Author Topic: No Start No Lights No Nothing  (Read 4149 times)

Offline harcorshe

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No Start No Lights No Nothing
« on: November 11, 2015, 07:05:44 pm »
I replaced my intake, distributor, plugs, and wires, but I had a lot of trouble trying to get to going again. (Backfiring, flames from the carb, etc.--I'm learning as I go.)

Well, I did finally get it started and the timing mostly adjusted, and now its like trying to turn a key in a banana- nothing. No lights, no radio, no wiper. I let it sit for a week and then it started a few times but now nothing again.

I have +12.68v at the battery, the terminal on the starter, and at the bulkhead junction box. I tried a remote starter switch and heard the starter spin (weakly) and now nothing from it either. Any ideas??? Thank you for your help!!!

 
'78 K20
454
TH400
14 Bolt
205 Transfer Case

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: No Start No Lights No Nothing
« Reply #1 on: November 11, 2015, 07:14:18 pm »
Sounds like you blew a fusible link. Check back from the junction block and behind your engine. Make sure you didn't pinch a wire near the intake or pass side valve cover in the back. Check the ones at the starter solenoid too.
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Offline bd

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Re: No Start No Lights No Nothing
« Reply #2 on: November 11, 2015, 08:17:58 pm »
In addition, check the battery cables for any signs of corrosion and the cable connections to the battery, starter and engine block.  Make sure all connections are clean and tight.  If the cable strands show any signs of corrosion (blue-green fuzz) or the cable insulation is swollen near the terminal ends, install new 2-gauge cables.  What's the voltage at the 3/8" stud on the starter solenoid and at the firewall junction block while you are attempting to crank?
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline harcorshe

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Re: No Start No Lights No Nothing
« Reply #3 on: November 11, 2015, 09:23:20 pm »
I see no drop in voltage at either place when the key is turned. Of course, there is nothing like a "crank"--just a click at the key.

I tried testing continuity of the battery cables, but I don't think my multimeter sends out enough to get a useful reading.

Based on what I can see from the '78 wiring diagram, the engine wiring has been modified. There is a wire (with a fusible link) running from the starter post to the firewall junction box. This shows +12.68v at the j-box. Does this reading rule out a problem with the fusible link?

There is a second wire (with a fusible link) running from the smaller post on the starter (the S-post?) to the firewall fuse box.

Would a failed starter produce these symptoms?
'78 K20
454
TH400
14 Bolt
205 Transfer Case

Offline 80Chevy4x4

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Re: No Start No Lights No Nothing
« Reply #4 on: November 11, 2015, 09:32:48 pm »
try checking the ignition switch itself.....(you check for power at the connector) 

Offline harcorshe

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Re: No Start No Lights No Nothing
« Reply #5 on: November 11, 2015, 09:45:23 pm »
I was planning to check that, but because the dome light won't turn on either I thought it probably wasn't that? Again, I still learning so sorry for asking silly questions. I will still check it.  Thanks!
'78 K20
454
TH400
14 Bolt
205 Transfer Case

Offline bd

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Re: No Start No Lights No Nothing
« Reply #6 on: November 12, 2015, 12:26:56 am »
...Of course, there is nothing like a "crank"--just a click at the key....

What do you mean by, "click at the key?"

I tried testing continuity of the battery cables, but I don't think my multimeter sends out enough to get a useful reading.

Correct.  Checking the continuity of a battery cable using an ohmmeter is nearly pointless, since the minor resistance sufficient to cause a significant problem in a cranking circuit (typically less than 0.1 ohm) is far too small to be reliably measured by most multimeters.  Measuring "voltage drops" across the lengths of cables and their connections while a circuit is operating is the only reliable method to diagnose continuity issues in high current circuits.

There is a second wire (with a fusible link) running from the smaller post on the starter (the S-post?) to the firewall fuse box.

Fusible links connecting to the starter should attach ONLY to the 3/8" battery cable stud.  The factory installs fusible links at the ends of 12- or 10-gauge red wires connecting to the solenoid battery cable stud and/or the firewall junction block.  The #10 "S" stud is the solenoid connection that energizes the starter.  The "S" stud should have a purple wire connected that becomes "hot" with battery voltage only while the ignition switch is turned to the crank position.

Grab the red wires with fusible links and give them a moderate tug.  If the links stretch or separate, or the insulation on the links is distorted, they're melted or suspect and need to be replaced.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline harcorshe

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Re: No Start No Lights No Nothing
« Reply #7 on: November 12, 2015, 03:23:25 pm »
Loose connection running to alternator! Thanks for your help. Glad I didn't run out and get a new starter!!


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'78 K20
454
TH400
14 Bolt
205 Transfer Case