Engine Swap Questions

[ITSANSS]

Planning a new (rebuilt) engine for a 1985 Chevrolet Silverado.  Would like to get a list of things I will need and need to do.

Looks like the local Advance Auto Parts has the best deal on a rebuilt 350c.i. long block engine at $1,300 (305c.i. is $30 less.  Yes, not worth it in the least.)  Transmission appears to be a TH700R4 judging by the transmission oil pan and using the chart in the Technical section of this forum.  It shifts firm and I don't think it will need anything.  Maybe a fluid change to compliment the engine (and because it probably has never had one.)  Also, I'll probably pull the transmission with the engine to clean it up.  Engine has leaked oil pretty bad for a lot of years and EVERYTHING is covered is some form or fashion.

So, long block from Advance.

I figured on an Edelbrock Performer satin intake manifold.

Intake manifold gaskets.

Going to use the Quadrajet 4bbl. that has been rebuilt in the last few years.  I've had BAD luck with aftermarket carburetors and I will NOT buy a generic one out of the box that has to have jets and metering rods tweaked.  If it came on a blueprinted and/or dyno. tested engine, then fine, but Quadrajet for a factory replacement without a doubt.  If you say to get an aftermarket carburetor, then you owe me $200, no questions asked.

New water pump.

New chrome alternator.

New chrome air conditioning compressor.

Chrome steel pulleys for everything.

Chrome brackets.

New belts.

Engine mounts.

Transmission mounts?  Is there any rubber or anything that the cross-member and/or transmission sit on?  When shifting into reverse from park or reverse from drive or from park to drive (confused yet?) there is a clunk sound.  It's not coming from the transmission itself, but from the truck.  Is this normal or is there some loose stuff/missing rubber padding?

Fuel pump has been replaced within last couple of years, so that should be good after the oil is cleaned off of it.

Flowtech metallic ceramic exhaust headers.

Exhaust header gaskets.

Have a couple of 2.5" exhaust pipes that are bent for this truck (supposedly) that bolt to the headers.

Couple of glasspack mufflers.

New distributor cap and rotor.  Should I just get an entire new distributor?

New spark plugs.

New spark plug wires.

New chrome air cleaner.

K&N air filter.

New chrome (tall) valve covers.

Valve cover gaskets (unless ones that come on engine can be re-used, which I doubt).

New thermostat (probably 180 degree).

I would like to get a chrome thermostat housing, but if I have to get one that is made with the o-ring underneath I absolutely positively will not buy it.  Does anyone know where I can buy an old style housing that is just flat on the bottom even if it's not chrome?  I will NOT put myself through the heck of trying to make a $10 chrome one not leak.  Also, if you say there is a way to make one not leak, you owe me $100 no questions asked.  On second thought, $100 and 10 gallons of antifreeze.

New hoses (heater and stuff).

I think I'm going to wash the engine bay out real good and sand and paint the engine bay, inner fenders, and some of the underside of the hood (where insulation doesn't cover).  How much paint will that take?  A quart or two?

New hood insulation.

Do I need a new flywheel?

Starter should be fine if I can find it underneath all the oil.

Engine oil filter.

Engine oil.  What kind for breaking in?  Mobil 1 synthetic?  That's probably what I'll use on it regularly.  Change oil after it runs a while for first time?

New chrome oil dipstick.

New chrome transmission dipstick.

Plan on taking off the hood and radiator fan shroud for the swap, and, of course, all the accessories.  Am I going to have to take anything else off?  I really would like to take off as little as possible because I hate having to re-align body lines and panels and all.  Grill?  Radiator?  However, paint may force me to take off more.


Thanks, ya'll!!!!

[Captkaos]

The transmission takes a mount.  If it is clunking, check the mount or check the u-joints.
You can get a thermostat from just about anywhere.   But I have never had any luck with Chrome ones sealing unless you resurface the bottom of it flat.  I would rather paint a factory one..
Not sure on what you mean by do you need a new flywheel.

DO NOT break the motor in with synthetic!  You need some good oil or a zinc additive with non detergent oil  See this post: http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=13684.0

You need to remove the radiator unless you have done this often enough to be able to avoid it.  I would suggest removing it.

