I have an 86' K20 that I recently did an auto to SM465 swap (hydraulic clutch). Having driven it a few times now I have a couple bugs that need worked out. First things first.. I installed the used clutch fork that came with the bell housing to which the slave cylinder actuator rod has bored a hole through. It's only the tip that poked through so I still have enough clutch to to drive. However, I can only find 2nd gear when downshifting about half of the time (even if I double clutch), and when I try to double clutch I get a fairly heavy vibration (more specifically, when the truck is rolling and It's having trouble find second, when I release the pedal to try and double-clutch I get a moderately heavy vibration while coasting in neutral). I know for sure I need to replace the clutch fork before the rod punches all the way though but does my downshifting into 2nd troubles sound like it's being cause by the clutch fork or a bad synchro, or something else altogether? The other half of the time it slides right in, so I don't know what could be causing it to miss sometimes but not others. The other issue is that the clutch pack inside the bell housing heats up very quickly. I figured that out when I took it on about a 30min drive and a whistling noise began, and it was ridiculously hot when I got it home. Now I just toy around my neighborhood, and it still gets pretty hot only after a few minutes. My only thoughts on why a clutch would heat up like that up there is some slippage going on. After it's been driven for a few minutes too the clutch becomes super grabby, as in I try to pull into my garage and have to watch ramming the back wall because it lurches forward so hard no matter how slow I release the clutch. Any thoughts on why it would be slipping and what's making it so grabby after a few minutes of being driven? Sorry for the novel, this is my first manual trans/clutch install, so I'm new to this stuff!
1
