upper and lower ball joints

[Lt.Del]

My 79 Big 10 Chevy didn't pass state inspection today.  I need to throw on some upper and lower ball joints on both fronts.  A quick internet search on www.partsamerica.com shows some TRW joints for around $20-$30 each.  Is this a good manufacturer?

Also, any pointers on replacing these puppies?  I plan to get my ole digital camera and take pics of the process and throw a link to a new page from my 79 chevy website when done, explaining the steps.

I don't know if the stock joints are riveted or bolted, hopefully i will not have to get out the chisel or grinder.   Do you guys use a pickel fork to loosen the joints or just wack the H out of it with a 5lb hammer?  Do they line up when putting in the new ones OK? Any tips from someone with experience will be greatly appreciated.  The estimate I got to have a shop do it was like $550.  I said no way. I know i may be doing an alignment of the front end afterwards.

   

SgtDel
aka "Andy"

www.delbridge.net

1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4

[Pushrod]

The uppers are riveted. Pretty easy to get out with a drill. I had to drill the holes out a hair bigger for the new bolts to pass through.

The lowers are pressed in. They're easy to get out and back in again with the right rental tool. Its recommended to remove them first and check their diameter or the diameter of the hole they go in before purchasing the new ones. Parts stores offer two different sizes.

Seeing that your replacing them a pickle fork would be the easiest way to get them busted loose, but if ya feel like beatin the crap outta your spindles have at it. I've never broken anything that way.

SAFETY FIRST!!!!!!!!!!  Always leave the castle nuts on when your breakin the joints loose from the spindle and have the lower control arm properly supported through the whole job. I'd hate to hear about somebody gettin sprung here.

[flyboy9994]

Hey Sarge

Been awhile since I've been on here. It just so happens I'm smack dab in the middle of a complete front suspension overhaul on my 77 2WD 1/2 ton and just finished doing all my ball joints. Also, I owe you one anyway.... You posted some great pics of power steering pump brackets when I was in need!!

Based on several of your posts it's pretty obvious your not scared of a toolbox and can probably handle upper and lower ball joints just fine. It's a hard, dirty, scary job the first time through but really pretty straight forward and really difficult to screw anything up. Just pay attention to what you are doing and take your time. Instead of me going through the whole process step by step, I would recommend getting a Haynes or Chiltons manual and just follow the instructions for the meat of the project. For the ball joints,  TRW is one of the better companies for suspension components and the price sounds about right. I would definitely recommend using pickle forks as opposed to beating the tar out of them. You will need two sizes of pickle forks: the smaller size for the outer tie rod ends and the larger size for the ball joints themselves. Also you will need a coil spring compressor. You should be able to sign out all of these tools at your local Auto Zone or Advance Auto??? I just bought a set of pickle forks because they are pretty cheap and I use them all the time as they also make great pry bars etc.

Also, when it comes time to seperate the ball joints, do this step before you compress the coil springs: Remove the cotter pins from the upper and lower ball joint. Loosen the castellated nut on the ball joint stud until it is even with the end of the threads but DO NOT REMOVE IT. Insert the pickle fork in between the ball joint and spindle and start smacking it with a good size hammer. Because the coil spring is still in place it will help you get the ball joints unseated easier. After 4 or 5 good hits on the pickle fork the ball joint should "pop" and it will be held in place by castellated nut that you loosened earlier. Repeat on the other ball joint and then remove the coil spring. The stock uppers are riveted in but are easily taken off with a grinder. Not so easy with a chisel but certainly doable. The new upper ball joints simply bolt in and the hardware is included with the new ones. Unfortunately the lowers are pressed in and need to be removed and installed with a ball joint press kit. I also was able to sign this out from the local parts house (Advance Auto). It looks like a giant c-clamp with several different size cups. Hopefully there will be instructions included with the kit. You definitely cannot pound the lowers out or in with a hammer... trust me I tried!! Worst case secnario is you will have to remove the entire lower control arm and take it to a machine shop.

And yes you will certainly need a front end alignment after replacing ANY front end components.

Anyway, good luck and take your time. Plan on a whole weekend and you should be just fine.

