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I don't know much about it, but if it's simply a matter of getting your own yard cleared, could you use the e-brake? If you replaced the soft line to the caliper, I don't think there would be a way of getting the air out without the bleeder. Simply cracking a fitting higher up the line won't get the air out of the caliper, which is where it all is right now. This is super hillbilly, but if it were mine, I'd top off the MC, then disconnect the soft line from the caliper and remove the caliper from the truck. I'd let the line gravity bleed until all the air was out. In the meantime, I'd try to fill the caliper by hand with fluid in a way that got all the air bubbles out that I could see. I'd use a needle to dislodge any visible air bubbles from inside the caliper and would bump and shake the caliper to bring all the bubbles to the surface as much as possible. You're basically trying to bench bleed the caliper. Then with the caliper filled up to brimming, I'd reattach the dribbling line and then remount the caliper. I'd say you have a snowball's chance of having some kind of useful braking that way. It's far from ideal, but desperate times call for desperate measures, right?For the rear, if you crack the hard line at the wheel cylinder, you may be successful there. If you could find someone to pump the brakes while you crack lines, that would be much better.
I've been in that same situation many many times. If you are careful you can heat it up with a torch and get it out. Be careful not to boil the fluid or burn anything rubber on the caliper. If it works then put a new bleeder screw in. If it doesn't work and breaks the bleeder off put the caliper on the bench and try to get it out. I all that fails napaonline has them listed for $27 for your truck.Good luck with it before the noreaster hits.
New calipers are $17 each I wouldn't spent much time messing With the bleeder screws at that price Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk