73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Members Rides => Topic started by: 1980c10 on May 29, 2009, 03:42:40 AM
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Here is my project. It is a 1980 c10 2wd, swb, 4 speed, 250 inline 6, custom deluxe. I had picked this up in completly originial untouched condition from the originial owner. It has most of the originial paint on the frame(about 80-90%) so this was not something that I felt the body needed to be removed for restoration. I have since replaced the interior/stereo (except door panels and seat belts). I was able to restore the door panels and seat belts with dye. I have also found a near mint cond bench seat from a '92 in the correct color that works nicely. I have added some new rims and a new set of 275/60/15's. I have also replaced many front end parts and most of the suspension including about a 2/4 drop(a little more in the back since the pic) it is currently in the middle of getting some new bcc met paint('03mitsubishi thunder gray) I have also added a roll pan in the rear and have since painted the middle of the grille black and have polished or replaced all of the chrome that I will reuse. I will have the windows slightly tinted after the paint is done. I am also currently having a bed cover made to fit this truck. This website has been a wonderfull resource for me to get ideas as I plan this restoration. I am sure that I have left many things out that I have done. 1 picture is how I got the truck. 1 is midway and 1 pic is of the interior the way it was when I got it. I will post more pics when it is done. Any feedback/ideas are very welcome. thank you
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/n1537832444_805865_777297.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/f2a1_12.jpg)
http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/50df_12.jpg
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Welcome aboard and man i like that truck as its got the round headlights compared to the square headlights.. You plan on dropping in a 350???
thanks
pat
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Welcome, truck looks good. Those tires and wheels really look sharp on it.
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Welcome, truck is looking good and those wheels do look great on there!
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Welcome to the site!
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Welcome to the site!
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Welcome. Nice lookin' truck.
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Great looking truck, post interior pics when you get a chance. Welcome from NW Indiana
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Welcome from Maryland. Cool looking shortbed! The wheel and tire combo look great!
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Thanks for the welcome. I was surprised at how well the wheel and tire combo works when put on the truck. They look so plain off of the truck. For now I will keep the inline six as it runs great and doesn't leak or seep a drop of anything and has just over 50k on it. As soon as the 6 gives up it will definatley get a small block, but for now I will enjoy the mpg. I will definatley post more pics when the paint work is done. it is currently sanded down to bare metal and the front clip is off and the box is off but it should be going back together fairly soon. i hope to have it finished in 2-3 weeks I will wait until that is done before I re-install the door panels and windshield and get some updated pics of the interior and all of the rest. But for now here is a pic of how the interior was when I got it.
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/50df_12.jpg)
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I picked this 1980 C10 in januarary in nice originial condition in januarary of this year I have so far taken care of the mechanical issues and lowered 2" in the front and about 2-4" in the rear added some wheels and tires and have replaced a lot of the interior. I have some pics of the truck, some when I picked it up and some during this process.
Here it is as I picked it up
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/f2a1_12.jpg)
Interior the way I got it.
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/50df_12.jpg)
Exterior after the mechanical work, trim removed, front is lowered, rear is lowered but it is now a little lower in the rear than in the pic and wheels and tires
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/n1537832444_805865_777297.jpg)
here is the engine before, sorry no after pics yet,but it is cleaned up, tuned up and painted etc. runs like a champ.
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/4fba_12.jpg)
Here are somepics of its current status it is actually a lot further than it looks Have one boxside left to patch, rollpan to weld in and a cab corner to replace, then paint, fenders inner fenders, cab mounts one boxside have been put in along with other minor repairs,stake pockets have also been filled. (sorry about the sideways pics)
(http://[http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/100_1271.jpg/img]
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/100_1263.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/100_1262.jpg)
The color will be a dark gray bccc. (almost black)
I will update pics as progress is made
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/100_1266.jpg)
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Nice truck and it looks like your well on your way to having it just the way you want it!
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Sweet looking shortwide!
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Lookin' good.
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Nice project... what size are the wheels/tires and what kind of drop did you do?
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wheels are 15 x 8's i dont remember the tire size but i'll have to check for you later. the front was lowered 2" by lowering springs only. the rear was dropped using shackles and removing some leaves from the spring pack. this was also done to smooth out the ride. i would guess about 3" total in the rear.
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I don't know that I've seen too many 2wd trucks with the granny-low tranny.
Cool!
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Coming along great!! Nice truck for sure. What gears in the rear end?
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wheels are 15 x 8's i dont remember the tire size but i'll have to check for you later. the front was lowered 2" by lowering springs only. the rear was dropped using shackles and removing some leaves from the spring pack. this was also done to smooth out the ride. i would guess about 3" total in the rear.
They look like 275/60's.. can you post more pics? Looks good to me.
