Rear Drums

[SUX2BU99]

Oh yeah, I got that part done. But I mean to get them separated because I have to get them apart in order to get my old diff out and the new diff installed into the truck right? I posted a couple pics where it looks like they mate.

[SUX2BU99]

I've done some net searching and while I haven't found any pages yet explicitly about these trucks, every page I've read about removing a parking brake cable say to do it right from the brake assembly. So I guess that means I'm going to have to take the brake assembly apart regardless and the connector I've shown pics of is not meant to take apart?

[VileZambonie]

I'm not sure what you are asking. If you are removing the whole rear axle just disconnect the cables at the equalizer.

[ccz145a]

I posted a couple pics where it looks like they mate

If I remember earlier in this post, you have gotten a complete rear end assembly with the parking brake cables cut, so you need to remove these to put your own on.

The pic shows where the outer sheath connects to the backing plate. You need to now find the end of the inner cable which is attached to a lever on the rear shoe.

The only way to get to that lever and remove the cable end is to disassemble the brakes.

Hope this helps!

[SUX2BU99]

Gotcha, I have to remove it from the shoe itself within the brake assembly. I thought maybe I could disconnect it somehow at the joint/connector that I took pics of but that looks like a permanent joint since it's all crimped together.

So taking apart the rear brakes basically is pulling on the springs with pliers or whatever to get the hooks off? And taking good note how it all goes together.

[ccz145a]

And taking good note how it all goes together.

or...

do one side at a time.

or...

have a good picture.

[SUX2BU99]

Yeah I'll just do one side at a time, plus theres the brakes on my truck too for reference. Is it a real pain to yank on those springs to get them to let go or is it relatively easy?  Sometimes it can be hard to know how much force you should be putting into something, especially when it's almost 30 years old.

[ccz145a]

They make a special tool to walk the springs off real easy, If you plan on keeping the truck for a long time. Less than $20. It also assists in putting them back on, which is the real task.

You can get them off pretty easy with a pair of pliers. Remove the little pins that hold the shoes against the backing plate and the whole shebang will collapse with very little effort and the tension will be off the springs.

[SUX2BU99]

Cool, thanks very much to you and to Vile for helping me out so much with this. I appreciate it! I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.

[ccz145a]

btw, your truck looks way better than mine.

[VileZambonie]

Use brake spring pliers



and a hold down spring tool

[ccz145a]

Yep, that's it. I lost mine years ago, but they were really handy. Here's what I used for both tasks:

[SUX2BU99]

Right on, I'll look around for those tools. A good investment I'm sure.

Thanks for the compliment on the truck. I bought it mostly the way it is now but have done improvements here and there.

[SUX2BU99]

Ya know what's disgusting? I have a Canadian Tire (big sports/auto/home/seasonal chain in Canada) and a UAP/NAPA outlet right near my office. Price out the brake spring tool.  Can Tire: $14. NAPA: $31    Jegs: $4.   Price out the hold down tool: Can Tire: $12.50 NAPA: $14  Jegs: $3      Ticks me off......

Oh yeah, I couldn't find a crowfoot wrench except at NAPA and paid $9 for a 3/8x7/16 single wrench  So dumb.

[SUX2BU99]

I got the wrench thing figured out and vound a vendor who had reasonable prices on them.

I've taken apart the pass side brake and took a ton of pics. Fighting against the tension of the springs was the most difficult part. Partially reassembled it just so I can get practice at it, and then bought new shoes, springs and wheel cylinders. Not all of the hard parts come with the new stuff so I'm going to be wire brushing and repainting those pieces.

So in trying to take a wheel cylinder off, I've got a frozen bolt. This diff is just seeming to fight me all the time. Drum wouldn't come off, and then busted a bleeder screw and now this. The other bolt came off with some fighting but it relented. This one won't. I've hammered at the wheel cylinder to loosen the rust and on the bolt head. My 6-point socket is rounding off the edges and the bolt head is fairly mangled. So what can I do? Still try and twist it off, or should I just drill the bolt out?

The bolt passes thru the backing plate into the cylinder thankfully so drilling the bolt out and destroying it and the bolt threads in the cylinder is no big deal since I have replacements. I've never drilled out a bolt before so I should find a drill bit closest as I can to the diameter of the bolt shank, punch a center in the bolt head with an awl, and then just go at it?