Front shackles worn?

[fmxr47]

I went and picked the truck up tonight so I'll take it to work tomorrow and tinker with it after hours, we have aloft so I can get it off the ground and check all my bushings and axles with ease, I also need to fab up my new down pipe tomorrow night


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[Greybeard]

Maybe a set of calipers will prevent taking it apart. You just need the ID of the spring eye for now, the ID of the new bushing sleeve will determine what size hole the shackles need.

[fmxr47]

That was my exact thought, it looks like the bushings are so far gone that I could probably get it on the lift and he it up just enough to where the bushings are loose and I could fit the calipers in there. I'd like to find a set of grease bolts for it once I decide what route I'm going, I may get longer shackles or just make my own, we will see...


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[Greybeard]

If you make your own be careful of the type of steel you use. My first gut instinct (after 23 years as a crane operator) is to use a high carbon steel that is probably not available at your local hardware store but I may be wrong. My first choice would be high carbon cold rolled steel. Since no machine work will be required beyond drilling, it retains all it's strength and predictability. Unfortunately, if you decide to place a center brace in the middle, the welding will ruin the properties of the cold rolled around the weld.

On the other hand, hot rolled steel is fully weldable and welding does not bother it's properties too much as long as it is allowed to cool naturally. And just like bolts, I have always been a grade 5 bolt believer in suspension components. Others swear by only using grade 8. The difference is simply how fast the bolt breaks, a grade 5 will distort and and bend and absorb a lot of abuse before it fails, a grade 8 simply fails. Grade 8 is better under tension, grade 5 is better under shear. Shackles put the bolts into a shear condition. Grade 8 has better abrasion resistance too and will probably not rust and seize inside the collar as fast. Your choice really.

[fmxr47]

We have a welding/fab shop right around the corner


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[fmxr47]

I measured my shackle bushings today and they have 7/16 bolts with 1.15 which I'm guessing is actually 1.125 bushings. Also did my down pipe tonight


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[fmxr47]

Made up some shackles at work today 5" eye to eye, I figure that will get the eyes of the springs away from the frame enough, I'm waiting on my bushings to come in, I'm hoping I can reuse the grease bolts that are on the truck.


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[fmxr47]

Replaced my shackle bushings after work tonight and installed the shackles I made, couldn't get the springs to drop down at all, thought my shocks were tipped out but it was my drive shaft holding me up. Are there any cheaper easy fixes to get a longer drive shaft? Any interchangeable from other vehicles? Rides way smoother now and quoted over bumps.


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[roundhouse]

I dont see how the driveshaft can reduce drop
Usually the slip joint will just come totally apart

Check the slip joint and make sure it's working properly

If you have a lot of travel you may need a new shaft with a longer slip joint


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[fmxr47]

Yeah I beat it apart yesterday and left it soaking in some parts washing fluid to break up the rust


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[fmxr47]

The blue plastic coating on the splines was to blame, they were all chewed up and bound up in the slip yoke, wire wheeled everything and slapped some never seize on it for assembly then packed full of grease, seems to move great now

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[Greybeard]

Near as I can tell, the female part of the slip joint should have a screw on dust/dirt cover that does not allow the slip joint to come apart unless the cap is stripped off or bent open by the splined male end. If the blue coating is removed the splines won't last long afterwards. That plastic is designed to take up the slack and keep the shock loading at bay during the cycling of the axle. YMMV

[fmxr47]

I know why the plastic is there but it wouldn't let me slide the shaft apart it back together even after carefully trimming all the loose plastic, I'm a industrial mechanic so I'm pretty avid about greasing and maintaining stuff, I'll just keep her well greased and see what happens. The shaft slid apart fine as far as getting past the rubber grease seal, the seal was really thing and seems reusable as far as pulling the shaft apart to clean it if and when necessary. I didn't try unscrewing it at all but if I need to again in the future I will definitely try it to safe the life of that seal haha


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[Greybeard]

Sorry, never do know the knowledge level of folks.

[fmxr47]

No worries, didn't mean to sound harsh or snappy in my response.


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