need some help!

[74chev4x4]

The wire from the alternator is going to the larger post on the starter along with the cable from the pos on the battery, the other two wires(not sure where they are coming from ignition I guess) I have going to the smaller post on the starter the one with the small s next to it.  That is how I beleive the old one was set up.  I believe it must still be some kind of fuse in the ignition or a bad wire from the ignition, still not sure?  Thanks.

[ccz145a]

The wire from the alternator is going to the larger post on the starter along with the cable from the pos on the battery, the other two wires(not sure where they are coming from ignition I guess) I have going to the smaller post on the starter the one with the small s next to it.  That is how I beleive the old one was set up.  I believe it must still be some kind of fuse in the ignition or a bad wire from the ignition, still not sure?  Thanks.

recheck your wiring... I don't think that's right.

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=11766.0

[VileZambonie]

[bobcooter]

Sorry it took me so long to get back. i was refering to the big ground wire from the battery. It goes to the alternator bracket. If it's grounded to the frame it can make some crazy stuff happen.

[ccz145a]

Mine neg. bat is grounded to that bracket, too. Consensus among users on this site is that the block is the best place.

[Gregzz4]

This may be way out there but....AND keep in mind I am NOT a re-builder
There is some crankshaft endplay on big blocks
You changed the rear main, so you changed the way the crank is sitting in the block?
Like I said, way out there.
Crank is binding?
Did you hand crank as posted above? Rotate it more than once through 360, like many times.
Keep in mind that when you activate the starter, the crank will move as it spins and Just Maybe your worn internals are causing binding whereas it worked fine before with the worn parts. Plus, endplay may have caused the rear leak initially.