14 bolt 9.5" s.f vs. 10.5" f.f.

[fitz]

  I planned to run a 14 bolt 9.5" s.f. in my truck but as I look around this site I am second guessing myself. Is it worth stepping up to the 10.5" f.f.  The drivetrain will be a 400 S.B. with TPI, turbo 350/205, 4.11 gears with a 4" lift and 33" tires. It will be used as a DD/tow rig and will not see any serious 4 wheeling any time soon.
  Any thoughts on the 9.5" vs. 10.5" for a street driven truck? What would you recommend for a posi unit? I was thinking of an Eaton but an open for suggestions.    Thanks.
                                                                                            Fitz
                                                                                             

[Blazin]

Hands down a fulll floater!

[yellowk20]

for your app the SF will be fine but if you have to buy the axle just pony up and get the FF

[VileZambonie]

The ff is better but the 14 bolt sf is still a strong axle.

[oldwhity]

In my opinion, the sf will be more than sufficient like Yellow and Vile say since your probably not doing any heavy wheeling. But if it's as easy as swapping axles like Yellow says and not a huge cost difference than I would keep it an option. Just my 2cents.

[Blazin]

my $.02 is why not do it right the first time. If a little is good than more must be better! lol

[VileZambonie]

I wouldn't stray away from either if you catch a good deal on one. I have SF in my K20 and the FF in my Mutt.

[yellowk20]

the SF is a good axle I've never heard of anyone breaking one there comparable to a Dana 60 in strength maybe even a bit stronger.

[fitz]

  I already have both axles. My concern is that the F.F. in the truck now is out of a dually cab/chassis and has huge brakes on it. The truck had 44" tires on it and it stopped fine. When I put on a set of 35"s the rear brakes lock up fairly easy.
  The truck has a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve that I will try adjusting once the roads around here are dry. I have a spare S.F. and I was thinking I might be better off with the smaller brakes if adjusting the proportioning valve does not solve the problem.   Thanks
                                                 Fitz

[Blazin]

If its from a cab and chassis it is narrower than the front end. Must track funny? As far as the brakes locking up if they are adjusted correctly, and the valve is adjusted they shouldn't.

[fitz]

 I never noticed any tracking issues. With the 44's the truck drove so bad that was the least of my problems. Now with the 35"s it seems to track alright but that may be sheer luck due to the mismatched rims. Front (15" x 8") Rears (16.5" x 9.25").
 I'll pull the rims and measure the WMS on the rear and see what I have. Thanks
                                                                                                                                Fitz
                                                                                                                       

[Blazin]

The cab and chassis rears you can barley get your wrench between the springs and the backing plate to bleed the brakes.

[cracker0169]

that looks like a C&C axle. I say do it right and find a FF that has the regular width. You may even get lucky and score one with a Detroit in it!