73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Fuel Systems and Drivability => Topic started by: 87ChevyR10 on April 10, 2013, 05:18:26 pm
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After being stuck with repeatedly replacing airtex fuel pumps thru exchange after exchange, friday my truck went out again with the same symptoms as it has everytime an airtex fuel pump has gone out on me. Pulled up to the gate of the neighborhood, truck sputtered, cut off, could hear the fuel pump on at one point, off another. So i limped it in, parked it. FF to today, i replaced the fuel pump and strainer with an AC Delco, no prob on the install. Crank it up, still rough idle/sputtering. Its driveable in terms of the definition of the word, but not driveable for the street with it acting that way.
What is going on here fellas? Fuel filter perhaps? I havent replaced that yet thru the last 3 pump switches, maybe so?
oil is F/S with less than 3000 miles, new plugs, new wires. I put lucas injector thru religously every 5 tanks or so.
Help....... :(
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Put a new filter on it. The thing is likely clogged up and killing your pumps.
Always replace the filter when doing a fuel pump.
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What makes you think it's the fuel pump?
Start from the beginning - Any codes? Did you ever verify your fuel pressure? Have you tuned it up? When it dies have you verified injector pulse and spark?
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What makes you think it's the fuel pump?
Start from the beginning - Any codes? Did you ever verify your fuel pressure? Have you tuned it up? When it dies have you verified injector pulse and spark?
I've replaced 3 airtex pumps in less than a year after having another brand in it for years.
Nah, no codes, no obd1scanner, but ive ordered one from autozone. Haven't verified fuel pressure/pulse/spark, no tools to do so. I've done aight to replace the fuel filter and pump myselfso far. I've called a mobile mech. out here and came up with nothing. He ohm tested the map sensor circuit, said it wasnt giving a reading, so i went and replaced that, no good. Bought a haynes and a chilton, just frustrated right now. I'm kinda stuck until i get the obd1 in hand to pull the codes. Theres a fuse i could check to see if its blown that deals with the injectors/fuel system right?
Put a new filter on it. The thing is likely clogged up and killing your pumps.
Always replace the filter when doing a fuel pump.
Done. Replaced with a fram. Still no green light.
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/Triple3Rydah/th_chevy.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/Triple3Rydah/chevy.mp4)
heres a video with audio of the rough idle/drop off.
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You don't need a code reader to pull codes all you need is a paper clip. Jump the A&B terminal in the data link connector and turn the ignition switch on. It should flash codes at you starting with 12. flash pause flash flash is code 12 and so on. Did you check for vacuum leaks at the base of the throttle body? Is the vacuum hose connected to the TBI unit and to the MAP sensor?
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You don't need a code reader to pull codes all you need is a paper clip. Jump the A&B terminal in the data link connector and turn the ignition switch on. It should flash codes at you starting with 12. flash pause flash flash is code 12 and so on. Did you check for vacuum leaks at the base of the throttle body? Is the vacuum hose connected to the TBI unit and to the MAP sensor?
Ive read bout the paper clip method but im not really one for automotive morse code. on the vacuum leak, havent checked that, and yes, the hose is connected. I doublechecked after replacing the map sensor
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Vile - u check the video?
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Spray some carb clean at the base of the throttle body with it running and see if it changes engine speed.
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Hook up a vacuum gauge to full manifold vacuum source and see what it tells you.
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the surging idle is the IAC opening to prevent it from stalling out. How is the spray pattern? constant or is it increasing and decreasing the pulses (as in, non continuous stream of fuel)?
There's some stuff you can check. If you have a FP gauge check for a constant pressure. How did you hook the pump to the hard line on the level sender? rubber FI hose? Hose clamps or not? I always prefer to clamp them down for a leak free connection. Also, if you reused the old coupler section did you check for cracks/splits?
Check the MAP hose, if it's a very soft hose, vac can collapse it and the map sensor will pick this up giving a suring idle
another reason could be too rich fueling because of a bad CTS, flooding the engine and the IAC violently opening it to keep it from stalling and then settling back to a normal idle position.
Having an actual diagnostics tool like a snap on red brick is a big help in determining what's going on.