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The gears are not listed on the option sheet but i would guess maybe 3.73's I can take it down the interstate at about 70mph with the engine running pretty fast. (by sound, no tach). The tires are 275/60's, nice eye Tony. I won't have any more pics until the body work is done as the interior and engine are covered in sheets and dust. The body work on the bed is done the stake pockets have been filled and the roll pan is welded in and smoothed. i'm waiting on my third fender because the other two were defective and the one cab corner needs to be welded in. the (current) engine is the originial 250 inline 6 cyl. It only has 53,000 miles so it will stay for now. I have it running very nicely and cleaned it up so it looks nice and is a little unexpected in this truck. I kind of like it anyway but i will get the itch for speed one of these days. The interior is also nearly done.
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I dug up some more old pics. I will also get a few more recent pics up as soon as i get a chance.
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/4f15_12.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/4db2_12.jpg)
I'm on my 3rd fender on this side trying to get a decent one the other side was a perfect fit the 1st time
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/100_1267.jpg)
here is pic of the front end going together with new inner and outer fenders. hood doors and rockers are cab mounts and cab corners have been replaced floors are originial. I have a very small tolerance for rust I think most people would have not replaced the fenders and the corners did not have hole through but one side was thin and a little rust through starting on the cab mounts. (the door is slightly open in this pic) this the fender i have been having trouble with. i know they are bad pieces because the door and hood are originial. the second one fit nice but was wavy. it kind of look like someone step on it or something.
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/100_1260.jpg)
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Trade ya even up?
Welcome from IL
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here are some updated pics of my project. it is now completely painted, just needs a some sanding and buffing to smooth out the clear. the bed is also done. i just don't have photos of it yet. the stake pockets have been filled and a roll pan added. the pic quality is not very good. I just got a new camera and haven't figured out the settings yet.the truck is actuallly a very dark gray color, not black as it appears in some photos.
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/100_1263.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/Picture012.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/Picture011.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/Picture004.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/Picture002.jpg)
(http://)
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Good looking truck.
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Its comming right along
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sweet
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Thank you for the kind words. Can't wait to get it all together even though I can't drive it due to salty roads. everything is ready to be put back together, nothing to buy, polish or repair since my painter has had it since spring I have had only some parts of it to work on at home and ordered everyting else I needed.
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Took some more pics to update the progress. I can't quite figure out the new camera so the pic quality is not too good. the truck is also a little lower in the back since the previous pics.
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/070.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/072.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/097.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/069.jpg)
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I love that color!
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very nice.BTW you said the 6 has 50k does the whole truck only have 50k on it :o
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The drivetrain is originial to the truck, never rebuilt except for the carb when I got it, just had to do that, replace the valve cover gasket some vacuum lines and tune up stuff to get it running right. the title was signed over to me from the originial owner dated back to dec of '79 when he bought the truck new. he had never touched anything on the truck right down to the originial am radio. never any bodywork or anything. everything backs up his claim of 53,000 originial mile including the 800.00 selling price. his wife bought a new trailblazer and wanted the garage space so he tried to get it up and running again. so all new belts, hoses, brake hoses and fluids were all freshly changed. he came close but failed on the carb rebuild as the accelerator pump was out when I got it.
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Great color, and only 50M. That's going to be a sweet truck. I like the 6/ 4 sp combo, kinda unique - I'd leave it.
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I took the truck for a drive today for the first time in over a year. it is mostly together I installed the nicer rims and tires, grille, door handles, mirrors and some other odds and ends. At first it didn't want to run very good. but after a few miles she cleared right up and runs great. brakes were a little sticky too at first. It was good to get out of my ford and get into something a little classier. tommorow I need to install the door panels and bed cover. and do some serious dusting of the engine and interior. I will try to post some more pics this weekend. As far as the inline 6-4 speed combo they are staying, they are originial to the truck, just not a ton of power but work great for getting around town.
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here are some updated pics.
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/1.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/2.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/3.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/4.jpg)
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Slick!
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Awesome!
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Here are some updated pictures: more ideas are welcomed and thank to all of you who have helped with your advice and postings, It definatley made it a lot easier.
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0399.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0382.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0344.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0389.jpg)
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Looks great!!!
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Very nice truck, What color is that?
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awesome looking truck, what is that seat from?
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The seat us from a '90 chevy work truck, the color is an '03 mitsubishi thunder gray.
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was there any special modification you had to do to get it in there?
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I used the old seat bracket. The back holes line up and I drilled two holes in the front bolted the bracket to the seat and then bolted it back in the truck. I couldn't believe how easy it was to get it in there. It is very comfortable and gives me a lot more room then the old seat. I will try to get some better pictures of the seat if you would like.
