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51
« Last post by bd on April 10, 2026, 06:28:08 pm »
Hello bd,
Yes I will try this tomorrow. I assume by testing this way we are trying to determine if there is redundant wiring here? Perhaps the jumper wire from the red box isn’t needed if the light illuminates without the connection from the jumper wire? Am I following correctly?
Thank you
You are. 
52
« Last post by Rough75C20 on April 10, 2026, 05:21:28 pm »
Hello bd,
Yes I will try this tomorrow. I assume by testing this way we are trying to determine if there is redundant wiring here? Perhaps the jumper wire from the red box isn’t needed if the light illuminates without the connection from the jumper wire? Am I following correctly?
Thank you
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53
« Last post by bd on April 10, 2026, 05:00:11 pm »
AND ... the plot thickens.... The vehicle wiring has been modified from the original configuration. I can provide an effective repair strategy, but not without further investigation.
Disconnect the jumper wire between the battery cable 'red box' and the alternator output stud, but leave the wire between the alternator output stud and the firewall junction block connected. Reconnect the battery cable to battery. With the ignition switched OFF (i.e., engine not running), probe the alternator output stud with an incandescent test light that is clipped to a shiny clean ground. Does the test light illuminate?
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« Last post by Rough75C20 on April 10, 2026, 04:11:13 pm »
There appears to be two wires on the output terminal. One from the battery cable splice and one that appears to run to this terminal block up on the firewall
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55
« Last post by bd on April 10, 2026, 02:11:59 pm »
None of the battery cable or the spliced jumper to alternator is original to the truck. How many wires connect to the output post on the back of the alternator? Is it just the one from the splice in the "red box?"
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« Last post by Rough75C20 on April 10, 2026, 01:48:16 pm »
Here are some pictures of the setup
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57
« Last post by Rough75C20 on April 10, 2026, 12:19:46 pm »
Hello bd,
The engine is an ‘82 305. Not sure amperage on the alternator. I’ll try to get a picture of it and post here shortly. It is some sort of junction block that splices the battery cable to the back of the alternator.
Thank you
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58
« Last post by bd on April 10, 2026, 11:54:06 am »
It is a simple enough question, but I need more information to provide a viable answer. Does your question refer to your 1975 C20? The '75 didn't originate from the factory with a B+ cable between the battery and alternator. What do you mean by, "the original cable with the red plastic box?" What is the current output rating of your alternator? Providing year/model information, whether the charging system has been upgraded or modified, and posting a pic of how the truck is presently configured should help.
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« Last post by Rough75C20 on April 10, 2026, 08:01:42 am »
Hello,
Simple question just to double check. I want to replace the positive battery cable on my truck. The new cable doesn’t have the splice with the smaller cable that splits off to go to the back of the alternator. Can I just run a separate wire from the positive terminal to the back of the alternator instead of splicing it like the original cable with the red plastic box? Any idea what gauge this smaller wire needs to be? Should I add a fuse? The splice in the red box currently doesn’t have a fuse. The new setup would be just a large positive cable to the starter and a smaller wire going to the alternator directly from the positive terminal.
Thank you
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60
« Last post by 87ChevyR10 on April 09, 2026, 05:34:17 pm »
Looking back at this thread, i had to laugh a little at the what i now see as "wishful thinking" in terms of getting new tires and the ability to do so. $ was about as tight as it got and as we all know, corners gotta get cut, unplanned expenditures pop up, all of which happened as they do with this stuff. Well, not only did they make the drive, they're still rolling. Doesnt negate the fact they are overdue for replacing, but i digress.
Was going to do the used route on the rims I bought. Come to find out due to MY error of lack of knowledge or moreso understanding by me on backspacing/offset - the choice of rims, wasnt gon fly. The 15x10s my buddy gave me from ol sportsman/late model leftovers which we mocked up with a tire on and were pleased with,
Johnny - the wire wheel is KING. Just dont have one atm so its all hand work. No big deal though. I laid out cardboard underneath and already started with the wire brush to a section of the driver side. Will seal it up with some primer. Unless you got a spray alternative solution for rust encapsulation or the other you could put me on.
Either way it goes, i looked back at the initial post and thinking about where we're at now, just smiled.I also was at a juncture walking across town 2 mi to get the inner tie rod only 1 place in a 40mi radius had....IN THE RAIN. But it has made it all worth it to open my window and see my 87 sitting outside.
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