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Ok, everything came this morning so i pulled the codes and after reviewing, man, could this be something as little as a blown fuse problem? Thru the code results, it looks like everything relating to the fuel system is having an issue, low or high voltage or both. Maybe? check the codes.... 33/34 cant be because i just replaced that map sensor, so thats strange.
Code 13 - Oxygen Sensor Circuit
signal stays low ("lean") during warm engine cruise or sensor is open, or left circuit sensor is open(for dual sensor models)
Code 22 - Open Throttle Position Sensor Circuit
signal voltage is low during engine idle OR fuel cutoff relay circuit - opened or shortened to ground
Code 32 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation System
BARO sensor bad OR EGR valve diag. switch - closed during engine startup / or open when EGR flow requested by ECM
Code 33 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Mass Air Flow Sensor Malfunction
signal voltage is high during engine idle (engine misfire or unstable idle may cause this code)
Code 34 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Malfunction
signal voltage is low when ignition on
Code 43 - Electronic Spark Timing Malfunction
ESC (Electronic Spark Control) circuit problems / EST (Electric Spark Timing) circuit is low voltage detected
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what i would do. is reset the ecm drive it for a bit till the cel comes back on then test the codes again see which ones are still there. will all them code i would almost think the ecm is the problem but idk never really worked on a 87. but reset the codes and see what you get cause you never know which codes are recent or old
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Those codes were most likely set by someone plugging in and unplugging sensors. Did you spray carb clean at the base of the tbi yet? Unhook the vacuum hose at the EGR valve after you check that as well and see if it runs any different.
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Those codes were most likely set by someone plugging in and unplugging sensors. Did you spray carb clean at the base of the tbi yet? Unhook the vacuum hose at the EGR valve after you check that as well and see if it runs any different.
Vile -
Well, i sprayed the intake/injectors out with carb cleaner,which actually made the idle smooth now. This morning reset the ecm by unplugging the two ecm fuses and turning the ign off and back on. Also unplugged the battery after. No change, til the carb cleaner. I also sprayed carb clean around all the vacuum hose connections, the intake, no change in idle/revving. So a vacuum leak it doesn't appear to be.
So i am left with 2 major possible options(bad fuel pump relay/EGR seized up) and another option lingering on the outskirts(IAC).
I spoke to my dad just now, he said more than likely, if i cant reach up in the egr valve and move it, it seized up with carbon deposits, rather "BS" as he termed it. lol. But he said he'd replaced the relay already which i didnt know of. He was pretty adamant it wasnt the relay.
Should i try to see what codes come up now? I feel like im close, considering the improvement in the idle, but i tried driving it around the neighborhood on a test run and that was a no go. Heavy boggin down/hesitation when it come to accelerating.
I just wanna say thanks to everyone taking the time to help and post, this ones got me thrown for a loop.
If i need a multimeter for anything to test, lmk cause i just dropped 30 on one. So im in the game there now.
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How is the spray pattern? constant or is it increasing and decreasing the pulses (as in, non continuous stream of fuel)?
Spray pattern is consistent, looking down below the injectors, the amt and consistency of spray appears correct.
There's some stuff you can check. If you have a FP gauge check for a constant pressure. How did you hook the pump to the hard line on the level sender? rubber FI hose? Hose clamps or not? I always prefer to clamp them down for a leak free connection. Also, if you reused the old coupler section did you check for cracks/splits?
Yeah, i live and die by hose clamps. Rubber fuel line.
Check the MAP hose, if it's a very soft hose, vac can collapse it and the map sensor will pick this up giving a suring idle
Yeah, that hose appears good, but its not soft. It looks like a non-collapsible rubber/plastic.
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whats your codes now?
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whats your codes now?
I just went outside this morning, plugged in the obd 1.... all thats coming up now is code 12. but the problem persists. My next course of action is to order an ac delco egr valve from rock auto, for the mean time, go get some egr cleaner spray, clean the one thats on there and see if it acts right once clean with a new gasket.
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Removed the egr this afternoon. Looks pretty rough as you can see, went ahead and cleaned it out with carb cleaner, toothbrush. Bought a new gasket and will reattach later on this afternoon just to see if it changes the tune of things. In the meantime, I ordered the AC Delco 214-5536 replacement.
Look at the base of the housing, it was pretty much eroding. The inside is a lot cleaner, wasn't a great deal of debris/deposit in there though.
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Did you pull the vacuum hose off the EGR and see if it made a difference? Did you spray carb clean at the base of the tbi when it was running?
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Did you pull the vacuum hose off the EGR and see if it made a difference? Did you spray carb clean at the base of the tbi when it was running?
Nah, didnt test it, because it looked rather rough anyway, wanted to clean it/reinstall and see what it did......til i seen the corrosion/rust, so i just ordered the ac delco replacement and will wait to install a fresh, new one.
Yeah, no change in the idle, i made sure to spray all around it too.
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New EGR should be here in a couple days. I've decided im gonna bite the bullet and replace everything left on the code list(o2/esc/iac), replace the injectors/new tbi gasket and go head and do the TBI Rebuild which can be found here on the site.
I'm at a loss for what else to do. Neither one of my manuals give me much info on testing the items given in the code list, been eating up the search function here and on google.
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Ok, everything came this morning so i pulled the codes and after reviewing, man, could this be something as little as a blown fuse problem? Thru the code results, it looks like everything relating to the fuel system is having an issue, low or high voltage or both. Maybe? check the codes.... 33/34 cant be because i just replaced that map sensor, so thats strange.
Code 13 - Oxygen Sensor Circuit
signal stays low ("lean") during warm engine cruise or sensor is open, or left circuit sensor is open(for dual sensor models)
Code 22 - Open Throttle Position Sensor Circuit
signal voltage is low during engine idle OR fuel cutoff relay circuit - opened or shortened to ground
Code 32 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation System
BARO sensor bad OR EGR valve diag. switch - closed during engine startup / or open when EGR flow requested by ECM
Code 33 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Mass Air Flow Sensor Malfunction
signal voltage is high during engine idle (engine misfire or unstable idle may cause this code)
Code 34 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Malfunction
signal voltage is low when ignition on
Code 43 - Electronic Spark Timing Malfunction
ESC (Electronic Spark Control) circuit problems / EST (Electric Spark Timing) circuit is low voltage detected
New EGR should be here in a couple days. I've decided im gonna bite the bullet and replace everything left on the code list(o2/esc/iac), replace the injectors/new tbi gasket and go head and do the TBI Rebuild which can be found here on the site.
I'm at a loss for what else to do. Neither one of my manuals give me much info on testing the items given in the code list, been eating up the search function here and on google.
Heed Vile's advice . . .
Those codes were most likely set by someone plugging in and unplugging sensors....
Unplugging solenoids and controls with the ignition ON sets the associated code(s). They're probably fictitious faults!
Now, EGR bleed-through past the pintle or the EGR valve being opened by a faulty EGR solenoid (etc) is a reasonable bet ...my 2Ē. Since you have the EGR on order, why not wait until you replace it? That way you're not throwing money to the wind, and you'll know what repaired it.
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Unplugging solenoids and controls with the ignition ON sets the associated code(s). They're probably fictitious faults!
Now, EGR bleed-through past the pintle or the EGR valve being opened by a faulty EGR solenoid (etc) is a reasonable bet ...my 2Ē. Since you have the EGR on order, why not wait until you replace it? That way you're not throwing money to the wind, and you'll know what repaired it.
True, im impatient. Frustrated that i gotta catch rides to/from going on 2 wks, or continuously shelling $ out for gas. I just dont want to replace the egr and that not be it and im back to where i was.Again, im just frustrated. Been a rough couple weeks man, lost my son then the chevy laid down right after. I def aint sign up for all this. :(
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87ChevyR10,
Sorry to hear of your loss and frustration. No one should experience the loss of their child. Your impatience is more than understandable....
Collectively, we're on your side and just trying to give you the best guidance for your greatest benefit, based on what you tell us. Unfortunately, the push to get your vehicle back on the road could become even more frustrating, if replacing all of those sensors doesn't correct the issue any faster.