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if you could that would be awesome it looks like just what i want to do to my truck
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Very cool! Short wides rock!!!
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here are some pics of the seat for heavychevy91 and some other misc pics.
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0428.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0429.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0431.jpg)
[imghttp://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0438.jpg]http://[/img]
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0440.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0445.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0440.jpg)
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i wonder how hard it would be to get mud off that carpet ;D sometimes i wish mine look that clean but then i wouldn't try to get it dirty or maybe as dirty
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i pretty much have to vacuum it almost every time i drive it to keep it that clean. so its never actually been dirty
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I'm not sure if I should include this all in one project post but that's how I am going to complete the project so here is the beginning.
there will be some questions along the way.
transmission is rebuilt and waiting in my garage.
engine is rebuilt and also waiting in my garage.
we are in the dead of winter here, so my truck is in storage so I can park other vehicles in its spot. i will get it out sometime in the next few weeks depending on the weather. In the meantime I will finish the engine details. the specs can be found on my previous thread "350 build".
my goal is to make this a very clean install and also be ready for the first good cruising weekend.
I am considering removing fenders or possibly the front clip entirely. for the record this truck doesn't have a scratch and I really want to keep it that way. How difficult will it be to reinstall the fenders and hood and get them straight as they are now-toughts on this?
currently the largest challenges should be converting the clutch to hydraulic from mechanical linkage
the other will be the speedometer and my short amount of time to do this.
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On my 82 and the 77, I just popped the hood off and slid the motor and trans out. Get some fender blankets, too. Just my opinion.
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forgot to add that the backs of the fenders were Painted body color with the rest of the truck, i also want to clean and partially smooth the firewall and hide or eliminate any wiring that I can. I pretty much want this to be nice-show ready quality if possible. I kind of don't want to have to climb over fenders or the radiator to do this. almost everything will be painted at a minimum some stuff will be removed other stuff will just be moved.
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Maybe could make some marks with a grease pencil. I had most of the front clip off on my 77 when I put new fenders on. It's not too bad, just tedious
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I've had the motor in and out of my camaro (and other Chevy's) more times than i can count. I think your best bet would be to do as Layne suggested, just remove the hood after marking the hinges and use fender blankets. I've done this many times and never had any damage.
Personally I would be more worried scratches/chips caused by removing and re installing the front clip (I have run into problems doing that).
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I also want to repaint the inner fenders the header panel firewall and pretty much everything from the firewall forward. the grille will be coming out for this as well. so i am thinking it will be easiest to just remove the fenders as well intead of trying to protect them, mask them etc.
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Some progress made;
I brought the truck home to begin the engine and trans swap today.
I removed the 250, drive shaft, clutch linkage etc pretty much everything except the crossmember.
To start the clean up, I removed the washer fluid tank and hoses and they will not be going back in.
I also hid the entire head light wiring harness inside of the header panel and inside of the fender.
For the battery i will turn it around so the post are pointed toward the header panel and run longer cables inside of the header panel and inside of the frame along with the wiring from the starter, I installed a mid mount alt bracket to keep the wires low and they should be hidden fairly well.
I removed the heater box as well along with some other items on the fire wall
I want to install a newer fan from a 94 chev, Is this the right year to get?
What is a good way to remove the tar like rubber coating on the firewall?
btw I am leaving the fenders on.
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Made some more progress this weekend. I removed the transmission, crossmember, I also ran a new fuel line on the engine, mounted the alternator, starter, new pulleys and some other misc parts.
I also took some photos of where I am at as of now.
A little fuzzy because they are from my cell phone.
heres a pic coming out of storage
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/t3.jpg)
some pics of the underhood clean up
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0227111801c.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0227111801b.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0227111801a.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0227111801.jpg)
I made some covers from rubber to cover between the inner fender and frame rail
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0227111800a.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0227111800.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0227111759.jpg)
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I want to install a newer fan from a 94 chev, Is this the right year to get?
That's what I used, and it works great. If you can, bring your old one with you and compare. They should be dimensionally the same, but the newer motor must have more windings in the motor, and it comes with the new plastic fan.
That truck is clean and beautiful.
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super nice!
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Grim-I got the 94 fan and it is too deep for the housing, I don't have a/c so maybe that's where I went wrong. Anyway I am going to the u pull it yard and i will look for a deeper housing.
I am also looking for a hood cable that is long enough to pull through the fender and header panel, How are newer cables than my 80's routed? (Mine lays across the inner fender).
I'm also getting a hydraulic clutch pedal assembly out of an '85 so i can convert mine.
Up next after the clutch cylinder install will be paint.
Then the rebuilt engine will be bolted in. (the one I said i wasn't going to do)
Then I will complete the 5 speed install.
