8" of lift
did the b52 with cross over steering on mine but with stock rear 1/2t springs
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=16249.msg127561#msg127561