1975 Jimmy Timeline

[Mike Phillips]

1975 Jimmy Timeline

This is going to be kind of hacked up but I'm going to try to copy and paste all the posts I've made on this truck with pictures to this thread in more or less the order I posted them according to my posting history.


 
First post was just before I won the eBay bid
 
Converting a 4 speed to an automatic
 
Hey thanks for all the great advice guys, this morning I didn't think I was going to need your advice but it looks like I do now.

eBay Item:  260202972438

Me = showcargarage

I'm so excited!


 
 
Here's the information I have from the eBay listing, Tranny and Transfercase info in BOLD

Vehicle Description  

 The last year of no smog required, fully convertible 1975 Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy.  Most of the major work has been done on this vehicle to make it an excellent daily driver and a great off-road truck.  I have spent that last two years building this truck into the vehicle that I could drive everyday and  still four wheel on the weekends.  Due to changes in my job and the fact that I now commute I have a new truck that I use everyday and need to sell or trade this one for a new project.  The truck has a new 4 inch lift with 33 inch tires(285/70/16).

It has a four speed transmission (SM465) with granny low and a near indestructable NP205 transfercase and 3/4 ton axles front and rear.

Rebuilt 350 motor with 5k miles.  $2000

3/4 ton front and rear differentials with 4:10 gears.  The front is a Dana 44 with flat top knuckles (perfect for cross-over steering) and the rear is a Corporate 14 bolt full floater.  $1500

New brakes front and rear.  Front brakes have new rotors, calipers, semi-metallic pads and steel braided brake lines.  The rear brakes are a disc conversion that has new rotors, calipers, semi-metallic pads and steel braided brake lines.  It does not have a parking brake due to the disc brake conversion.  $650

New master cylinder  $50

New 4 core radiator  $250

New Pro Comp 4inch Suspension lift with new Shocks and Steering Stabilizer  $500

New Doug Thorley headers and Flowmaster mufflers with dual exhaust.  $550

New front fenders and inner fenderwells.  $350

New headlight buckets and rear tail-light lenses.  $75

New carpet. Dynamat was laid down under the front half of the interior before the carpet was replaced.  $450

New 200 watt CD/MP3 stereo.  Jensen CD player with flip-down face and holder/cable for iPod.  New 6x9 speaker in custom speaker/storage boxes.  $350

New Paint.  The bodywork and paint are 3 months old.  $2000

The fiberglass top was removed during the paint and bodywork to have the seams refiberglassed (this is where these tops usually crack) before it was repainted inside and out with Marine gloss white boat paint made to stand up to water and the weather.  New weatherstripping in the top.  Almost all the weatherstripping was replaced in the top before it was remounted on the newly painted body.  $750

The inside of the tub and the lower portion of the exterior and inside of the doors have been rhinolined before paint.  $300

The rims are Mickey Thompson Classics 16x9.75 with 285/70/16 BFG All Terrain tires.  The tires have about 5 thousand miles left on them.  I was going to eventually go up to 35s because it would suit the truck better.  

The front windshield needs to be replaced due to 2 cracks at the edges.  The speedometer only works sometimes (and usually incorrect).  I don't know if it is the speedo or the gear in the trans.  Another instrument cluster comes with the truck.  In addition to a tilt steering column that I had planned to put in the truck.

I know that there are probably numerous other new parts on the truck that I am forgetting.  I have spent the last two years rebuilding the truck and I do not have time to use it so it sits unless I can drive it once a week.  So it is time to let it go.  I have more than $10k in the truck, let alone the time to do most of the work.

Since this vehicle is over thirty years old it is being sold "AS IS" with no warranty written or implied.  If you have questions concerning the truck please ask.


Factory power windows and locks on both doors were added using factory equipment and wiring.  Both power windows work, the passenger window is a little slow.  The power locks need new motors to work correctly.  Included is rear window power motor and wiring that has not been installed yet.

Also included is another Dana 44 front differential with factory 4:10 gears.  This is outer case, gears, and axles.  It does not have the spindles.  I have it as a spare for the axle in the truck.

TRADES:  I am willing to take a 1950's, 60's, or 70's car in trade for the truck.  I am open to a partial trade + cash towards the purchase of the vehicle.  The trade needs to be registered, with a clear title.  Please send full description and photos.  Buyer responsible for transportation of trade vehicle and purchased truck.  However, I am open to discussion on this.
 
 
***Update***

Have located a 700R4 transmission with the factory stock mated Transfercase from a 1986 Blazer for $400.00 with th torque converter, this was taken out of a good running truck a friend of mine bought for a parts truck for his Blazer.
 
 
Quote from: VileZambonie on January 21, 2008, 08:45:35 PM
If you're going to be using it as a daily driver the 700R4/208 is the best choice. You could probably buy a parts truck with that driveline dirt cheap giving you everythign you need.


***Update***

Okay, I've decided to go with the 700R4 out of the 1986 Chevrolet Blazer.  The mechanic, Fernando, that owns it told me he called his Transmission guy and asked him some questions and his transmission guy told him the 700R4 will bolt up the the PN205 already in my truck.  From what I've been reading that doesn't sound correct and I told Fernado that he said he couldn't confirm that was accurate or not.

Maybe someone here can verify?

If possible I would like to go with that option, if not then we're going to install the 700R4/PN208 out of the 86 Blazer into my 1975 Blazer.  He has everything left over from the Blazer at his shop.

Sorry for all the newbie questions, just trying to do this right the first time and get this Jimmy configured so I can drive it.  By the way, I keep forgetting, it's not a Blazer, it's GMC Jimmy.
 
Hey everyone,

I need to get a TV Cable Kit for my 700R4 tranny going into my 1975 GMC Jimmy.

Trying to identify my Carburetor, here's a picture, I'm going to try to find some part numbers on it.




Bowtie Overdrives is about 7 miles from my house, they make the TV Cable system I'm going to need to get this transmission hooked up and working to my engine.

http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

Anyone that's been here and done this is welcome to share any insights they may have on this project.

Thanks,

Mike

Garage Project - 1975 GMC Jimmy - R&R Transmission & Transfercase
 

 
 
We bought this knowing we would have to remove the 4-speed manual transmission and replace it with an automatic and part of the process will be to remove the original steering column and replace it with a steering column that came in a Jimmy with an automatic so we'll have the tranny shifter on the column.
 
Here's before...

 

 
 
Removing the Clutch Pedal as it's no longer needed....

 
 
Clutch Pedal Gone...
 

 
 
 
And here's where it's at tonight...

 
 
 
The Jimmy not only came with a auto-shifting steering column for the swap but also with a nice set of late model gages to replace the old and worn out gages in the truck right now.
 
Before - Current gages

 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
One little crack in the plastic cover

 
 
Process - PlastX Applied by Hand

 

 
 
After

 
 
 
 
 
The 4-speed transmission and transfercase are now out of the Jimmy and the 700R4 going in has been rebuilt, upgraded with all the go-fast goodies and a shift kit too. Dana Sniff here in Irvine tricked it out for us and replaced all the wimpy internals with the best-of-the-best components for solid shifting and best performance.
 
Out with the old technology and worn out parts...

 
 
 
 
 
Using an ATV Jack to remove the transmission and transfercase.

 
 
Using the BB Method to get the transfercase and tranny off the ATV Jack after it's far enough away from the clutch/flywheel and the shifter has cleared the hump in the floor pan.
 

 

 
 
 
Plenty of room for working under the truck...

 
 

 
 
 
That's as far as we could get before it became dark outside...
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
R&R Steering Column and Dash Gages


As a part of removing the 4-speed manual transmission and replacing it with a 700R4 automatic transmission, I need to replace the steering column with a steering column that will work with an automatic transmission.

The Jimmy I bought included a steering column with the Tilt Steering option as well as the Automatic Shifter option, below are some picture.  The truck also came with a set of Dash Gages that are in better physical condition than the set currently in the truck.

So while I have the truck dismantled as far as I do at this pint, (4-speed and transfercase is out of the truck, interior is stripped of seats and transmission hump), I figured it was the best time to swap out the original steering column with the extra column that came with the truck and remove the tired looking gages with the spare set that came with the truck.

As we being this project, does anyone on this forum that has "Been there and done that" have any tips, suggestions or feedback?


Thanks ahead of time....


Pictures



























Here's where I'm at now...

I have the original column out, there are some differences, see the pictures below... the extra one that came with the Jimmy doesn't have as many electrical plugs on it as the original?

