Head Gasket Replacement gone wrong?

[Samuelpenner]

This week I changed the head gasket on my 76 C10 (inline 6 250) because it was showing many signs of having a blown gasket. I know white smoke can be a number of things by I figured the truck is old, the gasket has probably never been replaced and I want to learn how so let do it!

Did the change exactly how the repair manual said to do so and changed out a fewer gaskets while I was in there. Found that the valves had a lot of built up crap on them (likened to black popcorn?) I cleaned them and the entire thing carefully with degreaser and water, let them dry and installed the new head gasket.

I did find that the oil gaurd/cap on the top of one of the valve springs was broken but nowhere in town had the part. I use this truck daily so I put it in again and decided I would replace it when the part could be mailed to me.

Adjusted the valves and sealed it all up. Put everything back together and now the truck will barely start and when it does it has a rough idle and almost no power to even drive the thing! I can get it up to about 40 and it won't go passed that. All te gears are weak and it's still blowing out soo much smoke!

What is the issue here?

I have replaced the fuel pump and reset the timing, regapped the plugs (.035), replaced the vacuum advance, plugs, wires.... Nothing is working...


Help!

[Tx_Phil]

First thing I would check is the firing order. Second would be the valve adjustment. If the valves ate too tight it won't be able to breath.

I changed heads on a ford many years ago and got the valve adjustment too tight and it would hardly start and it had no power. Once we figured out the problem if ran great.

[Samuelpenner]

Maybe that's it. I'm not sure :/ worth a try!

Although I did set them exactly how the manual said. Rotor facing plug 1 and adjust the proper valves until all play is gone, then give an extra 360 degree turn to complete.... Maybe I should redo it and tighten them a 180 degree turn instead??

Also, it gave the exact valves to tighten according to which cylinders were in place when the rotor was turned toward plug 1 and plug 6... But I wasn't positive which valves were exhaust and which were intake...
I assumed because of the layout that valve 1 would be exhaust, 2&3 intake, 4&5 exhaust, 6&7 intake, 8&9 exhaust, 10&11 intake, 12 exhaust. Is this right? Or would they simply alternate each time? 1 ex, 2 in , 3 ex, 4 in , etc??

[VileZambonie]

The intake and exhaust valves line up with the ports. E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E

These engines do not normally require periodic adjustment. However if cylinder head or valve train requires service and/or lifter noise is excessive, adjust valves as outlined below.
 
Valves, Adjust
 

1.Start engine and allow to reach normal operating temperature, then shut engine off.
 2.With engine in position to fire No. 1 cylinder, adjust the following valves: Exhaust Nos. 1, 3 and 5; Intake Nos. 1, 2 and 4. To properly adjust valves, tighten adjusting nut until all lash is eliminated, then tighten nut an additional 1 turn.
 3.Turn crankshaft one complete revolution, which will bring engine in position to fire No. 6 cylinder. With engine in this position, adjust the following valves: Exhaust Nos. 2, 4 and 6; Intake Nos. 3, 5 and 6.

[Fairlane514]

I agree with the valve adjustment being the issue.  If it helps, the exhaust valve is the one that lines up with the "pipes" on the exhaust manifold.

[Samuelpenner]

Thanks guys. Giving this a shot in about 30 min! Ill let you know how it goes

[Samuelpenner]

It worked! Thank you so much! Set the timing again and adjusted the carb and it feels better than it's ever run before!!!