Once that is hooked up I want to do a lot of rewiring to clean it up.
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Today, I enjoyed a day off of work and made it out to the u pull it yard.
I ended up grabbing a longer hood cable from a dodge truck-going to try it anyway.
I have the clutch and brake pedal assembly from an '85 c10
I also grabbed the brake booster, master cylinder and clutch cylinder from the same '85.
I also found a pretty decent radiator shroud from an 86.
anyone know how much if any of this will be a direct bolt in?
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On my 82 the hood release cable is also pretty much just draped across the inner fender. Not sure about the radiator shroud, but I know the radiator mounting brackets and the supports are different from an 80 to an 86.
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That truck is super slick!
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It looks as though the clutch/brake pedal assembly is identical as far as bolting into the truck. If I am right I will just have to drill the mounting holes for the clutch cylinder.
The one on the left is the hydraulic linkage assembly..on the right is the manual linkage assembly
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/5226953763_273919943d_b.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/5227549232_fcfffa826a_b.jpg)
Not my truck but this the mounting location from the inside of the cab
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/5236323148_94c1a81cf1_b.jpg)
I also grabbed the brake booster and master cylinder from the 85 as it is a better looking set up than my own.
I will buy a new clutch cylinder, slave cylinder and just build a line to connect the two.
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update:
clutch pedals were a direct bolt in from the 85, had to remove the steering column to do this.
drilled three holes for the clutch cylinder and installed along with the reservoir and line.
everything under the hood is painted and going back together.
With the battery installed-post toward front of vehicle. I have run my battery cables through the header panel and inside of the frame
(hidden from sight) I used a 78" pos cable and a 36" neg cable for those who may want to do this
I installed the heater box with the '94 blower motor with slight modification and the fan blade from the '80.
tomorrow I will install the steering column, brake booster, master cylinder and lines from the master cylinder.
I really need a wiring diagram for the engine (1980) I've searched and couldn't find one anyone have a link?
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If you're into cleaning up under the hood, you might consider an electric fan...
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If you're into cleaning up under the hood, you might consider an electric fan...
This will probably happen later this year. Just not yet I am pretty busy with a new job starting and still trying to quit my old job and I want to have this back on the road by the end of next month and have a long way to go.
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Holy jeebus! Beautiful truck! I am jealous, man!
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Here are some updated pics as of last weekend.
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0313111344a.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0313111345.jpg)
this the master cylinder and booster out of the '85
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0313111345b.jpg)
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btw I found the wiring diagrams
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0313111346a.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0313111346.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0313111344a.jpg)
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I decided today to go with an electric fan, I will install it between the radiator and grill.
I had a snow day from work today and have gotten a few things done.
I modified power steering bracket to work with the headers. Had a ton of trouble with this; someone had broken bolt on the brackets on the pump from my parts truck and had drill and hammer them off.
here is a pic after I painted it and modified the bracket that bolts to the header.
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0323111346.jpg)
replaced the brake lines from the master cylinder
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0323111343a.jpg)
gear reduction starter and spark plug wires routing
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0323111403.jpg)
homemade bracket for the wires
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0323111348.jpg)
looking for opinions on this; it is the inline 6 radiator shroud stretched for the bigger radiator. Should i finish this or make something else?
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0323111344c.jpg)
here is another pic of the engine, I will order a new power steering pully and the cone for the water pump
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/0323111402.jpg)
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Sweet truck! Why a 94' blower motor? Does it blow harder? If so I want to do the same to my 84'
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Sweet truck! Why a 94' blower motor? Does it blow harder? If so I want to do the same to my 84'
They do. I run each motor off the battery; the 94 seemed more than double than the originial 80.
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Cool! I'll have to check that out.
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Excellent work on the plug wires!
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Excellent work on the plug wires!
Thanks, It was actually cheaper and easier than running them over the valve covers and making them look good.
My next dist cap will be a "corrected firing order" cap, that way I will be able to bring the wires to each side cleanly.
Also I decided not to run a hood cable at all, I will show that set up when I take pics of my electric fan/cooling set up.
The fan will be a "puller"
My headlight wiring is done and so are the battery cables
I am still looking for opinions on the radiator shroud
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I can't find the thread now but have you seen the electric fan enclosure that Vile made? If you have the means to make one I would go that route. It really cleaned up the engine bay.
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If you have electric fans, I don't see a need for a shroud, IMO.
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My fan will not be seen as I will mount it in front of the radiatior(between the radiator and grille), it is a 16 inch fan. I will reverse the blade so it pulls the air through the radiator, there will be no functional shroud. I will use an adjustable t-stat.
does anyone know any reasons this might not work?
I am thinking about using the shroud that was used with the inline 6.