Plus, the electrical plug on the column has different prongs inside it than the one that come with mine.

Is there anyway to adapt the Automatic shifter column to my dash?


















 
 
Quote from: VileZambonie on February 17, 2008, 04:50:00 PM
Mike, make sure you remember to remove the pilot bearing/bushing from the back of the crankshaft.


Okay, used a  "Blind Hole Puller" to remove the Pilot Bearing, took to steps using a smaller puller followed by a larger puller.  I can see some kind of ridge or lip inside the opening, is this part of the crankshaft casting or some parts of the pilot bearing still stuck in there?

Here's a pic...


 
 
 
Quote from: HAULIN IT on January 22, 2008, 12:01:32 PM
Mike, I did this swap several times.



Hi Lorne,

Thanks for you suggestions on my swap, Here's where I'm at... the 700R4 has been completely rebuilt and is ready to bolt in, I'm waiting for some flywheel bolts to arrive from NAPA to bolt the new flywheel to the back of the crankshaft first.

After the transmission is bolted in and secure I'll be almost ready to bold the NP208 Transfercase up to it, this is the transfercase that came with the transmission out of a 1985 Blazer 4x4

I have both crossmembers, the original one that came with my 1975 Blazer (which had a 4-speed and NP205 transfercase), and the crossmember that came out of the 1985 Blazer that went with the 700R4/NP208.

From your experience, (and please, anyone else feel free to add your 2-cents), which crossmember should I use/modify to work in my 1975 Blazer.

They are both very different, here's a picture, the top crossmember is out of my 1975 Jimmy, (bolted to the NP205), and the crossmember in the bottom of the picture is the crossmember that came with the NP208 out of the 1985 Blazer.




Also, does anyone have a part number I can use to order the below gasket which fits between the NP208 Transfercase and the adapter?  I removed the adapter to replace the input seal and while I could make a gasket to replace the old one, I would rather buy one that is ready to go.





Thanks ahead of time for everyone's help... need to get this Jimmy back on the road.

Mike
 

[Mike Phillips]

continued...


 
Suspension Upgrade for Taller Tires

The end goal for this Blazer is a set of 44" Super Swamper's or Boggers, haven't decided yet, but I'm not ready to do a super lift on the Blazer just yet so I want to add some taller tires using the suspension lift I already have and/or I can do some modifications/upgrades as long as they are within budget for right now which isn't much for the suspension segment of this truck at this time.

Truck came with a 4" Pro Comp Lift, below are some pictures of the the way the Jimmy is currently sitting.  Have access to a number of sets of larger tires including some Super Swamper 36", 38" and even some 42" tires.  Don't have the tires close enough to trial fit them so thought I would see if anyone here could offers some insight as to what will fit from their experience and what I have to work with and would be open to suggestions as to how I could lift it a little more if that's what's needed for one of the above tire sizes.

Front Suspension - Current Wheels and Tires are Mickey Thompson Classics 16x9.75 with 285/70/16 BFG All Terrain tires.



Driver's Front


Passenger Front



Front Springs



Steering Arm




Rear Suspension



Driver's Rear



Passenger's Rear


Slip Yoke/Driveline U-joints from a NP203 fit up to a NP208?

Okay, got the tranny and transfercase in, but I didn't get any drivelines or the slip yoke and/or associated parts with the the transfercase when I bought it.  There's a guy parting out a 1985 Blazer but it has a full-time front end, I'm guessing this means his transfercase is a NP203?

Will the slip yoke coming out of a NP203 work with my NP208?   And same question for the front driveline coming off the front output shaft?


How about the shifter and shifter linkage for the transfercase, does NP203 bolt up to NP208?


Here's an update...

First, I need a slip Yoke for the rear output shaft on the 700R4

Rear Output Shaft on a NP208


Then I need the component that attaches to the Front Output Yoke that will then connect to the U-joints on the front driveline.

Front shot


Underneath shot



Argh....


 
 
Even with the ATV Jack we still needed to raise the ATV Jack and we did this by whipping together a wood platform out of some 4" x 6"'s and an old piece of plywood and a few nails.



And we still had to two step it using the Motorcycle strap to suspend and hold the transmission at the end of it's lift while we lowered the ATV Jack and stacked some chunks of 2x6's for a few more inches of lift.



It actually was pretty painless and the transmission more or less slid right onto the dowel pins coming out of the back of the block.


 
 
Here's some shots of the process in case it helps someone else in the future.  This is an ATV Jack that we used for a Tranny Jack and then a Transfercase Jack, it worked really well actually.




After bolting the transmission to the back of the engine block, we used a motorcycle tie-down strap to encircle the transmission and then we suspended it using the handle to the ATV jack braced over the top of two floor jacks.  Worked pretty well and allowed us to remove the ATV Jack to move on to lifting the transfercase to the transmission.

You can also see my friend Steve giving the Thumbs-up through the opening in the floor.



From the bottom looking up...




 
 
 
 
 
 

Here's an update...

First, I need a slip Yoke for the rear output shaft on the 700R4

Rear Output Shaft on a NP208



Then I need the component that attaches to the Front Output Yoke that will then connect to the U-joints on the front driveline.

Front shot


Underneath shot
http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/NP208FrontOutputYoke02.jpg


I have the front driveline and components from the original 4-Speed/NP205 Transfercase that came out of the truck but it doesn't look like any of these components are compatible with the NP208 Front Output shaft.






The top driveline is the original rear driveline out of the truck, will need to get the new Yoke mated to this one.  The lower drive shaft is supposed to be a front driveline out of the 1985 Blazer the transfercase and transmission came out of.




Will be checking with a truck wrecking yard and our local Pick & Pull on Wednesday for a yoke and the components I need for the front driveline as well as eBay and Craigslist.
 
Sure looks wimpy - crossmember mount that holds both the tranny and tcase

Is this all that's supposed to hold the transmission and transfercase in place?






To me it looks like the transfercase is just left hanging on the end of the tranny by 4 bolts with all the weight and pressure on the case where the 4 bolts go into the transmission to tcase adapter.

Just doesn't look very strong at all.  Seems like there should be a tranny crossmember and a tcase crossmember for strength and rigidity.


 
Sure looks wimpy part II

This stabilizer bar looks like an GM Afterthought?





One end bolts to these two bolts



And the other end bolts to?

A:  A bracket I fabricate and then either weld to the frame or bolt to the frame?
B:  A bracket I need to locate on a wrecked Blazer and remove for my Blazer?

How do you guys handle this Micky Mouse stabilizer bar when installing newer running gear to an older truck?


Here's the tilt steering column from out of a 1985 GM Blazer,




It has a Barry Grant steering wheel and wheel kit on it.




What is this wire coming out of the column?  Is it a factory wire or does it have something to do with the custom steering wheel like the horn?  (Haven't had time to take the steering wheel off to see where the wire goes, though someone might here might know?)



 
It's all bolted in and wired up.  Just have to hook up the shift linkage and that will have to wait until Sunday.

 
Just an update...

Started this thread on  January 20, 2008  and I'm happy to say that this Sunday she'll be ready to start up, cycle the air out of the transmission and top it off with tranny fluid and then take her for a test drive.

Big thanks to everyone that's been answering my questions in this thread and others.


 
 
 
 
Argh....

Was getting ready to start the engine and decided to give everything a good looking over and found the Flywheel bolts are too long and won't let the engine turn over.




If it did turn over and tried to start it looks like the ends of the bolts would tear up the back of the engine and rip the oil pan off.

I ordered these bolts through NAPA so I'm not sure why there's a clearance problem as they look to be standard flywheel to crankshaft bolts.  Don't think I can cut them while there in place so I'll have to unbolt everything and move the transmission and transfercase back far enough to unbolt the flywheel bolts and then probably cut them down and then re-install them.

Ugh....
 
 
I was able to get a hacksaw into the area and cut the ends off all the bolts.  The flywheel spins freely.  Now it's time to hook everything back up and get ready to try to start it and then test drive it.

One new issue... the wire from the previous manual 4-speed has an electrical plug-in with two prong spaces and the 700R4 has an electrical sensor or relay coming out of it with only one prong or contact.

Not sure how to wire this up?
 
 
 
Quote from: HAULIN IT on March 09, 2008, 09:23:30 PM
Mike, I think the two wire plug your referring to is for the back-up light switch on the manual transmission. The one wire one on the 700 is, as Vile said, the lock-up solenoid connector. You will need to add the wiring for your Blazer, since it wont have it being a stick shift. You can make up your own or get a kit for the lock-up from several aftermarket sources. Good Luck, sounds like your almost there. Lorne


My transmission guy, Dana Sniff, told me that I need to run an wire from "Ignition On" to the terminal on the transmission.

