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« Last post by bd on Today at 04:37:09 pm »
The small hinge pin that retains the auto trans shift lever in the column may be dislodged, loose or worn out. Pin looseness at the lever insertion into the top of the column can cause improper deflection of the neutral safety switch lower on the column.
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« Last post by Shifty on Today at 03:39:22 pm »
Take a quick peek at the mechanical arm as it protrudes from the transmission, the cable end is possibly worn and sloppy.
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« Last post by bd on Today at 02:59:28 pm »
You haven't provided enough information for a reliable answer. Hence, I recommend as a first step that you establish the actual existing condition of the system and major components. For example: - Does the system presently contain any residual refrigerant charge?
- If the system is empty of refrigerant, will it retain >29" Hg of vacuum drawn by a proper HVAC vacuum pump?
- Is the sight glass clean and clear or cloudy and dark?
- Are the Schrader service valves clean and dry or oily? Are the caps installed?
- Is the compressor noisy due to a definite bearing failure or is it just low on charge? Perhaps the drive belt isn't properly tensioned or needs replacement.
- Is the compressor clutch air gap excessive or oily?
- Is there evidence of oil seepage from any hoses, connections, the compressor clutch area, or "visually accessible" major components?
- Are the condenser cooling fins in good shape with unrestricted air flow, or laid over and plugged with debris?
I wouldn't replace the compressor, condenser or evaporator without good reason. Visual removal and inspection of the orifice tube and screen will tell you a lot about compressor internal condition, accumulator desiccant condition, and general system contamination, depending on the debris trapped by the filter screen and whether it has a 'muddy' appearance. The preceding comments aside, regardless of whether major components are replaced, in the scenario that you described, a proper flush using compatible solvent, new o-rings, orifice tube, Schrader valves, and accumulator, followed by the correct amount of fresh ester oil (assuming that you reuse the original compressor), IMHO, is standard minimum procedure. Replace major components only as needed. Others' opinions may vary.
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« Last post by Chanman09 on Today at 12:30:48 pm »
Hello all,
It's been a while since I posted on here, and honestly, it's been a while since I've messed with the ol' square. We had some family excitement and travelling and bought a new house/moved over the past year and it's finally settling down. TLDR section at bottom!
While I was moving, I used my 1985 C20 with 350/350 to take loads of tools and pool parts and trash to the places they needed to go. She ran wonderfully and pulled quite a few big loads flawlessly.
The last trip it made was to my mom's place, where we stored some things and I'm about ready to go grab it and bring it to the new house.
My next little project with the square will be getting the AC system to work. The blower blows and all the switches work. The heater works like a champ. The compressor turns, but it's noisy and the bearing may be on it's way out. I pulled the belt off there, and have been running it without for a year or so.
My initial thought was, 'Hey, I'll slap a new bearing in there, slap some R134 nozzels on there, vaccum, dry and charge it all up and cruise with some AC.
Then I started digging and watching youtube, reading forums etc. So there are some folks that do/say to do exactly as I say and seem to be ok.
But then, there are the folks that change a few things out.
Then, there are the folks that change absolutley everything out.
Now, I'm kinda cheap, but I also don't like doing the same thing over and over because I screwed it up to begin with.
So what do I do?
Currently, my shopping cart online is like $70 with a dryer, hoses, orifice tube, clutch bearing, and o-rings. I will have to add the conversion to 134 kit and cans of r134 to that if I keep it simple.
Do I NEED a new Condenser?
Do I NEED a new compressor?
Do I NEED a new evaporator?
Or can I flush and pray??
Let how deep do I go? (it's a field find. sat for 30 years. not gonna be a show truck. just want to drive and enjoy and not sweat)
TLDR: AC doesn't work and I need to know if I can cheap out and just switch some hoses and drier, or if I need to change all parts and pieces?
Thank you all for the info and opinions!
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I picked up and 81 K10 the other day. When you go to start it you have to pull up on the shifter for it to start. When you grab hold of the auto shifter on the column it is real sloppy. There has to be something loose I am hoping. Can anyone steer me in the right direction to fix this. Thanks so much in advance.
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« Last post by frotosride on August 27, 2026, 03:49:14 pm »
Since you're using a Terminator I figured I'd share a lesson of the day. ..  If you have the latest version, at least V3 Holley made a output test mode. The HP and Dominator have this mode to and the same rule applies. This mode is like using a scan tool for OBD can bus operation of components. It'll allow you to say test the coil or injector driver's from the ECU/Terminator. Lesson: inside the software you can test the fuel pump but nothing tells you that the Holley circuitry is designed to not fire injectors if the fuel pump relay control circuit (really-pins 85/86) doesn't complete a path to ground as a low trigger input for the injector driver's. So basically you have to click the box to turn the fuel pump 'on' or no power for the injectors. I didn't want the draw power the whole time or the possiblity of poring fuel down a cylinder so I pulled the fuse for primary power to keep the fuel pump off. You could pull the relay and put a small resistor as well. Hopefully you don't have to use this feature but if you do, now you know..but will you remember? 
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« Last post by philo_beddoe on August 26, 2026, 04:57:10 pm »
No change! Now what?
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« Last post by frotosride on August 26, 2026, 04:23:06 pm »
I am using a Terminator X Max on my daughters 2011 Mustang that I LS swapped with a 4L60E, I ran out of I/O fast, it only comes with 4 fully programmable inputs and 4 fully programmable outputs.
Yes, the outputs are definitely the things I'd want more on for the basic unit. They do have an I/O expansions that simply plugs in and uses can bus just like the everything else. I just decided to limit myself and not spend the money. At least that'll be one more slightly reliable Trashstang on the road.
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« Last post by philo_beddoe on August 25, 2026, 06:45:44 pm »
Update!!! Close to 10 years since VZ installed my crate GM 350 and did a carb tune up. I have not touched a thing other than a minor choke adjust. Just now getting a rough idle. Accelerates and goes smooth, just a low chuggy idle. Was on vacation for the last 10 days, first noticed when I got back.
Nothing popped off the carb, such as those port caps, pcv valve is still sucking and buzzing. Both filters are dark though, external and the internal one at the front of the 4 bbl quad. Plugs and wires are good, no skippy misfires that I can tell.
Going to start with those two filters and then a carb clean. Anything else?
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« Last post by chevn-up on August 16, 2026, 05:57:01 am »
Man, this is fun. Ok, next in my progression is the bed. Time to wake her up.
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