Author Topic: 1987 Chevy Silverado 4x4 - Leaking Gas out the top of the Gas Tank with Key On  (Read 29150 times)

Offline frotosride

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Based on the fact that it is on the actual frame I would say that it is most likely coming from the hoses either at the sending unit itself of the actual hoses themselves. It is not uncommon for someone to do such a nice build and overlook the items most needed. Right on the frame is a metal hold down and there isn't any protection for the hoses that pass through it. It is very possible for it to have rubbed a hole in a hose. Just a little FYI if you feel like it you can switch the hoses around on the switch to pump the full tank into the other one if you have dual tanks. Thought you said you did. Or you can take the outlet off of the  pump and put it into a bucket. then lowering the tank would be much easier.
"Beat it like a red-headed ford"
1987 v10 Silverado(LQ4), 87 R10,83 K20, 83 cucv 6.2 Detroit
2006 Boulevard M109R 109 cid,2019 M109R BOSS
2009 Jeep XK, (future LS Swap)
GSXR 750 engine awaiting go kart

Offline Captkaos

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Being a short bed, you will need to pull the bed to have the best access, Or you can drop the tank...

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=9294.0

Offline Mike Phillips

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Here's a follow-up...

Removed bed, removed gas tank, installed Super Hoops bracket for Super Hoop because gas tank was in the way.  Found the fuel lines were completely corroded and cracked and replaced these.  Put everything back together and took my truck to the local car show that night.  Started at 9:00am, finished at 5:00p.  Got a little sunburned...













My buddy Dave came by with Behemoth to see if I needed any help...





These fuel lines look original by the degree of breakdown in the rubber...










Sad to say, I didn't have time to clean up and detail anything, tank, frame, front of bed, back of cab.  I have co-workers working till 4:00pm and I had to hustle to be ready to take advantage of these guys to help me lift and replace the bed back onto the frame.  Had I done other things I would have been in a jam.  Now that I've done this and all the bolt threads are cleaned and oiled, it will be a lot easier to remove in the future for any future projects.

Thanks for all the help guys!


:)

Offline frotosride

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Glad you got her up and running...just proof that rubber doesn't last for ever. Good to have a helping pair of hands.
"Beat it like a red-headed ford"
1987 v10 Silverado(LQ4), 87 R10,83 K20, 83 cucv 6.2 Detroit
2006 Boulevard M109R 109 cid,2019 M109R BOSS
2009 Jeep XK, (future LS Swap)
GSXR 750 engine awaiting go kart

Offline Captkaos

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And E85 and Ethanol is going to do that to the inside eventually...

Offline frotosride

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And E85 and Ethanol is going to do that to the inside eventually...

For a while I didn't think about the fact that Ethanol is in every grade of gas now adays and finding pure gas stations is harder and harder. Maybe it's rubber manufactures' way of generating more income...it's working!
"Beat it like a red-headed ford"
1987 v10 Silverado(LQ4), 87 R10,83 K20, 83 cucv 6.2 Detroit
2006 Boulevard M109R 109 cid,2019 M109R BOSS
2009 Jeep XK, (future LS Swap)
GSXR 750 engine awaiting go kart

Offline Mike Phillips

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Sounds like a broken resistor on the back of the fuel gauge. 

http://secure.classichq.com/RESISTOR-CONSOLE-FUEL-GAUGE--P816.aspx



Yesterday I removed the dash pad and then removed the instrument gauge cluster in order remove the speedometer cable so I can install a new speedometer cable.

Right now while the dash is all apart, are you saying I need to order this part and then somehow it can be attached on the back of the circuit board to make the fuel gage read correctly?



This is new stuff to me.

:)

Offline Irish_Alley

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http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=31156.0
Probably should test parts if you haven't to make sure its bad
If you can’t tell yourself the truth, who can you tell it to?~Irish_Alley

When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth ~Sherlock Holmes

Offline rich weyand

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Yeah, there's one of those on the back of the fuel gauge already.  From the symptoms you describe, it sounds like it is either busted or not making contact.  You can try just jiggling it around and see if that changes the reading once you have contact.  You can also remove the resistor and test it with an ohmmeter to see if it is broken or not.  I put external-tooth star washers on mine to make better contact.
Rich

"Working Girl": 1978 K-10 RCSB 350/TH350/NP203 +2/+3 Tuff Country lift

Offline Don5

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Good job tracking down the hoses. I agree that most people tend to overlook stuff like that. It's the little details that really make the truck. I noticed that you have traction bars on the back. Do you like those or are you taking them off when you do the shackle flip?

 Reason I am asking is that I have a set but I am on the fence about bolting them on. I think something will break if I bolt them on and take the truck out into the mud. I am thinking the flex might be an issue. They would be OK for straight line though. I am really interested in hearing your response.   
It's been a LONG time since I have been called a newbie. Just sayin....

1979 GMC K15 355, SM 465, 205, 3.73 Dana 44 with a Spartan Locker, 12 bolt Eaton limited slip and 6 inch lift with 36 x 12.50 Super Swamper TSL's.