My New truck, 2004 silverado. Anyone know anything I should about it?

[Irish_Alley]

-The clusters have issues, although my 2000 hasn't had an issue yet.
-make sure the driveshaft carrier bearing is good.
-center console lids are weak.
-heater issue is likely the little motor at the bottom of the box in the center, mine would stay hot if I turned it to hot at all, grandpa replaced that motor (i believe that's what it is) and it works fine now, it's like a motorized diverter valve.
-intake vacuum leaks are common.

Like yours mine is a 4.8L auto extended cab.

this kind of wraps up the list that i know of. also add to it the evap canister are problematic and go bad if your check engine light comes on referring to evap this might be the problem i forget the code but i can find out.

also the HVAC controls like stated are problematic and like stated could be from excessive draw on the motor, most people dont realize these trucks have a cabin air filter than needs to be changed or it will cause the blower motor to pull harder than it should which might be why the HVAC controls have problems.

[Gagecampbell82]

Thanks for all the info,  I've had a little more time with the truck and it's still doing good, I believe the tick is an exhaust leak but down here our roads are literally flooded from rain.

so much that just about 5 min from my home, there's a culvert that has washed out and taken a large chunk of road with it. I take that road quite often and not only is it the way I take to the river, but its also the main road for traffic to brownsferry nuclear power plant. I can stand on my porch at night and see the blinking lights from the plant.

But anyway I'll have to double check the exhaust leak, and the main reason for the heater not working is because the chunk of plastic broken out is in the corner of where the blower blows air over the heater core, so when the gf is in the truck she complains about the cold air blowing on her, haha but it's warm on my side, so I'll epoxy that back on when I get time.

I've also noticed one of the door actuator things clicks very quietly when the passenger side manual heat adjustment thing is turned all the way up. So I keep it about 2 clicks from full hot and it goes away, but I've also found out the leaking water isn't the heater core because it's not any dexcool in the floor it's pure water, (ik the dexcool crap is a whole different situation that prob. Has its own thread by now, but if it ain't broke don't fix it) it'll be flushed out when it needs to be.

But I started thinking maybe this is something like the "wet carpet problem" but I haven't run the a.c. any, then I only noticed it's when it rains. So I'm assuming that it's entering somewhere under the cowl because the firewall didn't show signs of anywhere that's letting water in, and it's coming directly out of the heater, and the window gasket is also all good, so when I get a chance I'll pull the cowl and look for somewhere that needs a shot of silicone.haha.

 if anyone has any advice on why my dad's boot gets soaked every time it rains and we take my truck ( he never remembers about the water, and he always says  his foot is freezing before he remembers) I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.

[rumblebox]

-Gauge cluster servo motors (03-07clsssic)
-blend door actuators making a clicky noise
-electric throttle body wears out and goes into limp mode
-exhaust manifold bolts break off in the head causing the manifold to warp and leak
-4L60e is on borrowed time after 100k miles.
-the 4.8 is unfortunate, but an LQ4/LQ9 6.0L drops and plugs right in.
-switch to Mobil 1, and see if the lifter tick goes away. (Check for leaks)
-it also wouldnt be a bad idea to replace the oil pump o-ring at that mileage. Sometimes the o-ring will harden and allow air to seep in, causing foamy oil. The pressure will still register normally, but a lifter will tick.