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Hard to follow this but if you bought a replacement radiator and it isn't the same size, you bought the wrong one...I have had good luck which Spectre, Cold Case and Summit branded, fit like factory.
The new one is about an inch short on the 28" length.But the old rad was not a 2" core like specs call for, it is 1" ,so this ain't the original. Maybe a second or 3rd replacement.Well, the "inch short" in length sure did throw a monkey wrench in the works.The original shroud is not going to fit back on because there's shroud where inlet hose needs to be.
This is what I was referencingQuoteThe new one is about an inch short on the 28" length.But the old rad was not a 2" core like specs call for, it is 1" ,so this ain't the original. Maybe a second or 3rd replacement.Well, the "inch short" in length sure did throw a monkey wrench in the works.The original shroud is not going to fit back on because there's shroud where inlet hose needs to be. 1/8-1/4 diff is one thing, but a 1" difference of width where the shroud won't work is a different story. (The 1" core vs 2" core is generally not relevant as they used the same tanks on many of the trucks, the cores had more rows/thicker.I have also had issues with the plastic tanked versions being loose. Most of it is from the deterioration of the original isolators and the difference in the flange dimensions. Casting new ones would definitely benefit and they are much different than the original flanges.I am currently replacing the plastic tank version in my 87 R10 Twin turbo truck with an all aluminum version. Wont buy another one of those... ehjorten Who's did you buy?And agree, never run the zips unless you just like buying radiators.
A little help from the collective..Please.I need to find a 12v sourse that turns on and off with the key.I'm looking thru my manuals but can't seem to find a good schematic.Here us a pic of my firewall block and I would like to pick it up on the engine bay side of the block if possible.