Gauge Cluster Electrical Issues

[ChevyJoe]

I have an 83 c10 and the only dash lights I have ever had for the past 4 years are the right blinker and the battery light. I decided to try and find out what the issue is today. However, I tried a good bulb (works in both blinker spots and battery light) but it does nothing in any of the other spots. I tried the lights on, off, key on, key off, dimmer switch both ways, nothing.
Do I need a new circuit? It's somewhat dirty but I lightly scraped the contacts on both the bulbs and circuit and still nothing.

Gas Gauge
Also, my gas gauge recently moved (for the first time in 4 years) after the cig lighter blew a fuse. It went way past full, then came back and looked like it was working but stopped a little over 3/4. It was stuck at 1/2 for the previous years. This morning it moved again, way past full, and now moved to right around full. Anyone know what would cause this? And how to diagnose/fix it?

Thanks for any help!

[rich weyand]

A multi-system electrical failure is often the grounds.  Let's start with these.  Do you have a ground:

- From the battery to the alternator bracket?

- From the battery to the radiator upper cross member?

- From the right rear head on the block to the firewall?

- From the right front head on the block to the right frame rail?

Are they all clean, tight, and making good contact?

[454Man]

Sound like you have a positive to ground somewhere inside. What's the volt meter read at?

What's under the hood??? If you have to ask maybe we shouldn't race...

[ChevyJoe]

A multi-system electrical failure is often the grounds.  Let's start with these.  Do you have a ground:

- From the battery to the alternator bracket?

- From the battery to the radiator upper cross member?

- From the right rear head on the block to the firewall?

- From the right front head on the block to the right frame rail?

Are they all clean, tight, and making good contact?

I have the first 3 and they are all tight and clean. Look to be making good contact. I don't have the one from the front of the head to the frame rail. I swapped a 350 in for the I6 it had, in case that makes a difference

[ChevyJoe]

Sound like you have a positive to ground somewhere inside. What's the volt meter read at?

What's under the hood??? If you have to ask maybe we shouldn't race...

Volt meter where?

[rich weyand]

A multi-system electrical failure is often the grounds.  Let's start with these.  Do you have a ground:

- From the battery to the alternator bracket?

- From the battery to the radiator upper cross member?

- From the right rear head on the block to the firewall?

- From the right front head on the block to the right frame rail?

Are they all clean, tight, and making good contact?

I have the first 3 and they are all tight and clean. Look to be making good contact. I don't have the one from the front of the head to the frame rail. I swapped a 350 in for the I6 it had, in case that makes a difference

Sorry, that should be "- From the left (driver side) front head on the block to the left frame rail?"

[bd]

I have an 83 c10 and the only dash lights I have ever had for the past 4 years are the right blinker and the battery light. I decided to try and find out what the issue is today. However, I tried a good bulb (works in both blinker spots and battery light) but it does nothing in any of the other spots. I tried the lights on, off, key on, key off, dimmer switch both ways, nothing.
Do I need a new circuit? It's somewhat dirty but I lightly scraped the contacts on both the bulbs and circuit and still nothing.

Gas Gauge
Also, my gas gauge recently moved (for the first time in 4 years) after the cig lighter blew a fuse. It went way past full, then came back and looked like it was working but stopped a little over 3/4. It was stuck at 1/2 for the previous years. This morning it moved again, way past full, and now moved to right around full. Anyone know what would cause this? And how to diagnose/fix it?

Thanks for any help!

Did you check/replace the instrument lamps fuse?

Poor connections from tarnish is a common problem.  Remove the instrument panel bezel, disconnect the speedometer cable from the speedometer, unplug the wiring harness from the back of the instrument cluster, and remove the instrument cluster from the dash.  Using a pencil eraser or crocus cloth, gently burnish the copper foil of the printed circuit at the harness plug connections and the bulb socket connections.  Be careful - the copper will peel from the backing very easily.  Remove the fuel gauge, push the silver spring clips out the back of the cluster housing and burnish the clips and copper foil.  Retension the clips if needed to improve connections.  Reinstall the gauge, plug in the harness and check operation.

[zieg85]

From what I've read so far you only have the indicator lights, not the gauge package?  When you changed the engine did you use the sensors from the I-6?  There is a fuse that protects the gauges, is it good?  Is the plug inserted all the way into the speedometer bezel circuit board?  Inst. lamps fuse good?

[454Man]

The one in the dash. If there is one.

What's under the hood??? If you have to ask maybe we shouldn't race...

[ChevyJoe]

The one in the dash. If there is one.

What's under the hood??? If you have to ask maybe we shouldn't race...

It just has the dummy lights

From what I've read so far you only have the indicator lights, not the gauge package?  When you changed the engine did you use the sensors from the I-6?  There is a fuse that protects the gauges, is it good?  Is the plug inserted all the way into the speedometer bezel circuit board?  Inst. lamps fuse good?

Not sure what sensors you mean. If you mean oil/temp, i have a set of under dash gauges with oil/temp/batt but the battery one isn't hooked up, the light in the dash is still attached to that. Do you know what the fuse box would say for the gauges?