84 K10 5.3 Vortec 4l60e swap help..pointers

[Irish_Alley]

dont know why but i have always thought it was out of production around 2000. nice to know

[Captkaos]

In 2001 the 4L60E was updated to handle more load capacity and was designated the 4L65E.  It was in use until 2010, but it is still in use today in some capacity.
The 700R4(4L60) was updated to the 4L60E then updated to the 4L65E (behind 6.0L 1/2 T trucks) and the 4L70E (trailblazer SS)

[84Silverado4x4]

So I'm concluding that there really isn't too much concern on what 5.3 I end up getting but I'm kinda feeling like I should be looking for an 02 or newer engine and one out of a truck is probably my best option.  I'm still not sure what transmission I should be using.  I would really like to do it about the easiest and cheapest route possible but yet I want to be happy with the end result.  I would really like to reuse my np208 t case since I just rebuilt it.  I also just had new custom driveshafts built to go with the lift in the truck so I would like to reuse them as well with out having to change or modify them.  If I stuck with the 700r4 can I run that with a drive by wire or will I need to have a cable drivin throttle to work with the tv cable?  I plan on using my stock gauges for a small period until I have more cash and I will upgrade to Dakota Digital VHX gauges.  I have an aftermarket tach, water, volt, and oil gauges in the truck but stock fuel and speedo currently.  Some of the local guys wanted between $1400 and $1700 to build me a good 700r4.  Is this a good price?

[Irish_Alley]

what ever engine you get grab the trans that comes with it. rather its a 5.3 with 4l65E or its a 5.7 with a 4l60E. this way you can use the O.E. computer and wires and be done. but do your research and find out what trans your 208 will bolt up to. then you have to add in the adapter cost for the 208. i wouldn't go to a junkyard and ask for a 5.3 then turn around and ask for a 4l60E, 4l60 or 700r4 cause it might not work with the computer noi matter how simular they are. i understand they may be close but the 700r4 is close to the 4l65E but they arnt the same

[frotosride]

The THM700 was renamed "4L60" (RPO MD8) following the new General Motors naming convention, when the electronic version, 4L60-E (RPO M30), was phased in. This happened in 1993 for trucks, vans, and SUVs, and 1994 for rear wheel drive passenger cars. In 1996, a bolt-on bell housing was phased in (along with a six-bolt tailhousing) for S-10 Trucks and S-10 Blazers and beginning in 1998 for all other applications. Beginning in 1998 a new 300mm torque converter with improved higher-capacity internals, 300mm style Input Shaft, and 300mm style pump was also introduced on LSX engine models. The 4L60-E is rated to handle up to 360 ft·lbf (488 N·m) of torque.

The 4L60-E family of transmissions use 2 shift solenoids, initially called Shift Solenoid A & Shift Solenoid B, later changed to comply with OBD II (On Board Diagnostics revision 2) regulations to 1-2 Shift Solenoid & 2-3 Shift solenoid. By activating and deactivating the solenoids in a predetermined pattern by the PCM, 4 distinct gear ratios can be achieved. The shift solenoid pattern, also sometimes referred to as solenoid firing order, is as follows;

Shift Solenoid Pattern
            1-2 Solenoid 2-3 Solenoid
1st Gear        On       On
2nd Gear       Off       On
3rd Gear        Off       Off
4th Gear        On       Off
Applications:
Buick Rainier
Buick Roadmaster 1994–1996
Cadillac Escalade
Cadillac Brougham 1991-1992
Cadillac Fleetwood 1994–1996
Chevrolet Astro
Chevrolet Avalanche 2002-2008
Chevrolet S-10 Blazer
Chevrolet Camaro 1994–2002
Chevrolet Caprice 1994-96
Chevrolet Colorado
Chevrolet Corvette 1994–2004
Chevrolet Express
Chevrolet Impala SS 1994–1996
Chevrolet S-10
Chevrolet Silverado 1500-2500 (2500 with 6 bolt axle pattern)
Chevrolet SSR
Chevrolet Suburban
Chevrolet Tahoe
Chevrolet TrailBlazer
GMC Canyon
GMC Envoy
GMC Safari
GMC Savana
GMC Sierra 1500-2500 (2500 with 6 bolt axle pattern)
GMC Sonoma
GMC Yukon
GMC Yukon XL Denali
GMC vandura 1993-up
Holden Commodore (VR, VS, VT, VX, VY, VZ, VE) 1993–present
Holden Caprice (VR, VS, WH, WK and WL) 1994–2006
Oldsmobile Bravada
Pontiac Firebird 1994–2002
Pontiac GTO 2004-2006

An updated 4L60-E, the 4L65-E (RPO M32), was phased in the 2001 model year when coupled behind the 6.0 Vortec. Five-pinion front and rear planetaries, along with an additional 3/4 clutch allowing 7 clutches in the input housing and induction hardened input shaft assembly, were improved to withstand up to 380 ft·lbf (515 N·m) of torque.

Applications:
2005 C6 Corvette
Cadillac Escalade
Cadillac Escalade EXT
Chevrolet Silverado SS
GMC Sierra Denali
GMC Yukon Denali
Hummer H2
Holden Crewman 2004 Only
Holden One Tonner 2004 Only
2005–2006 Pontiac GTO (M32, 3.46:1 final drive)
2002 Isuzu Axiom




Just a little more info on tranny's and what they cam in.

