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« Last post by VileZambonie on March 28, 2026, 01:45:16 pm »
Are you asking if it will siphon itself? You need the pressure differential for it to happen. If you are concerned about flow, perform a fuel volume test from the pump
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« Last post by JohnnyPopper on March 21, 2026, 07:39:29 pm »
For the work involved (not that much) I think I would replace the bolt to see if it's really broken.
I wouldn't even put the nut on at first.
If the motor pitches with the bolt in, then your assumption is correct.
If not, tighten the nut and bolt and go for a ride!
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« Last post by bd on March 21, 2026, 10:19:36 am »
The resolution should be simple, and may be obvious once you direct your attention toward it in this new day. Once you remove the c-cam, pay particular attention to the copper brush that rides up against the cam. With the battery connected, depress the brush a few times using your finger to see what happens.
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« Last post by MY1978 on March 21, 2026, 09:21:27 am »
Was late yesterday when I threw my hands up and said I am done. I am going to try that today. I have some other things to do around the yard, then will go back to that.
Thanks
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« Last post by bd on March 21, 2026, 08:30:39 am »
Either the horn relay control circuit is grounded, or the relay is faulty. Does the horn blow with the lock plate and the cancelling cam removed?
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« Last post by MY1978 on March 21, 2026, 06:49:10 am »
So, I apparently need high caliber brains to fix this. I went to put the steering wheel back on, after trying to clock it, and I noticed that the steering wheel was on upside down, but because the wheels were turned slightly out. So I started the truck, straightened them all without incident except then the horn would not blow. So I pulled the steering wheel off, removed the locking plate and made sure the cancelling cam was seated correctly. Put everything back together and when I went to hook the battery back up, the horn blew. So AGAIN broke it down to the cancelling cam, AGAIN the horn blew. So I decided to try just putting the cancelling cam and locking plate back in place - and the horn blows. WTH!!! it wasn't doing that when I started it to straighten the wheels. Any thoughts or ideas. Prior to this the horn was fine. I was watching some videos and I will check the horn spring and fuse today. I also have all the parts ready to order in my cart from where I have ordered parts from.
1978 Chevrolet, C10, 350,
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« Last post by VileZambonie on March 19, 2026, 05:07:40 pm »
Support the engine, lefty loosey, righty tighty. lift the engine enough to remove and replace.
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« Last post by bd on March 17, 2026, 09:13:30 pm »
Forgot to update y’all ...
...I got everything wrapped after checking new continuity and decided to put a ford style solenoid on the firewall. I debated on this, but I’m not lying about those dang exhaust manifolds. There’s no room for anything and I didn’t want to chance pinching or burning my new fix, so I did the dastardly deed of modifying and using a ford idea on the ol square...
Thank you all for the help!!
I considered this very modification on multiple occasions. Exhaust heat baking the starter would result in labored cranking or no-crank situations. But I found that even minor exhaust leaks from the manifold junction to the cylinder head or a cracked manifold was nearly always the culprit. The solution was to mitigate the leaks by installing new manifolds and bolts, using torquing compound on the threads, the proper torque, and a smear of high temperature copper silicone sealer on the flanges. To remedy heat baking the starter solenoid, I installed a factory heat shield. Cooked wires has always been a problem. The solution there was to replace damaged wires using wire with SXL rated insulation, firmly crimping then soldering terminal ends with 60/40 rosin core solder, and finishing off with marine grade, dual-wall, adhesive lined, polyolefin heat shrink. Foil wrapped, fiberglass split-loom was used around the wire bundle to ensure protection from subsequent radiant heat. Glad you found your solution.
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« Last post by Chanman09 on March 16, 2026, 11:27:16 pm »
Forgot to update y’all
I went out to the truck and started checking grounds. I took a flappy wheel and hit the alternator bracket for the main ground and also the frame and block in the front part of the engine bay.
I jacked up the truck to follow my red cable to the starter and checked it was clear of any pinches or frays. It was fine.
I then went to checking starter connections.
Poor little fusible links fell off in my hand. They looked like drowned worms when you fish without catching anything. They’re from 1986. And they sat in a field from 1996 until 2023. And I’ve dropped and replaced the starter more times than I’d like to remember over my tenure due to numerous reasons, but the main one being exhaust manifold problems.
I got up top and pulled the metal tube that houses all those wires that go down there and checked continuity between the new end if the wires and the junction area where the wires parted ways.
I got out the ol soldering iron and shrink wrap and found the right gauge wire to make new fusible links. The tricky one was the Y shaped link that was just a pain to get soldered solid. I needed an extra hand.
I got everything wrapped after checking new continuity and decided to put a ford style solenoid on the firewall. I debated on this, but I’m not lying about those dang exhaust manifolds. There’s no room for anything and I didn’t want to chance pinching or burning my new fix, so I did the dastardly deed of modifying and using a ford idea on the ol square. I know…I know. Please limit your vegetables being thrown to soft tomatoes.
I double checked that everything worked a few times and mounted the wires in a more eyeball friendly manner and haven’t had any issues yet.
I got a newer, larger fire extinguisher to carry in the cab, and I’m glad the old links did their job.
Thank you all for the help!!
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« Last post by fiddler on March 12, 2026, 01:27:10 pm »
So you think the fuel should just flow out of the fuel line when I disconnect the fuel pump at the engine?
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