I'm taking the truck over to BowTies in about a half hour to let them perfectly adjust the TV Cable for me.

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/index.shtml

I need to find a wire to tie into for the lock-up solenoid.  (hate wiring things)

 
Quote from: 76_Scottsdale
If you're heading to Bowtie anyways I'd have them just hook up the TCC wiring for you. When I ordered my tranny from them the tranny already comes with different wiring inside the tranny and all you do is hook up the plug with an ignition hot running through a brake switch disconnect so it unlocks the converter when you put on the brakes. Bowtie should have everything you need if you're already there.


Yeperdoo... they set me up with a Cruise Control Brake Light Switch to replace the stock switch under the dash connected to the brake pedal.  They also set me up with a temperature sending unit and a gage for my dash, told me the tranny shouldn't be going over 180 degrees and if it does to add an extra tranny fluid cooler.

Steve at Bowtie adjusted my cable and then test drove my Jimmy and said it was working perfectly, so tonight after work I'm washing it and putting the interior back together and then it's going into service as my daily driver.

Success!
 
 
1975 GMC Jimmy 4x4 Full Convertible

It's alive!





Purchased back in January 22nd, 2008 and a little over 2 months later we've successfully converted her from a manual 4-speed with a NP205 transfercase to a 700R4 overdrive automatic transmission with a NP208 transfercase.  Today Steve over at Bowtie Overdrives dialed in the TV Cable for the most efficient shift points and she runs out real nice when you push the pedal to metal.

Now it's time for some detail work...  it has a brand new paint job but it feels like it has some dry spray all over everything including the glass, so it's going to get an extreme makeover in the paintwork department.


 

[Mike Phillips]

Took the top off last week and bolted in the rear roll bar, still looking for a front roll bar.  Here's a couple shots from today, a sunny day in the warm sunny high California Desert.






 
 
 
 
Purchased some 35" Boggers for my 1975 Jimmy and did a test fit and found I need about 3-4" more lift.  My truck came with a 4" Pro Comp Suspension lift and I'm wondering if there's a safe, low-buck way to get some more lift in the suspension as I don't want to do a body lift.

Here's a shot of of the clearance with the tires pointed straight ahead... turning the front wheels rams the tires into the lip of the fender.







Also, there's going to be a little more weight on the front end as I'm swapping out the small block and installing a big block.

Most of the 6" and 8" lift kits are over $1000.00 and that's not in the budget right at this time.  I could cut the fenders but would prefer not too...

Suggestions?

 
I like that first tip, the one where you have 2, 3, 4, even 5 guys over to help you... maybe next time... did this by myself...

Introducing my 1975 Jimmy to it's future engine...
 

 

Carefully took the hood off to preserver it and the hinges for the next guy...




Taught the engine who's the boss is with a few wrenches and some perspiration...




Parts car going to the next guy to recycle parts...



Tired... but 
 
 
 
Friend gave me a seasoned 9' Long board...  My son is now President of the Mojave Desert Surf Club



Looking for one more 9 footer to have duallys...
 
 
Custom Half Cab - 1975 GMC Jimmy

Finally got around to installing the Half Cab I bought about 2 years ago... this is just a temporary installation to science out the wall between the floor and the bottom of the back half of the cab.

I've never seen one of these on a truck before so I'm not sure how they were originally configured so I'm going to build a separater wall out of wood to seal up the cab and double as a speaker enclosure.  Also need to get some driver's and passenger's side window rubber seals as it didn't have any when I bought it.

After it's all scienced out and dialed-in, I'll remove it and make some fiberglass repairs to the best of my ability and then paint it either red or black, probably black.  Here's a few pictures...



















 
 
Trimming Fenders - 1975 GMC Jimmy 4x4

I know a few of you guys don't like huge tires on classic trucks and thus don't see the need to trim fenders, so I'll preface this by saying this is a Father/Son Hobby.  This is our "Weekend Toy" which doubles as my daily driver.  Some day I'll no longer be on earth so while I'm here with my son I want to have fun and for whatever reasons, I ended up in life enjoying Monster Trucks and Drag Boats.

So with that said, in the near future, we're going to install some 44" Super Swampers, when we do this we would need to trim the fenders for clearance.  Before we move up to 44" tall tires we're installing the 35" Boggers we already own and we didn't want to install a body lift, at least not at this time, and we're not ready to install a new suspension lift system, so in order to install the 35" Boggers we needed to trim the fenders for clearance.

I did some searching on this forum and another forum on 4-Wheel Drives and after reading and looking at the pictures of how other guys have done this I turned the computer off, grabbed my rotary buffer and placed an abrasive cutting disc on it.  I removed the front fend and then I sized up the fenders by looking at where the inner fender well sheetmetal meets the outer fender skin and then to the best of my ability fired-up the rotary buffer and cut the fenders free-hand.

Afterwards I applied some touch-up paint to all the bare steel to prevent rust and then re-installed the front bumper.  Did this on a Friday and then my son and I went 4-Wheeling on Saturday.

Here's some before and after pictures of the cuts just to maybe help someone else see where I made my cuts.  This is certainly no endorsement to cut yours where I cut mine, but I found it hard to find really good pictures by other guys showing where they made their cuts; so these are just to give anyone considering trimming their fenders a general idea of where I cut mine.

Before





After


I did a better job on the passenger's side



Rear Fenders - No cut at this time



We trimmed the fenders on a Friday and on Saturday we went on our first 4x4 Trek

trimming the fenders  so the 35" Boggers would fit with plenty of travel clearance while travelling over rough terrain, my son Rand and I took our 1975 GMC Jimmy 4x4 on her maiden voyage to Johnson Valley Dry Lake Beds to test her out.  We bought this truck just about 1 year ago as a Father/Son project truck and weekend toy as well as boat puller.

Here's our first post on 73-87ChevyTrucks.com for this project
Time Stamp:  January 20, 2008, 10:44:27 PM
Thread: <A href="http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=6977"" target=_blank>Converting a 4 speed to an automatic


Since purchasing the truck off eBay it's underwent a number of changes and there are a few more to go, for example we're going to install a 454 Big Block Chevy starting sometime in March or April of this year.  After that some rollbar and rollcage work on the interior, a new hood, some better seats, a suspension upgrade, probably an 8" lift kit with new front and rear springs, a shackle flip and then a new stereo system and CB radio with a PA Speaker, (Son wants the PA Speaker)

We would like to thank everyone on this forum for all their help in answering all the multitude of questions we've posted and seeing us through to the success we've experienced so far.

Thank you!


Without futher ado....

Eat my dust...
This is what it looked like following us in on the State Park dirt road. 



Johnson Valley Dry Lake Beds is about 15 miles out of a small desert town called Lucurne which is a small town on the way to Big Bear Lake in the high California Desert.







This is my son Rand





Real men, (and real boys),  don't use doors; they climb up the tread lugs on the tire and swing in by holding onto the rollbar



This is Daphne The Dark Overlord, Destroyer of Planets and Civilizations



This is me (Son took picture)



First Test - This trail going up this bluff is actually a lot steeper than it looks in the picture
(Rand opted to stay at the bottom of the hill and take pictures) 














Going back down



If you get too far right, chances are good you'll rollover





Safe and sound...



Parting Shots...




Summary
Didn't get any flat tires, didn't roll the truck and didn't break anything so all-and-all it was a great first 4-Wheeling experience!




Removed cover from under column and noticed the wiring harness, it's about an inch in diameter, it comes down the steering column and dissapears into the back of the fuse block and it looks like it's the primary system feeding into the fuse block.

That's where it starts to look complicated.  Not sure I'm ready to tear out the original fuse block and/or entire wiring harness and then try to install or patch in the one from the Suburban.

Dang... wanted cruise control in the Jimmy...


 
 
 
 
Big Block Conversion - 1975 Jimmy 4x4





It's been a few years since I've removed a small block and replaced it with a Big Block, so tips and suggestions and reminders are welcome.


Starting with a stock but great running 454 removed from a good running and driving 1986 Suburban.  From what other's have posted, this is one of the last models for a carburetor.  At this time all I'm going to do is clean-up the engine, install it and get the truck back on the road.  I'll do the simple things like full tune-up but for right now I want to keep the stock intake, carburetor and distributor (if it fits).  As for the stock exhaust manifolds I'm leaning towards removing them and replacing them with some quality headers.  Truck currently has 350 Small Block with Doug Thorley Headers with Flowmasters and sounds real good.