Rest assured we'll do what we can to help you back on the road as quickly as possible. In the meantime, while waiting for the EGR valve to arrive, pull the ECM fuses for 20+ seconds to clear out the stored fault codes. If any codes reset, you'll need to pursue just those. Keep us updated.
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I had the beginning of the same problem. My idle never really got that rough but a few things that may help. One thing I learned is the fuel vapor canister could have a vacuum leak and cause the surging. Also I noticed my EGR was sticking but not all the time. I have yet to replace it but I did take it off and cleaned the fire out of it. These two things helped greatly to the point that while retesting it in a near by parking lot I had to force it to shut stall on me. My next step was to simply clean the TBI. I bough a new base plate gasket and commenced to dousing the TBI with brake cleaner and carb cleaner, wire brushes and anything I could to clean deposits. The IAC seating surface and the vacuum hose connection for the valve cover breathers were the dirtiest. I removed the IAC and cleaned it too. The biggest thing is that you have to be careful not to rotate the pintel because it will change the depth and can/will cause problems at idle.
Since I put the TBI back on I have yet to have any more issues but I still bought a rebuild kit along with my other stock pile of parts waiting to go on. Thank fully I got a head start on them today with new rotors, wheel studs and extended brake lines in preps for the life.
I have spent countless hours trying to find solutions to this problem which seems to be real common on the '87 TBI's and I have come to realize that it is just several small things that you will never notice until they all happen at the same time usually just because of age.
Sorry bout the rough times and I will send up a prayer right now. Good luck with the ruck and keep us up to date!!
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Oh and one more thing. It should come in your kit but if it doesn't don't forget that the supply and return lines have 2 different size orings where they screw in to the base of the TBI. If they do not come in the kit then you can pick them up at any autoparts store really cheap just make sure they are for fuel and they should be brown in color. The package will tell you they are for fuel.
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87ChevyR10,
Sorry to hear of your loss and frustration. No one should experience the loss of their child. Your impatience is more than understandable....
Collectively, we're on your side and just trying to give you the best guidance for your greatest benefit, based on what you tell us. Unfortunately, the push to get your vehicle back on the road could become even more frustrating, if replacing all of those sensors doesn't correct the issue any faster.
Rest assured we'll do what we can to help you back on the road as quickly as possible. In the meantime, while waiting for the EGR valve to arrive, pull the ECM fuses for 20+ seconds to clear out the stored fault codes. If any codes reset, you'll need to pursue just those. Keep us updated.
I not only pulled and checked both ecm fuses, i replaced both of them. 1 had the wrong ampage in it, so i bought a master pack full of them, replaced the 2 ecms. Only thing it did was wipe out all the codes to where all thats left is the check engine "12" code. I know the map sensor and im guessing the esc are definitely victims of being unplugged. I know for a fact the EGR wasn't, so that might be the only actual real code. In which case, after checking the tracking, the new EGR is en route, so im pretty stoked to pop it in there and fire her up. But, after reading the last couple posts, im thinking im gonna pull the IAC, clean the heck out of it and reinstall it as frotosride had said he did. Wasn't any cleaning to do on the EGR on there, it was shot, if you havent seen the pics.
I had the beginning of the same problem. My idle never really got that rough but a few things that may help. One thing I learned is the fuel vapor canister could have a vacuum leak and cause the surging. Also I noticed my EGR was sticking but not all the time. I have yet to replace it but I did take it off and cleaned the fire out of it. These two things helped greatly to the point that while retesting it in a near by parking lot I had to force it to shut stall on me. My next step was to simply clean the TBI. I bough a new base plate gasket and commenced to dousing the TBI with brake cleaner and carb cleaner, wire brushes and anything I could to clean deposits. The IAC seating surface and the vacuum hose connection for the valve cover breathers were the dirtiest. I removed the IAC and cleaned it too. The biggest thing is that you have to be careful not to rotate the pintel because it will change the depth and can/will cause problems at idle.
Since I put the TBI back on I have yet to have any more issues but I still bought a rebuild kit along with my other stock pile of parts waiting to go on. Thank fully I got a head start on them today with new rotors, wheel studs and extended brake lines in preps for the life.
