Quick question/advice needed with SEM paint/dye

[82ChebySWB]

Hey guys, today I began removing a few of the interior trim pieces from my '82 to begin the restoration. I have been anxiously waiting to do this....as it will definately set the tone for the future of my truck....which will eventually be a clean strong street truck.

Right now my truck gets plenty of compliments on the interior.....as most people would believe it to be ragged out being that the exterior is a rattle can flat black. Being that I drive the truck right now, I'm all about having a clean comfortable interior. My ultimate goal for the interior is to keep it as close to stock appearance as possible----with the exceptions of my white face gauges,5" Autometer C2 tach,billet wheen and column accents, and billet dash and door trims.

Now, sorry for the long intro...... but my questions are this:

I'm using SEM Napa Red to restore the trims......question is, I thought all of the trims were plastic....I find out today that no, some are metal.

Is it safe to use the same SEM Napa Red to paint the metal interior trim pieces also? I'm also considering painting the lower poertions of the dash (glove box,and all metal exposed dash) would the same paint be safe and recommended to use too???  I was thinking that by painting the lower dash the same color as the top it would kind of mimic the newer trucks style of having the same colored dash instead of the lower dash being body color.

I'd appreciate any thoughts or opinions from people who have used this SEM product before...... 

THANKS!!

Brian

[VileZambonie]

Just match the paint code with some single stage and spray the metal parts with it.

[82ChebySWB]

Just match the paint code with some single stage and spray the metal parts with it.

*sigh*....I was hoping to not have to resort to getting a quart mixed.....

[VileZambonie]

If you are painting the dash area rattle can won't cut it anyway.

[HAULIN IT]

Brian, SEM is a lacquer based product, you can use it on metal parts. However, I agree with Vile, I use either a single stage urethane with flattener or (on the last couple) I've used PPG's DIU on the flexible parts (which is a urethane basecoat based product) & put flattened urethane clear on the metal parts. You will likely end up with some streaking of dry/slightly fuzzy areas doing the larger pieces.
 I've been painting the lower dashes & interior metal that way for years...I never liked the White/Blue, Black/Red, Orange/Black color combo. Some colors together are Ok, but many in those years were just bad. I also have done the doors along the edge where the door closes against the seal so when the door is shut, the area around the window is also the interior color. I only have One bad picture (& I don't know why I have it either). Lorne

[Captkaos]

I would only use SEM on the plastic pieces anything else for the interior I am with these guys, use a single stage paint.  From the factory, all metal pieces were painted the same color.

[82ChebySWB]

Thanks guys...

I'm definately only using SEM on the plastics/vinyls ........I'll talk with the paint shop today to see what they might can do for me. 

To be honest, I have full confidence that I can do the metal parts with a rattle and no one would ever be able to tell.  I can throw some wicked rattle jobs...lol   

I'll check into it though....THANKS!!!

[HAULIN IT]

Brian, One option (not my first choice, but an option) is...my local paint supply store can mix any/paint color & put it into a spray can, we (my brother works there) have even put epoxy primer (mixed together) in a can & sprayed it on lamp posts, mailboxes, ect. within the 24hr.time window. Check with the paint store in your area. Also if you do use a spray can, get a can of blender/fade-out spray, it will help smooth over any slight variations in the finish you may have. Lorne

[82ChebySWB]

Brian, One option (not my first choice, but an option) is...my local paint supply store can mix any/paint color & put it into a spray can, we (my brother works there) have even put epoxy primer (mixed together) in a can & sprayed it on lamp posts, mailboxes, ect. within the 24hr.time window. Check with the paint store in your area. Also if you do use a spray can, get a can of blender/fade-out spray, it will help smooth over any slight variations in the finish you may have. Lorne

THANKS Lorne......also thanks for posting that pic that you did....  that's the look I want for my truck.


I appreciate everyone's help!

[SUX2BU99]

Yeah don't rule out rattle-canning the dash just yet. If you don't mind putting in time, patience and effort, you can get it looking as good or very close to a typical single-stage paint job. It just takes quite a few layers of run-free paint and then after that it's sanding and buffing.

I did this on a painted fiberglass piece I was making for a stereo system. By going up to 1500 grit paper, then using rubbing compound and then using swirl-remover I got it looking and feeling every bit as smooth as a regular painted piece. The biggest problem? Cutting through the paint on sharp edges. Like I said, lots of layers.....