1
« Last post by frotosride on July 12, 2026, 08:57:34 pm »
I've had a triple horn manifold and one separate horn with a 13 gallon tank for years and to this day my body still cringes Everytime I touch that switch!! Absolutely my favorite thing I've ever put on any vehicle!!
Years ago when I first got the triple manifold, I stripped them down, cleaned all the casting flash and polished the internals, drilled out every fitting so I had a true 3/8" hole everywhere. I have about $12 in my system but never found a compressor I wanted to afford.
Thinking about an ac compressor setup when I get it back on the road again.
2
« Last post by prider5 on July 12, 2026, 06:31:07 pm »
It starts up fine, getting 6ish psi at the carb, runs good, no issues. After driving for about 10-15 minutes, it starts to starve for fuel. It usually won't completely die if I use very little throttle, but the pressure drops to 0-1 and I can see that the clear filter near the carb is emptying of fuel. Initially I thought it was vapor lock (even though it felt like it was happening very quickly to be that), so I rerouted the fuel lines away from heat. I also replaced the pump because it was weeping, still have the issue.
3
« Last post by Mike81K10 on July 11, 2026, 08:42:02 pm »
Shifty, I believe the 4l80e is an automatic transmission. Correct me if I am wrong! I was wanting to stay with my manual/standard Transmission if possible.
4
« Last post by Mike81K10 on July 11, 2026, 08:38:13 pm »
When you say the tunnel cover would have to be modified for length, are you saying I would have to cut a new hole (move the hole for the shifter or actually the cover itself would need to be lengthened. That of course would mean the floor board as well.
The SM465 has to go eventually because of its limitations on the highway, I still want my ability to off road and tow when needed. I prefer a manual/standard transmission but could go automatic is needed. Any suggestions on the best way to go would be appreciated Captkaos, or anyone else. I am not very knowledgable when it comes to transmissions other than changing out clutches and minor maintenance.
5
« Last post by Captkaos on July 11, 2026, 01:13:50 pm »
cool thanks for the feedback. The X vs X max are much different however: the X Max will do Drive By Wire and Automatic trans control
6
« Last post by Captkaos on July 11, 2026, 01:09:33 pm »
So the truck isn't running at all or or is missing and sputtering? Not really sure what issue you are having.
8
Good Times! I hope 
Well I was working on it with my twin brother but we discovered more problems than solutions. I am trying to get this 1968 C10 that has been off the road since 2001 back on the road.
I got the Inline 6 running after rebuilding the carb and replacing most of the ingnition components and then discovered here was no driveshaft.
Since I wanted to actually drive it, I acquired a T5 and did a Jeep Shaft swap that we had hope to just do a pull and swap. It really didn't work out as planned as we doing discovery on we pulled it apart. The bellhousing required a spacer that I didn't have, the retainer needed to be cut down, along with the pilot. Then there was an issue with 20 year old wheels and no brakes. I spent half the day trying to get fluid to all of the wheels. Needless to say it is still up in the air, literally.
So good times then! Heck Yeah! I miss doin stuff like that!
9
What you did to fix that needs to be in the Technical Pages Section. That affects every square owner on here.
It actually is posted here: Annual Cleaning out the cowl
Nice!
10
« Last post by prider5 on July 10, 2026, 06:01:43 pm »
Thanks for letting me know bd! I can make a new thread if you'd like.
Truck is 1977 K20, with a lot of parts from a 1980 K10. 350 SBC with a 1906 carb, and has dual tanks.
I've been rebuilding the truck, so it currently has 2 new fuel senders (dorman iirc), new tank switching valve, and just recently put a new mechanical fuel pump on (after having fuel delivery issues). I thought maybe the hard line had a hole somewhere, so I recently ran new rubber line from the switching valve up to the engine and made sure I ran it away from heat (thought it was potentially vapor locking), and back when I put the sending units in I ran new rubber lines before the valve as well.
I have a clear filter after the fuel pump before the carb, and I can see it pump fuel well when I first start it, and then after 10 minutes or so of driving the filter runs dry, with what looks like a lot of air bubbles flowing in as it runs out. Been struggling to figure out what the issue is, contemplating just putting an electric pump on it, but it would probably need to be after the switching valve, and I know they are notorious for not wanting to pull fuel and going out, so not sure. I think I tried it without the cap on as Vile suggested, but it's been a bit now and I'm struggling to remember for sure ha. I'll try this weekend if I can find the time to go and test.
|
1
Recent Posts