I have spent countless hours trying to find solutions to this problem which seems to be real common on the '87 TBI's and I have come to realize that it is just several small things that you will never notice until they all happen at the same time usually just because of age.
Sorry bout the rough times and I will send up a prayer right now. Good luck with the ruck and keep us up to date!!
I was one click away from pretty much emptying my bank acct til Vile recommended i chill, replace the EGR then go from there. I had the injector set and everything associated with a problem code pulled up ready to order. Makes sense to replace whats needed only, but, im just kinda desperate to get her back on the street.
Oh and one more thing. It should come in your kit but if it doesn't don't forget that the supply and return lines have 2 different size orings where they screw in to the base of the TBI. If they do not come in the kit then you can pick them up at any autoparts store really cheap just make sure they are for fuel and they should be brown in color. The package will tell you they are for fuel.
I had actually noticed that looking at the haynes manual last night, seeing that the return/feed lines being diff sizes. Good look on that, i think the rebuild kit has it, but, if not, i got all 3 part stores right down the street.
On a side note, why is it that AC Delco parts so hard to find..................for a chevrolet? I have been on an all ac delco kick since ive had some bad luck with non AC parts, but, some stuff im just not finding available. I cant understand that. Correct me if im wrong, but wasnt ACD a GM only part up until a certain time, like motorcraft was for ford.
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Also, preciate the words and prayers. Man i need all i can get. I havent missed a day of work since losing my son hoping itd help, but with the truck layin down right after, its kinda compounded everything going on. So i preciate that. I'm a member of a few chevy forums, but this is the ONLY place i post at and come to because of folks like the ones here.
Once again, i preciate all the time, effort and thought put in into tryna help me get this thing back right. All of yall. I'm just prayin its the EGR so i can go on and attempt this rebuild after i replace the master cylinder. Not looking forward to that.... at all. The box/part is just sitting across the room staring at me.
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Just installed the new EGR, sadly, only slight improvement. Looking at the injectors spraying when revving the throttle, it looks like the injector on the right is spraying at a lowerrate than the left.
now, im officially at a loss. Vile, i think you had said something about checking the vacuum on the EGR? i put my thumb up to the egr port and nothing, checked the hose running FROM the EGR, no vacuum it felt like.
where do we go from here?
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I just changed the distributor cap on it, plugged everything back up and now im getting a code 34, and it wont stay fired. I'm 99% i plugged everything in the right spots, as i did them 1 by 1. *sigh* stop the water man
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OK so stop changing parts! You're making it worse for yourself and you may be creating more problems while you waste $$. At this point you could have paid someone to fix it I'm sure. Now you need to take a systematic approach and I'm happy to help you walk through fixing this sucker but you need to follow the directions carefully!
Check the electrical connector/connection and related wiring. Check the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor and ensure you have vacuum there/ everything is hooked up. Now do you have a meter or no?
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OK so stop changing parts! You're making it worse for yourself and you may be creating more problems while you waste $$. At this point you could have paid someone to fix it I'm sure. Now you need to take a systematic approach and I'm happy to help you walk through fixing this sucker but you need to follow the directions carefully!
Check the electrical connector/connection and related wiring. Check the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor and ensure you have vacuum there/ everything is hooked up. Now do you have a meter or no?
Everythings hooked up, tight connection, the code 34 is dead because in my haste of tryna beat the sunset, i forgot to plug the map sensor back in. I checked everything back thru 1 last time, no bueno. Yes, i got a meter ready.
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OK clear the codes again and start it up. Tell us how it runs in detail and if it sets any codes.
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Since changing the distributor cap(which ive had since my tuneup i did a couple mos ago, i SWEAR i didnt JUST buy it) out, minor corrosion on the inside, so i plugged it all back up. Truck will start and cut right back off. So whatever is doing that is related to the change in dist. cap. Gotta be installer error. *cough cough*
No codes. Just 12.
I incl. a pic of the firing order on the intake. I think the manual slated the order like a playoff bracket - 1/8(l/r front 2), 2/7, 3/6, 4/5.
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front 2?