This year had the serpentine belt system and I'd rather convert it back to the simple v-belt pulley system.  All it's going to have is a water pump, power steering pump and alternator.

I'm using the 4-core radiator form the Suburban.

Start



Oven Cleaner



Tips?  Suggestions?  Things to remember?

[Mike Phillips]

454 Magnum Marine Engine

Picked up a 454 Magnum Marine Engine for my 1975 Jimmy.









Going into this...



It's basically this engine except that I've been told it's been bored out and has a more aggressive cam over original.  It's a Gen VI block and has the roller cam.

http://www.perfprotech.com/store/product/New-GM-Longblock-74L454-MAG-392hp-454380,24975.aspx


Need to get intake, carburetor, distributor, headers, water pump, etc.
 
Choosing a carburetor and intake for my 454 engine swap project


So far I have chosen,

Intake: Weiand Stealth 8018



Carburetor: Holley 0-4779C 750 Double Pumper



Any comments or suggestions?


Big 500 cubic inch Caddy engine fan vs stock Chevy fan vs electric fan


Talked to one of the guys at the local radiator shop that recently re-cored the radiator for my BMW Truck, which you can see below parked next to a dark gray BMW, (Looks like a Datsun truck but look at the hood carefully).




Anyway, they did a good job and seem to be quite knowledgeableabout their craft.  So I tell the guy I'm putting a big block Chevy in my old Jimmy and start talking about cooling option and he tells me that the fan that came on any of the 1970's era Cadillacs that came with the 500 Cubic Inch engines was designed to pull some gargantuan amount of air through the radiator and keep that big engine cool.  He said it should bolt up to my Chevy water pump.

Anyone ever hear of anything like this before?

Curious about his comments, while I was out in the local wrecking yard I spied a 1975 Cadillac with an intact 500 cubic inch engine including the fan, fan clutch, and shroud.  The wrecking yard wants about $30.00 bucks for those items.

Here's a picture taken with my iphone,




This radiator guy was pretty adamant that this fan system would pull more than enough air through the radiator to keep the engine cool.


Any comments?

Quote from: VileZambonie on June 07, 2009, 04:08:43 PM

I would stay away from that old fan as the clutch is probably shot or most likely going to be. The blades may crack due to age and rust especially once it starts wizzing along again after being at rest for how many years?

The BBC cooling system is plenty adequate for your truck. If you want additional cooling add a pusher fan behind the grill.


Too late...






Seems to fit right onto the Chevy water pump.



NAPA said they couldn't get me a new clutch so just for fun I'll check with the one of the classic Cadillac forum.  I've owned 5 - 1959 Cadillacs, 2- 1960 Cadillacs and even a 1949 Cadillac and it was always amazing what could be had for these old cars.

Checked out the radiator on this 1975 Cadillac Coupe deVille also and it's in physical good shape on the outside, don't know how to tell if it's any good on the inside.  It's 4" wider than my stock radiator, a 1/2" thicker but the same hight.


1975 Jimmy 454 Magnum Project

And it begins.  Need the 700R4 Transmission out before noon tomorrow so I can take it to Dana Sniff's Tranny Shop during a trip to Irvine to pick up my engine.  Dana rebuilt the tranny about a year and a half ago and it works perfectly but I figure while I'm swapping engines I want to take it in and let him inspect it and insure everything is in perfect condition.

I put the engine on CraigsList for the last 3 weeks or so and received lots of calls but no buyers. So I changed the oil and filter and then took her for one more small-block  ride to cycle the new oil and now it's time for a little metal surgery.




My home for the next few days... (Upstairs)



Wall to wall cardboard... (Downstairs)



I pick up the new motor tomorrow but won't be able to remove the small block till this coming Sunday.  This is going to be a fun project; not sure about the rest of you guys but after a hard days work I find it very relaxing to work on old-school Detroit Iron.  Nothing's that complicated and with about half a dozen standard wrenches you can take just about anything apart and then later put it back together again.


First things first, disconnect the battery...




Next, remove the front driveline (Be sure to chock the wheels first)


Then remove the rear driveline



To make re-assemble faster and more Bubba-Proof place nuts and bolts from specific components together in a zip-lock baggie and include a note as to where they go.
(I usually just tell myself I'll remember and then when I go to assemble everything I forget)




Try to keep everything organized and clean.



Bellhousing bolts can be a pain to get to on some cars but on this Jimmy they're actually pretty easy to get to with a couple extensions and a wobbly.





 
Transmission and T-case came out without a hitch, tranny is at the tranny shop t-case is just going to get cleaned up and re-installed.






Here's Black Beauty...



This is what the engine was at one time going into...



I'm guessing the guy that assembled this put it at top dead center on the firing stroke in preparation to install the distributor.   





Both sides of the block have this fitting?  Not sure what it is?



Never seen a freeze plug with this doohickey in it?



Timing Chain Cover, appears to be some kind of composite?



One piece rear seal, I'm guessing this is how it's supposed to look.

[Mike Phillips]

Removed the 350 small block on Sunday and cleaned the engine compartment.


































Picked up an Edelbrock Air Gap intake off of Craigslist for $150.00 and some Ansen valve covers off Craigslist for $100.00 and some Block Hugger Headers too.  Now it's starting to look like a motor.




Just won this carburetor on eBay for $200.00


Talked to my engine builder back in Oregon and he said it's not the best of the best but for my application and $200.00 it will work fine.

Next up we're going to prep the engine compartment for paint and then paint it so it can dry all day Thursday and Friday and then Saturday the motor is going in.



 
 
 
Quote from: Grover 1 on June 17, 2009, 04:16:55 AM
Just curious, you mentioned your engine builder is in Oregon.  I'm only 20 Miles from Portland could you let me know who the builder is?  Have you used him before?   
Thanks,
Mark


Tim Briggs is my engine builder in Oregon and he's one of the best.  He used to run a shop with Everett Hatch and most gear heads in Oregon have heard f "Hatch Engines".  He's building a new shop in Eastern Oregon so he's quite a ways from you and unless you're wanting to build a racing engine you can probably find a quality shop local for your needs.  I've known Tim since about 1980 and he's built 3-4 engines for me so he never cares if I call him and ask for tech advice.

***Update***

Engine compartment is painted and dry, came out very nice.  Engine is ready to go in tomorrow!

Quick question, do I need the Knock Sensors?  I'm not sure why I need them or even what they're for?

Was thinking about removing them and installing threaded plugs.

Suggestions?

 
 
 
Thanks eventhorizon66 and VileZambonie, I'll remove them today and pick up the correct plugs at Napa.

Just picked up my new-to-me ignition, it's not the best system for my application but the price was right.  I obtained a MSD 7AL-2 and a MSD Distributor, PN 85551

All I need to get now is the right coil for the above components and some wires.  I'm waiting for the MSD discussion forum to approve my account so I can post some questions to their forum.

Not sure which spark plug wires to order that work best for a 454 with block hugger headers?  Anyone been there and done that?  I have the heat shield from the 1986 Suburban 454, haven't tried to see if they'll work with the headers yet.

Well out to the garage to get back to the project.
 
 
 
She's in!

My Sony didn't want to work for some reason so this is the best I could get using the camera in my iphone.

This is my 10-year old son Rand who's a true "Car Guy" in the making, I had him assist me in the install because it's not every day you get to put a big block Chevy engine into something and he's actually a pretty good little wrench monkey.  That's his sidekick Daphne "The Dark Overlord and Destroyer of Planets" in the picture with him, she's not as innocent as she looks.






The intake manifold kept coming out all washed out in the pictures but you get the idea.






Tomorrow we'll install the 700R4 Transmission and NP208 Transfercase and then start buttoning her up for a test fire.
 
 
 
These Ansen valve covers fit but you have to carefully wiggle them a little to snugy them into place and that was without the gasket installed.   


 
 
All big block flexplates interchangeable?

In other words, can I use the flexplate off my 1986 454 from a 2-wheel drive Suburban on my Gen 6 454 engine?

It's seems to fit on like normal.



 
BBC Power Steering Pump Brackets - Location and installation

Having a hard time figuring out how to bolt the brackets onto the power steering pump and then the engine in the right fashion.

Can someone with a  BBC maybe take  a picture of their pump and brackets on their engine and post it for me to use as a guide?
 