I stretched it 2 inches to fit the new radiator (look on page 5 for the pic).
the shroud only holds the radiator in place it does not continue down the side..etc.
It only covers the top of the radiator, you can see all of it in the pic and it is mounted in place.
I do have mig welder so I can make something different.
I have seen viles pic of the fan set up. It looks good but like I said i am wanting to mount my fans in front.
That is what I would do but my fan happens to fit nicely in front, so why not.
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Aren't the radiator mounts seperate from the shroud?
If you run the fan in front wouldn't that be a push type? You will want it to work with the oncoming turbulence rather than against it. But I agree, I don't see where a shroud would be required with that setup.
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It would be "push." You shouldnt have to reverse the blades, just flip the wires; but check with the manufacturer first.
A shroud doesnt hold the radiator in place on our trucks. That is what the top plate is for. It gets bolted into those 4 holes on the core support.
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The piece I have act as both a shroud and hold the radiator in place, this would have only been used on an inline 6 engine.
my only question is wether to use it or not for cosmetic reasons it functions great.
Does it look OK?
The manufacturer's instructions say to flip the blade, it is real easy.
Grim- I believe I would want to pull the air out from under the hood otherwise it would blow hot air off the radiator right on to the engine.
Anyone do this?
keep the feedback coming please.
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pulling the air out of the engine compartment wont drop your temps any more than the normal way. You will put strain on your fan motor because your fan will be on while you are moving forward, unless you have a on/off switch to use. I dont recommend that because it only takes one time to forget to turn it on. Plus, you will be too focused on what temp the engine is and waiting to turn the fan on when it needs to come on that you will be distracted from driving. Food for thought.
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I understand what you're saying. What about vapor lock etc.? Also you need your fan most when you are idling. I am going to check my cars electric fan to see which way it blows.
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You could replace the shroud/mount with mounting brackets for a V8 equipped 73-80 that fits your radiator and ditch the shroud, or you could keep it as is. From the pic it doesn't look like an eyesore, and it's ultimately your preference. I don't think you need the shroud for proper functioning though.
You want your fan, whether it pushes from the front or pulls from the back, to draw air in the same direction as the wind force that you will encounter while driving. The radiator gets the brunt of the cooling effect being in front, and then the air flows through the engine compartment and out under the vehicle. Like beastie said, that residual airflow around the motor won't have a dramatic effect on operating temp.
By the way I like what you did with the power steering pump bracket.
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Grim, I believe you are correct sir, after some googling, the general reasoning is that it pulls cool air over the radiator. The air that passes through ends up being cooler than the air under the hood anyway.
Also everything I read doesn't require a shroud of any kind.
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Update without pictures. finally the engine is bolted in, headers are on and a few other things as well.
I completed the e-fan install-it came out nice it is an 16" 8 blade pusher and completely hidden with the adjustable thermostat.
I guess I don't really have any engine specs listed here
so here they are;
'75 350 4 bolt main, .030 over, b and bp, dyno tuned
Vortech heads, 64 cc, heaver springs and radius valve grind.
Flat top pistons (9.7:1 CR)
Crower torque beast cam (mild lift/duration)
edlebrock vortech performer rpm intake
holley 670 street avenger, 68f-72r jets, 1" phenolic spacer
proform dist, msd street fire wires (custom cut), ac delco platinum plugs
(holley) flotech long tube ceramic coated headers, 2 1/2" Magnaflow dual in dual out crossflow exhaust (no cats)
393 HP@5400 and 432 ft lbs tq @4300.
pictures will be coming soon
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here are some pics, the engine is just bolted in the mounts, no trans yet. I will be making/modifying the crossember etc this weekend. The valve covers and air cleaner are not the ones I will use. It is dirty in the pics and most things are not finalized but it should give you the general idea.
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0523.jpg)
fuel line and vacuum adv.
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0527.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0522.jpg)
brakelines replaced
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0530.jpg)
e fan mounted
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0534.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0555.jpg)
one more pic from last summer
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/66.jpg)
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I wish my engine was that dirty. I like those valve covers, but the air cleaner is too small for me.
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Where are those valve covers from, I've never seen a set of centerbolts I liked until now.
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billet specialties looks like - http://www.billetspecialties.com/item.asp?cid=29&scid=237&pid=470
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kmj has a better price
http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=769&cat=20164578&page=1 (http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=769&cat=20164578&page=1)
I'm not going to uses the valve covers in the pics or the air cleaner they are just what I had laying around to get things set up.
The valve covers that I will be using are the same as the ones in the pics except they are not ball milled, they are just smooth and more shiny because they are new.
I am undecided on the air filter and am open to any ideas.
