Lift Kit advice

[ssgoodman]

i'm looking to add a lift kit to my 76 1/2ton full time 4x4.  what are some brands that are good?  will i need to lower my transfercase or rotate the angle of my axles for 6 inches of lift?  i plan on cutting the fenders to get some rust out of the way and to be able to put bigger tires on it.  i am not a master mechanic and i dont have alot of tools, plus i am a full time worker/student/parent so i dont have a ton of time.  i am looking to do alittle bit of offroading but it will be mainly used as a daily driver.  i am looking for something that aint really expensive, want to keep it under 700 bucks, want it to be easy to install without having to make other major modifications or purchase other parts.  i want to be able to put on 38" tires preferrably the 38.5" super swamper boggers. 

if this should be in another thread or area go ahead and move it.

Thanks
Sutton

[VileZambonie]

Well if you want it as a daily driver I would suggest going no bigger than 35"s or it's going to ride like a bowling ball. A 4" lift is fairly simple install and cheap. You'll need longer shocks, new front leafs, a steering arm, rear blocks. 1" spacer between your cross member and frame will be fine w/o pitching the axle. If you want to go 6" I suggest full spring lift, drop drag link coupler, steering arm, shocks, steering dampers, brake line brackets, and you will need to check your driveshaft lengths and pinion angles.

AS far as where to buy there are so many vendors now ...

http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/1587

http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/1588

[78ScottsdaleK20]

I have a 78 Scottsdale K20, and installed a 4" lift from Rough Country.  :-\The lift came with everything needed for install, including shocks and the drop steering arm. Make sure you isntall three new crush washers for the steering arm or they will fail and the studs that are pressed into the steering knuckle will shear off, (from experience even with new crush washers). If this happens you will lose your steering

The cheapest way to lift it is with a kit. A kit comes with rear blocks (usually around $300-$450) and a harsher ride quality, (search axle wrap in this forum).
A system comes with rear springs (usually around $500-$800). I would strongly recommend the system. Measure your leaf springs, should be either 52" or 56".

It is my knowledge that you can go 4" without any major fab work or driveline correction or even extended brake lines. I recommend the brake line extensions for the longer travel. Extra $100 but worth it. The 4" lift will clear up to 35" inch tires without cutting fenders.

With the proper tools and a little know how, it can be accomplished in a weekend. Jobs alot easier with an extra able body sippin a cold one with ya. I did it solo, but with alot of effort.

One last thing...make sure you give the proper axle info before ordering so they can send you the correct size U-bolts. Another bad experience...I requested Ubolts for a GM Corp 14 bolt and they sent me hardware for a 1/2 ton...a free set of U-bolts and stainless steel braided extended brake lines later and I was ready to ride.

Hope this helps, good luck with, and let us know which direction you do go and how it went.

[nova801428]

I have a 78 Scottsdale K20, and installed a 4" lift from Rough Country.  :-\The lift came with everything needed for install, including shocks and the drop steering arm. Make sure you isntall three new crush washers for the steering arm or they will fail and the studs that are pressed into the steering knuckle will shear off, (from experience even with new crush washers). If this happens you will lose your steering

The cheapest way to lift it is with a kit. A kit comes with rear blocks (usually around $300-$450) and a harsher ride quality, (search axle wrap in this forum).
A system comes with rear springs (usually around $500-$800). I would strongly recommend the system. Measure your leaf springs, should be either 52" or 56".

It is my knowledge that you can go 4" without any major fab work or driveline correction or even extended brake lines. I recommend the brake line extensions for the longer travel. Extra $100 but worth it. The 4" lift will clear up to 35" inch tires without cutting fenders.

With the proper tools and a little know how, it can be accomplished in a weekend. Jobs alot easier with an extra able body sippin a cold one with ya. I did it solo, but with alot of effort.

One last thing...make sure you give the proper axle info before ordering so they can send you the correct size U-bolts. Another bad experience...I requested Ubolts for a GM Corp 14 bolt and they sent me hardware for a 1/2 ton...a free set of U-bolts and stainless steel braided extended brake lines later and I was ready to ride.

Hope this helps, good luck with, and let us know which direction you do go and how it went.

Go with a system.  You don't want blocks.  Springs give a way better ride.  Look at a lot of lifted trucks in the rear.  What do you see?  Most likely a big dorky block that is 6" tall and it probably looks unsafe.  Anyway.  I have a 6" lift.  Installed it myself last year when I was 16.  I bought it piece by piece.  You don't need to do anything with the drive lines.  They will work just fine.  Also, extended brake lines are $50 a piece....trust me, I bought a kit piece by piece, which is way more money.  It could be accomplished in a weekend.  I did mine in about a month.  I took like 3 day breaks and I did mine slowly.  It takes awhile when you have to drive 15 miles to get the right parts.  6" of lift and 35" tires IMO looks about the best.

Here's a pic of mine...

Good luck on your decisioin

[Dragon]

Great Looking Truck you got there Nova   Definately would recommend a Spring Front & Rear Combo! I have watched too many of my buddies install Cast Alum/Poly Rubber/Plastic/a couple Billet in anything from low down draggers, to skyscrapers, only to watch them repairing their Cars/Trucks/Etc, after they found Local Pot Holes!  I rode in two while they went out, and they scared the crap out of me!

[nova801428]

Thanks.  That rust hole that you see in the fender extends into the cab.  The floor is rusted out and the front is wrecked in the pic.  It needs work.  But isn't all that bad of a truck.

[Fordeatinz71]

go with a system, as mentioned before.  i have always had good luck with Skyjacker myself, but all of 'em are pretty good nowadays...these trucks have been around long enough for 'em to get it right...

[Dragon]

Thanks.  That rust hole that you see in the fender extends into the cab.  The floor is rusted out and the front is wrecked in the pic.  It needs work.  But isn't all that bad of a truck.

Eh still looks like a good starting point    My '77 needs a new frontend since the majority of it is rotted out in spots, but that just means a New Cowl Induction hood, Goodmark fenders, and etc   Haven't completely checked out my cab floors from the inside, but I do know that I have rust in spots due to a poorly installed new windshield.  Even if it turns out that I got to do alot of repairs or patch work, I'll just aluminum tape it off, and have it Rhino Lined when I do my bed.....   Worest Case Senerio, I'll swap the cab, since I don't plan on giving it up with out a decent fight(Atleast not willingly, if the powers that be says otherwise(G/F))

[nova801428]

lol.  Yeah, I am willing to put up a fight with mine. 

[ssgoodman]

i have been thinking about using the rear shackle flip since i want to avoid blocks in the back and dont want to drop a grand going with the spring kit.  is there any place out there that sells half a lift kit lol