How to remove Speedometer cable from behind the speedometer?

I need to replace my stock Speedometer cable from my Jimmy and replace it with one from a newer truck that fits/reaches the attachment point on a 700R4 transmission.

Do you have to remove the front gage bezel and get to it from the front?

Seems like I can't get my hand up behind the gages to unscrew the speedo cable?

 
 
 
I think I have it scienced out.  I wasn't sure where the spacer and/or spacers go for the brackets.  Figured out one space that fits onto the front of the pump between the pump housing and the bracket and then seemed like there was a need for another one on the backside where the open hook portion of the bracket bolts to the stud coming out the back.

Will take a picture and post it and you guys can maybe tell if I did it right.

Thanks!


 
Quote from: VileZambonie on June 25, 2009, 10:54:02 PM
No pilot bearing in there right? Flexplate is on the right way? Did you push the converter forward at all with a small prybar?


I installed the flexplate in the same manner the old one came off, that is there's a little lip that seats on the crankshaft hub and it's pointing towards the rearend.  There were two stickers on the flexplate one declaring it to be SFI certified, the other just a TCI sticker, these ended up pointing towards the block so you can't see them.

I'm pretty sure I installed the flexplate correctly.  Installing it the other way would make the pads where they meet the bolt holes on the torque converter further away instead closer.


 
I took a photo of the back of the engine before installing the flexplate and one after installing the flexplate, hang on and I'll upload them and post them to this thread.

I tried prying very lightly with a long screwdriver but the torque converter doesn't seem to want to move back or forward.



 
 
Quote from: SgtDel on June 25, 2009, 11:06:37 PM
did you try turning the converter several times while pushing in on converter into the trans?


Yes.

Tried pushing the torque converter back and also pulling it forward while spinning it and it didn't seem to move at all.

 
 
These were taken with my iphone, they are full size so what you see is what I got.






 
 
 
Quote from: SgtDel on June 25, 2009, 11:06:37 PM
trans flush w/ block?


Yes.

I installed it by myself using an ATV Jack and because the frontend is rolling on steel wheels with no tires the ATV jack had plenty of lifting height and it actually matched up and bolted up fairly easily.




I checked for binding and gently rocked and shifted the tranny around as it came against the block and there were no tranny to engine binding issues.


 
 
This engine was originally built for and going into  this boat.




The engine is a 454 Magnum Marine Engine, not sure if that would make it different than a car engine as far as the back of the crankshaft is concerned.

Here's a link to a similar engine.
http://www.perfprotech.com/store/product/New-GM-Longblock-74L454-MAG-392hp-454380,24975.aspx


Tomorrow, first thing in the morning I'll remove the transmission and t-case and then inspect everything.

 
 
 
Quote from: VileZambonie on June 26, 2009, 05:50:49 AM
You're sure the converter engaged the pump, stator support and turbine?


Pretty confident.  I rotated the torque converter while pushing it into the transmission and felt it go clunk as it slid in further and further till it bottomed out.



Quote from: VileZambonie on June 26, 2009, 05:50:49 AM
When you drop the trans see if the nub on the converter fits into the back of the crank and allows you to mount the converter to the flexplate.


That's the plan.  Going under the truck as soon as I finish this Rock Star.

 
 
 
Far shot:  Man climbing out from under an old Chevy truck as the sun starts to rise in the horizon.

Slow zoom-in as he begins to speak...


"I love the smell of transmission fluid in the morning"



 
 
Well I don't know what was going on with all the different components but after removing the transmission and transfercase I took some emory cloth and cleaned up the hole in the back of the crankshaft where the torque converter alignment hub rides, applied a little motor oil and then reassembled and everything seems to be lining up and meshing together now.

At least everything is clean and easy to work on.

Thanks for the help guys...


 
 
In the past, when installing a distributor in a new motor I usually install the distributor with rotor pointing towards #1 cylinder.  Since I'm going to be cutting and fitting the sparkplug wires from scratch it's probably all relative but thought I would ask to see if anyone has any better methodology?
 
 
Trying to figure out what these threaded holes are for and whether or not to plug them?

1. I'm guessing this is for an external oil cooler?


2. Not sure what these two holes are for?  Do I need to plug them?



3. I'm guessing this hole is for my oil pressure line?

[Mike Phillips]

Quote from: HAULIN IT on June 26, 2009, 03:12:03 PM
Mike, Once you sanded it a bit, where you able to spin the converter with the bell housing bolts tightened down. This is a simple thing to check that is sometimes overlooked & tells you if the converter is properly seated. Lorne


Yes.

I've reinstalled the transmission and transfercase and torqued everything down.  Everything appears to be fine now.

Moving on to oil pressure line, tranny lines, drivelines, shift linkage for tranny and tcase, etc.

Here's the list as of yesterday, the torque converter issue really slowed me down but that's behind me now.  (As I cross my fingers)





Will update in a few hours as I start bolting more things on.



 
Having a hard time finding the 1/8th pipe thread hole for my oil line to the oil gage.  Anyone with a Gen VI engine remember where they attached their oil pressure fitting?



This is actually a 3/8 coarse thread bolt hole for accessories.



Anyone running a MSD 7AL-2 with a HVC II Coil setup?

If so can you post a picture of how and where you mounted it in your engine compartment?


 
Anyone been there done that?

I bought a set of block hugger headers for a 454 off Craigslist for $65.00 and when I just now tried to install them I find they don't fit.  The passenger side header hits the motor mount and the frame and the driver's side hits the frame.

I need a set of budget headers that will 100% fit this application.

I'm not sure the first year a big block was available in the Jimmy/Blazer so this makes it a little hard to look up an application part number.

Any suggestions?



 
Here's where I ended up installing the coil and ig box.  





Should be okay there.


 
 
Quote from: 82k5diesel on June 27, 2009, 12:33:46 AM
Hedman headers make a set 68-81 pu/blazer 4wd bbc. List for 120 bucks in jegs catalog pn 500-69110.


Thanks!

Checked out the above headers on Jegs website and they offered up the Hooker, Jeg's brand and Dynomax equivelents which is a nice feature on any online store.

So while this thread is up and going, anyone have any experience or opinions on which of the 4 sets provide the best value and performance?

Hedman $153.99
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/69110/10002/-1


Jegs inhouse brand: $99.99
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30059/10002/-1


Hooker: $189.99
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker/520/2454/10002/-1



Dynomax:   $132.99
http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/85022/10002/-1



I need them yesterday.  


 
 
 
Called Jegs, with normal shipping the soonest I can get the headers is on Thursday, for about $40.00 they can get them to me on Wednesday.


 
 
Quote from: VileZambonie on June 26, 2009, 07:09:34 PM

The one you are pointing at will work fine. You can get a brass reducer at any auto parts store or decent hardware store. The one you circled in the last post is not an oil galley.


Done.

Picked up the brass reduce at NAPA and installed it into the hole just above the oil filter and then connected my oil pressure line.


Also picked up  the adapter/reducer to install the water  temperature gauge sensor into the driver's side head and installed it.

I plugged off these two holes with some plugs from the NAPA machine shop.





Quote from: VileZambonie on June 26, 2009, 07:09:34 PM
I would recommend against running a hard line to the gauge if that's what you are doing. In a matter of seconds you can ruin your engine should that line leak. (yes I've seen it happen) And they can also leak oil all over your dash (speaking from experience)


I understand the logic but I really like mechanical gauges.  For now the stock mechanical gauge is hooked up, will look into alternatives.
 
 
I put this together like shown in the pictures, bolted it onto the block and when looking down on the pulley it appears to be at an angle instead of  in-line with the other pulleys?

There was a empty space between the rear pump housing and the stud where it bolts to the bracket so I put a spacer between the back of the pump and the inner portion of the open hook portion of the rear bracket so when I tighten down the rear nut on the stud it just doesn't collapse the bracket.

Does this look right?  Or do I have the wrong BBC brackets or the wrong pump?  The pump is a reman from NAPA but it matches the Power Steering Pump I received with the brackets from Chris on this forum.

There's a spacer between the left hand bolt hole of the below bracket and the front of the pump.



I put a spacer between the back of the pump and the inner portion of the bracket to fill the empty space.





 
 
Thanks for the link to the Headman headers, they look like a good deal for my application.  Just ordered them, they'll be here on Thursday.




The Jeg's Tech guy looked at the foot notes and said that I must use the big block mounting hardware in order for them to fit?

