Questions about battery relocation

[team39763]

Thanks Lorne.  I really wasn't sure what I could get away with as far as holding down the battery.  I think I could make some kind of fixture and secure it to the bed brace in the rear.  I'll come up with an idea in the morning...LOL...my little peanut is fried from all the info and ideas I've come across the last few days.  Thanks for the help everybody.  I appreciate it.

[blast]

Yes Vile, The rule states "Anytime the battery is relocated, a kill switch must be added to SHUT THE ENGINE OFF & ALL electrical power to the car from the rear of the car able to be clearly seen by track personnel".
 This is one of the rules that has some gray things about it. A guy can drive up in a car that came with the battery in the trunk or worse, under the back seat & race without the kill switch & go real fast (something like 9.50) as long as he didn't move it. Move the battery to the trunk or the bed in our case, do a first class install (rubber hose protection, insulated clamps, ect.) & now you need a kill switch regardless of the speed. Especially with a truck, this seems kinda wrong to me. The battery is safer in the back & getting to it in a wreck would most likely prove to be easier than under the hood, but they make the rules. Lorne

I would imagine a stock vehicle setup with battery in back is somewhat safe, since the manufacturer probably did a nice job of securing the wiring.  Hopefully anyways.

I can certainly understand why they would want the cut-off switches on vehicles where the owner moved the battery, I've seen some shorted wiring for even just trunk mount stereo amplifiers that left quite the trail of destruction, through the whole vehicle practically. Wasn't pretty. 

[choptop]

A company I worked for had a 2000 CHevy 3500 crewcab service truck burn to the ground because they didnt install a fuse for the crane, and one day it shorted out, and caught the wiring under hood on fire, and went from there. All because they didnt install a $60 200 amp fuse. Truck was totalled by the insurance company.

[team39763]

I drew up a diagram of what I have in mind.  Only thing I don't have yet is the 8ga wire and fuses.  Does this look OK?

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f143/team39763/Emmittsbatterreloc.jpg
What does it mean to have the j bolts welded shut?  I've seen how they are supposed to go, but what are you supposed to weld?

[choptop]

Actually, you shouldnt need a 200 amp fuse for the alternator. Most likely you need closer to a 50 amp, depends on you alternator, plus with the sidtance you are running, it would be a good idea to fuse the 8 ga at the battery as well.

[choptop]

Here's what I use instead of fuses. It kinda cleans up everything if installed right.
http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail/M37/46374

I prefer the black one, but the smaller one is cheaper and works just as well. They have alot of other items you should look into as well. I buy a couple grand a year in parts from them, and am very happy with their service and products

[choptop]

rest looks good

[HAULIN IT]

I agree with Chop, you don't need a 200 on the 8ga wire, 100 would be fine. I also prefer the relays just like he posted. Myself, I would not want the big wire live all the time, but that's your choice. The way you have the picture will work & be legal though.
 The part about the J-hooks is just what it says. If you use them, you need to put them through the hole in whatever & bend the loop-part shut & weld it to the upright part so the loop part can't spread open when put under pressure (the battery trying to fly out) . Lorne

[choptop]

As far as sizing the breaker, it really depends on what size alternator you have. If the alternator is only a 35 amp, then go a 40 amp circuit breaker, if its a 60 amp alternator, go 65-70 amp. The circuit breaker isnt just to protect the wire, it is to protect the end devices as well, such as if the battery shorts out and causes the alternator to try to over amp, it will trip the breaker and save the alternator. Depending on the amperage of the alternator, 8 gauge wire could even be over kill. But for a run this long, over kill is good. Lorne is definately the goto guy on race specs, I am learning from this for when I start my race truck project. Just want to Thank you Lorne, for what you have taught me.