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perhaps one of these;
(http://www.shop.backwoodsspeedshop.com/images/6020C-2RED.jpg)
(http://www.shop.backwoodsspeedshop.com/images/6020.jpg)
(http://www.shop.backwoodsspeedshop.com/images/edl-4237_w.jpg)
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btw I would have the smooth top choice pinstriped.
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I like the smooth one, and if it matches your v/c's all the better
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An enclosed dual snorkel setup would be pretty cool.
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I have considered the old camaro style dual snorkel set up. i will probably go with the smooth top because it matches and is clean and simple and If I don't like it; I can change it sometime in the future.
The 5 speed is bolted up and the cross member is in place, I need to drill a few more holes and add a few more bolts and a spacer as i decided I need to raise the back of the trans about an inch.
So that means I can now have a driveshaft made, and move my shifter hole in the floor, I also need to have a hydraulic line made for the clutch.
I also have a lot of wiring left to do. I am going to try and get done with work early one day this week so i can go to the local u pull it yard and get some pig tails from the neutral safety switch, speed sensor and whatever other switches/sensors are on the trans.
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Just another update;
-The 5 speed is in the clutch linkage is hooked up and needs to be bled other than that it is ready to go.
-efan is wired in, need to test it.
-I redid the top bracket/shroud for the radiator again, now it's not really a shroud anymore.
-I need to rewire the engine/trans harness and starter alt.
-I moved the heater fan wiring off of the firewall.
-belts and hose are all hooked up.
As far as the gauges go here is what i am facing,(looking for some feedback)
-I have no tach
-my speedometer will not work with my trans.
- I don't want to spend a ton of time on this as I want to drive the truck.
I dont really like the thought of mounting aftermarket gauges and trying to get them to work with the bezel
So I am leaning toward Dakota digital;
-how will the speedometer hook up with my NV3500?
-anybody set this up? looking for some opinions and reviews regarding the install and after the install.
-generally speaking do they go with my truck and the work I have done so far (aesthetically)?
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Oh I think we need pics of the firewall, fans, and shroud.
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^ Indeed, you are getting close. I don't know about the speedometer hook-up, but aesthetically, I think your truck is a candidate for digital gauges. An aftermarket tach would look clean in one those pillar pods that Capt is working on.
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The pics will have to wait, since I am this close, I will wait untill it is all the way done(unless it takes me too long).
btw the fan is hidden between the header panel and grille, the adjustable t-stat is hidden as well but can be adjusted by using a screwdriver into the header panel, kind of just looks like I just dont have a fan.
-since i moved the heater fan wiring down, I was left with a big hole and didn't feel like doing more bodywork, so I plugged it with an oil cap. kind of looks like I meant to do that
The tach would be part of the digital set up.
The guages are available in blue, red, or green.
-Green is out
-I like blue
-Red will probably go nicely with my interior.
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It may just be me, but I've never been huge on the DD gauges in our trucks, I'd do a set of autometers mounted behind the bezel, not on top (kinda lazy looking to me)
Since this is your truck though, I like red, and flowing with the interior makes it even better.
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I like the idea of regular aftermarket guages, I just don't really have the motivation to do them right now and I need to do something.
I emailed DD and they said the signal from the vss on the nv3500 will work fine for my speedometer hook up. Its sounds like red is out and by defualt blue is in for a color as red is too hard to see in the daytime according to DD. I'm still on the fence about going with these gauges, I haven't seen them in person and from the pics I'm not really impressed but it would solve a problem. keep the feedback coming.
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I contacted dakota digital; they said the kit will work with the vss from the nv3500 so that is a plus.
Other than that I made some progress today;
I finished the engine wiring harness, tested all the electronics.
efan is working great, moves a ton of air through the radiator.
charging and starting system are working great. clutch is working great, my driveshaft is done and test fitted-just need to paint it.
also need to paint my hood hinges, hook up the back up light switch, paint the overflow tank, hook up my coolant temp sensor and some other details.
First start up of the engine in the truck went great, fired right up and ran just like it should
btw right at midnight tonight, running straight off the headers- woke up some neighbors.
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I am a dealer for Dakota and could answer most of these questions for you. I have them pretty cheap too, they are supposed to come out with an analog version this summer if you aren't in a hurry. You DO NOT want red if you have this as a driver. Its $75 extra... I attached a pic of what they look like.
http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=7&Product_Code=VFD3-73C-PU&Category_Code=7G
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Capt,
When the time comes I will definatley buy them from you.
Any details on the analog set up?
I'm guessing it will be worth the wait.
I have a mini tach I can put on the column for now and use my gps as a speedometer.
I can get by for now as I have my other guages hooked up.
If they come through with the analog let me know as soon as you get any info.
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They ARE making them, tentative date is for June.
