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How is the spray pattern? constant or is it increasing and decreasing the pulses (as in, non continuous stream of fuel)?
There's some stuff you can check. If you have a FP gauge check for a constant pressure. How did you hook the pump to the hard line on the level sender? rubber FI hose? Hose clamps or not? I always prefer to clamp them down for a leak free connection. Also, if you reused the old coupler section did you check for cracks/splits?
Check the MAP hose, if it's a very soft hose, vac can collapse it and the map sensor will pick this up giving a suring idle
whats your codes now?
Did you pull the vacuum hose off the EGR and see if it made a difference? Did you spray carb clean at the base of the tbi when it was running?
Ok, everything came this morning so i pulled the codes and after reviewing, man, could this be something as little as a blown fuse problem? Thru the code results, it looks like everything relating to the fuel system is having an issue, low or high voltage or both. Maybe? check the codes.... 33/34 cant be because i just replaced that map sensor, so thats strange. Code 13 - Oxygen Sensor Circuit signal stays low ("lean") during warm engine cruise or sensor is open, or left circuit sensor is open(for dual sensor models)Code 22 - Open Throttle Position Sensor Circuitsignal voltage is low during engine idle OR fuel cutoff relay circuit - opened or shortened to groundCode 32 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation SystemBARO sensor bad OR EGR valve diag. switch - closed during engine startup / or open when EGR flow requested by ECMCode 33 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Mass Air Flow Sensor Malfunctionsignal voltage is high during engine idle (engine misfire or unstable idle may cause this code)Code 34 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Malfunctionsignal voltage is low when ignition onCode 43 - Electronic Spark Timing MalfunctionESC (Electronic Spark Control) circuit problems / EST (Electric Spark Timing) circuit is low voltage detected
New EGR should be here in a couple days. I've decided im gonna bite the bullet and replace everything left on the code list(o2/esc/iac), replace the injectors/new tbi gasket and go head and do the TBI Rebuild which can be found here on the site.I'm at a loss for what else to do. Neither one of my manuals give me much info on testing the items given in the code list, been eating up the search function here and on google.
Those codes were most likely set by someone plugging in and unplugging sensors....
Unplugging solenoids and controls with the ignition ON sets the associated code(s). They're probably fictitious faults!Now, EGR bleed-through past the pintle or the EGR valve being opened by a faulty EGR solenoid (etc) is a reasonable bet ...my 2˘. Since you have the EGR on order, why not wait until you replace it? That way you're not throwing money to the wind, and you'll know what repaired it.
87ChevyR10,Sorry to hear of your loss and frustration. No one should experience the loss of their child. Your impatience is more than understandable....Collectively, we're on your side and just trying to give you the best guidance for your greatest benefit, based on what you tell us. Unfortunately, the push to get your vehicle back on the road could become even more frustrating, if replacing all of those sensors doesn't correct the issue any faster. Rest assured we'll do what we can to help you back on the road as quickly as possible. In the meantime, while waiting for the EGR valve to arrive, pull the ECM fuses for 20+ seconds to clear out the stored fault codes. If any codes reset, you'll need to pursue just those. Keep us updated.
I had the beginning of the same problem. My idle never really got that rough but a few things that may help. One thing I learned is the fuel vapor canister could have a vacuum leak and cause the surging. Also I noticed my EGR was sticking but not all the time. I have yet to replace it but I did take it off and cleaned the fire out of it. These two things helped greatly to the point that while retesting it in a near by parking lot I had to force it to shut stall on me. My next step was to simply clean the TBI. I bough a new base plate gasket and commenced to dousing the TBI with brake cleaner and carb cleaner, wire brushes and anything I could to clean deposits. The IAC seating surface and the vacuum hose connection for the valve cover breathers were the dirtiest. I removed the IAC and cleaned it too. The biggest thing is that you have to be careful not to rotate the pintel because it will change the depth and can/will cause problems at idle.Since I put the TBI back on I have yet to have any more issues but I still bought a rebuild kit along with my other stock pile of parts waiting to go on. Thank fully I got a head start on them today with new rotors, wheel studs and extended brake lines in preps for the life.I have spent countless hours trying to find solutions to this problem which seems to be real common on the '87 TBI's and I have come to realize that it is just several small things that you will never notice until they all happen at the same time usually just because of age.Sorry bout the rough times and I will send up a prayer right now. Good luck with the ruck and keep us up to date!!
Oh and one more thing. It should come in your kit but if it doesn't don't forget that the supply and return lines have 2 different size orings where they screw in to the base of the TBI. If they do not come in the kit then you can pick them up at any autoparts store really cheap just make sure they are for fuel and they should be brown in color. The package will tell you they are for fuel.