[84Silverado4x4]

I really appreciate the help guys!  I'm struggling with what trans I want to use between rebuilding the 700r4 that I already have in my truck...or swapping in a 4l60e.  I want to go the cheapest and easiest route but I don't want to be disappointed in my choice either.  Does the advance trans adapter and the 4l60e increase the length of my current 700r4 configuration?....will I need to shorten or change my rear drive shaft?  I'm pretty happy with how my current 700r4 works but I know it could use a rebuild and now is the time to do it when it's all apart for the 5.3 swap.  I'm not looking to make the 5.3 a big power house either...it will remain in stock form aside from a cold air intake, Performance tune, and a free flowing exhaust.  I really want it to try and get better mileage than my current 350 and fuel injection should help along with cold weather starts because I will be using the truck as my daily driver all year round in South Dakota.  When I have talked about the swap to others i get some saying do yourself a favor and replace the 700r4 with a 4l60e and then theres the other half that seem to hate the 4l60e and rave about the 700r4.  What would you guys do and what would be the cheaper route?...and how much cheaper?
Thanks!

[frotosride]

Cheap isn't always easy and easy isn't always cheap and this is one of those situations. I think that the total length if the 6l60e 26.7" long from the bell housing to the end of the adapter. So taking out the tape measure will be a must. It looks like you already have a little bit of a lift so it may not be much of an issue if you still have the factory length drive shaft. On the other hand the 700-r4 can easily be built to handle just as much power and possibly more with less money than the 4l60e and adapter and especially the computer that you may need to control it. But to keep it cheap will require some elbow grease... I have weighed this option over and over again and just in head ache alone, let alone money to convert to a different transmission, I completely intend to keep the 700-r4 and use a monster in a box to upgrade to my desired power levels of at least 500ftlbs. You will have to remember that the 4l60e is essentially the same as the 700-r4 up to '96 internally with the exception of the TV cable vice shift solenoids oh, and an extra clutch pack as well. So as far as handling the power you intended it will be the same. I would say that the major difference between the two is that the newer models (4l60) shifts smoother with the exception of the 1/2 shift which will always hit like a hammer because of power of the servo's clamping power. However, if you are not familiar with the way a smooth shift functions it may be a surprise to you that is is by allowing the clutch packs to slip causing more wear and tear on the tranny. So the question is really do you want to have or already possess the knowledge to rebuild the 700-r4 or risk needing new drive shaft and shelling out $$$$. Oh and when you do start assembling a part pile and actually putting them together, you know we expect pics...that's what we perceive as payment.

[84Silverado4x4]

Yeah thats part of my issue ...the truck has an 8" suspension lift and I just had brand new custom lenght drive shafts built front and rear.  I don't really want to have to redue them and have that added cost.The adapter for the 4l60e was like $300 and on back order with no time frame of availability.  What will I need to mate a 5.3 to my current 700r4 if I reuse that? 

[Irish_Alley]

if you push the trans back it will move rear drive shaft back then it might be too long but it will also make the front too short. i dont know how stupid it may be or even if it will work but could the motor and cross member be moved up a couple inches? this would keep the trans in the same location.

[Irish_Alley]

tv cable
A little help on tranny selection
6.0 swap with 700r4

[frotosride]

http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/712500a--ls-series-engine-to-th350700rflexplate-kit/

http://paceperformance.com/i-6509791-hphp3795-hughes-performance-ls-crank-adapter.html   http://paceperformance.com/i-5138040-hphp4004x-hughes-sfi-approved-ls-engines-to-gm-th350-th400-700r4-transmissions.html
 
There are two things to choose from there may be more but you will have to search for them. The hughes adapter gives you more detai l
The new style Gen III / LS series engines (4.8, 5.3, 5.7 LS1, 6.0, 6.2) all have the same crank stick out which is .400” closer to the block than the old 350 V8. The Gen III / LS series crank bolt pattern is different than any other GM crank as to the bolt pattern on the flex plate. Only Gen III / LS series flexplates fit these engines!!!
Since a Gen III / LS series flexplate only fits a Gen III / LS series and the engine crank is recessed .400”. There are a few unique things about the torque converters that bolt to the flexplate. The spacing of the flexplate from the back of the block is the same as early GM blocks. The flexplate is dished out .400” to compensate for the crank. The differences come into play as to the bolt pattern of the torque converter to the flexplate and the snout length of the torque converter.

 

How do we adapt TH350,  700R4 to a Gen III / LS series engine? We offer a custom flexplate to fit a TH350,  700R4 and a crank spacer that  compensates for the shorter engine crank.

[84Silverado4x4]

Well aside from maybe having to shorten a rear drive shaft it looks to me like the cost of mating a 700r4 and the cost of mating a 4l60e is about the same.  Should I look to have a wire harness modified and the ecm tuned by someone who does these?  I'm pretty good with wiring and have wired a lot of classic cars/trucks as I have a restoration business, however I haven't been down the LS avenue yet.  I'm partially doing this to get one under my belt and have some experience with it in case I get the chance in the future.  Our local tuner I crazy busy and very hard to get an appointment with and gets around that $500 to write a tune and dyno a vehicle.  I've been installing a lot of aftermarket Efi sysemts like msd's atomic and holley street avenger efi which seem to be good units but they are expensive when you can get the factory stuff with the engine for so cheap so I want to give this a try.  Where would your opinions conclude on the wiring, ecm, and transmission for final result?
Thanks

[Captkaos]

I would rewire it yourself.  It isn't that hard.  Go to lt1swap.com and find you appropriate setup.
IF you plan on using the 700R4 currently in the truck, you have to use a cable setup, I think this would be the simplest solution in you case if you can get the appropriate adapter.

Once you get it ready then have someone tune it.

[84Silverado4x4]

The quotes I got for rebuilding my 700r4 were around that $1400-$1700 range.  Does that sound decent?  Would I need to rebuild a 4l60e if I got one that was low miles?  How can I run my mechanical speedo with a 4l60e?  And Am I understanding this right?....I will need a drive by wire 5.3 to run my 700r4 if I use that?

[84Silverado4x4]

I will need a drive by cable* system... to run the 700r4 with my 5.3???