350 cam

[1979C20]

I cant find a video right now, but ill record one this weekend for you. Yes, you can use the Timing cover and distributor.

I take my truck to about 5500 rpms when I'm race-shifting it. Valves haven't floated on me, and I havent had any other problems.

[454Man]

Thanks for taking the time out to record a video. It would not only help me out but others aswell. Nice to know about the valve springs not floating as I'm tring to keep cost down and still want a lope in my chevy.

[1979C20]

I wanted the choppiest cam I could get. So I called my local performance shop and asked them what the biggest cam I could use with stock valve train was and this is the one they recommended. I was also on a budget. I think my whole motor rebuild cost me about 800 dollars.  $300 for machine work(vat, crack check, head cleaning and crack check, .010 ground off the crank, cam bearings installed) $140 for a bearing and seal kit(rings, main bearings, rod bearings, full gasket set), $125 for the cam and lifters, and about 200 dollars in various other parts, like power steering pump, water pump, alternator, battery, nuts and bolts, starter, fuel pump. It was a fairly lo cost build and its holding up strong. I would recommend putting a high volume oil pump in you truck, even with stock bearing clearances. I did not bore my engine, and it needed it. I bought a honing tool and honed it myself. I just couldn't justify the money to pay for the bore, and buy new pistons, when I could just hone most of the scratches out and call it good. I dont burn much oil, and I dont have piston slap. Just giving you some food for thought. Also, if you have any machine work done, go back over the work to make absolute sure there wasnt anything missed. I did not double check and I had to replace my heads because the machine shop missed a crack on the driver side. Sorry for blabbering on. Ill get that video today or tomorrow. Maybe a little bit of racing around so you can feel the raw power through the internet.

[454Man]

Hey man I really appreciate the write up! My engine is coming from a place here in dallas called blanes motor supply. They have em in stock and a lot of people talk good about them they have a website, but ignore the prices on line cause there old. 350 engine minus intake flywheel, and oil pan 705. I'm getting that cam you suggested. I hope this turns out good. Its basically a stock build minus the cam

[frotosride]

Seeing how you already decided on a cam, put this in the htough bank for the next built and it doesn't matter what make of the engine you build. If you are searching for a "LOPE" in almost any engine and you want it to be running on all cylinders(lol)...The primary cam spec you should be concerned with is LSA=lobe seperation angle. The lower the number for the LSA then the more aggressive the "LOPE". For  check any normal cam's LSA against say a Comp Thumper and you will se what I mean. The lower LSA is what gives the thumper cams their attitude and hence their name. But don't read this and think that I'm telling you that LSA is the only important thing when selecting a cam. LSA is simply the distance of peak intake to exhaust lift in degrees of cam rotation....so from the top of intake lobe to top of exhaust lobe for the same cylinder in degrees. This is where you gain the most overlap and scavaging....
OH, and here is a link if you are the reading, not sure how old it is but it doesn't matter because the facts hold true.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0606em_camshaft_specs/viewall.html

[454Man]

Yeah I understand what you are saying. Its just I'm new to chevys and didn't know how much of a cam and overlap/lsa I can go on a stock build. so I had to ask you guys what you all suggest. I want this truck to sound better than my neighbors ram with the hemi. That's why I wanted the lope. He has turn downs and it anoys me... because I don't have somethin to crank up and shut him down. Lol

[frotosride]

Then it sounds like the next step is to get that sound out with some headers and new pipes....I mean i like mopars and i think that the new Ram commercials are halariouse inhow they attack ford so directly but he whats wrong with making a little noise. I'm putting flowtech headers on mine as we speak.

[454Man]

Great that was my next question I've been lookin around and haven't seen many hedders that say in th ad that they fit our trucks. Where can I get some for a 350?

[1979C20]

Try your local auto parts store. They can order them in, or you can try header maker websites like Hedman, Hooker, etc. It may be pricey to buy new. or you can try craigslist. If you find a decent priced set, just ask the poster if they would fit a SBC or what they came out of. Where are you located?

[1979C20]

Here is one pair in dallas.

http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/pts/2858309339.html

[454Man]

Got the truck

[1979C20]

Here's the video I took today, the sound quality isn't that great on my girlfriends Blackberry, but you can hear the rhythm and the chop, lope it has.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRdznKMAhEE&feature=youtu.be


Here's my exhaust. only about 3 or 4 feet long.




And here is my engine after I built it, still on the stand. Looked good when the paint was fresh and the motor was clean.

[454Man]

Now that's what I'm talkin about. Nice lope that will shut em down. thanks

[1979C20]

No problem. Good luck with the build.

[frotosride]

If you are looking for cheap with good quality then check out summit racing...specifically flowtech. Up til '87 the fram basically stayed the same and you should have the clearance for any of these headers listed for trucks in these years. However, if you don't want to hack up your existing exhaust then stick with a shorty style because most of them will bolt up to stock locations. The only down side to the shortys is that they don't make as much power but it is still a vast improvement over the stock cast pieces.