[roundedline]

have you seen this:

www.73-87.com/7387garage/...ontend.htm

Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project

[Lt.Del]

Thanks for the tips.  I like the homemade tool mentioned in the website link from Chris:

Quote:I used a long 1/2" bolt and nut, washer.  The bolt needs to be threaded all the way up.  Stick the open end of the bolt down through the upper ball joint hole in the spindle.  Put the flat washer and then the nut onto the bolt.  Hold the end of the bolt onto the end of the lower ball joint stud and tighten the nut until it makes contact with the spindle.  With the floor jack under the lower control arm to hold it up level, remove the cotter pin from the ball joint nut and loosen the nut a few threads. Don't remove the nut all the way yet.  Now tighten the nut on the home made ball joint removal tool and while tightening use a 2 pound hammer to rap on the spindle right beside the ball joint.  Keep tightening the nut and rapping the spindle until it breaks loose.  Believe me, this will work.

Are you sure the coil spring will have to be removed (or compressed w/ a chain)?  some of the things I have read mentioned to keep the spring in, just use a jack to raise the lower arm.   I guess I will find out Friday.

 
Thanks again.  I'll keep ya posted.



 

SgtDel
aka "Andy"

www.delbridge.net

1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4

[Lt.Del]

SUCCESS!!!


That shop wanted $550 for this.  I did ithe right side in about 3.5 hours, mostly trying to get all the tools together and figure out what i was doing.  I did the left side in about 1.5 hours....had the tools right there and actuallly knew what i w as doing.

That truck's front end is tight now!!!  Going over bumps or turning....man, that thing is tight.

Alright Guys, here is my website for replacing upper and lower balljoints on my 79 Big 10.

You might get greasy just looking at this website.

Tell me what ya think!!

balljoints
 

SgtDel
aka "Andy"

www.delbridge.net

1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4

Edited by: SgtDel  at: 11/11/06 7:58 pm

[Pushrod]

Well done!

I was thinkin about this and remembered another tool that can be made to break the balljoints loose from the spindles.
Stuff needed:
1 right threaded bolt
1 left threaded bolt
1 turn buckle center piece about 3-4 inches long

Insert bolts in each end. Loosen balljoint castle nuts. Place tool between the upper and lower balljoints. Extend the bolts out to reach the balljoints and continue by turning the center so both bolts extend outward till each of the balljoints have broken loose.

This kinda tool would be used if your not replacing the balljoints and don't wanna damage the grease boots with a pickle fork.  

[Lt.Del]

When I was at the hardware store looking for a 1/2" bolt that was threaded all the way, I actually picked up a turn buckle and thought about using that....it makes perfect sense.

thanks for the compliment on the site.

SgtDel
aka "Andy"

www.delbridge.net

1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4

[doctrdoo]

Thank you SgtDel for making such a great and informative site and thank you to everyone who added tips and suggestions. i'm in the process of getting everything i'll need to replace all the front suspesion parts on my 85 c10.all this information will definitely help when i get ready to do this project soon.

[Lt.Del]

Glad I could help.  Just remember, safety first!  Use two jacks, one under the frame and one under the lower control arm. Keep that coil secure as well.  

SgtDel
aka "Andy"

www.delbridge.net

1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4

[joesgarage71]

I read most of the link that Chris posted, But it didn't tell you to "lower the truck to the ground before you tighten the bolts for the control arm bushings" Unless I'm missing something don't you want the weight of the truck on the tires before you tighten those bolts? The bushings will last longer.
Also I would add that you remind the alignment guy to make sure that steering wheel  is clocked right when driving straight down the road.
Steve

[Lt.Del]

Quote:you remind the alignment guy to make sure that steering wheel is clocked right

A good shop will automatically do this, but, it never hurts to be sure.  You certainly don't want the steering wheel at 2:00 position going straight down the interstate.

SgtDel
aka "Andy"

www.delbridge.net

1979 Big 10 383 stroker
1991 Blu 'Burb 3/4 ton 4x4

[Pushrod]

Quote:"lower the truck to the ground before you tighten the bolts for the control arm bushings"

Depends what bushings you use. Energy Suspensions control arm bushings don't require that but stock style rubbers do.