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« Last post by 83JCode on August 12, 2025, 11:06:39 pm »
Thanks guys. I got the steering wheel pulled and the turn signal switch out of the way tonight. I'll keep digging and see what I find.
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« Last post by JohnnyPopper on August 12, 2025, 07:54:39 pm »
My rack and sector broke on a tilt wheel, due in part to loose column bolts.
Replaced it but later suffered a stiffness in turning the ignition tumbler.
Thought it failed again but it was the ignition switch.
Yours may be hanging up and broke the rack.
Does anyone know if contact cleaner like Doxit would help? I'v seen it work wonders.
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« Last post by VileZambonie on August 12, 2025, 06:51:39 pm »
Most likely broken rack gear
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« Last post by 83JCode on August 12, 2025, 08:10:59 am »
I went to start my '83 K2500 yesterday afternoon and when I turned the key to the Start position, I heard and felt a "pop" and then the starter didn't engage. Now, the key "clocking" is off and the it won't return all the way to Lock and it won't engage the starter either. The steering wheel is free though and not locked. I had noticed the key cylinder was getting a little stiffer when turning it in the Start position for a little while now, but I was a little slow on addressing it...now I have no choice. Does this sound like the rack and sector gear on the rod have broken or maybe the ignition switch on top of the column? This is a non-tilt column, without cruise control on an '83 with a manual transmission.
Thanks.
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« Last post by Gwtt on August 11, 2025, 10:09:33 pm »
I took a couple years off to build a car for someone. LS swap a 1963 Buick Riviera so I could buy a Lift, tig welder in the process. it came out great. Im in the process of powder coating a majority of the truck components. finishing the fire wall and front suspension. then it will be off to paint and body. id post a few updated photos but my drop box isnt loading.
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« Last post by JohnnyPopper on August 11, 2025, 07:43:48 pm »
Dude, that is some seriously good work!
With that monster under the hood, the integrated roll cage is justified.
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« Last post by Gwtt on August 11, 2025, 07:18:16 pm »
I havent updated in a few years but im still working on it.
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« Last post by ehjorten on August 11, 2025, 08:49:59 am »
Ended up being the lock cylinder. I got a rebuild kit though and put in all new bearings, rack, lock cylinder plastic gear, ignition switch, turn signal, tilt parts, etc. Got it all back together this weekend and she is driving again! Steering wheel is a little off. Will have to pull the wheel again and adjust. I did mark it when I removed it, but it was kind of hard to tell what was my mark and what was a previous mark. Steering is pretty well centered, so it isn't way off.
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« Last post by JohnnyPopper on August 10, 2025, 12:57:20 pm »
It's amazing what good circulation does for both animate and inanimate subjects.
If you use the same pan, put one magnet inside the bottom of the pan and an opposing magnet underneath, or outside the pan.
You can clean them off during the next service/filter change.
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« Last post by 1980K20 on August 09, 2025, 09:33:38 pm »
Thanks all! I put it back together, filled it up and drove around the block successfully. Transmission guy suggested to drive it over on Sunday so there’s less time on the road and i have more time for tow truck just in case. Good idea.
He’s confident in his ability to rebuild this, as you say very straightforward. I asked about buying a tci or something. I got an earful about cheap parts, sometimes good builder sometimes not. So I’ll have this guy rebuild it.
I’ve got engine oil coming from the converter cover. Rear seal? Also some coolant, another surprise. They’ll correct whatever else is wrong while it’s up. Probably going to be a month or two. They have two lifts for classics. They’ll pull my tranny inbetween other classics. So i have to wait for a lift to open after it’s rebuilt.
Bought some magnets but my pan is aluminum. Surprised the drain plug did not have a magnet. I stacked some magnets on the outside of the drain plug. May not do much.
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