[Grim 82]

You can get a Felpro sbc gasket kit from your local parts store that will have all of the gaskets you need, if the long block doesn't come with gaskets. You will need them for the oil pan, timing cover, etc. I'd get a few cans of high temp engine paint while you're at it. Removing the hood, radiator, and shroud will suffice for the engine swap. Re-use your flex plate. Re-use your distibutor if it is good, unless you are looking for a higher performance piece, then now would be the time to swap it.

The transmission takes a mount.  If it is clunking, check the mount or check the u-joints.

Do this or you owe us $50.

[ITSANSS]

The transmission takes a mount.  If it is clunking, check the mount or check the u-joints.
You can get a thermostat from just about anywhere.   But I have never had any luck with Chrome ones sealing unless you resurface the bottom of it flat.  I would rather paint a factory one..
Not sure on what you mean by do you need a new flywheel.

DO NOT break the motor in with synthetic!  You need some good oil or a zinc additive with non detergent oil  See this post: http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=13684.0

You need to remove the radiator unless you have done this often enough to be able to avoid it.  I would suggest removing it.

Will take a look at the mount and u-joints as I suspect I'll be gettin' real friendly (in the worst way) with this pick-up anyhow.

The factory thermostat housing has extra stuff on it that isn't being used and it looks terrible.  Would like to get one that is simply a neck for the radiator hose and nothing else, chrome or not, but flat on bottom.  I have been to heck and back with those chrome ones with the o-ring on the bottom.  Tried dozens of different methods to make it not leak, a few different housings, and even a different intake manifold.  I will eat a box of Crystal Methamphetamine with milk and a spoon as if it were cereal before I buy another chrome o-ring style neck.

I phrased the flywheel question wrong.  There's more than likely nothing wrong with the one that's on the engine now, but since I will have everything apart and all, should I get a new one?  I don't think the new engine comes with one, but maybe it does.

Thanks for the break in engine oil link.  Advance and/or the engine company may recommend a certain kind or whatever, but if not then I am prepared.

Yeah, hood, shroud, and radiator sound like they are for sure coming out.

You can get a Felpro sbc gasket kit from your local parts store that will have all of the gaskets you need, if the long block doesn't come with gaskets. You will need them for the oil pan, timing cover, etc. I'd get a few cans of high temp engine paint while you're at it. Removing the hood, radiator, and shroud will suffice for the engine swap. Re-use your flex plate. Re-use your distibutor if it is good, unless you are looking for a higher performance piece, then now would be the time to swap it.

The transmission takes a mount.  If it is clunking, check the mount or check the u-joints.

Do this or you owe us $50.

Yeah, I can probably buy a gasket kit for the same price as just buying a few random gaskets.

The long block engine, I believe is ready to go other than an intake manifold, so I shouldn't need those other gaskets to get things started.  Same with the high-temp. paint, should be good to go, at least I hope.  I guess I will know for sure once I get it ordered and get it in person.

This pick-up is actually my sister's daily driver, so nothing high-performance is needed.  I know distributors can get kinda' pricey, especially considering I'm about to sink MORE money into this thing.  Haha  I could get it done on the cheap, but I want her to have a nice vehicle.  I spent a year and who knows how much money doing paint and body on it a few years ago.  Turned out not bad for my first (huge, HUGE) project.  The truck was a complete wreck, literally, but now gets quite a bit of attention.  I figure a nice engine bay, new engine, and some pretty chrome stuff will match the rest nicely.  :-)

I will certainly check those things to avoid paying ya'll $50.  :-D  I work outside doing highway maintenance so it doesn't take much for me to snap.  Leaking chrome o-ring thermostat housings, and seemingly un-tunable carburetors are two of the handful of things that drive me to the edge and in a big fast hurry.


Thanks so much for the information thus far!  I think I am going to wait until July to order everything.  Give myself (and ya'll!!) plenty of planning time.  :-)

[Grim 82]

If the flexplate and starter have been working fine for you, and if the teeth all look good, I would reuse it. I recently picked up a gasket kit to re-seal my motor and it was about $60. Individual gaskets will add up quick. The new motor may very well come with a gasket kit also.