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Quote from: frotosride on February 23, 2016, 06:27:11 PMThis is exactly what I did since the passenger switch received power from the drivers switch. The only issue is that there has to be a diode in both passenger relays but only on the wires coming from the driver's side switch. Otherwise there will be feed back and blow the fuse.Only, that isn't what you did. Referring to your diagram, by connecting the driver (master) switch directly to the right window relays (R3 and R4), you rewired the master and passenger switches into a crossed circuit configuration. That configuration shunts power directly to ground through the master switch when the passenger switch is actuated - hence, the need for isolation diodes. You introduced the complication when you added the two jumpers between the tan and dark blue/white wires from the master switch and R3/R4. If you hadn't jumpered the driver switch to R3 and R4, but instead, simply rerouted the power leads that connect to the right motor directly to the R3 and R4 relay control terminals and allowed the driver switch to operate the passenger window motor through the passenger window switch, the short circuit never would have occurred.
This is exactly what I did since the passenger switch received power from the drivers switch. The only issue is that there has to be a diode in both passenger relays but only on the wires coming from the driver's side switch. Otherwise there will be feed back and blow the fuse.
Thanks Vile. And if I'm understanding this right, the 4 relays are being put in to provide power to both sides of each motor, so that they go up and down. The window switch then just becomes the trigger for each relay, depending on whether the switch is operated in the up and down position.Diodes as I recall are for allowing power to flow only 1 way, like a check valve on a pipe....
...I'm curious where the diodes need to go.