Lift kit Q & A for those with lift kits and for those who want lift kits

[Greybeard]

Cummins engines tick and knock at idle, get used to it. If it makes those noises at speed however, maybe some stethoscope espionage is in order. Don't be afraid to run it in neutral at WFO, its a diesel, it won't run faster than it is governed to (unless the governor is broken or turned up), diesels much prefer to run in a steady state setting, for instance, my tractor (1974 Oliver 1755) is the most efficient in using fuel at near redline (PTO speed) of 2400 rpm. It will run happy all day at this speed. Running a slower RPM results in using more fuel.
 
I have an unknown size Cummins engine in the school bus I drive, but it's a pretty new computer controlled engine (2012). The knocking noise at idle is the compression and timing, they explode ya know, they don't burn like gasoline engines do. Take that statement with a grain of salt, I am no diesel expert even though I have been driving big trucks (big cranes, big excavators, big bulldozers, etc.) for the better part of half a century. The old mechanical fuel pump or gravity fed diesels would run without any electric running to them until the fuel ran out. Today, not so much. For example, my tractor is gravity fed to the injector pump and as long there is fuel in the tank it will run. I can remove the battery, turn off the ignition, whatever, it will keep running until I pull the fuel shutoff. Today there are so many fail-safes it is a wonder an engine can run at all. 

[Irish_Alley]

i can hear the knock then sometimes i can hear a tick almost like a rocker arm. part of me is still in the gas motor stage and hearing the tick is whats getting to me

[frotosride]

1987 V10 silver
Installed rough country 4" lift springs front and rear in 2013
35"*12.5 general grabbers on M/T 15*10.5
Frame to Axel front: 14"
Frame to Axel rear:16 3/8

[enaberif]

1987 V10 silver
Installed rough country 4" lift springs front and rear in 2013
35"*12.5 general grabbers on M/T 15*10.5
Frame to Axel front: 14"
Frame to Axel rear:16 3/8

only springs in the rear?

[frotosride]

Yes springs all the way around

[Greybeard]

i can hear the knock then sometimes i can hear a tick almost like a rocker arm. part of me is still in the gas motor stage and hearing the tick is whats getting to me

The tick sound is likely the injectors. For an engine the size of which will fit in a truck I am not sure if it has sequential injection or not, but I don't believe a throttle body has been used for years on them. Run it by a big truck repair shop or a dealers shop and ask one of the techs to give it a listen. It shouldn't cost anything to simply listen to it but who knows these days. As I said the knock at idle is the compression stroke. It shouldn't be very loud but that depends on how much fuel is being fed to it. The early Powerstroke engines rattled like they had a can of bolts in the crankcase. Cummins engines have an excellent reputation for being solid. I have never heard of a lower end failure in one, but that doesn't mean much. Keep them full of oil, change it regularly and 500,000 miles should be easily attained.

BTW- don't just go and start messing with the injection pump thinking you will bump the HP up. That is the way to do it but it not that easy. On my tractor (not the same breed I know) it only takes about a thirtysecondth of a turn on the screw to bump the HP up by ten, and then the exhaust starts to glow at idle because the injection timing hasn't changed. I'm not saying it shouldn't or can't be done, the procedure just needs to be thoroughly understood before doing it. 

[Irish_Alley]

Yeah I haven't touched the pump or injectors gets knowing harm or a "runaway" is very easy. But I'm 95% sure someone else before me knew or thought they knew what they were doing. I do have a pyro meter on it and a boost gauge. Pyro is norm 600-800 this is after the downpipe past the turbo. And boost can reach 40 easy when I get on it. Whish I went with a nv4500 to get all the power out of it

[Greybeard]

I know that about 900 degrees on a big truck engine with a full load on a even uphill grade used to be about normal, todays engines may or may not be the same. One thing is certain without an inter-cooler you don't want to bring it up too high or it heats up the intake air too much reducing the benefits of the turbo (not to mention causing the exhaust to glow red). Iron and steel melt at between 2060 (grey cast iron) and 2800 (carbon steel). That makes 1000 degrees a good point to stop.

[enaberif]

Front brake lines

New brake lines from 2wd C10 of the same era.. Slightly longer and bolt right on.

Part # 36760 from Napa. Measures around 24.5" from end to end.
I've gotten most of what I need now but one of the biggest issues with these trucks is that in 1978? They switched from a 7/16" banjo fitting to a 10mm banjo fitting on the caliper. Now this means one could swap the calipers but that is going to be more money.

What I have discovered is NAPA part # 38622 and 38623 which are left/right brake hoses which are 26" in length but its a 10mm banjo nut. People have drilled this out successfully to 7/16" without any issues and that is what I think I will be doing.


Rear brake line

Napa part # 381272 which will give you 22.50" of length. I'm not sure what that part number is for or from but it worked well for me. I think it'll work mostly on the 73-80 years but may work on the later years as I'm not sure what the fittings are after 80.

[Greybeard]

You are doing an awful lot of research there Bud. Good for you.

When I swapped in the 14 bolt back in the stone age I just bought longer hard lines, extended the spacer bracket up to reach the rubber line and was done with it. It lasted through heavy mud, deep water, and rocks until I sold the truck a few years later. In the front I just moved the stock hard lines to below the frame, built a bracket to hold them tight and was done with that. Never snagged it on anything. Just kept it up above the bottom of the upper bump stop. Only had to drill one hole on each side IIRC. And that was in the side of the bump stop bracket. The setup wasn't pretty I guess but it worked. However, that was back when the original parts were still in good shape, doing it the way you are is the best way now after nearly 40 years of weather rotting has been achieved. 

[enaberif]

Thanks I just simply found that there wasn't enough information and that suspension companies wanted far to much for just a few brake hoses.

[frotosride]

Ain't that the truth especially when there are OE stly replacements on the shelves that can be found anywhere. Instead they try to make them seem exotic to Jack up the price. I like the info especially if I ever get a K5 or late 70's burban.

[Irish_Alley]

I priced them on napaonline.com front lines are 21.99/each rear is 16.99 so $60.97 for all 3 vs $105 for the stainless.

[enaberif]

Don't get me wrong... stainless would be awesome but $60 for replacement lines that add length... why wouldn't you.

For the rear ...
Raybestos BH381272 is the same as the NAPA.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=305372&jnid=300&jpid=0

Fitting for
CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500   (1999 - 2006)
CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 CLASSIC   2007
CHEVROLET SILVERADO 2500   (1999 - 2006)
CHEVROLET SILVERADO 2500 CLASSIC   2007
CHEVROLET SILVERADO 3500   (2001 - 2004)
GMC   SIERRA 1500   (1999 - 2006)
GMC   SIERRA 1500 CLASSIC   2007
GMC   SIERRA 2500   (1999 - 2006)
GMC   SIERRA 2500 CLASSIC   2007
GMC   SIERRA 3500   (2001 - 2004)

[Irish_Alley]

Heck yeah II love to save and still be safe