I used the steel block mount from a 1986 Suburban that had a 454 in it but I didn't think to remove the frame stands out of the Suburban and see if they will fit my 1975 Jimmy.

Since I already have the motor into the Jimmy I guess I'll wait till Thursday to see if they fit, if they don't it looks like I'll have to pull the motor, swap out the frame stands and then see if they'll fit.


Anyone ever been down this road an already know the end of the story?

Ugh....

 
 
These Hedman headers come with a Ball & Socket style collector?  Never seen this before?  As long as this design works that's all that's important.




 
 
Here's the clearance I have to work with using the stock frame stands.




 
 
Quote from: Captkaos on June 29, 2009, 02:11:41 PM
That is correct, but I never had a spacer and mine was straight did you "eye" it or did you put a rope/string/belt around it?


Hi Chris,

I eyed it up and placed an oversize v-belt on it and then eyed that up.  It definitely looks crooked but I've unassembled everything and next will reassemble everything and install it again and then check it again.  I will also go get the right size v-belts for the power steering pump and alternator to check for sure.

The brackets I'm using are the brackets I bought off of eBay as they were all in brand new shape, painted and ready to bolt on.  I matched them up to the ones I received from you and they were identical in every way so I'm very confident that the brackets are good brackets, I just think that I have the wrong style pump even though I took the pump you sent me to NAPA and they guys got me the exact same pump only remanufactured and ready to run.

If after re-installing this bracket/pump system if it doesn't look aligned I'm either going to have to get a different pump or find a different set of brackets.  Whatever it takes to make it go as this project is running too long and it's now taking up my father/son time go camping and fishing.

So again, if anyone reading this has been down this road and knows of the right pump #number or a set of aftermarket brackets that will fit this standard Chevy power steering pump please feel free to post that information.


 
Local speed shop set me up with NGK BR6FS plugs.

I gapped them at .40 thousands for use with MSD 7AL

They're going in kind of hard?  Maybe due to some spray paint on threads on head when engine was  painted?

 
 
 
Don't want to do that, might get particles inside the cylinder head.

I put some oil on the threads of the plug and got them to start.  

Trying to figure out how to build my MSD wires now...


Ugh...

 
 
 
Help with spark plug wires - I need a video

I have the Super Conductor Wire Set 31239
 
This wire set is expensive enough that I don't want to make a mistake trying to custom fit and assemble these wires and a video would really help.  ($90.00)


My engine builder mechanic in Oregon says the best way is with the right wire pliers for crimping the ends and the little tool that comes in the kit usually requires 3 arms to use it and it still doesn't work very well.


Idea
I thought about buying a set of cheapie wires at Autozone and installing them to get the engine fired up until I can either get the right wire pliers or maybe even get someone who's built these types of wires to help me cut and fit them right the first time.


Any comments or suggestions for the cheapie wire set idea?


 
 
I got lucky...

Local guy, rebuilds carburetors and does "Custom Wiring" including spark plug wires.  Last week he rebuilt the Rochester Carburetor on my 1967 Starline Deville boat and while he was here he told me he does custom wiring as in perfectionist type stuff.  I called him and he'll be here tomorrow at 8:00am to help me cut, assemble and fit my wires.

I'll take some pictures of the process and finished work.


Yeah!

 
 
 
Quote from: eventhorizon66 on July 04, 2009, 04:39:58 PM
I had no problems assembling my set of Taylor wires with a plain wire stripper/crimper.  


I've cut and fit Accel wires multple times for my cars and my drag boat but these are just a tick more complicated and due to their cost and importance I'm going to let Cary help me.


 
 
***Update***

The Hedman headers arrived Thursday.

Had to use a 4" angle grinder to cut off a sliver of frame on the driver's side in order to get them to fit.  There on now but there wasn't much wiggle room.  I'll add a picture later.


 
 
Tight fit...




 
Quote from: eventhorizon66 on July 04, 2009, 05:12:06 PM
If there is paint on the threads, don't you think you are going to get paint shavings in the cylinder when you finally thread the plugs in?


Guess so...

 
 
 
Which holes to use for heater core cooling lines?

The angle between holes 5 and 1 is to sharp.




Would it be alright to connect 5 and 2?

3 will get a 90 degree fitting and go directly to the heater core.
4 will get a straight fitting and go to the heater core.  

Then put a plug in hole 1


 
 
Thanks VileZambonie

I'll check with NAPA about getting some brass fittings.  The steel ones I was testing was all the local speed shop had and I was trying to get parts while I was running errands on Friday.

This project is starting to drain me...


 
 
***Update***

Tomorrow is Fire Day, that is the day we test fire the engine.  Everything's done except lower and upper radiator hoses, install the battery and then test all the new wiring for the Holley electric fuel pump and the electric choke.

I don't have a oil dipstick that fits the receptacle on the 8-Quart Marine Oil pan.  I bought a Mr. Gasket dipstick because that's what I could find on the shelf but the tube doesn't fit correctly into the receptacle.  I need to find a way to cover the receptacle so oil can't get out and dirt can't get in until I can locate and purchase the correct dip stick.

Here's a few shots of the engine compartment where we left off at around 6:00pm today.






Had a few unexpected problems like the MSD Spark Plug wire kit ended up having the wrong spark plug boots for headers so we installed a set of Belden wires from NAPA until I can send this kit back to Jegs and hopefully get the right set as a replacement.

Local owner of the local speed shop sold me some NGK plugs that I assumed were the right plugs for my heads because I assumed as a vetran Drag Boat and Car racer he knew his business.  The counterman at NAPA said the threads were close but not correct for my heads and that's why they went in so tight.  In the future I'll stick to Tim Briggs in Oregon for parts recommendations as he's never been wrong in my almost 30 years of business with him.  (Not happy with the speed shop right now.)  

Crossing my fingers everything's right.  Should know about noonish if the engine and installation is ready to rock and roll or move on to plan B, which doesn't exist right now.


 
 
Having a hard time finding a oil dipstick tube that will work with this oil pan in my truck.

found this,

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=eBasicPower&Product_Code=MER818631A6&Category_Code=DIPSTICK



The picture shows the tube only, not the actual dipstick and it's $70.00!

Any Super Google Searching Sleuths with a little free time on their hands able to help me hunt down a solution?

I need to get back into the garage, can't sit here and surf the web but I need a dipstick and tube that will work on this Mercruiser 8-quart Marine Oil Pan.

Ugh and Ugh again...

 
 
 
Quote from: frogman68 on July 06, 2009, 03:37:36 PM
Try Napa. The one by me has Marine Books to order from

Or how about one of these?

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/c/DIPSTICK/Dipsticks


I'm heading to NAPA here shortly and I'll see if they can help.  For now I'm going to stick the Mr. Gasket, chrome automotive BBC dip stick and tube into the hole and use some high temp silicone to seal it to the oil pan receptacle.  Not a perfect match but my primary concern is to keep oil from sloshing out and to keep dirt from getting into the oil pain via the hole.

I change my oil often enough and because it's a brand new engine, dripping and burning oil shouldn't be a problem as far as oil loss goes.

Then when I can obtain the correct tube and dip stick I'll swap them.

Right now I'm trying to science out the lower and upper radiator hoses for the aluminum radiator, I'm trying to get as close to a perfect match as I can so as not to put any stress on the water necks coming off the aluminum radiator.

Then test some wiring I installed and then hopefull try to start the engine and time it as well as add the rest of the tranny fluid.

I honestly never thought it was going to take this long to get the engine in and running.  It's a very snug fit and that just tends to complicate everything.

Thanks for everyone's help...

[Mike Phillips]

***Breaking News!***


Right after the above post, a Marine Engine shop in San Diego returned my voice mail and they said they have lots of used engines and they think they have the correct tube and dip stick for my engine.  The parts guy is off until tomorrow but I should find out first thing tomorrow morning.

Then I'll take my 1974 BMW Truck down to San Diego and in a few hours I'll be able to keep the dirt out, keep the oil in and know when if the engine is ever low on oil.

Shazam!

Persistence and patience pays off...


 
 
Quote from: VileZambonie on July 06, 2009, 05:15:09 PM
Do you have a pic of where your dipstick tube enters? Is it like this?



If so this one will work http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALUMINUM-CHEVY-BB-ENGINE-OIL-DIPSTICK-CHROME-TUBE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZQ7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a30QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1262QQhashZitem4ce9edda77QQitemZ330342193783QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ebayphotohosting


The triangle patch welded to the side looks the same but the receptacle is flaired out like a funnel, not cylindrical like the one in the picture.  I'm hoping one of two SoCal boat shops I've contacted will be able to supply me with the correct tube and dip stick.  I should find this out tomorrow.

