Pulling my 350! Pics!

[Lucky Jeff]

Didnt want to pull the engine, THEN tear it apart?

That's what I was thinking... Would have been a whole lot easier.

[VileZambonie]

Agreed, I wouldn't have pulled it apart in the truck if you're taking the whole engine out.

Don't leave your torque converter hanging on the front seal like that or you'll need to replace it.

[Blazin]

I would replace the front trans seal just for GP.

[Lt.Del]

buy some new motor mounts...like $10 each---they are a pain to replace w/ engine still in.  I just had to do that a couple of months ago.  It's a cinch to do it w/ engine out. Those rubber insulators do go bad.

[Unofficial]

Well I didn't think I was going to pull the engine but after seeing that I wasn't going to be replacing only a piston by pulling off the heads I just pulled the whole thing... Geez guys does it really matter?  

Good idea Sgt, I didn't think about that. I'll definitely be replacing those then.

I didn't know I was affecting the front seal...Is it hard to replace once I take the TC off? I've never done it before.

[Lucky Jeff]

Geez guys does it really matter?  

yes, yes it does. We're older and lazier... Makes all the difference in the world for some of us 

[Blazin]

Front seal is very simple. Slide the converter out, use a seal puller or punch a small hole in the tin part of the seal, and screw a sheet metal screw into the hole. Slide hammer with a screw attachment works great, but Vise grips and some gentel encouragement will pull it out. Then just tap the new one back in with a socket or piece of pipe the same diameter as the outside diameter of the seal.

[Unofficial]

Geez guys does it really matter? 

yes, yes it does. We're older and lazier... Makes all the difference in the world for some of us 

Haha point taken! This is only my second time doing something somewhat major, I guess I just got a little excited.

Front seal is very simple. Slide the converter out, use a seal puller or punch a small hole in the tin part of the seal, and screw a sheet metal screw into the hole. Slide hammer with a screw attachment works great, but Vise grips and some gentel encouragement will pull it out. Then just tap the new one back in with a socket or piece of pipe the same diameter as the outside diameter of the seal.

Good deal, thanks for the info. I'll put it on the list 

[Swims350]

the Tc can actually move up and down some and with the motor out it's not centered and all it's weight is kinda pushing down on the seal which with an old seal can tear it or make it stay that way. They are cheap, any parts store would have one, and you just slide the TC out and flip it over quickly or it'll make a big mess of fluid, and by flip it over I mean the part you see now that is againist the flexplate that goes down towards the ground.

I use a screwdrive behind the metal lip and hammer it off, then sit the new one flat on and hold it by hand and tap around it with a hammer jumping around left to right top to bottom, but pipe or socket or anything to fit the outside of it make it much easier, even a 2x4 or 4x4 or something, playwood anything.

No worrys on taking it apart in the truck, I did the same, thought I was gonna do a headjob and valve job to it, and be done, decided it's that far might as well do the rest since it's cheap for parts. I actually pulled the motor out without anything, I just had the trans and all out, took the heads off and flipped it backwards with a big pry bar. it was in my 88 k1500 and had plenty of room. it flipped out and laid over on the top and I had a chain bolts to it, grabbed that and drug the block out, it was on plywood so it moved easy. Then me and my old man put a 4x4 thru the chain and lifted the whole shortblock and put it in a wheel barrow, rolled it next door to his house bolted the stand head to it and lifted it out and put it on the stand. Rebuilt it, had it complete minus the tbi unit and manifolds, rolled it back over in the wheel barrow and had a cherry picker then, lol put it back in with the picker.

[Unofficial]

Hey guys I got my new motor and I have a few questions. I know there's controversy between the ways the break in a new engine... Does anyone have any tried and true methods to break in a new engine? All I know is not to use synthetic and to run it hard! Any light on this subject is appreciated, I plan on having it running in the next day or so.


My first question concerns this part... I know it has something to do with the oil, but I also have what I think is a sending unit next to the distributor behind the intake... So what's the purpose of this one?


Here it is in place


Here's the sending unit (I think). So this is what is responsible for what I see on my gauge?

Thanks for any help...

[Captkaos]

top = ECM
Bottom = Guage

[75chevybakers]

buy some new motor mounts...like $10 each---they are a pain to replace w/ engine still in.  I just had to do that a couple of months ago.  It's a cinch to do it w/ engine out. Those rubber insulators do go bad.

Ha Ha... I bought a new performance motor and kept the old mounts... They are busted to heck and I have only driven 30 miles... Good advise, spend $20 save 1 hour of anger.

[VileZambonie]

Break in the cam -we just had a post on this (search) 20 minutes. Change the oil and filter then onto Breaking in the rings... Make sure you vary engine speed and moderate acceleration to WOT within the first 50 miles.

Oil pressure switch near distributor for ECM oil pressure sending unit for gauge.