(http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Bugfuel/2009-09-23_092844_Chevy350firing.jpg)
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IA - I'm gonna pull all the wires in the morning and recheck everything. i used ms paint to line up the firing order on the dist. cap. just lmk if everything looks good the way its laid out. ima get off at 830 so its gon be the 1st thing i do soon as i get a green light.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/Triple3Rydah/firingorder.jpg)
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Yes the firing order is listed correct. Let us know how you make out.
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Fixed plug arrangement, 2 were switched, checked after rearranging twice, everything good. Hit AZ this morning and picked up a new pcv valve and iac valve because i was gonna clean that one and reinstall it, well, it looked like garbage. So i bought a new one, put it in. Truck idle back to normal, straight idle when running, but same issue when driving. Hesitation, little acceleration. Not road ready by any stretch.
i keep seeing the truck has to drive for 30 mins for the ecm to register and regulate fuel/air levels once replacing certain components that i have replaced, but, how can i let the ecm do that if i cant even drive it on the street with it acting like that.
Aight VZ, where do we go from here, i done broke the multimeter out the pack. *sigh* I'm ready.
I know one thing, when i do get the problem figured out and straightened up, with the new dist cap/fuel pump/filter/pcv valve/egr valve/map sensor/etc, this guy should run a1. heck, the wireset/plugs/oil/oil filter all have less than 700 mi on them as well.
They say troubles come and so they shall pass, and they also say before it gets better its gonna get worse. I'm hoping for the 1st one. If need be, i can upload a video of the idle, just for measure. lmk, but im ready with the multimeter to go testing.
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So what is it doing now? Hesitating? Stalling?lack of power? Did any codes come back after you fixed your crossfire? Check your fuel line coming off of the tank and ensure it is not kinked.
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So what is it doing now? Hesitating? Stalling?lack of power? Did any codes come back after you fixed your crossfire? Check your fuel line coming off of the tank and ensure it is not kinked.
Nah, no codes. We're back to square one with it idling just fine, but the hesitation and stalling once thrown in drive and attempting a pass around the parking lot. I'm about to hit the search function on testing the fuel relay, honestly, its only 12.99 for the duralast, so im probably gonna replace it just to be safe. But i just got off the phone with one of the highest rated mobile mechanics in savannah, he told me if im going thru fuel pumps like i have, then it could be an issue with the plug on the pump. He said i should've gotten a new plug with the pump, shouldve been incl. i mean, but it wasn't. Not on any of the airtex nor the new ac delco i just put in. So idk. That does make sense, and would be worth testing. I guess im gonna have to google how to test that too. Bout to go check the fuel lines and ill report back in a few.
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STOP CHANGING PARTS!!!!! :o It's not the fuel pump relay. Did you check for kinked fuel lines or not? By plug are you referring to a fuel pump pulsator? Your truck shouldn't have one. Invest in some tools instead of all of these parts you don't need. Pick up a vacuum gauge and a fuel pressure gauge. If you have pinching pliers pinch off the fuel return hose and see what happens.
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STOP CHANGING PARTS!!!!! :o It's not the fuel pump relay. Did you check for kinked fuel lines or not? By plug are you referring to a fuel pump pulsator? Your truck shouldn't have one. Invest in some tools instead of all of these parts you don't need. Pick up a vacuum gauge and a fuel pressure gauge. If you have pinching pliers pinch off the fuel return hose and see what happens.
itīll be kinda funny that the problem causing all this is just a simple thing as a kinked line, and all the new parts were pretty much for nothing... well you have the guarantee that their new and they arenīt going to fail any time soon...
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STOP CHANGING PARTS!!!!! :o It's not the fuel pump relay. Did you check for kinked fuel lines or not? By plug are you referring to a fuel pump pulsator? Your truck shouldn't have one. Invest in some tools instead of all of these parts you don't need. Pick up a vacuum gauge and a fuel pressure gauge. If you have pinching pliers pinch off the fuel return hose and see what happens.
Lines are fine, no kinking. Those tools will be the next things i buy.
New parts werent exactly for nothing i'd say, some of them been on the truck it looks like since it rolled off the line. I wish it were just a kinked line.
