Instrument Lights and Daytime Running Lights Not Working

[bd]

That red wire into the bulkhead connector has to be powered if you want the lights to work.  The red wire from the regulator connector has to be powered for the alternator to charge at the correct voltage.

Connect the red regulator wire directly to the output post of the alternator.

Connect the 12-ga red wire from the bulkhead connector to the alternator output post through a 16-ga fusible link.

And...

When you perform the quick test I mentioned, use an incandescent test light connected between B+ and the regulator #2 terminal with the regulator connector unplugged.  (The #2 terminal is the terminal that normally connects with the red wire).  In other words, I want you to connect the test light in series between battery positive and the regulator terminal.  Do not use a voltmeter.  In this case we are not interested in voltage, we are interested in current flow through the regulator sensing circuit.  The brightness of the test light will be an indicator of that current flow.

[Double-A]

Alright. You still mean like this picture right?

I still have to go get a test light..

[bd]

You can mimic the image or you can install the link as follows...

Connect the red regulator wire directly to the output post of the alternator.

Connect the 12-ga red wire from the bulkhead connector to the alternator output post through a 16-ga fusible link.

Both methods amount to the same thing.  The second approach might be a little easier.

[Double-A]

Well I havent been able to get a test light yet and I havent redone the wires by the alternator. But I went to start it the other day just to see if it could. Well it just turns over a few times before the batteries are flat.. Maybe this is just bad batteries but it started ok before I installed the new light switch with the correct wires instead of the blue wire straight to the battery.

[bd]

You started this thread three months ago.  How long has the truck been sitting unused?  Batteries can go dead due to a charge imbalance between the batteries, a parasitic draw, something inadvertently left on, or bad cells.  Cold temperatures don't help.  Over a really long period of non-use they can sulfate, diminishing capacity to the point of making them useless and unrecoverable.  Why don't you charge the batteries then disconnect both battery ground cables, making sure the batteries are disconnected from each other and the vehicle until you have the wiring repaired?  You can use a trickle charger to keep them charged and connect one back up temporarily if you need to perform a test.  Once the wiring is completed, the batteries can be evaluated.

[Double-A]

The truck hasn't been unused the entire time.. It's been driven and started every so often just to make sure it still works. I never thought of disconnecting the batteries though (they are whenever I do a fix).
I still have to find a test light.. I'm not sure who will have any. I checked home depot today and they didn't have any.

[bd]

Amazon,  Harbor Freight,  NAPA,  O'Reilly,  Summit Racing  (red = better choices)

A test light is one of the best electrical troubleshooting tools you can own - inexpensive and nearly foolproof.  Procure an incandescent test light (replaceable filament type bulb) for 6- and 12-volt circuits.  DO NOT buy an LED or neon test light for general automotive electrical troubleshooting!

[Double-A]

Alright, I'll check O'Reilly's as there is one here in town.
Why won't a multimeter work though?

[bd]

Why won't a multimeter work though?

A multimeter with appropriate current scales will work to check parasitic draw through the regulator with a caveat.  I prefer a test light, because it's reliable and there is decreased risk of blowing a meter fuse or damaging the meter if the circuit under test is shorted.  A test light connected directly across a 12-volt battery typically limits current flow to between 45 ma and 60 ma, depending on the bulb.  An ammeter imposes virtually zero restriction to current flow.  Additionally, some meter fuses are difficult to source and expensive.  What DC current scales does your multimeter have? 

[Double-A]

My multimeter is a cheapy one.. Its says on it "Battery 9 and 1.5 volt"

[Double-A]

Ok I got a test light. I am not sure if a radio was installed on circuit 2 like you were asking but I know an aftermarket one was installed. I removed it though and might try to find an oem one

[Double-A]

...  The red wire from the regulator connector has to be powered for the alternator to charge at the correct voltage.

Connect the red regulator wire directly to the output post of the alternator.

Connect the 12-ga red wire from the bulkhead connector to the alternator output post through a 16-ga fusible link.

I have attached a drawing to make sure I understand what you mean by this.
The photograph shows what you meant originally.

Tomorrow I will do your test with the test light and probably get the alternator wires ready.

[bd]

Although either method for connecting the red headlamp switch feed to B+ will work, installing the fusible link according to your diagram offers a slight service advantage.

The subsequent test will indicate whether the regulator is internally shorted and causing a parasitic drain on the batteries.  With the battery connected and the two-wire regulator harness unplugged from the alternator, clip the test light to B+ and probe the alternator case (ground) to verify the test light is making a good connection; then probe the regulator terminals one at a time.  Probing the #1 regulator terminal should cause the test light to illuminate dimly.  Probing the #2 regulator terminal should not illuminate the test light at all.  Post what happens.

[Double-A]

Ok. I did your test (hopefully in the correct way) and redid the wires by the alternator.
I put one lead of my test light on the B+ post of the alternator and then put the probe on the alternator case. It lit up here.

I probed the terminal with the white wire (terminal 1 I think) and it lit dimly like you described.

I probed terminal 2 with the red wire and it did not light.

The test came out the same before and after I redid the wires.

[bd]

Good!  You just proved the regulator is not shorted and draining the batteries.  You should have power to the headlamp switch, now.  Correct?