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Another update;
My wiring is nearly complete, I just need to hook up the back up lights and I need to get my coolant temp sensor to read correctly, it tells me the engine is hot without ever even starting it up. (some know a good sensor to use in a vortech head?)
Hood hinges need painting and hood put back on.
I need to get it to the exhaust shop and have that hooked back up.
I've been on a couple of test drives and it is not the same truck. It will take a little while to get used to a useful first gear. Cant really even tell you if its fast or not since I have no tach, speedometer or exhuast so I can't even hear whats going on, but it runs and goes down the road again. Can't wait to have operational gauges or at least temporarily.
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The bugs are now worked out the exhaust is on, so is the hood etc. I went on the first real drive tonight for a few hours. This engine runs great and the carb is set up exactly how I want it. Now with the 5 speed installed I can completely stay out of the secondaries without trying too hard and still getting around at normal speeds. But if I want to I can also get into them and stay in them with every shift and stay in the powerband. The most surprising part is how smooth and predictable this engine is and how well the gears are spaced. The only new issue is a little oil seepage from the timing cover(so it seems). So a big thanks to all of you who gave me advice along the way and I will hopefully soon have some pics to show of finished engine bay.
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Great work! Finished just in time for summer cruising.
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congrats on getting it ready....and o, i hate that pesky drip from the timing cover, i cant get rid of mine . haha
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Cool, glad to hear you're finally having fun with it.
I will hopefully soon have some pics to show of finished engine bay.
Please do.
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The pics really are coming, they are on my phone and the boss has my adapter to get them to my computer. I will take some with my regular camera soon. I keep driving it even though I should be working on it and cleaning it up, but it was a beautiful day today...
I can't wait to get some gauges in it so I know what I am doing; so if anybody hears any news on the new analog set from dakota let me know. I did a lot of driving this weekend and just guessing it seems like my mpgs are as good or better than I had with the inline 6 and sm465 but I won't know the numbers until I have a working speedometer.
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Here are some pics of the nearly finished engine bay.
btw my camera sucks
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0587.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0585.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0625.jpg)
e-fan set up on front of radiator with adjustable thermostat(not pictured)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0534.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/DSCN0626.jpg)
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Truck looks great! Great job
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looks killer man. i like it alot
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The time to pull this project back in the garage is just a few short months away. The way this works is I bring it in the garage when it is warm enough to park my other car outside and before it is nice enough to drive on the street. (about 12 weekends long)last year I installed the new engine, trans and some other stuff. This year I am going to install the dakota guages, cruise control, cleaning up under the hood some more and a list of small items. I am also considering adding an aftermarket fuel injection but this may be put off another year depending on progress and price. Does anyone know of a clean looking system that will not hold back my engine or break the bank. will I be better off skipping this as I dont want to clutter up the engine bay. I want it to be the cleanest engine bay possible.
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That's a preety engine. ;D 1980 C10 what cruise control are you going to use ? Did your truck come with it from factory or you adding after market ?
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The truck never had cruise. I am getting the parts for the cruise from a local speedometer shop in town. The transmission has a speed sensor since I swapped it for the 5 speed so that will make it a little easier. I'll update whatever kit I get from him when I get it and will try to take some good photos of the install. Without a speed sensor you use some kind of kit that works off of your driveshaft-it just one less part that i'll need to get.
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Thanks, kit name and pics would be greatly appreciated.
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Thanks, kit name and pics would be greatly appreciated.
will do, probably some time in march.
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On the efi conversion, I've always liked the look of the Holley Ramjet system, and I think edlebrock makes a few different styles.
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The truck is back in the garage, dash is out and waiting for the new gauge set to arrive. I replaced the master cylinder as it was leaking. At the moment I am working on the park brake cables. The current set up runs them between the frame rails and is not currently hooked up. this set up doesn't work sith the new custom exhaust hydraulic clutch, five speed and crossmember moved back. I am going to run them down the outside of the left fram rail.
Some year c10's had this set up originially. So if your truck has this set up please post back that it does and post year and other specs. If you have any photos or possibally can take some please post them as well. I am looking for mounting locations and anywhere they may pass through a frame rail etc. Any help is much appreciated.
Also this round I will be adding cruise control and should have more details on the set up I will use later in the week. Oh and new weather stripping for the window tracks and who knows what else. This type of stuff seems to snowball a little.
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Also this round I will be adding cruise control and should have more details on the set up I will use later in the week.
That will be interesting on the set up and how it turns out, I will be watching this one. Been tossing around the idea with my 74 though I might do something different.