I got one of the best rated mobile mechanics in the Savannah area coming out in the morning to try to diagnose whats going on. Hopefully ill know something tomorrow, or have it fixed outright.
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Well, the mobile mechanic came out, checked over the fuel system and all things related, everything seemed fine to him. Said it wasnt fuel related, said the issue seemed like timing. Said he forgot his timing light and wasnt real happy. So in the meantime he used a distributor wrench and loosened the bolt up to something, i didnt really see, but, he moved the distributor and it would run ever so slightly better, but, not much. He had a very expensive diagnostic scanner with him, said something about disengaging the mode which sets the timing to set it manually. but, idk what that would do. doesnt the ecm control the timing and set it accordingly? so if someone was to set it manually, wouldnt the ecm just roll right over that and reset it anyway?
I could shoot a lil video running thru the parking lot so one could hear the way it runs when i jump on the gas. and though i thought the idle was solved, it really isnt. This truck never dropped idle from a cold start. It'll do that now, i spray the area in/around the injectors and after a lil bit it'll straighten up.
That's about all the info i can give right now. I'm thinking honestly about using my state farm insurance to get it towed. Drive it out the complex, park it, call them then a tow truck and have them tow it to a shop. I've got towing coverage on my insurance, might as well use it.
idk, im officially at a loss.
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Timing chain make sense to me
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The next thing you need to check is your fuel pressure and engine vacuum under load. Is the catalytic converter in tact? Did you pick up a vacuum gauge yet?
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dont call state farm it will cause your insurance to go up not much but just a few dollars will add up.
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Vile - The converter is rusted out, which is one of the items that was getting replaced when i was looking for a shop to do the whole exhaust system overhaul. Nah, ive just decided to take it to a shop. A guy from the job put me on to a shop here locally with nothing but glowing reviews outside of his reference, so, im just gon do that. I'm still gon go pick that stuff up for future purposes though. Ima let yall know what the outcome is.
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Well folks, she finally made it to the shop. Flatbed picked her up today. Ill let you guys know what the word is soon. Thanks for all the help, info, comments etc. still felt sick watching her drive off..... on the back of a tow truck. :'(
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a ford fan once said... the only time a chevy should be on the road was when its on a flatbed pick up....i just remember that... fyi i drive a chevy c10... so yeah
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Got er back today, im happy, but not as happy as i should be. They changed out the temp sensor, and a bushing? in the distributor. It runs, not like it was, but it runs. Still hesitation in the acceleration. Its just not biting like it should. Im gonna put itin another shop next week now that its running, let them take a look and see what they come up with. I at least know someone there, but the timing seems off to me still.
Just wantedto update yall.
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Since the last post, i again had the same issue, truck laid back down again with the same symptoms. HOWEVER, im glad to report there is a final resolution to the situation. So earlier this week, truck started acting funky again, like i said, same issue. I talked to a guy at the job who works on cars, and he offered to come by and take a look at it. I ran down what was going on, and since a "bushing" was replaced on the distributor, i told him i felt like the problem lies in that area, whether it needed a full replacement orsomething was just off. I told him i could rotate the dist. by hand and it idle fine, smooth when i crank it up, but try to run it and it is throwed off like its off time or something. So he asked me, its loose enough to rotate it by hand? He told me that that was likely the problem, cause if i could move it without much effort to do THAT, then, its throwing it off when driving cause its going to move on its own. Sure enough, he takes a look, the bolt that holds the dist. in place is loose, so i guess when driving it, it moves and throws the idle/rev off, causing it to run like hot beezo, aka GARBAGE. So we played with the positioning several times and after several test runs up and down the street got it dialed in right, tightened the bolt down and walaa..... no more issue.
I could be a pessimist and be mad i spent all that money on replacing parts, buying tools, paying a shop $200 to fix something that wasnt an issue in the 1st place(i am displeased that they didnt catch it considering they had the dist. out and apparently didnt tighten the bolt back up either) but i didnt know the dist. wasnt supposed to be moved like that, i just didnt know. So i wouldve never knew to look for that 1st. On the upside, i now own a multimeter, new egr valve/new esc module/new map sensor among other things and a huge box of fuses. Problem solved. I wanted to make sure i came back and thanked everyone, reported the end to the situation because in the future, someone HERE or on google search might come across this thread with a similar issue or exact same ordeal and it help them and save THEM money.
