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Fuel Systems and Drivability / Re: EFI conversion fuel delivery?
« Last post by Patman on May 14, 2024, 02:22:20 PM »
Hey Shifty, I've considered that but I like the larger capacity dual tank set up. I'll be using it for some hauling so the extra fuel will be nice to have.
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Fuel Systems and Drivability / Re: EFI conversion fuel delivery?
« Last post by Mr Diesel on May 14, 2024, 12:41:58 PM »
Options:

#1. Install a TBI in-tank fuel sender unit and pump, or any aftermarket in-tank pump setup. Make sure the pump meets your Atomic psi requirements. You might need a fuel return line too. Check install instructions.

#2. Leave your carb in-tank fuel sender units and put mechanical pump on the block. Then install a fuel sump and use the mechanical pump to move fuel from tanks to sump where it is then pressurized by electrical pump to TBI unit. Might still need return line, check Atomic.

Some guys go with a higher pressure in-line pump not in the fuel tank or sump, but I don't recommend those because they are notoriously loud and prone to frequent failure.
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Fuel Systems and Drivability / Re: EFI conversion fuel delivery?
« Last post by Shifty on May 14, 2024, 12:26:03 PM »
If I were to do the tank set-up, I'd be converting to the big, rear-mount single tank.  Everything would be clean and new then.  Just me though...
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Fuel Systems and Drivability / EFI conversion fuel delivery?
« Last post by Patman on May 14, 2024, 11:08:01 AM »
85 K10 383 Vortec Stroker - Converting to Atomic EFI  - Fuel delivery questions:

I in unfamiliar territory here. I've eliminated my mechanical fuel pump and am trying to determine the best way to get fuel delivered. The options I'm aware of are:

1. Keep my original tanks but add an in-tank fuel pump that goes to a sump that then goes to the fuel rail/tbi unit


2. Get new tanks/pumps that are designed for EFI conversions

what other options are out there? im sure im missing something. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
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Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc
« Last post by VileZambonie on May 12, 2024, 06:01:10 PM »
The dual exhaust crossmember is 100x better. Stainless, is a waste unless you are tuly doing quality stainless everything. Aluminized is fine.
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Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc
« Last post by Mike81K10 on May 11, 2024, 06:18:34 PM »
Thanks VZ! Having Aluminum heads and such is new to me and it makes me nervous with how much they cost.

I remember when I was about 19 Years old and was working on a Chevy Vega I had bought used. I stripped some bolts while tightening some parts on the engine. I actually had forgotten about that car. My third vehicle I had purchased. I was going to put a 350 engine in it, then decided to just sell it. Body on it was perfect! The engine smoked a little bit but ran.

I removed the exhaust system from my truck today and will begin searching for a stainless steel system to install. I would like to know if anyone knows of a trans cross member for dual exhaust for a 1981 K10 that would work, or if I should even bother with one.
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Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc
« Last post by VileZambonie on May 11, 2024, 05:53:38 PM »
Yes you'll be fine
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Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc
« Last post by Mike81K10 on May 11, 2024, 03:54:38 PM »
What is the opinion on the forum about lifting the engine with the cherry picker by the accessary bolt holes on the sides of the heads (aluminum heads)? Is it really safe or is there a better way of lifting the engine? I am used to cast iron heads and would not even second guess lifting them by the accessary bolt holes. However, aluminum is a different story. I have heard of people lifting with the carb plate on aluminum intakes and I think that is crazy. A straight lift on threads sounds worse that those on the side of the engine. I will soon install my new engine in my truck and am curious if I will be OK using the front and back of the aluminum heads.
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Instrumentation / Re: Another gas gauge/ speedo question.
« Last post by Jimartina on May 10, 2024, 04:48:56 AM »
When the gauge wire is disconnected from the sender with the ignition switched ON, the fuel gauge needle should swing WELL PAST FULL TO THE 3:00 O'CLOCK POSITION.  When you ground the sender wire the gauge should quickly drop to EMPTY.

Did you do this ^^^^^?  This is a grassroots "test" that should tell you whether the fuel gauge is any good.
Yes, I forgot to mention that.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

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Engine/Drivetrain / Re: 357 (350 - .40 Over) Build Questions Etc
« Last post by Mike81K10 on May 09, 2024, 06:30:15 PM »
Did not have much time to get a lot done today. However, I installed my intake and used Loctite 518 Anaerobic Gasket Maker 2096059 with the spray activator on the four corners were the gaskets meet. Usually use Permatex Silicone gasket maker and sealer on that. My valve cover gaskets is a little thick and will need to get some mounting hardware for them, cannot use the OEM I have.
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