Author Topic: compression  (Read 2597 times)

Offline PromiseKeeper

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compression
« on: July 14, 2011, 10:53:42 pm »
Hi guys,
My '80 c-10 has a stock 305. After months of working on the body etc, I started driving it some. I get blue smoke on startup, and at idle. Maybe I get it all the time, but can't see it when I'm moving? At any rate I want to start tracking it down. This truck sat for a couple of years before I bought it and I'm suspecting bad valve seals. I want to do a compression check to rule out rings, and wanted to ask here how much compression is good? Odometer shows 81,000 but cant say how reliable it is. It starts and runs great otherwise. Thanks!
Scott
1980 C-10 2WD short & wide. 305 auto.

Offline jaredts

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Re: compression
« Reply #1 on: July 15, 2011, 09:17:47 am »
Testers aren't calibrated very well to one another, so you don't generally look for a specific number.  You look for the cylinders to be within some percentage of each other (15% I think).  Once you find a low cylinder you have to find out why.  You can do a wet and dry compression test to indicate rings or not, but I don't find that very conclusive.  Its $40 at Harbor Freight, but a leakdown tester would be a better way to go.  Search the internet for "cylinder leakdown test" and you should find the procedure and how to determine where the problem is.

Offline PromiseKeeper

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Re: compression
« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2011, 01:39:57 pm »
thanks jaredts
Never used one and did some reading about the Harbor Freight one. Mixed reviews there on how it worked. Do you have to get each cylinder to a certain point with the valves in a certain position for it to work?
1980 C-10 2WD short & wide. 305 auto.

Offline PromiseKeeper

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Re: compression
« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2011, 01:53:14 pm »
just looked at the online manual for the tool. It sounds like a stethoscope tells you as much or more than the guages do during the test?
1980 C-10 2WD short & wide. 305 auto.

Offline jaredts

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Re: compression
« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2011, 02:19:20 pm »
A stethoscope?  That doesn't give you any of the information that a leakdown tester does.  You generally bring the cylinder in question to the top of the compression stroke and turn on the regulator on the tester.  Zero out the gage as well.  The gage tells you what percentage of the air pressure is leaking out and is graduated into low, medium, and high leakage.  To some extent you can learn that from a compression tester, but its not as cut and dry.  The real trick is learning where you are losing your compression.  While the tester is connected and the cylinder is full of air pressure listen at the exhaust.  If you hear air howling there then its leaking past the exhaust valve.  If you hear it at the dipstick tube its rings, carb. then intake valve, if there are bubbles in the radiator then its probably a head gasket, cracked head or block etc. leaking into a water jacket.  If you already know a cylinder is bad from a compression test then you might get away with just adapting an air hose or using the one from a compression tester to fill the cylinder with air and do the same listening and looking routine.  I bought the cheap HF one and it didn't steer me wrong.  I was skeptical about the results but it turned out to be right in my case (I had a cracked exhaust valve).  With just a wet/dry compression test I was leaning toward rings, but that was incorrect.

Offline PromiseKeeper

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Re: compression
« Reply #5 on: July 15, 2011, 10:02:29 pm »
OK, we're on the same page then. The article I read said to use some kind of "listening device." I was assuming they meant a stethoscope. You're saying that it's loud enough that you'd be able to hear it easily without anything?
1980 C-10 2WD short & wide. 305 auto.

Offline jaredts

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Re: compression
« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2011, 06:17:43 am »
Oh I see.  I've only done this a few times, but have not needed anything to help me hear.  If its bad enough its easily heard.