Thanks though for your time looking for a solution.





 
***Update***

Test fired the engine a little; that is we turned it over and it tried to run but we shut her down until tomorrow.  Waiting on two lower radiator hoses, hopefully one will fit.  The aluminum radiator I bought for the truck has a larger lower neck outlet than a stock radiator so the hoses in stock didn't fit.

2 problems discovered and fixed. 

The first problem was I hooked up the gas line to the fuel pump backwards.  This was a simple mistake and fixed by switching the lines.  The reason this happened was because the first time I scienced out the fuel system I had the custom bracket mounted in a different location and when located in that location the routing of the lines would have been correct.  When I changed the location I forgot to switch the in and out lines to the new position of the pump fittings and thus put them on wrong.  This is fixed and the carb now gets gas.

Second problem:  Somehow didn't see the rear oil pressure hole in the block so it was unplugged  and after turning the motor over a few times my son noticed oil pumping out of the engine and onto the ground.  This is now fixed with the right plug in the hole.


One more little problem, before installing the spark plugs I squirted some oil into each cylinder to make  sure the rings and cylinder walls were well lubricated.  This engine sat wrapped in plastic for 4 years and I wanted to insure the the cylinder walls were well lubricated before turning the motor over.  End result was hard to start and lots of smoke coming out of the headers as she tried to fire when turning the engine over.

We turned it over enough to blow-out most of the oil and as soon as she tried to run/idle I shut her down to wait till tomorrow when we get the radiator hose installed so we can  put water into the radiator/engine.

The good news is, so far, no other problems have surfaced.  The MSD system appears to be working, I appear to have installed the distributor correctly and the fact that when you put the key in the ignition and turn it the starter motor works without any problems and the motor turns over is a very good sign.

Confidence is high that I'll be test driving the Jimmy up and down the road in my neighborhood tomorrow.  Once we get to that point then it will be time to take her to an exhaust shop and have the exhaust system hooked up to the new headers. 

Fingers are crossed no other surprises show up.



 
 
Quote from: VileZambonie on July 06, 2009, 09:40:00 PM
The one shown is tapered... That's standard bbc oil pan dipstick. Usually I install the dipstick and bend the tube and bracket accordingly. Then I bolt it in and take it back out. A small bead of RTV and reinstall.


The Mr. Gasket BBC oil dip stick and tube resemble this one but it isn't fitting into the receptacle.  I'll try to bend it a little as the tube is straight but the path between the headers and the block isn't exactly  clear, straight path.

Thanks and will post what I find out.



 
 
***Success***

Well almost... 


Fired the engine up yesterday and so far so good.  Somehow the rear flange of the duel feed gas line for the carburetor was leaking gas onto the intake manifold so that's going to be replaced today.

Somehow missed plugging the hole in the back of the block for an oil line and had oil pumping out of the engine when we first started the engine so we plugged off that hole.

Ran the water temp sensor into the intake manifold and forgot to put a plug in the head where I originally was going to install the sensor so when we added water to the engine that hole had water flowing out of it.  Plugged.

After plugging all the leaks we added the tranny fluid to the transmission and topped off and cycled the new power steering pump.  Then we cycled the transmission by driving the truck backwards and forwards in the driveway selecting all the gears.

Next we had a local Tow Truck company tow the truck down to one of the local muffler shops to cut and fit the old exhaust system to the new Hedman headers.  The old exhaust system is Flowmaster mufflers and is in great shape but needed the Ball & Socket flanges welded on to mate to the Ball & Socket flanges on the headers. 

After that, I got to drive it for the first time!  When you push down on the throttle the truck wants to jump.  Nuff said. 

Just for fun I drove it to a friends shop to show the guys the results and that's where I discovered the fuel leak so I left it there until the local speed shop opens up and I can get the new duel feed gas line and then go install it.

While the truck was at my friend Fernando's shop Fernando started inspecting the install and since firing up the engine and then driving it about 10 city blocks the engine has already shifted as the new rubber motor mounts settled in and now the headers are hitting the frame in at least 2 places and maybe 3 places.

Fernando said he could do a little cutting here and there and in one place do a little bending and make it right.

Summit Tech Rep helped me to order the right MSD Spark Plug Wires and in so doing sent me a set with 45 degree boots which snugged right up against the headers so we installed Belden wires for now and hopefully Summit will send me the right boots so I can install the correct wires for this ignition system.

That's about it.  We're going to try to get everyting dialed-in enough today to hook up the boat and take off and go camping tomorrow morning at Big Bear Lake.  Just had a Bimini Top made for the boat so we don't get sunburned.




If everything is working good with the truck and boat at Big Bear then we're going to either take off for Lake Havasu or Oregon for a week for some more fishing and camping.  Probably will go to Lake Havasu as it's closer and this project used up too much of our time we planned to use to drive to Oregon and back.


It's been a ton of work with more surprises and setback than I ever imagined, but driving the truck yesterday and knowing the truck now has the power to pull my boat to Florida where I'm moving in about 2 weeks for a new career is comforting.  (And a ton a fun)


More pics and some videos shortly....



 
 
She's up and running.  Didn't take into consideration the effect the extra weight would have on the suspension so I need to upgrade the springs in some fashion in order to put the 35" Boggers back onto the front axles.

It's very fun to drive and sounds very nice too.  Without further ado,






Will install the grill tomorrow.





Won't mention having to replace a brakeline, cut the frame again in two places, re-do the gas lines to the carburetor and replace two brake caliper bolts.   

At this time the lock-up is getting power but it's not locking up.  Going to troubleshoot it tomorrow so I've been driving it around in 3rd gear.

Haven't really put my foot into it too much but the two times I have it's spun the rear tires.


A HUGE thank you to everyone on this forum that has helped me with this project.  Without your help it would have taken much, much longer.




 

[Mike Phillips]

Had timing checked and it was okay.  Will do a compression check when I get her home.
 
Quote from: Captkaos on August 04, 2009, 01:19:32 PM
Pull the valve cover off an see if you dropped a lobe?


I'm sitting in an air conditioned room waiting for my buddy toget here with my car trailer.  Will probably have a buddy of mine that's a transporter haul the truck to Florida for me and then I'll tear into it.

 
Quote from: andreajones021 on September 30, 2009, 09:47:50 AM
That's allegedly not a bad absorption and he's allegedly accurate that the OEM authority pulls a lot of air. Downside is it's just that abounding added acrimony on your BBC, and addition added horses.



I'm guessing this was a comment about the Cadillac fan in my Jimmy?

If so, I've been driving the Jimmy for going on 2 weeks now and everything's running great!

Since this isn't a race car I don't care if wastes a few horsepower, at least for now, one thing for sure, when you floor the throttle the truck first jumps and the takes off like a bat out of heck.  She's really fast!

The engine never goes over 180 degrees either.  I just had a Bikini Top made for her about a week ago and it looks great and keeps my seat dry here in Stuart, Florida, my new home.

Heres' a couple of recent pictures...






 
 
No compression in #8 cylinder - 454 Magnum

***Update***

More engine problems. 

As most of the regulars on this forum know I put a 454 Magnum Marine engine in a 1975 GMC Jimmy in June.  Bought it from a friend that had it rebuilt for a boat then junked out the boat and I bought the motor.  Long story short, after 500 miles 2 rocker arms failed on passenger side.  Had mechanic friend replace them and since then the  engine has ran great until about 3-4 weeks ago. 

Now engine is starting to running crappy again so I had a local reputable shop diagnose and they said there is no compression in  #8 cylinder.

Truck has about 1000 miles on engine.  Starts and runs okay, runs only mildly rough at idle and runs rougher over about 55 miles per hour.

I'll pull the valve passenger side valve cover tomorrow and do a visual inspection.  Anyone want to guess what the problem is?  Could it be another failed rocker arm?

Here's the engine,





Thanks,

Mike
 
 
All I know is that it's a rebuilt 454 Magnum engine.  I don't know and don't think it has a larger than stock camshaft.
 
 
Quote from: HAULIN IT
Mike, A couple questions. You mentioned 2 rockers going before...What 2 (same cylinder, 2 intakes, 2 exhausts) & what happened to them (pushrod push through the cup)?


