89 GMC V2500 Burb WONT BURNOUT.

[1979C20]

Theres nothing on the passenger side. 1st picture.
Found what I believe is the date code driver side of center 2nd pic shows 233 cant find info on it.
Found the casting number passenger side of center 3rd pic. Best angle I could get. Says 10243880 which means what I looked up is correct.

[Irish_Alley]

where is that 1st picture from? the third picture is the passengers side where the engine mounts to the bell housing?

[1979C20]

All 3 of these pictures are on the transmission mounting flange on the back of the block.

[1979C20]

Believe I found what my engine may be on jegs. Looks pretty dang close.


http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance/809/19210007/10002/-1?parentProductId=1231165

[dvdswan]

I don't mean to be a spoiler, but I don't think you have what you think you have.  IIRC, these trucks, chevy and gmc, came off the same assembly line in Flint and Janesville.  so getting a chevy engine in a gmc was not unheard of.  I've seen a GMC grille come on a chevy suburban when I worked at a chevy dealer in the late 80s.

if the PO owner told you he put a ZZ4 in the truck did he show you the paperwork?  I would chance to say that you have a very tired engine, may be an original or may not be an original, with unknown mileage.  plus the transmission with however many miles are on it.

all I'm saying is, if YOU didn't do it, install it, make it, then it has a good chance its not.

[winky]

X2 on what dvdswan said. I can't count how many times I have been told a truck has a certain setup just to find out later that t really didn't

Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk

[1979C20]

I have no information from the PO, other than a receipt from the trans rebuild. The information I have found is all based on researching the block, heads, etc.

[square81]

Your motor in the pic looks like an 350tbi. Does it have vortec heads? Only 8 bolts holding the intake on if they are. If not then it's nothing like the one in the picture from Jegs. You just have a 350tbi which wouldn't pull a toddler off its high chair!!! Also explains why it wont burn tires.
 I'd be double checking the block numbers again. Check behind or underneath the a\c compressor. The block has a number stamped on a small pad. Its small and sometimes hard to see.

[square81]

One other thing too. From what I have read and seen. If its a real ZZ4 the engine should have it stamped on it as well.

[1979C20]

The block is the same block that the ZZ4 uses. ZZ4 has aluminum heads, this motor does not. But the one I found on jegs, same heads, engine casting number, etc. I will count the intake bolts in the morning. It is hard to tell from the one picture I included, I will also take more in the morning.

[Greybeard]

IIRC the stamped number you seek may not be there if the engine has been overhauled in a previous life. It would be located on the boss face of the head mounting area right in front of the lower edge of the front passenger side head. If the block has ever been decked it would not be there or would be almost invisible at best. It is a stamped number not cast. Casting numbers generally don't mean a whole lot as to how the engine was assembled, just what the block itself was when cast.

It's been a long time since I've had to crawl around in my engine compartment but the m/d/y it was assembled is stamped at rear flange you were looking at and is a bear to see with the nekid eye due to trash, oil, dead bugs, and general decay in the area unless the truck is a show truck. You'll have to look by the firewall to the left (IIRC) of the distributor and the pad is about 2"x 1/2". A wire toothbrush is handy to clean the area up so it can be read. If it weren't so danged cold out today I'd crawl my fat old arse into my engine compartment and get a picture to show you. It's back there, whether it will do any good with the ID I can't say. But it will narrow the year of assembly down into a nutshell which will tell you if it's the original engine or not.

But I'd say that since the cast number and the number in the logs match that you at least have that block; whether or not it is a crate engine is what you want to discover right? It might be a moot point anyway. The engine isn't going to do what you ask of it in it's current condition. So there are a few ways to tackle the issue; throw money and various parts at it and hope they work together to give you the illusion of great things, rebuild what you have with parts that are known to work well together, or buy a different crate engine (at least a good quality short block) and offset a little of the cost by selling this engine. Buying a turnkey engine is the most promising and the most expensive in most cases (at least it used to be), building your own (which means assembling what you feel comfortable with after a pro machine shop is done with the parts you choose) has more risk but also more personal reward even if it lacks the power you had assumed it should have due to poor choices of parts (BTDT; World Product SR heads are junk when the price is "right", ya get what ya pay for), or buying a donor truck or car with a known strong engine and swapping them and then selling the donor again (risky for your reputation if the engine is really junk, but a weak engine in a truck will feel much better in a lighter car so it may not be so bad as long as it doesn't burn oil.
YMMV so good luck! 

[roboticjunky]

Let's say it's a ZZ4 crate motor. (Since the casting numbers are saying that.) ZZ4 has 330 hp and the stock 350 TBI had 190 hp.
I would bet money that the ECM is still stock, the injectors are still stock, and still has the stock fuel pressure. So IMO sounds like the engine isn't tuned. When an engine isn't tuned, it can turn into a turd.

[Irish_Alley]

kind of glanced over the past 4 pages but did you recheck the timing?

[Greybeard]

When an engine isn't tuned, it can turn into a turd.

What he said ^^^^, Since I'm not at all familiar with electronic anything I can't comment on things I know nothing about.

did you recheck the timing?

This is really good to check also......^^^

What I do is probably backwards from most folks. I worry about the electrics first and once you know the spark is strong and hitting at the right time THEN move to the normally first  addressed items like the A/F, exhaust, etc. You can have the greatest fuel system in the world but if the spark gets snuffed out all the fuel and air won't do anything but go out the exhaust pipe. Just the way I approach things...YMMV

[1979C20]

I will have to check more casting numbers/stamped numbers after work. The timing is sat at 0° with the EST wire unplugged. I just did the Ultimate TBI mod, made the FPR adjustable and have it set at 13-13.5 psi a few days ago. I just replaced the ignition coil, wires, and spark plugs a few weeks ago. I have manifolds into the factory y pipe with 3 inch tubing into a thrush welded muffler.