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Bake; I have the cruise set up kit, but I am getting the guages in first. They are almost done. I have looked over the cruise set up and its a pretty simple set up. there is an electronic servo about the same size as a beer can. a 2' ish cable comes out of that to the carb the rest is wiring and a switch. Wiring goes to the speed sensor, brake light swich, nuetral safety switch, tach, cruise switch. It is a nice set up and doesn't run off of vacuum. I will probably have the speedometer shop guy set it up though as he'll do it for about $100 and I won't lose money taking a day off to do it. the kit was 319 if I remember right. Also I'm sick of wiring at the moment.
Pics to follow when it is all done.
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That would be great, would love to see how it turns out and any thought you have on the kit.
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I also would love to hear what you have to say about the kit. I have been wanting cruise for a while now.
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The new VHX guages are in and they are nice. So nice to know what the engine is doing. They fit the dash really well. Seems a little tricky to calibrate everything but I was a little short on patience today. Just need to spend a little time with them when my mind is fresh. Pics to follow
This is the cruise kit here;
http://www.bought4less.com/bought4less/250-1223-ff80818125d407420125fb89c0a21636-p.html (http://www.bought4less.com/bought4less/250-1223-ff80818125d407420125fb89c0a21636-p.html)
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here are some preliminary pics of the guages;
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/photobucket-1601-1332726848245.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/photobucket-7060-1332726834871.jpg)
(http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv222/titera1/photobucket-2378-1332726821799.jpg)
The bezel is just resting in place in the pics, however you can see they fit the bezel very well.
In the middle pic you can see where the two switches are to be mounted(to left of the headlight switch).
I did get the hang of how to calibrate the guages and make various adjustment and change settings.
There are a lot of nice options on this guage set.
-I can adjust for the backlighting to be on during the day time and what brightness as well as a different setting for when the lights are on. Which make the available dimmer just more convenient.
-My blinkers show up in the speedometer, the originial blinker spot and the digital part of the speedometer.
-high beam indicator, cruise on indicator, brake on indicator.
-on the computer or whatever its called has a spot I can put a wire to hook up to a shift light(that I would install how and where I would want it) i can set it at whatever rpm i want it at.
-The 1/4 mile timer is awesome. 1st push the button, 2nd it wont start until the speed sensor reads 0 and after it reads a number again, you can watch the timer in the dash and it stops as soon as you've gone the 1/4 mile. I imagine the 0-60 is the same.
I hope to get some video soon of the readouts etc. Anyway the quality surpassed what I expected and thanks again capt.
I did give dakota a call with a question on using my speed sensor already on my 5 speed and they answered the phone right away, were very knowledgable, and told me exactly what to do.
My only complaint is the 160 mph speedo should be 120. However I can live with it. Oh and the lense is just a little too reflective. However I am very picky.
So the vhx gauges come with my full recommendation and if you do; buy them here.
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Well that is awesome, thanks for the write up and approval. I wanted to put those in my truck build, now I am for sure.
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A couple of other thoughts on the gauges;
Why not put the shift light in the tach?
The installation probably took about 4x's longer than I had originially thought it would.
A lot of wiring, I liked the harness and plugs provided for the sensors.
Also plan a location for a shift light if you have a manual trans. I don't know where mine will go yet but I will set it at 5400 rpm which will be the max shift point.
The red guages match my red interior very well.
I may add the dimmer option but have other things to tackle for now. otherwise to adjust the brightness of the gauges the truck needs to be shut off and key turned back on and it requires to go through the programming options then turn the key off and then you can restart the truck with the gauges set where you want them.
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So the cruise control is in thanks to the local Speedometer shop guy who really came through. The cruise works perfectly and probably better than any cruise I have had in any vehicle. When I set the cruise it stays at the speed perfectly like I never took my foot off the gas. It is very smooth when I hit the decel and accel switches, I pretty much can't feel it. He set the adjustments to prevent surging and over acceration very well. To his credit he has probably done 100's of these set ups. Anyway; if you use the link a couple of post back for the cruise kit; I used the #3020 switch. The switch has a nice feel and works well, looks clean and factoryish.
He did end up mounting the servo on the firewall below the wiper motor. I wasn't to thrilled to have it where it could be seen but I let him convince me that it would be better to keep it safe and dry. Pics will be coming here soon but I want to finish a couple of more things on the truck first.
btw this kit is designed to be used with a speed sensor, but if don't have one there are adapters.
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Those gauges look great, you have done a very nice job on the installation.
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There is a warn section in the dakota, can you not use it for the shift light. I am only asking, can't remember about that portion of the gauges, Been playing with to much wiring the last couple days,
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There is a warn section in the dakota, can you not use it for the shift light. I am only asking, can't remember about that portion of the gauges, Been playing with to much wiring the last couple days,
I haven't had a lot of time to mess with it lately. It may be that it is set up for both a display in the gauge itself and an additional aux. light.