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Seats and Restraints / 91 Suburban Seats and Console in a 78 C20
« Last post by 78 Chevyrado on Today at 12:40:34 am »
How to set the height of the front of your seats if you put 1991 suburban seats and console in your 70s C20 with a small hump  Got to get the front center floor brackets out of the suburban with the seats and console.

Had to bend the rear of the tracks upwards to fit the upward angle of the pickups floor, suburbans have flat floors.  bent them up, bolted them down but the front of the seat is way too low.

This is how I decided how high to make the front of the seats.  I used long bolts with nuts as spacers.  keep trying different amounts of nuts to space it higher or lower.  I'm 6'2" so this is what worked for me.  Once you've driven it a while and its comfortable, make the permanent brackets in the shape of the originals but taller.  There ya go.

Also notice on the console how I spaced it up higher for the pickup trucks floor vs the suburban it came out of.  everything will be leaned way down in the front.  lift all the fronts as much as you like to make the console level and the seats comfortable, so it supports you and your hips don't feel like disintegrating after 50 miles.  Seats leaned too far forward are pure torture.

1st pic is console set like i wanted it using long bolts and a piece of pipe/tubing to set the height and then using nuts as spacers to decide the final height of the seat front.  you can see the super short brackets above the nut spacers.  I copied that bracket just made it taller.  seat sits a few inches taller than the bench seat so no more feeling like your butts dragging the ground...  its more like sitting in a chair which is helpful for tall people.  8)

2nd and 3rd pic is the finished brackets at the height the bolts set for me.

4th pic is how they look from the top seats vs console level

5th pic after raising the console I was able to hide the amplifier underneath it.

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General Discussion / Re: 20 years
« Last post by 78 Chevyrado on August 01, 2026, 11:55:42 pm »
Today:  A/C cools good enough at idle to make the windows sweat like a coke can.  It'll freeze you out on max going down the freeway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejjaXG5cwa4

I did the Sanden swap on the compressor.  Buy whatever kit you like to mount a Sanden Compressor to your SBC.  First two cheap off brand compressors died within months.  Got a real Sanden and HD unit #4618HD.  Got to learn how things work and why and read all the specs of everything.  In short, more capacity than the usual recommended Sandens.  Get a REAL Sanden that has a GV head cover on the back.  A GV head will connect to the stock lines on a (my only experience) 78 Chevy C20.  I assume it will connect the same to any C-series that has the original big Harrison A6.  Had to shorten the hard line to the condenser about an inch so I cut the line and put an inline filter there.  Did that not because I needed the filter, just because it was the easiest way to shorten the stock line with seals compatible with the Refrigerant and Oils.  Other change was to use a ford expansion valve PN#F5XZ-19D990-AB.  Got that R-134 system way closer than it ever was to R-12 cooling levels with the old Harrison compressor.

I always use Chemours R-134a with zero additives.  I only use Chemours because I know they don't cheap out and add stuff we don't need.  Those self sealing cans work great.  Got one I last used 4 years ago and it hasn't lost any gas since then.


Alternator is a Mechman 170 amp Racing alternator for 63-85 GM - Natural Finish  It costs a lot initially, but it costs less than buying cheap repops over n over again. 

For the pulley set on it.  get the pulleys off of an 87 TBI truck or some earlier TPI Camaros.  I only got this idea because I had an 87 V8 truck and it had this odd pulley set.  The pulleys are exactly the same as normal v belt pulleys EXCEPT the alternator belt is a 5 rib serpentine.  Makes all the difference if you need more than stock charging.
I bought the underdrive set because they are machined properly.  the stock stamped set I had before was way out of round and that made the alternator jump all around and act weird.  after I got this set I don't notice any less on the power steering, but the ac only makes the engine drop less than 100rpm vs stock the ac made the engine drop almost 200rpm at idle.

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General Discussion / Re: What's your Daily Fleets
« Last post by 78 Chevyrado on August 01, 2026, 11:34:53 pm »
1983 gmc 1500 suburban 6.2 liter diesel
1983 ford exp
1969 thunderbird 2 door landau all original

Can we see the Tbird?   8)
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General Discussion / Re: What's your Daily Fleets
« Last post by 78 Chevyrado on August 01, 2026, 11:34:26 pm »
Man, you're lucky to be alive.

My particular guardian angel apparently doesn't mind overtime.
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Exhaust / Re: Quiet muffler recommendation
« Last post by philo_beddoe on August 01, 2026, 11:45:04 am »
I had Walker Turbo mufflers installed last year. They are reasonable quiet. I was wanting mufflers that did not have a lot of drone noise. These have a little but not near as much as the Flowmasters. Not sure if made in the USA, but they are located in Monroe, Michigan.
Thanks, will check it out…
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Exhaust / Re: Quiet muffler recommendation
« Last post by Rapid Roy on August 01, 2026, 11:39:30 am »
I had Walker Turbo mufflers installed last year. They are reasonable quiet. I was wanting mufflers that did not have a lot of drone noise. These have a little but not near as much as the Flowmasters. Not sure if made in the USA, but they are located in Monroe, Michigan.
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Exhaust / Quiet muffler recommendation
« Last post by philo_beddoe on August 01, 2026, 11:18:46 am »
Looking for a high quality USA made super quiet muffler for my stock single exhaust application. I’m talkin sewing machine quiet….  Thanks!
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General Discussion / Re: Happy Spring Everyone...
« Last post by philo_beddoe on August 01, 2026, 11:14:53 am »
Well now it’s happy summer, and nearly happy fall…lol
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Body, Glass & Paint / Re: Surface rust
« Last post by jdub22 on July 30, 2026, 04:41:40 pm »
Hello and thanks for the response. I’ve looked at some of the patina products and it’s definitely a cool look. I’m not looking for high gloss/shiny. Just kinda something to spruce up the dull areas and prevent the rust from worsening.

I’ll check out the sweet patina product. I do love the fully restored look, all shiny and new looking, but don’t think it’s for me and this truck. I like the idea of it showing its years and experience.  Just like me, lol.

I’m assuming the scrub, CLR, and wax delays rust by blocking direct contact of the metal with water?

For the undercarriage, I was leaning towards a lanolin product, based purely on a convincing argument I read somewhere about its ability to not chip and flake and “self heal.”  I guess the drawback is gumming it up for future repairs/work underneath? 


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