Author Topic: So many lines! What do they all do?  (Read 25765 times)

Offline 1967KaiserM715

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Re: So many lines! What do they all do?
« Reply #15 on: February 21, 2016, 08:01:17 AM »
Looks like they were running French fry oil.
You wouldn't need a heated hose for bio diesel


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Actually if they were using engine and gear oil, a heater would be needed to thin it down as well, and depending on location a heater would be needed fir bio in colder weather

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Offline fmxr47

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Re: So many lines! What do they all do?
« Reply #16 on: February 21, 2016, 08:18:47 AM »
All I know is it almost smelled like old tarnished gasoline but thicker in consistency, was some nasty stuff!


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Offline fmxr47

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Re: So many lines! What do they all do?
« Reply #17 on: February 21, 2016, 12:38:55 PM »
still needs a really good scrubbing to see what all is really leaking but it's getting better


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Offline fmxr47

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So many lines! What do they all do?
« Reply #18 on: February 21, 2016, 01:36:33 PM »
The dang thing is still running like crap after changing everything, fresh fuel in a brand new tank, new filter, new fuel pump, several new pieces or rubber line, again the only tank plumbed up now is the passenger side one, I wonder if this filter housing is the cause of all my headaches?

I did just fill it up down the road at a TA truck stop and poured in a can of sea foam before hand so it's a completely full tank.


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Offline 1967KaiserM715

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Re: So many lines! What do they all do?
« Reply #19 on: February 21, 2016, 03:07:44 PM »
first off, you need to plumb the CDR/PCV valve to the intake ahead of turbo, this creates the vacuum to work it, venting it like you have it now does nothing, and will actually remain closed if it is still working(which means excessive crankcase pressure and possible blowing of seals.)

now what are the exact symptoms of the engine, take your time spell it out, be descriptive, and we should arrive at a solution much quicker.

my first thought is an air leak-which if what you say you still have one, it is completely probable that is the cause of 90% of the symptoms.

Next, I hate cobbled Bio systems, cause that means most people just through crap into the system and that clogs up everything, so running a mix of diesel and power-service from a 1 gallon jug, or even try Lubro-Moly Diesel Purge(big one for VW and Mercedes Diesel) will help clean the system very fast.
Current Vehicles:1985 GMC K10(Daily) 1991 GMC K2500(Daily) 1975 Beetle(not running) 1985 Mercedes 300D(not running) 1952 M35    1967 M715(not running)
 1986 Chevy K30(under repair)

Offline fmxr47

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Re: So many lines! What do they all do?
« Reply #20 on: February 21, 2016, 04:35:57 PM »
The CDR is bad and is basically just venting to the atmosphere at the moment, I will get a new one shortly. There was a good amount of oil on the intake pre turbo side because of the CDR, turbo is good, spins smooth no play and doesn't spin to freely either, just right. Anyhow the light for water in fuel comes on and stays on for a while when driving. The truck will stutter and rev hang like a two stroke with an air leak does. However it does not rev smoothly nor go to WOT when this is happening. Sometimes it will idle other times it stumbles and dies, I'm sure if I go back and start it in a day or two after it settles it will probably run good until I make a few turns and slosh things around.


The other problem I think I might have involves fuel supply, my new pump and old pump did the same thing, when cracking the drain open on the model 80 filter housing the fuel does not run steady and some times I even hear air gurgling up in the line, so I thought maybe my pump was faulty with intermittent issues and also the fuel line may have been bad, so that's when I decided to remove all of that old bio setup.

I'll try and upload a video to YouTube and post the link


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Offline fmxr47

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Re: So many lines! What do they all do?
« Reply #21 on: February 21, 2016, 04:38:03 PM »

Offline fmxr47

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Re: So many lines! What do they all do?
« Reply #22 on: February 21, 2016, 04:41:40 PM »
At the end of the second one I'm holding the throttle at about half and it died


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Offline 1967KaiserM715

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Re: So many lines! What do they all do?
« Reply #23 on: February 21, 2016, 05:08:14 PM »
Filter sock on the fuel pickup clogged? Or it is a gas sock, in which case it won't pick up diesel right. WIF shows low pressure from water, also effective at picking out air pockets.

Next, are you absolutely sure the lift pump is working?

Everything sort of points to air in the system, so we need to figure out where it is entering.

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Offline fmxr47

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Re: So many lines! What do they all do?
« Reply #24 on: February 21, 2016, 05:16:37 PM »
It was spotless when I removed the tank and it was a mesh material like a brass color. Fuel pump I can hear making pressure when it gets quieter, loud when there is no pressure.


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Offline fmxr47

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Re: So many lines! What do they all do?
« Reply #25 on: February 21, 2016, 05:17:18 PM »
Also the pump I replaced it with matches the specs of the proper electric lift pump


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Offline 1967KaiserM715

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Re: So many lines! What do they all do?
« Reply #26 on: February 21, 2016, 06:49:07 PM »
Sounds like wrong sock, you can try removing it.

