A major weakness of aftermarket wiring diagrams is that they are generic, attempting to broadly cover too many vehicles. When available, use the factory wiring diagrams that are specific to the year and model vehicle on which you are working. It just so happens that we provide the factory repair and wiring manuals in our Technical Forum (
1982 Factory GM Repair and Wiring Manual; the wiring diagrams are near the back of the manual).
The factory charge lead is 12-gauge, which is adequate for the original alternator capacity and electrical loads. All B+ busses are protected by specifically sized fusible links, not modular fuses. In a properly functioning system, an alternator will charge at high current output (e.g., 75 - 90% of alternator capacity) for only a short time (typically, < 1 minute), quickly tapering down to just compensate for disposable loads plus battery charging (e.g., 15 - 25 amps is typical). The momentary high current output does not last long enough to overheat the alternator or wiring.
Any battery that is severely discharged should NEVER be recharged solely by the vehicle alternator, as this CAN damage both the alternator and wiring through excessive heat production! Use a suitable shop charger for severely discharged batteries.
Because they are still in their infancy, online AI tools may give you wrong indications and raise false alarms. Take AI recommendations with a grain of salt. Once we define the unknowns, I'll recommend proven repair actions that will provide proper and safe function, allowing room for future upgrades should you so choose. The process is methodical.
From what I've observed so far, I think the wiring changes were an attempt to compensate for voltage losses across suspect wiring connections and a slightly increased alternator capacity. Investigation should determine whether the approach taken was sane or SWAG. Only later years used a direct-to-battery charge lead.
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