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General Discussion / Re: Happy Spring Everyone...
« Last post by JohnnyPopper on Today at 01:20:27 pm »
Was there a difference in the hood between those years? I have an 80 with front detail that is not on your beast. Embossed detail is the best way to describe. I'm sure bd has a more precise term  ;D ;D
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General Discussion / Re: Happy Spring Everyone...
« Last post by VileZambonie on May 09, 2026, 07:34:07 pm »
79
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Steering Columns / Re: Horn honks when hooking up to battery
« Last post by MY1978 on May 09, 2026, 05:33:00 pm »
Thanks, I will try that.
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Steering Columns / Re: Horn honks when hooking up to battery
« Last post by bd on May 09, 2026, 03:58:27 pm »
Here's another thought.  With the lock plate flipped upside-down, nestle the c-cam into its normal position against the lock plate in the same way the parts would be assembled in the column.  Does any part of the c-cam brass contact ring touch the lock plate?
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Steering Columns / Re: Horn honks when hooking up to battery
« Last post by bd on May 09, 2026, 02:23:24 pm »
Responses embedded...

Quote from: MY1978 on May 09, 2026, 01:38:06 pm
WOW!!!  Thanks so much.  You're welcome!

1.  I kinda thought that the "protector" was some type of insulator.  Funny that it wasn't on the original or the 1st replacement.  Maybe that is what was causing the problem since the one I was replacing did not have the insulator ring.  The insulator ring was added as insurance at some later point in production, though I never encountered a situation where it was necessary.

2.  I didn't even think about moving the contact pin.  Wow!!  feeling stupid about now.   :-\  Next crazy question is should I use the old spring or the new spring.  Personal preference.

3.  Yes, the compression spring is in place.

4.  Yes, locking plate is being installed correctly.  Trust me, out of frustration I tried to see if it could be installed the other way.  It cannot!  Thanks.  I really didn't suppose it would.  Seems to me I ran the same experiment some 40+ years ago - lol.

5.  Will try pressing the c-cam.  That spring is so strong, I don't want to break the c-cam.  You won't be able to depress the c-cam more than about 1 mm by hand w/o imparting damage.  The better idea is to look at it and all the connecting parts as you fit things together slowly.  Watch for the changes in the proximity of pieces as the plate is compressed.  At what stage of plate compression does the horn complain?  Why?  What made contact?

Thank you so much for the pictures and taking the time to explain things.  I will update at a later date.  Look forward to it.
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Steering Columns / Re: Horn honks when hooking up to battery
« Last post by MY1978 on May 09, 2026, 01:38:06 pm »
WOW!!!  Thanks so much. 

1.  I kinda thought that the "protector" was some type of insulator.  Funny that it wasn't on the original or the 1st replacement.  Maybe that is what was causing the problem since the one I was replacing did not have the insulator ring.
2.  I didn't even think about moving the contact pin.  Wow!!  feeling stupid about now.   :-\  Next crazy question is should I use the old spring or the new spring.
3.  Yes, the compression spring is in place.
4.  Yes, locking place is being installed correctly.  Trust me, out of frustration I tried to see if it could be installed the other way.  It cannot! 
5.  Will try pressing the c-cam.  That spring is so strong, I don't want to break the c-cam.

Thank you so much for the pictures and taking the time to explain things.  I will update at a later date.





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Steering Columns / Re: Horn honks when hooking up to battery
« Last post by bd on May 09, 2026, 12:56:07 pm »
  • The "protector" on the top side of the c-cam is an insulator that prevents unwanted grounding of the three locking tabs that protrude through the plastic cam from the contact ring below.  Leave the insulator in place.



  • The c-cam towers  ^^^^^  should have identical heights.  Rather than cutting the new aluminum contact pin to length, transfer the pin and retainer from the old c-cam.  Don't forget to install the compression spring below the pin.

  • "...it is when the locking plate is in place that the horn blows."  Whether or not you stated this before, it is new information to me.  Forgive me, but since I'm not peering over your shoulder as you work, did you reinstall the stiff compression spring below the c-cam?  (Although the following images are from a tilt column, the concepts are the same as a standard column).



    I don't know whether it is even possible, but are you installing the locking plate upside down?  This is how it should appear installed...



  • As you reinstall and assemble parts, take your time and watch very carefully for any place where the c-cam brass contact ring might touch other metal parts that are grounded.  Make sure the turn signal switch cancelling springs are intact, in place, and not distorted (see below and very bottom images).  Similarly, check the flat springs of the turn signal detent and four-way flasher switch.  Longshot: Imagine yourself miniaturized inside the assembled mechanism, looking around.  Now, try to conceptualize where you might accidentally come into contact with an adjacent metallic ground.  (No jeering.  For some people, this approach works surprisingly well.)



  • Assemble to just short of installing the locking plate.  Press the c-cam downward against spring pressure to hear whether the horn honks.



  • Refering to the last image for clarity, pressing the "contact ring brush" downward was to determine whether its backplate had dislodged, allowing the horn wire to touch ground underneath the switch, where unseen.
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General Discussion / Re: Happy Spring Everyone...
« Last post by JohnnyPopper on May 09, 2026, 11:50:22 am »
Whitey looks like a sleeper  8)

What year, 79, or 80?
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Steering Columns / Re: Horn honks when hooking up to battery
« Last post by MY1978 on May 09, 2026, 09:36:05 am »
OK bd, I took every thing down to turn signal, connected the battery and depressed the button about 10 times.  Nothing.
I have replaced the relay, just to be on the safe side.  I have broken this down and reassembled multiple times and it is when the locking plate is in place that the horn blows.

Now, I also ordered a new cancelling cam.  It has a protector? on the top of it - my other one did not and I do not think the original had it.  I have not removed it.  Before I go further, please look at these pictures.  The new c-cam pin is much longer than the old one and when depressed is still sticking up a little. 

Question now, before I start reassembling is - should I cut the pin down to the same length as the old one?

Thanks for all your help.
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Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning (HVAC) / Re: Kick Panel Vent Delete
« Last post by VileZambonie on May 08, 2026, 03:57:52 pm »
Why? The original pieces are also designed to deflect water draining from the cowl so it doesn't cascade into the cab.
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