First Time Welding

[JJSZABO]

OK - I needed to replace the center brace for the radiator core support and thought this would be a good thing to start welding wit - since it is concealled behind the radiator and grill.   What do you think?

I used a Hobart 140 with solid wire and C25 gas.  My settings were #3 on the heat and 35 for the wire speed. 

Sorry to all you welders out there for the embarrassment 

What it looked like before:


After welding:


After grinding - I'll try to get a better picture:


Thanks for looking,

Jeff

[Blazin]

Not bad for a first time out. Looks like more heat needed though. Your bead should melt the two pieces together. And lay down fairly flat. Practice with some scrap sheet metal laying around, you will get the hang of it.

[JJSZABO]

Should I try a setting of 4 or leave it on 3 and "move" the puddle slower or maybe slow down the wire feed?

[Blazin]

Its all an individual type thing. I like as much heat as the metal will allow without burning through and I like a higher speed than anyone of the guys that I know that use the same welders I do. Just my preference. The welders I use have a rheostat so there is settings from 1 to 10 for heat. My Sanap On 220 welder I like it between 5 - 6 & 1/2 for heat and around 7 for speed. But My buddies 220 Lincoln I like around 4 or 5 for heat and about 6 to 6 7 1/2 for speed. I like his Lincoln better than my own welder. He also has ans Esab 220 that I have never been able to find a comfortable setting for me. Just practice and play around with the settings. Its all in what your comfortable with and also making 2 pieces of metal into one with the least evidence of doing so. It wouldn't hurt for you to just lay some beads of weld down on a thicker piece of metal too. As your welding you or some one else turn your settings and you will learn the difference between them side by side. Listen too  when you lay a bead it should be a smooth sizzle not a popping crackling noise.

[VileZambonie]

definitely practice on scrap- keep the wire speed up and use your wrist not a stiff arm. Keep thin metals from over heating by simply stopping. Too many people don't know when to let go and end up burning through. Pause and give it a few secons to cool. For thicker metals try different techniques. Before you know it you'll be great at it.

[JJSZABO]

Hey - thanks guys!!!  I will practice on an old fender before replacing the rockers etc.....

I'll keep you all informed on the progress.

Jeff

[Mr79C10]

Good werk,, a bit of epoxy primmer and it will be all good!

[JJSZABO]

Here is an update on the 1986 C-10 short bed.

I didn't like the rust on the drivers side core support mount so a cutting I did go.





After cutting out the rot (which was worse than I thought), grinding and sand blasting:


Next goes in the "brace":


Then the patch I cut from an old door panel:


What it would look like after I finish (still need to cut out the hole for the mounting bolt):


I can't weld right now because I need some weld through primer, so I can coat the inside of all the parts.

Thanks for looking,

Jeff

[CruzinHigh]

Uh, the gaps on that patch panel sure do look big in the photo.  I am sure it wouldn't matter since the welds aren't really bearing huge weight in that area, but you certainly wouldn't wanna have to bridge gaps that big when doing fabbing/welding on suspension or something critical.

Sometimes in those cases when using thicker gauges of metal, you'll want to "v" the edges together to get better penetration of the weld %100 through.  But thats gonna be for stuff like boxing framerails and things of that nature.

Looks like you're doing well though, keep up the good work!