help... Needing feedback on 4WD setup.

[ChevyDrivr]

i am completely new to building 4x4s, and i think i may be getting in over my head.  my plan was to buy a late 70's (preferably a 76) pickup, and put 8" of lift and 36" tires.  i have been looking at lots of forums and am seeing lots of talk about heavy axles, better gears, locking diffs, etc, and my head is starting to spin.  has anyone built a truck like this and can help me out with these things.  i think i have wrongly assumed that you can just buy the kit and tires, put it on the frame, and drive right out of the garage. any help is greatly appreciated.

justin

Edited by: roundedline at: 2/2/06 11:54 am

[roundedline]

Justin,
What is your intended purpose for the truck?

You can buy a truck and put a large lift on it.  Pre- 1980 1/2T trucks will have the D44 (or 10bolt) front and a 12bolt rear.  

Axles:  If you aren't planning on hammering down on it, the 36's will be ok.  If later your interest grows you can always upgrade to beefier axles.  Any 1973-1991 K series 20 and above will basically bolt into your truck.  Finding them for cheap however is another story.  D60 front and 14bolt or D60/70 rear is probably the ultimate if you are beating on the truck alot with huge tires

gears and diffs:  With that large a tire you will probably want get better gears.  The largest installed in 1/2T's were 4.10's.  That would be the minimum (in my opinion) for 36's.  Since diffs are connected to the gears, I included that here.  Typically the 12bolts had the option of limited slip diffs (posi) they are the Eaton style that can be rebuilt.  Most of the time, being that they are over 20 years old they need rebuilt.  limited slip or locking diffs are good in low traction situations.

I am sure that others will give their feedback also.

In a nut shell, you can do what you desire.  Your biggest shortcoming would be the gearing with those size tires.

Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project

[1976Scottsdale]

You will want to have at least 3.40 gears if you want to move at all.  I can run 3.07's with 35s' but my truck was a dog until I added a 2500 stall torque converter, for some reason that helped.  You will want a 12 bolt rear and if possible, a dana 44 front.  If you want a locker, you need to find factory 1973 rear axles and start there, my truck had this setup and it is called a "gov lock" anything over 15mph or hammered gas pedal and you have locked axles.  My front end is a posi dana 44.  That one had one hub unlock and kept going with the other.  I would use a 6" lift an 35's myself.  There will really not be that much difference.  I have even run 36's on 4" of lift, but that was a 4.56 geared mud truck.  Go with all spring lift if possible to minimalize axle wrapping or windup.  There are usually 8-12" springs being sold on ebay.  You will need a steering arm that is taller to make it work.

[ChevyDrivr]

the truck i am building will be a daily driver, but it will have its share of offroad time too.   i need to be able to drive it about 3 hours from home to school two or 3 times a year, so im figuring i should put in better gears.  would 4.30s work, or should i look into something higher?

[1976Scottsdale]

Yes, 4.30's will work, if that is what you meant to say.  I have never seen a set with that ratio except on a ford, but it would work.  I have also owned, as Roundedline said, a set of 14 bolt rear and Dana 60 front axles.  They are on my list of things to buy back.  In retrospect, I completely agree with roundedline on gears.  You will want at least 4.10 gears.  With 36's, that will still keep your RPM's and power in a good area.  My dad runs 4.10 lockers and a 2000rpm stall with 33's and he runs around 3200 rpm's at 60MPH.  Your 36's will lower that a bit.

[Gutter Runner]

I would recommend going with a smaller lift than 8". I would say 6" max, especially if you are going to be using this truck as a DD. The truck I am building right now is a 76 Chev.I put a 82 body on it and  4" of lift in it before and was running 35" BFG M/T tires. I had to do a slight amount of fender trimming to clear the tires at full stuff. I had the Dana 44 front, 12bolt rear axles with 4.10 gears. You do not want to go with any higher(lower number) gears than this, IMHO. Here is a pic of my truck as it sat with the 4" lift.


Now I am installing a 8" lift, swapping my 1/2 ton axles for 1 ton CUCV axles and running 39.5 Super Swamper TSL's. I will need to do more fender trimming to make these tires fit, but it is not a huge amount. One thing to remember is the higher you lift it the more its going to cost you. 8" of lift for your truck will require longer brake lines and also lengthening your driveshafts. I did not have to lengthen my shafts because I went to the bigger axles. You would also need the drop pitman arm and raised steering arm. Here is a pic with the rear lift in. I am 6'1 and the top of the box comes up to my eyebrows

[Lt.Del]

I love your step to get up in that skyscraper. Cinderblock and wood....do you take that with you everywhere???  How about a parachute to get out?

SgtDel

[Gutter Runner]

  Thats what I had to set the jackstands on to swap in the 14FF rear end. The parachute stows neatly behind the seat though    

Edited by: Gutter Runner at: 2/21/06 11:03 am

[roundedline]

Looking Good Gutter.

Chris Lucas
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
www.captkaoscustoms.com
Project Su
Jimmy 2WD Project

[Gutter Runner]

Thanks....
Maybe I'll post a build - up thread on my project. I have lots of photos. I should have it about done this week. Just have the front driveshaft to put on, and the rotors and drums are in getting turned. Wont be long now