Raising Bed Floor

[SmokeShow]

Anyone have any idea how to go about this?  My understanding is some of the guys do this for body drops on lowering... I have a different reason but still the same thing needs to be done...  I need to raise it about 2".

What do you all forsee needing to be done to do so???


Thanks
Mitch

[bake74]

     I know there is a couple of ways to do it, but I would just basically cut and raise everything so it looks stock but 2" higher.

[VileZambonie]

What is your reason? That's a lot of work to raise the floor 2"

[beastie_3]

talk to dv8customs

[HAULIN IT]

Mitch, I did a 2" angled (front to back) bodydrop on mine, however the bedsides are straight down 2". The way it's done could be the same as RAISING the floor if 2" bodylift blocks were installed between the frame & bedfloor...the bodylines would line up to a truck with the cab sitting on original cab mounts.
It's really not hard to do due to the bolt-together construction. A friend & I did the bed in a day & a half.
Here's how it's done: Remove the floor & mark the rear posts with a piece of 2" masking tape, cut the bottom off. On the bulkhead, mark the outer holes with 2" tape from the centerline up, drill the holes. Re-install the floor & mark all of the holes, cut the bottom 2" off. Slide-on body clips were used to put it back together. Four fillers on the floor need made since than wheelwells are tapered.
Here are a few pictures (I have more however it wouldn't load with more). Explain what your wanting to do & we'll see if this applies. Any other questions, Just ask! Lorne
   

[slammed79]

I've done it to clear notches before but it was more like 10". On a lowered or even stock height truck you can use jackstands to keep the bodylines intact when you remove the bedfloor, then put 2" blocks under the bedfloor to get the lift you want and then weld away. You'll need to make some sort of bushing or use steel blocks to re-mount the bed floor to the frame and not loose your body line.

I'm with Vile though, its a ton of work for just 2". A body lift, while still a fair amount of work would probably be easier in the end.

[SmokeShow]

Reason for doing so is to fit the body (cab & bed) to a late model (2006) chassis. They are taller & the "step" up after the cab is about 4" higher than these frames. I don't want to mount the bed flat to the frame  then have to use a 4" "body lift" to get the lines matched up.

So I'm looking to just do a 2" on cab & lower the bed bed floor 2" so the lines will match.


Does that make sense??


Thanks to the gentlemen who posted processors & pics!! I can provide email if you would send me the rest of the pics.


TIA folks!

[HAULIN IT]

I don't want to mount the bed flat to the frame  then have to use a 4" "body lift" to get the lines matched up.

So I'm looking to just do a 2" on cab & lower the bed bed floor 2" so the lines will match.


Does that make sense??

It made sense up until these Two sentances...I would think you DO want to mount the bed flat to the frame, but lower the sides 2".
Doing the 2" under the cab makes sense, but not the "lowering the bed floor" part. Re-read what you wrote & correct me if I'm wrong. What you want to do is put a 2" bodylift under the cab only, bolt the bed floor down to the frame & then lower the sides 2" to make up for the 4" difference in the frame rise...Is this correct? If so, what I did to my bed would be exactly what you want to do.
I did it for somewhat the same reason. I couldn't see notching the frame to get the truck to sit the way I wanted it, but have it still showing under the rockers, needing shorter shocks & having the fuel cell sticking out the bottom looking stupid because GM designed the truck 2" high in the back so farmer Joe would be able to put a half ton of stuff in the bed before the truck was sagging.
The only time it's really noticable that something odd is going on is when the gate is down like in the last picture I posted before...It starts to make one go   Getting the tailgate to fit & shut took a bit of work...it needs thinned & the bottom strengthening rib removed so the gate doesn't bind on the rear sill. Normally, that ribbing would be just above the bed floor.
Here's a few more pictures I found
 
 

[SmokeShow]

Yes, you are understanding. I was trying to say I didn't want to mount the bed to the frame as-is & make up the difference with a 4" body lift on just the cab. Instead, I want to do a 2" body lift on the cab & raise the bed floor 2" up the bed sides to recover the other 2" to make up the 4" difference.

The "glue" or caulk looking stuff at the joint between the floor/wheel wells & the bedside...  What is it? How to remove it & reapply it after raising the floor? The bed floor isn't "glued" to the sides is it?

[slammed79]

Its bolted in and the glue you're seeing is seam sealer

[SmokeShow]

So the wheel wells were NOT raised with the floor, right?  JUST the floor was raised up?

Thanks gentlemen!  Appreciate it.

[SmokeShow]

Is this the seam sealer stuff you speak of....?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dynatron-Auto-Body-Seam-Sealer-12-oz-Tube-USA-MS-550-/270587574562?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3f0046b922

[HAULIN IT]

Ok! We are almost on the same page. Let's call it LOWERING the bedsides...that's what I did (the floor is on the frame in the stock location) & sounds to me like what your wanting to do. If your not putting some kind of stilts under the floor, then it's not raised. If you sit the bed up on the newer frame where it hits the majority of the area, by your numbers, you would want to LOWER the bedsides to match the cab since it's allready lower, Correct? Six of one...Half dozen of the other however look at it like this: The floor is holding the sides in place, not the other way around 
Yes, the sides & the wheelwells are bolted together, there are 4 welds on the back posts near the tailgate pivots that need re-welded. The "Goo" you see is like what you pictured from Dynatron. The best plan if it is in good condition is to leave it on the bed floor as much as possible...just cut along the bedside with a utility knife several passes & then slide a putty knife between the panels to release them, this way you don't have to spend the time removing it all, then spend the time & money re-installing it. Just put a nice, small bead on the side where it will bolt up to the bedside & tighten it down & wipe away the excess...a little spot here & there may be loose & need filled in (the ends of the wheelwells too).
Yes, The wheelwells were lowered with the bedsides. To me, it seemed like it was the best way...the bodylines inside the bed still line up, ect. Because of them getting smaller going down, that's why you need the filler panels front & rear of the wheelwells. Understand?
Good Luck on your project...you can allways asks more questions if needed. Lorne   

[SmokeShow]

Yep, we're on the same page Lorne. I was just wording it different. Your way is more correct in saying the sides are being lowered versus me saying the floor is being raised. Yes, either is correct but yours is the best way to say it.

Thanks for all the tips. Really appreciate it.

[SmokeShow]

I did some closer looking and measuring today and I think I'm in teh clear WITHOUT having to do this lowering of the bed sides!  The frames are BOTH 8" tall at the tallest part and both pretty much step up the same amount and the "step" is pretty much the same length from the low to the high.

My 06 frame is from an Extended Cab Long bed 3500 truck.  Measuring from the center of the front axle on the 83 to the back of the cab looked to be almost dead on 9 ft.  The "step" in the 83 frame (crew cab truck) is up near where the rear doors start.  The "step" in the 06 frame will be farther back but I don't see it being a problem.  All I'll have to do is move the rear axle forward on the 06 chassis to match the 83 wheel base.  The rest will should come into position nicely.

This was good news today!