Review and pics -- Proform Valve Cover Hold-Downs with Wire Clips

[rich weyand]

My previous spark plug wire holders were dying.  They were put on by some PO, probably in 1998 when it was rebuilt, and we just moved them to the new motor, so they didn't owe us anything.  Also, I was getting a little seepage from under the front of the right side valve cover.  Full synthetic oil will leak out anywhere it is given a chance.  The valve covers were held on with the T-nut doo-dads with 3" pressure spreaders.

So I bought these.  They also come in red, blue, and chrome.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66292BKC/10002/-1?parentProductId=746299

These are .165" thick over the coating, so they are stamped out of 4mm steel.  Being that thick, they are very rigid.  The detents that push down on the valve cover stick down .115".  They paint/powdercoat is nicely done, high-gloss, without major orange peel or defect.  The wire clips are the press-in type, and look pretty sturdy.  They accepted my Taylor 8mm wires with no problem.  The clips are bolted to the unit from underneath.

Installation was straightforward.  No issues were encountered with the product interfering with plumbing or the like.  To get good routing of the wires around the headers, the plug wires counting out from the valve cover are 1-3-7-5 on one side and 2-4-8-6 on the other.  This allows the last two plug wires on each side to cross each other and get in there without danger of contacting the header tubes.

No idea whether these will keep the valve covers synth-tight or not yet.  I also have a can of an aviation product, TiteSeal (medium thickness) coming, with which I will seal the valve covers if it keeps being a problem.  TiteSeal does not harden, so you use it on the non-cemented side of the gasket.  I probably won't need it with these, and the gaskets in there are top-of-the-line.

I think these cleaned up the look quite a bit.  I got rid of those stainless trays and opened up the view of the engine, and I like it.

Before, Drivers side:



After, Drivers side:



Before, Passengers side:



After, Passengers side:

[LTZ C20]

Not too bad at all. Those headers are looking a little old, lol.

Sorry you don't have ac.

[Irish_Alley]

just cause somethings old doesnt mean it still cant do its job lol. a friend had a 80 camaro and traded it in for a 2014 camaro. i asked him why he said cause its 25 years old. i asked "how old are you?" you could see him thinking and then he said i see what you mean lol

[rich weyand]

The headers are fine.  It's a daily driver, so they get heated up enough to boil out all the water often enough that rust through is probably not a problem for a while.  When they do, well, a new set of Hooker 2453s is like $200.  Not a big deal.

A/C isn't a big deal either.  I don't mind hot weather, particularly with floor vents, wing vents, and the sliding double rear window, none of which is on anything modern.  I can't stand cold, though, so the leather buckets I put in are HEATED leather buckets.  And they warm up fast.

[LTZ C20]

Ok that's good. My headers are ceramic coated so I shouldn't have to worry about rust for awhile. I hate being cold too, my heater works great but so does the ac. I'm planning on doing a heated/ac seat swap from a 07-13 tahoe or suburban or truck, not anytime soon but one day I hope. Trade out my factory bench for some nice leather buckets with a center console. I will keep the old bench tho, put it in my room as a couch.

[Dan75k20]

Rich I am going to have to try your solution i started running valvoline vr1 synthetic and behold my valve covers leak!  Vr1 has zddp in it so i dont eat a cam lobe

[rich weyand]

You can't just pop them on.  Once the oil has a path, that path is there.  You have to pull them and clean everything all up, then replace them using the new hold downs. 

And Titeseal helps a lot, too.