Pull during braking

[MillerWTime]

Hey guys I recently picked up a 86 swb chevy c10, it had shaking at high speeds (+65) and major shaking during braking. I had the rotors machined and that fixed both shaking problems, although it pulls to the left when braking, harder I press the brake the more severe the pull. I think it pulled before I machined the rotors but it wasn't as noticeable because of the major shaking.  I noticed the right side brake hose has been recently replaced. What are things I should look for first? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[zieg85]

If it were me I would jack up the truck in front and see how easy both sides spin.  Jam on the brake pedal and try again.  If both seem equal check your front end components.  Likely caused are a bad ball joint(s) or tie rod end(s).  An extremely bad idler arm usually affects pulling to the right but check it anyway.  Bad upper or lower control arm bushings also could be the cause

[bd]

You should also bleed the brakes and check the rear brake operation and adjustment.

[HAULIN IT]

I would be inspecting the operation of the Right caliper compared to the Left as the pedal is being applied. My thought is the Left is working much better/faster. Lorne

[Irish_Alley]

ill just copy this from another post i just replied to. with the brakes. i just replaced my brake hose on my 94. never understood how they "collapsed" but upon further investigation i found the problem was actually with the metal bracket in the middle of the brake like

this bracket will rust and on the inside between the bracket and hose the rust has nowhere to go except into the hose. this will pinch the hose and will restrict the flow. at a stop sign i could press the brakes then release them only to not have the truck move for about 5 seconds, enough time for the fluid to past threw the pinched line. one test i did was jack the front up, and press the brakes. i had enough time to hop out and spin the right side(spun freely) then i walked over to the passengers side (couldn't turn it)

[MillerWTime]

I jacked up the front the other day and spun each tire while my son hit the brake pedal for me and they both seemed to be the same. Also when i press brake it stops, and soon as i release brake it releases so I dont think its same as yours Irish.  My idler arm is extremely bad but definitely not pull to the right. Ill try to bleed brakes this weekend and inspect the calipers further. Thanks for your ideas.

[Irish_Alley]

im thinking they replaced the right hose thinking it wasnt working this being why it was pulling. was there any play in the tires when you had it jacked up? also did you check the rear brakes?

[MillerWTime]

Play in tires as in bearing? No play in tires, just repacked bearings as well. Haven't gotten a chance to go into the rear brakes, hopefully ill have time tomorrow.

On top of the brake issue, this morning when I got to work i turned off the truck and the engine kept turning over for about 10 more seconds. Heard that could be from running rich and carbon build up in the combustion chamber causing to detonate?

[CanadianC10]

Detonation will eat your pistons, try running a higher octane and or taking a couple degrees out of timing, or shut it off in gear (lower rpm)

[Irish_Alley]

running rich wont cause detonation, running lean will. carbon build up is from running rich it wont allow the engine to reach a higher temp to "self clean" but too high of a temp will eat the pistons. higher octane will allow  the engine to reach higher temp with out knock. engine turning for longer time could be from lack of gas in the carb. do you have a clear fuel filter?

[bake74]

running rich wont cause detonation, running lean will. carbon build up is from running rich it wont allow the engine to reach a higher temp to "self clean" but too high of a temp will eat the pistons. higher octane will allow  the engine to reach higher temp with out knock. engine turning for longer time could be from lack of gas in the carb. do you have a clear fuel filter?

    " carbon build up is from running rich " ?  Did you mean too much gas and not enough air, as in the carb. not adj. right ?  Or did you mean that carbon build up is from running a lower octane fuel ?
    The federal government has mandated a "minimal" detergent level is all types of fuel to treat carbon buildup, so the exhaust can meet the standard requirements.
     This does not mean that higher octane fuel from 1 gas station is better than a lower octane fuel from a different gas station.
     There are some fuel manufactures that has set a higher tier of fuel for their stations fuel.  As for an example of where I live.  Arco has cheap gas (in every since of the word), I can buy the highest octane gas there, compared to the lowest octane from say Chevron, and I will get more carbon buildup from Arco every day.  This is from personal experience and seeing with my own eyes.
     All I can say is you need to do your homework on the different fuel manufactures and don't believe a add just because it says it is true.

[Irish_Alley]

not exactly what i was implying but its close. what i was saying was if you have carbon build up, its not because of detonation. cause detonation will increase your internal temp, thus you wouldnt have carbon build up because your engine would be running hotter than a engine that isnt burning all the fuel. and if your fuel wasnt burning all the fluid because of impuritys (cheap gas) or too rich of a mix this would leave carbon deposit. wasnt saying to get a higher grade of gas was just saying a higher octane will raise internal temp before knock (good for higher compression or knock not carbon). Canadian was the one who said to run it, i was trying to justify the reason before someone ran a higher octane for the wrong reason. had my experience with cheap gas also. thought i could save a couple cents getting it from the cheap place but it doest cost you performance and mpgs since your not burning as much fuel and the internal temp isnt getting as hot and this would leave carbon behind.