[team39763]

I thought my alternator was 105AMP, so I would need a 110-115 right?  I've been doing some reading and asking around and I'm not exactly sure what to do about the battery fuse.  I heard that the starter can[at times] pull all the juice the battery can give, which would pop that 300AMP fuse right?  A buddy said I probably shouldn't fuse the wire going to the starter at all.  I believe my Optima Red Top says something about 1000CA and 800CCA.
  LOL.  I'm an idiot...thanks for explaining that to me Lorne.  Hey what exactly can go wrong with my big wire being live all the time?  I don't have the money to buy one of the those Ford solenoids, so I'm kinda stuck doing it this way for now.  I have insulated clamps.  I plan to heat/shrink/wrap the connectors on it too.  I'm using rubber grommets to go through any sheetmetal.  What else can I do to make this safer?  Should I run the big wire through length of water hose to keep it insulated?

[choptop]

The continuos duty relays ( ford type) are only about $25. They make a loom that you can wrap around the cable for protectionthat is cheaper than a water hose, but if you an old hose and the ambition to split it, why not. It will work just as well. I am not sure on the alternator output. My 81  with the heavy duty alternator was only rated at 65 amps. Let me think a bit, and see what I can find. Hopefully we can get this sorted out without breaking you financially.

[team39763]

LOL. I think my wife is just about tired of me spending money on this truck and it still hasn't moved more than a few feet in the last few months.  I'm gonna need to start selling some parts to pay for this stuff soon.  I'm going to Uvalde in the morning, so I'll see what I can find and hopefully get this truck running again.  I plan to post up some new videos with all the improvements I've made since the last clips.

[HAULIN IT]

Team, I hate to sound like a "Father figure", however I like to help guys through their problems instead of them working harder, spending unneeded money or getting frustrated. A couple problems I see....If your wife is concerned about your spending, you need to be careful, just like anything else, this can lead to other bigger problems. Unfortunately not every guy can have a woman that is thrilled to get new sticky tires for Christmas Or ask when we are going to spend the $900 or so on a good torque converter, instead of whining about me spending $300 on one, but that doesn't make your wife wrong & maybe her concerns are justified. On the same lines, if you don't have the money to buy the relay...wait until you do. If the truck burns up or even just blows up the battery or melts the coating off of the 2ga. wire, that would cost more than the "correct" relay, Right?
 I realize most of us want more/better than we can afford (myself included) however, there has to be a logical "middle of the road" area that you (& your wife) can work in & still have fun.
 I have one more to add to Blast's & Chop's stories. I had a pick-up come in the shop years ago with one of those slide-in electric dump inserts. Short version....The control wire comming in the cab chaffed on the floor & well you can figure the rest. We did fix it (the owner got the battery unhooked in time) but the whole Left corner of the cab was melted, burned, ect. Plus the wiring, switch, ect. Unprotected big wires run around & through are a big concern to me.
 And I appreciate the Thank You's guys, but it's just part of what we do to make this the good site it is! Lorne   

[team39763]

I appreciate the help Lorne.  My wife's concern is that I may be spending unnecessarry money.  She likes to see results when I go spend $100 on something.  So far the battery relocation has cost us over $100 - $48 for the right wire+cutoff switch + $56 for the wrong wire + $20 in little stuff.  I don't even have the fuses/circuit breakers or 8ga yet.  I just need to be educated and know what I need[parts/money] before I go ask for money. 

[choptop]

The main reason for breakers and fuses is to protect damage due to human error. Run what you have, put it in the hose, and when you are routing it, pay attention, and think about any cenario where the cable could be cut, pinched rubbed through, or damaged in anyway. Once done, check these possible problem areas often. The thing is, this isnt a truck that you are driving down the highway on a regular basis, and all the world could fall apart at a moments notice. The truth is, if you have a short in the cable, or something, you will most likely be right there cloase to it, and just have to shutoff the disconnect switch. But, as long as you take the time to route the cable away from harm, put it in a hose, doubleup on hose around corners, and tie it up nicely, I doubt there will be a problem. We all seem to forget that the little things get expensive, and not all are required. It depends on the situation. I have just about everything you need other than a 300 amp fuse, to completely wire your truck because I do industrial electronics for a living. I am just not close enough to you to be any help. There are budget minded ways of wiring, we just have to stop and think outside the box. Remember, just route the cables away from harm, wire it i, and enjoy. Is it correct, well maybe not, but like I said, fuses are for human error protection. If the master switch is off when not in use, and you are normally around the truck to turn it off if needed, then you are set.