Author Topic: stall converter  (Read 3512 times)

Offline canesfan

  • Newbie
  • Posts: 9
stall converter
« on: October 05, 2011, 12:49:16 am »
84 Chevy Silverado, stock 305 with a TH350. I'm gonna go with either a 355 or 383 BluePrint engine. I'm leaning towards the 355. I'm sticking with the TH350 mainly because of funds. But my question is it necessary to have a stall converter? The truck is mainly gonna be my weekend ride & not planning on racing or dragging with it. But ya never know when I might wanna put on the street & let it rip occasionally. BP motors does recommend stalls for both motors. But will it do any harm to the motor or tranny when I'm just "joy riding"? I'm kinda clueless about the stall converter

Offline screamin86

  • Junior Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 661
Re: stall converter
« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2011, 12:18:24 pm »
it will not hard the motor or transmission without a higher stall but it will most likely stall in gear and be VERY sluggish off the line. i had a 305 with a 214/224 cam in a 305 in a 3000lb trans am with 3.73 gears with a stock converter it would barely idle in gear and would not even spin the tires from a stand still unless i power braked it. i swaped in a 3500 9.5in converter and you could barely tell the diffrence in idle from drive to park and would spin the tires up to a 30mph roll. id recomend getting one. i had a 2800 12in converter in my th350 that was in my k10.
86 k10 lwb 4x4:350 .040 214/224 444/466 112lsa performer rpm 1406 lt's summit racing th350 2800stall
03 yukon xl:tint debadge full boltons
86 ta:lm7 hot cam boltons

Offline scorpion

  • Registered Users
  • *
  • Posts: 104
Re: stall converter
« Reply #2 on: October 05, 2011, 01:00:11 pm »
I agree with Screamin86 - it's not necessary however, not running near the recommended stall for the motor will result in a performance hit.  What the converter does is allow the motor to get into the power band (typically associated where the cam shaft and the intake pair come alive).  Most performance converters advertise a "Flash" RPM.  This is what RPM the tranny will slip to before it starts applying power.  This RPM is important because this will be your cruising and launch RPM and where the RPM will be once you're back on the skinny pedal.

The down side to running a high-stall converter is (IMO) a decrease in drivability (fuel milage) and make the engine and transmission to work harder than they would with less of a converter.  That extra work results in heat and wear for both the trans and motor.  Cam, intake, and converter selection should be considered when spec'ing your motor.  As the converter, cam, and intake combo gets more wild, understanding the drawbacks may help you make a better choice on the motor instead of just picking the advertised horse power you want.

I had a 69 Chevelle when I was younger and, with a little peer pressure, I decided to go to a cam & intake that recommended a 3300 stall converter (which flashed at 3k).  When the Chevelle hit, it hit and was gone when I could get traction.  Getting on the freeway was a BLAST.  When driving it around town though, I started to not like driving past cop cars and through neighborhoods because my motor were spinning to mad heck and the exhaust was screaming "I AM HERE!!!" even at lower speeds.  Gas milage was in the weeds too though I didn't care much at that time. 

Offline canesfan

  • Newbie
  • Posts: 9
Re: stall converter
« Reply #3 on: October 07, 2011, 11:31:27 pm »
Blueperint recommends a 1800-2200 stall for the 355 vortec.

Offline The dream

  • Registered Users
  • *
  • Posts: 147
Re: stall converter
« Reply #4 on: October 08, 2011, 11:02:24 am »
I have a B&W 2000 converter on my 400TH with a 383, because my cam wanted it. Its not aggresive at all.
Never give up.