PS, i REALLY needed to replace the EGR, the other stuff, i highly doubt it, but oh well. Onto the full exhaust system replacement. =) Vile, Irish, Tx F, Fairlane, Twin T, bd, froto, thank yall for takin time out to help me resolve this. If i missed ya name,thank you as well. dang im happy im back ridin. Finna hit autozone right now for some goodies, yall be easy
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good to hear you got it fixed... thanks for letting everyone know...
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Sweet..isn't it crazy how a problem that seems so big boils down to something so simple as a loose nut (sometime referring to people as well). It kind of makes me wonder if that shop really did anything to the distributor at all because it's hard to imagine that it was take off and placed back exactly the way it was before they got it..but what do I know.. Extremely glad to see things looking up for you finally!
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yeah any shop who touches a distribitor should know its not suposed to move by hand. kind of tells you to keep away from that shop
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yeah any shop who touches a distribitor should know its not suposed to move by hand. kind of tells you to keep away from that shop
Yeah, they pretty much got me. Idk bout either of the things they say they replaced. A temp sensorhad nothing to do with any of that, but they said they replaced that as well. idk. I just know for 4 days, 5 days, i cant really remember exactly, my truck sat in front of their shop in the same spot til i finally popped up on em, then all of a sudden someone goes out there and moves it around the back. wasnt really happy to say the least. but, shes fine now, running strong, so im happy.
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http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,25576.msg213178.html#msg213178
a local one got my mom. and bad part is i knew them
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That's why the only shop I take my stuff to is the one in my back yard.
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yeah i was scared to work on it my self since i never touched a ford engine and there wasnt much room. then dealing with time and how long it would take me to work on it between my full time job side jobs and wife and kid. i couldn't justify trying to work on it. so the shop got it. but lesson learned, now i can justify working on it
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Yes sir, I learned many many moons ago that I am perfectly capable of screwing things up myself, I don't need to pay someone else to do it for me.. lol...
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Did you pull the vacuum hose off the EGR and see if it made a difference? Did you spray carb clean at the base of the tbi when it was running?
Vile,how much change should you see when unplugging the EGR when it is running?
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The EGR valve, exhaust gas recirculation valve is closed at idle and opens at part throttle cruise conditions to introduce spent exhaust gases into the incoming air fuel mixture to reduce combustion temperatures and lower NOx emissions.
So to answer your question, unplugging it at idle should not do anything.
If you pick up the diaphragm under the EGR valve with a screw driver, with the engine idling, it should make it run rough.
If the EGR solenoid is stuck allowing a vacuum to be applied to it all the time, it would cause a rough idle, possible stalling at idle. Unplugging it would close the valve and make it idle smoother.
Sometimes carbon deposits break loose from the EGR's tract and hang the valve open, if you have a rough idle and can't find a vacuum leak and the IAC can't compensate,remove the valve and check it.
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Did you pull the vacuum hose off the EGR and see if it made a difference? Did you spray carb clean at the base of the tbi when it was running?
Vile,how much change should you see when unplugging the EGR when it is running?
This is a simple way to ensure the EGR sol. is not hung open allowing the valve to open. It needs to be closed at idle.
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Yah, i can relate to 87chevy. Its fun putting on nice new parts, thinking you'll reach the problem eventually. But now i've learned to "fix and repair" and only replace when needed. Hate going to shops, even when you have a good quality one, your gonna pay. Nonetheless, always nice to be up and running again.
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Man... i pulled back on this from 8 years ago.... Since then, rebuilt the TBI unit, new tank, new pump and that prob solved. New EGR, IAC, MAP... Wow... just looking back at this is crazy.
I'm actually about to go get the truck from GA and bring it up to Philly where I'm at now. Miss yall guys... I'ma be back in here soon, been researching parts for it trying to get it ready for transport here.
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And i got a pic guide of me rebuilding the tbi step by step, ill find the photos and post em up. Somebody should get some use out of em.