The pump issue sounds like it is running dry. Remove gas cap(or loosen) and try running it.

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 1986 Chevy K30(under repair)

Offline fmxr47

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Re: So many lines! What do they all do?
« Reply #27 on: February 21, 2016, 06:50:18 PM »
It has always been a diesel though, unless the sender has been changed, it was originally a 6.2


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Offline 1967KaiserM715

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Re: So many lines! What do they all do?
« Reply #28 on: February 21, 2016, 08:40:28 PM »
Sorry, your probably right, the later 6.5s got a nylon sock

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Offline hatzie

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Re: So many lines! What do they all do?
« Reply #29 on: February 22, 2016, 12:32:52 PM »
first off, you need to plumb the CDR/PCV valve to the intake ahead of turbo, this creates the vacuum to work it, venting it like you have it now does nothing, and will actually remain closed if it is still working(which means excessive crankcase pressure and possible blowing of seals.)

now what are the exact symptoms of the engine, take your time spell it out, be descriptive, and we should arrive at a solution much quicker.

my first thought is an air leak-which if what you say you still have one, it is completely probable that is the cause of 90% of the symptoms.

Next, I hate cobbled Bio systems, cause that means most people just through crap into the system and that clogs up everything, so running a mix of diesel and power-service from a 1 gallon jug, or even try Lubro-Moly Diesel Purge(big one for VW and Mercedes Diesel) will help clean the system very fast.

You can run straight bio in the summer and 25% in the winter.  It gels faster and easier than #2 diesel below 30F but it shouldn't need a heater just to run.  Anti-gel additives like Power Systems work just as well on bio as they do on #2.
The Micky Mouse cobbling that goes on with most WVO systems is truly awful.  Then they sell em to the unsuspecting when they stop working.

Stoppering up the leaks should start with replacing the Stanadyne 80 box filter on the firewall with something that doesn't leak.  Putting the Stanadyne fuel manager the PO cobbled above the rear axle back at the rear of the engine is a good start.  You can buy a whole Stanadyne filter manager for under $130 if they damaged that one.  Be sure to replace the screen. Howto here--->http://leroydiesel.com/products/stanadyne-fuel-filter-manager-screen/
 
The fuel injectors really take a beating when you run straight waste oil (either veggie or lube oils).  The pre-chambers coke up with carbon and polymerized unburnt waste oil too.   I'd pull the injectors to get a look at the pre-chambers and the glow plugs.   
Get a shop to clean, spray, and pop test the injectors, or do it yourself, to see how much crud has affected the spray pattern.  If you DIY with one of the many hydraulic jack type pop testers use it outdoors or under a spark free vent hood, do not breathe the fuel vapor, and KEEP YOUR SKIN AND EYES AWAY FROM THE SPRAYING FUEL (I use a 2 quart Mason jar) you will loose anything that gets sprayed.  The injector fuel spray is under enough pressure (1,850-2,200 psi) that it will inject fuel directly through your skin and into the bone.  You'll have to have to have parts amputated.  If you think I'm trying to scare you you are right.  Be careful. Fingers hands etc are not replaceable parts.  You'll miss em if they're gone.

If the pre-chambers are coked up you'll have to pull the heads and get it cleaned out.  Polymerized coked waste oil is about like someone took liquid coal and poured it into the insert and chamber in the cylinder head and poured on a thick layer of glass for good measure.  I've seen the injector heat shields literally glued into the cylinder head with polymerized waste oil. 
Be sure to use NEW injector heat shields and install them with the correct side facing up.
The 6.2 & 6.5L injectors are the same family of Bosch injectors as the 1970's & 1980's Mercedes and VW diesels used.  New Bosch nozzles will not last.  Mercedessource is a Monark nozzle dealer.  They will have pop shims and quality German made Monark nozzles.  Bosch nozzles are made in India now.  Just say no to the crudely made Chinese nozzles you see on evilbay.  Here's some discussion on re-building 6.xL injectors. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/21-6-5l-diesel-engine/473725-6-5l-turbo-injector-nozzel-replacement-where-buy-shims-heat-sheilds.html

**EDIT**  Add  Bosio nozzles to the list.  They're supposedly still made in Europe too.  Italy...  but that could change.  Bosch nozzles are definitely made in India now and the quality was slipping when they were still being manufactured in Deutschland.   The Bosio nozzles don't have the extra pilot holes so they should provide better economy than the Mercedes type Monark nozzles.  If they are still made in Italy.  If production has moved to Asia or India go with the Monark nozzles.

If you want return hose that lasts get the GERMAN 3.5mm braided cover >NBR< hose.  Any Mercedes or VW dealer will have it in bulk.  The VW and Mercedes return terminators work just fine on your GM 6.xL injectors too.  You do not need 16 spring loaded hose clamps when you use the braided stuff and real >NBR< hose doesn't melt from diesel or bio-diesel fuels. 
« Last Edit: February 22, 2016, 09:22:09 PM by hatzie »
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