Intake manifold gasket replacement

[corndiesel]

I think I have an oil leak from my intake manifold so tomorrow i am going to attempt to replace the gasket. Anyone have any experience or tricks they would like to pass on that might make the process go a little more smoothly. Thanks.

[Grim 82]

Make a note of where the rotor is pointed before you pull the distributor to help you get it back in the right spot. Put rags in the galley to keep debris out of the engine while you clean it. Throw the S-shaped front and rear gaskets in the garbage and use The Right Stuff or black RTV silicone instead. Use the proper torque and tightening pattern when you re-install the intake. Put a little bit of whichever sealant you use on the threads of each intake bolt to keep oil from walking up through the threads. Use the good Fel-pro gaskets, and remember to pick up a carb base gasket when you are at the parts store.

[bake74]

Make a note of where the rotor is pointed before you pull the distributor to help you get it back in the right spot. Put rags in the galley to keep debris out of the engine while you clean it. Throw the S-shaped front and rear gaskets in the garbage and use The Right Stuff or black RTV silicone instead. Use the proper torque and tightening pattern when you re-install the intake. Put a little bit of whichever sealant you use on the threads of each intake bolt to keep oil from walking up through the threads. Use the good Fel-pro gaskets, and remember to pick up a carb base gasket when you are at the parts store.

     x2, and take your time making sure you check each step.

[1979C20]

Also, put a 1/16th inch thick bead of RTV around the 4 water ports on both sides of the gaskets. It will help keep water out of your oil. And, ive always used the S shaped gaskets with no problems, just make sure you put a drop of silicone in the pockets on the tips, if you do use them. I find it looks a lot cleaner than having silicone oozing out. Im attaching a picture from when I didn mine just recently. The stripes on the gaskets go up and dont forget the restrictor in the driver side gasket. Do the front and back first, then put the side gaskets on.

[Blazin]

I toss the end gaskets in the garbage too!
I have found the worlds best silicone. Way better than anything you will find at the parts stores. Go to your local Ford dealer. Buy a tube of the gray silicone made for the 7.3 oil pans. They should know what your talking about. Its in a caulking tube style dispenser, but its only a half tube long. It also last for quite while sitting around too.

[Dr_Snooz]

I used the end gaskets for mine. I didn't completely trust them though, so I squirted a little RTV Black at each end of them to fill in any gaps. I also put RTV Gray around the water ports and so far it has held up very well.

[thirsty]

Make sure every bit of old gasket and sealant is cleaned off everything too.

[Macj1983]

Thanks for post I'm doing this to tomorrow too!

[corndiesel]

Well, I got the gasket replaced and the manifold put back on. Now I can't seem to get the distributor put back in. When I tighten the retaining fork down it just spins. Can't seem to get it to stop. Any ideas. Also, the intake manifold was a lot heavier than I was expecting. How do you guys get it to line up just right. I got it situated but it took a couple attempts. And how do you prevent radiator fluid from spilling all over when you remove the manifold. I may have to change the oil due to getting radiator fluid into the oil. O'well, you learn by your mistakes. Sorry about all the questions. Thanks for the help.

[VileZambonie]

If this is a V8 Gas we're talking about then here's my advice:

After cleaning and removing all of the old gasket material, prick punch the cylinder block end seal mating surfaces and lay a bead of "The right stuff -RTV" by Permatex. It's better than GMS, Motorcraft, Mopar and Toyota's adhesive sealant. For the bolts that go into the cylinder head use liquid teflon sealer on the threads. As far as the distributor goes, you need to engage the slot in the oil pump driveshaft when you install the distributor. If you lined it up properly rotzte the engine by hand until it goes all the way in flush with the manifold. Only then should you tighten the hold down clamp.

[Blazin]

Just for the record, the silicone sealant I spoke of is actually made by International. You can get it from them as well.  It was originally designed for the DT466 diesels oil pans in medium duty trucks. Then IH built the 7.3 V8s for Ford and they failed miserable on those oil pans as well! Brand new 7.3 or DT466 oil pan set on a flat work bench will wobble from opposite corners they are so poorly stamped. They don't offer a gasket for these two pans, all you use is the gray silicone.
We use it for everything around the shop. Had a leaking hydraulic tank on a dump truck. Cleaned it with brake clean, wire brushed it good, cleaned it again, and put a thin coat of it over the area of the leak. Used it the to re addhear a large chunk of side wall to our Case loader tire a few weeks ago. So far so good!