Author Topic: Replacing front wheel bearing, need front and rear?  (Read 6409 times)

Offline SUX2BU99

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Replacing front wheel bearing, need front and rear?
« on: April 03, 2014, 10:44:39 am »
Might be a dumb question but just thought I'd ask. I have a noisy wheel bearing on the front passenger side. I can see the grease melted out of it too, due to a hanging caliper. I'm replacing the calipers with new loaded ones, turning the rotors and replacing that bearing. I presume I need to replace the bearings on both sides of the rotor, as it's a 2-piece set?

I'll have to get the bearings out of the rotor. Best way to do that? Pry them out or?
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline dvdswan

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Re: Replacing front wheel bearing, need front and rear?
« Reply #1 on: April 03, 2014, 04:49:31 pm »
each hub has an inner and outer bearing, each bearing will have a race.  the bearings are different sizes, inners are larger and outers are smaller.  depending on the bearing maker it may or may not come with the race.  Timken bearings should come with the races. 

the inner bearing is held in place by the spindle seal.  the races can be hammered out using punches but its best too use a brass punch so it won't score the race seats.  install using a brass punch. 

you didn't say if its was 2wd or 4wd, but be sure to get your preload on the bearings set to specs and use a good quality grease.

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Replacing front wheel bearing, need front and rear?
« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2014, 11:50:47 pm »
Thanks. It's a 2wd. Maybe I'll get them to replace the bearings when I get the rotors turned.
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline bake74

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Re: Replacing front wheel bearing, need front and rear?
« Reply #3 on: April 07, 2014, 07:45:02 am »
      Use the manuals in the tech sections for the torque specs if you do not have a manual.
#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
  74 k10, 77k10    Tom

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Replacing front wheel bearing, need front and rear?
« Reply #4 on: April 10, 2014, 06:26:35 pm »
Great, thank you.

Also, when I get them turned, do I need to make sure to have the wheel bearings in place along with the washer and castle nut? I took the passenger rotor off last night and the outer bearing just fell out once I took the nut and washer off.
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.

Offline bake74

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Re: Replacing front wheel bearing, need front and rear?
« Reply #5 on: April 10, 2014, 09:00:21 pm »
Thanks. It's a 2wd. Maybe I'll get them to replace the bearings when I get the rotors turned.

     They can replace the race's, but the bearings just sit in there, you need to put them in as you are putting the whole assy. back on.
Great, thank you.

Also, when I get them turned, do I need to make sure to have the wheel bearings in place along with the washer and castle nut? I took the passenger rotor off last night and the outer bearing just fell out once I took the nut and washer off.

      I assume this means having the rotors turned ?  Do not put your new races in before they turn them, the bearings will need to come out but leave the old races in and clean up really good then have them turned.  Nobody likes to work on greasy stuff.   >:(
#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
  74 k10, 77k10    Tom

Offline SUX2BU99

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Re: Replacing front wheel bearing, need front and rear?
« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2014, 11:21:54 am »
Awesome, thanks for the reply. They were well-greased in there!
85 Chevy Silverado C10 short, wide, yellow, 2wd. Lowered, 60-over 350 with Dart Iron Eagle heads and Comp Cams XE268 cam, TH350 w/ shift kit, 3.40 Gov-lok 12 bolt.