It was one rocker on cylinder 3 and 5 I think.  I'll have to dig up the bill to confirm but it wasn't cylinder #8
In both cases I believe the pushrod pushed through the cup.  My mechanic and friend had to do some research as he'd never worked on this style of engine before and this led him to a performance Marine shop and the owner of the shop said these rocker arms for this engine were known to be weak and break.

Quote from: HAULIN IT
How much running time was on the engine when you got it?


Never been fired before.  I fired it up new.

Quote from: HAULIN IT
Not to pick on you & compared to the new problems, it's trivial...Paint that steering shaft! That's too nice of engine compartment to have that sticking out there. Keep us posted, Lorne     


I'm all over it man...
 
 
Oh yeah... the Jimmy flies the Jolly Roger and sports 2 - 9' Surfboards...


 
 
Quote from: VileZambonie on November 10, 2009, 11:33:57 PM
Doesn't jive with me....failed rocker arms? Hollow pushrods should fail first. Do a leak down test. Do you have rocker arm studs or bolts?


Here's the motor,
http://www.perfprotech.com/store/product/New-GM-Longblock-74L454-MAG-392hp-454380,24975.aspx



I'll remove the valve cover tomorrow after work and do a visual inspection, couldn't get to it tonight.

If it's another broken rocker arm then I'll be in the market for a some top quality roller rocker arms.


 
Quote from: HAULIN IT on November 11, 2009, 12:48:24 AM

I've seen this several times with stock type rockers on a couple different BBC's...A couple pushrods looked like they could allmost be re-used, just slight deforming around the oil hole & light scuffing on the sides. One just like what Mike is describing...One here & there shortly after a re-build, after several (3-4) the whole set was replaced & no more problems for years.
   


Valve covers will be coming off in about 8 hours and I'll update this thread with what I see, hope it's fixable without removing the head.

Any suggestions for a quality set of aftermarket rocker arms?


 
 
I removed the passenger side valve cover and found the problem... now I'm looking for a great set of roller rockers as well as the root cause of the problem.  The local NAPA store has a brand new one in stock I'm going to pick up tomorrow and then I'll baby the engine till I get the root cause of the problem figured out and the new rocker arms to install.

 













Ouch!

[Mike Phillips]

Quote from: SgtDel on November 11, 2009, 10:43:49 PM
Wow! that would do it.  Have any salvage yards near you?


Local NAPA store has a brand new on in stock.  I'll pick it up tomorrow and install it tomorrow night and baby the engine till I figure out the root cause.



 
 
***Update***

First, I was recommended to a local machine shop that works on a lot of marine engines.  I explained what happened to the owner of the shop and showed him the broken rocker arms and the first thing he said was, (after looking at my truck),

What kind of valve covers are you running?

I said, some tall Ansen aftermarket valve covers. 

He then said that was the problem, the factory engineered valve covers were designed to keep the rockers well lubricated and the tall valve covers I installed were reducing the proper oiling of the valve covers.

He told me to go to the local auto parts store an order a replacement rocker for a newer Gen VI 454 and put the stock valve covers back on.

I called Tim Briggs, one of the best engine builders I've ever known and he said what the shop owner said was probably true.  Tim's going to look into a high performance replacement option for my valve train because if the tall valve covers are the root cause then it's likely even though not all rockers have broken they may already be affected.  He'll make sure they'll fit under the stock valve covers.

I did order a single replacement rocker arm kit from Advanced Auto parts and also one from NAPA here in Stuart, Florida basing off a 1998 Chevy Suburban with a 454.  Keep in mind, I have know idea what this motor came out of but I do have a picture of what it was slated to go into and it could be it came out of this boat too, I just never received a concrete answer to that question.




Here's a shot of the stock valve covers, I still have them but they're in Apple Valley, California and I'm having them shipped to me.



Anyone agree with the shop owner's assessment that the root cause is the tall valve covers?

Anyone disagree?



 
 
Quote from: VileZambonie
Rotate the engine by hand and watch the actuation of the rocker arm. The torque spec for the rocker arm bolts is 40lb-ft



I'm going out of town for the weekend for some car guy stuff, when I get back I might have the following Saturday off and at that time I can probably get my hands dirty and get some work done.



Quote from: VileZambonie
As you can see there is plenty of oil on the rocker arms. I disagree that your valve covers are the problem. You didn't answer my previous questions.

Usually I'm pretty good about breaking posts up via the quote format and answering questions, it was along day yesterday so after my previous post I logged-off and hit the hay... sorry...


Quote from: VileZambonie
Please answer them. Lack of lubrication in these points would cause galling and I see very little from your pics.

Correct, everything looks clean and smooth.


Quote from: VileZambonie
Either your rocker arms were over tightened or you have a binding condition. You have a roller cam, but is it stock?
 
This is a non-adjustable rocker arm system, you torque the rocker arms down to 40lbs and all the play is adjusted by either grinding the valve stems or changing the push rod length.  At least that's what I've been told.  I've only worked on adjustable valve trains myself so this is new to me.  I actually wrote a how-to manual called,

"How to adjust the Chevrolet Valve Train using the EIOC method.

So I'm very aware of how to adjust the normal or old school style Chevrolet valve train both hydraulic and solid lifters.  This Gen VI engine is alien to me.


Quote from: VileZambonie
What valve springs are on there? Are the valve rotators installed? Keep in mind they will be UNDER the spring.
 

I bought this from a friend that was storing the motor and the boat for a friend that flaked-out and left the state.  He sold the boat to someone else and I bought the motor.  It was supposedly rebuilt in a SoCal engine shop with a good reputation but that's about all I know.  I'll send the link to this thread to Steve, the guy I bought the motor from but in the past I haven't got much more information about the engine than what I've already posted.  As such, I don't know what valve springs are on the engine, I don't know if the rotators are or were installed, the engine was wrapped in plastic and a new rebuild when I bought it.

I tool this photo when I was looking at the motor initially.  Steve is a reputable business man and a car guy like the rest of us.





Quote from: VileZambonie
Rotate the engine by hand and watch the actuation of the rocker arm. The torque spec for the rocker arm bolts is 40lb-ft



I'm going out of town for the weekend for some car guy stuff, when I get back I might have the following Saturday off and at that time I can probably get my hands dirty and get some work done.


Thanks for the follow-up, I appreciate your help.  I need to get this engine bullet-proof.


 
Hey everyone,

Thanks for all the ideas and questions, I'm in Dallas, Texas for the next few days so I can't get any picture or doing any wrenching till I get back home, as soon as I do I'll pull a couple other rocker arms off and get some good close-up pictures.

Mike
 
 
Just was rearended...


Sad but true but my 1975 Jimmy was just rearended...

Was sitting sitting on the road in front of my house waiting for oncoming traffic to pass so I could pull into my driveway and a young man in a 1996 Ford Truck slammed into the back of my Jimmy at I'll guess somewhere between 60 to 80 miles an hour.  He hit me like a missile so my guess is he was really driving fast.  I'll measure his skid marks tomorrow when it's light but they're pretty long.

He hit the rear passenger side of my truck.  The bed of my truck is shoved far enough forward that the passenger door is pushed into the front passenger fender and it won't open and the side of the bed is crumpled.  the front passenger side is lightly crumpled.

On the driver's side the rear tailgate is pushed forward into the bed and the driver's door is stuck shut but I think I can get it open in the daylight.  My guess is the whole bed is crumpled and bent and shoved forward.

I've owned 4 full convertible Blazer/Jimmy's and this was the nicest, most rust free truck out of all of them.

I honestly don't want to keep it because I don't think it will ever be "nice" again, I think it will always be bent even if they try to un-crumple it.

I'll have to get some estimates from body shops to fix it, I'm hoping they can total it and I can get my Insurance company to cover me for what I purchased it for or for what it will take to replace it.  I paid $6000.00 for it and actually still have the webpages from the eBay auction saved somewhere. 

Brand new 454 engine, I've only changed the oil 3 times since installing it.  Brand new rebuild 700R4 Transmission with shift kit etc.  3/4 ton running gear with disc brakes all the way around.

In a perfect world I'd like to keep the running gear and put it into a 1971 or 1972 Chevy 3/4 Ton 4x4 that's rust free.

It still runs and drives but I need to check out the gas tank, fuel lines and fuel pump in the daylight.  It has a Holley Fuel Pump and external fuel filter, the size of an oil filter mounted just in front of the gas tank.


1975 Jimmy 4x4 RIP
1975 - 2009










 

[Mike Phillips]

And that brings us full circle in a choppy kind of way...


 Just was rearended... 1975 Jimmy RIP


Next....